Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'messerschmitt'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar


  • Forum Functionality & Forum Software Help and Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modeling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modeling using 3D Printing
    • 3D Printing Basics
    • 3D Printing Chat
    • 3D Makerspace
  • Modelling
    • Group Builds
    • The Rumourmonger
    • Manufacturer News
    • Other Modelling Genres
    • Britmodeller Yearbooks
    • Tools & Tips
  • General Discussion
    • Chat
    • Shows
    • Photography
    • Members' Wishlists
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
    • Aerocraft Models
    • Above & Beyond Retail
    • Air-craft.net
    • Amarket Modl
    • A.M.U.R. Reaver
    • Atlantic Models
    • Beacon Models
    • BlackMike Models
    • Bring-It!
    • Casemate UK
    • Copper State Models
    • Creative Models Ltd
    • EBMA Hobby & Craft
    • Freightdog Models
    • Hannants
    • fantasy Printshop
    • HMH Publications
    • Hobby Paint'n'Stuff
    • Hypersonic Models
    • Iliad Design
    • L'Arsenal 2.0
    • MikroMir
    • Kingkit
    • Model Designs
    • Modellingtools.co.uk
    • Maketar Paint Masks
    • Marmaduke Press Decals
    • NeOmega & Vector Resin
    • Parkes682Decals
    • Paulus Victor Decals
    • Red Roo Models
    • RES/KIT
    • SBS Model - Hungary
    • Scalectronics - Lighting & Sound Solutions
    • Scale-Model-Kits.com
    • Shelf Oddity
    • Sovereign Hobbies
    • Special Hobby
    • Starling Models
    • Test Valley Models
    • The48ers
    • Tiger Hobbies
    • Tirydium Models
    • Ultimate Modelling Products
    • Valiant Wings Publishing
    • Videoaviation Italy
    • Wonderland Models
  • Archive
    • 2007 Group Builds
    • 2008 Group Builds
    • 2009 Group Builds
    • 2010 Group Builds
    • 2011 Group Builds
    • 2012 Group Builds
    • 2013 Group Builds

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







  1. 1/48 Avia S-199 (post war Bf 109) is planed for next two or three years. source: http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=4005#p1897662 downscale to 1/72 is planed too (like all Eduard projects) but more years in future.
  2. Welcome to my newest project, the Revell/Hasegawa 1:32 Bf 109K-4. I'll be receiving the kit in November (hopefully of this year), and I'll be making a start accordingly. I've searched for photos (why can't I do like when I was younger in just following the painting instructions, I don't know) of the three schemes offered in the kit: Red 7, Adolf Borcher's K-4 and Black 15. I've found photos of those three, but I'm also tempted in painting my aircraft as my previous build, but with a different number. If I wish to go with the latter option, I'll have to buy a new, finer brush than what I have available. Anyways, I'm sure inspiration will hit me once I actually get the kit. For now, some photos I came across of the kit's colour schemes and other random K-4s. Kit schemes: Red 7 (or Blue 7): Black 15: Adolf Borcher's K-4: Random, unmarked 109K-4 photos I found while looking for the kit schemes: 148: The mystery aircraft, no numbers (nor wings), just a fuselage with the Crosses and Swastikas (probably): 199: And finally, the boxart of the kit: I hope this long introduction convince you guys of following the build. If you have more unmarked photos of a Bf 109K-4 (except of the Red Tulip one), make sure to link them! Bye for now.
  3. Me.163B Löök Cockpit Set (644117) 1:48 Eduard This set for the new GasPatch Models kit contains a combination of pre-printed resin and PE parts to quickly and efficiently detail up your cockpit. There are two resin parts that make up the instrument panel in front of the pilot, the second part a dramatic emergency release pull-handle and a PE skid lever below it, with glossy faced dials already painted for you on black resin. Additionally, the PE set of four-point belts for the pilot, complete with brown comfort pads that protect the pilot from the buckles. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Wingsy Kits is working on a new tool 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109E-1/-3/-4/-7 family of kits. My only comment: I'm not the investor, it's the model kit market that will decide the well or not well-founded of this choice. Source: in the comments https://www.facebook.com/Wingsykits/photos/a.961746970607307/2446782888770367/?type=3&theater V.P.
  5. Hallo In near future it will be reality, a dream: https://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_113.html Happy modelling
  6. Here it is guys, my first Bf 109K-4 in 1:48. The kit is from Hasegawa. 332700 was found by the Allies at Wunstorf, Germany, at the end of the war. It sported only two "700s" plus the crosses. I bought this Hasegawa kit second hand (no bags except for the clear parts). Other than that, the kit was complete. Decals took a long time to move from the paper, and I used two Xtradecals crosses to replace two I had to remove.
  7. Story time! I went today to get my second dose of the COVID vaccine, only to be informed I had the appointment booked for the 1st of August. I then went to a cafe, and while looking at my Facebook group, I found that a hobby shop near me was selling second hand Hasegawa 1:48 kits. They also offered a 10% discount if the model was paid in cash. I promptly asked the seller to reserve me the Bf 109K-4. The kit came without the main sprue bags, but all the pieces were there. The clear parts were bagged, and the decals, though a bit yellowed, were in top shape. Once I arrived home with my new model, I checked the marking options. There're two provided, Yellow 4 of Feldwebel Strebel, and Yellow 1 of JG27 (with the green RVD band). I first selected the JG27 scheme because it had an RLM 81/82/76 camouflage, but after looking for photos for it (none showed up), I stumbled upon a Bf 109K-4 numbered 332700. This 109 is mostly anonymous, no special markings nor numbers, only a black "700" hastily painted on both fuselage halves. After practising a bit with a fine brush and some black paint, I decided to go ahead with "700," because it has plenty of RLM 81 areas. Here're the photos: Here's a photo of "332700," no wings though, so there'll be plenty of guessing with this aircraft. Maybe I'll just paint the undersides in RLM 76, because my 84 is too thin and needs several coats.
  8. The last of my three Luft ‘46 completions, and the only reason they all got completed at the same time was because they used the same paint colours and it was easy to just line them up in assembly line fashion, is the Trumpeter Messerschmitt Me 509. This is a very easy build, but it requires a lot of nose weight and there aren’t many places to put it ahead of the cockpit. As a result, the model is quite heavy. Also, Trumpeter don’t provide a positive location method for the retractable radiator if you want to install it in anything but the fully retracted configuration. I glued a piece of square plastic tube across the fuselage resting on the exhaust locators to give me something to glue the radiator to in a partially deployed configuration. I masked and painted the spinner spiral rather than using the included decal.
  9. When we received the new Border 1:35 Bf.109G-6 we got it reviewed PDQ so that people could have a look at this sort-of new scale venture, from a relatively young company, and you can see it here. We're used to 1:35 AFVs, and a few helicopters that have been scaled to go into AFV dioramas, but this is one of the first mainstream kits of traditional winged aircraft, and that's worth a look. Could this be the new de facto larger scale that attracts the AFV modellers so they can have everything in their cabinet in the same scale? I know that's an attractive proposition, as I seriously considered 1:48 armour when I first got interested in the genre thanks to @Dads203. I went with the de facto 1:35 for my AFVs on his advice, and stuck with 1:48 for my aircraft. 1:72 scale modellers have had that for a while now, although there's not a huge range (that I've seen) of new kits coming out in wee scale. Anyway, I'm wittering. It's my first 1:35 aircraft, and my first Border Model kit, so I was interested to see how things went. It's well-detailed, has plenty of parts, a complete engine with optional clear cowlings, some weapons, and a few goofs, which I've already outlined in the review. I'm not one to throw up my hands and scream "unbuildable", as we're all human and therefore fallible, so I just shrug my shoulders and carry on. If a thing bothers me enough, I'll see if it's fixable, or I'll leave it if it's too hard or I'm not feeling particularly adventurous. Here we go! The first item up was the engine, which goes together quite well. I've left it in a few sub-assemblies to make it easier to paint, and be aware that there are a few pins that are slightly larger than their sockets, so keep a pin-vice with a drill bit handy, and test fit everything, which is a good idea whatever you're building, be it shake-the-box or short run. The details on the top of the ancillary "block" can be put on at the wrong angle, so check the instructions carefully before you apply the glue. F23 needs to point slightly upwards, which won't happen if you put them on upside down, and D62/63 need to be set square, as there's no key on the pin. Get that right, and you'll be smiling. The little tanks on the sides of the engine block have tight pins, so adjust those accordingly (they're not in the picture). Also, the centreline gun can be put in at any orientation, but check the humps and bumps then compare them with the instructions before you glue them in. Here's a pic of the majority of the engine, surrounded by supercharger, engine mounts, cowling, pilot and so forth, all ready for priming. You might notice that there are some seams on the exhaust stacks, which I added from stretched sprue, because the perfectly servicable moulding seams that are on them at outset have to be sanded away to remove one of the sprue gates on the elbow. it didn't take long to do the job, and I know it's a bit over-scale, but I quite like the look of them. Be sure to set all the exhausts to the same angle to the engine, or you might have some issues with slotting them into the cowling later on. If you let them sag, it'll bite you in the bottom. I've also knocked up the insides of the cockpit walls after filling the ejector pin marks, only two of which are visible, as I suspect the ones at the front will be shrouded in darkness. There's a bit of filler behind some of those detail parts, so learn from my wasted effort Detail is nice in there too, so I'm looking forward to painting that little lot up. The figure is especially nice, as you could probably tell from the pics in the review, but the pic above came out a bit soft because I've focused on the IP and engine, so focus was drifting off a bit. You can see the IP coaming on the left of the pic, with the basic nose gun bay visible with a few un-filled ejector pins. Frankly, I'm ok with that, as I'm going to leave the Beule closed up and opaque. I'm not yet decided on the clear cowlings, whether to use them or not. I might. I might prop one cowling open or leave one cowling clear. Who knows? Not me. It's nice to have options though I also knocked together the wing inserts that hold the wing guns' ammo chutes, which are drawn back-to-front on the instructions with the slots for the ammo chutes in the front, and as I found the design odd and intriguing, I first nipped off those parts from the sprues while I was writing the review. It took a wee while for me to figure out what was up, but once I did it was a simple enough fix. The artist got it backwards, and also drew the cylinders in slightly the wrong place. No harm done if you read the review or this build thread before you start gluing. If you're interested, I've been giving feedback to Border on the kit via Albion to assist them with future projects, all being well. Go me! You can see how they should go together in the pic below. Since then I've been filling the ejector pin marks on the inside of the flaps and the head armour, and I've also been making up the landing gear. The main gear having movable oleos is cool, but in reality it also leaves a little bit too much "slop" in the strut, allowing the axle to twist round a few degrees each way, so I set them to minimum and flooded it with glue, which also made fitting the scissor-links easier, as there was one less moving part in the equation. Check the width between the receivers on the strut before you start gluing the oleo parts in, as I had to adjust mine with a swipe of a skinny sanding tool - one of those cool stick-on Galaxy Tools ones. We likes The wheels build up really well, and they look great once done, and I'm just waiting for the glue to fully cure before I sand off the bead of plastic I squeezed out, with a similar technique used for the drop-tank. The last sub-assembly made up so far is the prop. I got the metal blades in my goody bag, but I opted to use the styrene ones anyway, as I'm lazy. There's a bit of prep-work on the metal blades, so I left them in favour of the plastic ones. Both plastic and metal blades fit into the two halves of the boss very well, with the pins ensuring they're all at the same angle and the correct way round. I clamped them closed while the glue set, and have another tiny bead of melted plastic to remove tomorrow. I foresee some primer in my near future Don't forget to smash that like button & subcribe, as it really helps me out. No wait, that's not me. Ignore that part.
  10. Here are the final photos of my 109G-6 from Revell in 32nd scale. Pretty good kit, with lots of parts. Now I'm eyeing the Erla Bubi Hartmann version.
  11. While I wait for the decals for my Ju 88C-6b from ICM to arrive (I haven't even cut plastic), I've decided to buy and build this kit. I've been looking up and down for it, and finally got it at a good price. I'll be painting it as Franz Dörr's Bf 109G-6 Late. This aircraft was stationed at Gossen in Norway until the end of WW2 in Europe in May 1945. As it's a common thing with Revell Germany models, the kit doesn't come with Swastikas, so I may have to source them from somewhere else (if I decide to put them when the decalling starts). Speaking of decals, they're printed "in Italy for Revell," so I assume that's Cartograf. I'll begin the kit tomorrow after coming back home from my Covid vaccination trip.
  12. Build #8 - Tamiya Messerschmitt BF109 G-6. Definitely starting to become a Tamiya fanboy! this one is up there with the P51, P38 and Spit! some serious thought and engineering went into this design and it was a joy to put together (as always with Tamiya) the quality and fit are excellent as you'd expect, again no need for filler or excessive force to complete the build. Granted the engine bay isn't as detailed as using aftermarket detailing kits, but its still better than you'd expect from using stock parts, and the unique way the engine bay is constructed sets this kit apart in my opinion! As with my last build i masked off and painted in as much of the livery as possible which i prefer to using the supplied decals. The German insignias were a little tricky but i was more than happy with the result, the spiral on the nose came out better than expected too. the fuselage was my first attempt at airbrushing freehand, i had a few problems with my airbrush and couldn't seem to keep the pressure consistent which resulted in paint splattering - turns out it just needed a bloody good clean! I used Vallejo Mecha primer on this one which really helped with the yellow pigment which really doesn't like to be applied straight to plastic - I'm pleased with the final result, let me know what you think!
  13. Hello everyone. I've been lurking here for a long time and, like many it seems, returning to aircraft modelling after a very long break ( about 30 years in my case). My plan was to kick things off with a confidence builder-build. Nothing too complicated, cheap and straight out of the box but sadly my first choice of kit had other plans as you can see ... Attempt 1: Revell 1:72 Bf109 G10 I know the marque pretty well so this seemed like a good bet. Progress was slow though, at least partly because of short-shot moulding around the exhaust areas. These had to be rebuilt and once I'd started down that road ... I attempted to add a seam to the exhaust stacks, drilled them out, added a weld to the intake, tidied up innacurate rivet detail. Already slipping down the rabbit hole ... and my efforts were a bit heavy-handed. So, cockpit. Nice and simple. Aftermarket additions would cost more than the kit so I added some masking tape seatbelts and, figuring the cockpit view would be limited by the thick transparencies provided, just painted most of the details in there. Bit odd but perfection is the enemy of done, right? My hope was that a high-contrast approach would at least be somewhat visible. Then disaster struck. Already this has become far more involved than planned for my 'first' and when the fusilage halves were married it turns out there's a distinct lack of symmetry between the canopy and nose. Picture doesn't do it justice but that will need resculpting to look anywhere close to true. I've not removed material here yet - but there is a prominent 'slump' to port when viewed from the front. For now this is headed back to the box to have a word with itself. Frankly I'm not ready to reshape the distinctive later 109 cowl. I admit I was starting to get quite dispirited and wondering if I'm cut out for this business. Very happily though Airfix came to the rescue when I decided to have another shot, this time at their Me262. Again, I know it pretty well so fingers crossed ... Attempt 2: So far it's fallen together like a dream. Within a day I have all of the main components together and it looks like an Me262. Cleanup has been really minimal with the only slight wrinkle being where the engine nacelles meet the wing leading edges - predictable and so far looking pretty easy to fix. The experience of building this kit could hardly be more different to the 109 and I'm hooked. Only addition so far is a masing tape and scrap plastic harness. So, long story short, this is what I'll try to document here, if only to keep me focused, and so far very happy with the kit. Any pointers or advice very gratefully received. Will add some details to the rear shelf here after cleanup. Perhaps a suggestion of panel wiring but I suspect invisible with the canopy on. Slightly worried about rescribing the two ports in front of the cockpit but might have a plan. First layer added here - will build these up a bit more and then shape. Wing roots are impressively tight and won't need filler. Nacelles need an extra polish to smooth out any remainign join lines but feel smoother than they look here.
  14. This is the Revell model of the P1099B, an aircraft that never left the drawing board in terms of design. It's a rather ugly aircraft but that's kinda what I liked about it when I bought the kit. According to the instructions this aircraft was from KG 76, a bomber squadron, so I found a much larger pistol packing devil for the side of the aircraft, I think it came from a KG 76 Junkers 88 kit. Since it was a fighter bomber, I also added a bomb and rack under the fuselage from an Me 262. Colour scheme is RLM 82 light green with RLM 83 dark green patches over RLM 76 blue. The squiggles are RLM 76 which I applied with a brush to get the nice hard edge. This was based off an Me 262 camouflage schemes that I liked. Overall the kit is good fitting, although there was some filling and sanding required on the engine nacelles and the nose wheel insert. Some weight was also required to prevent tail sitting.
  15. Hello guys, here's a kit I built in 2020, but was finished "properly" yesterday. It's Revell's Bf 109G-10 with markings for Green 2, based at Stendal in 1945. The only thing I did to finish the kit was to add some mottling to the fuselage sides.
  16. Bf.109G-2 ProfiPACK (82165) 1:48 Eduard The G variant of the Bf.109, colloquially known as the Gustav was one of the primary fighters available to the Luftwaffe during the closing years of WWII, alongside its supposed replacement the Fw.190, and saw extensive active service right to the end of hostilities, all the while being upgraded to combat the increasing Allied superiority in the air. Happily for the Allies, the supply of experienced pilots was fast running out, so as good as the upgrades were, they couldn't make an appreciable difference to the outcome. The G-2 differed from the initial G-1 insofar as it didn’t have the pressurised cockpit of the earlier variant, and it was sometimes fitted with different head armour for the pilot – lucky fella! The various G sub-types were a problem from a maintenance point of view, having far too many variations to be practical, so the K series, Kurt to its few friends was created, but at that late stage it wasn’t particularly well liked or very successful. Some actually considered it to be a retrograde step. The Kit The G-2 is just one of Eduard's series of Gustavs, which is now enjoying a reissue with just a minor change in parts and decal options, plus some fetching new artwork that shows the replacement decal option having just shot down an RAF P-40 in the desert, the poor pilot scrambling free from the cockpit as the wreckage burns. The ProfiPACK boxing contains a wide selection of decal options and Photo-Etch (PE) parts in Eduard’s pre-painted style with the recently implemented glossy dial faces. Given the aforementioned differences between the sub-variants, there aren’t a huge number of differences in parts between the airframes. The cockpit is adorned with most of the coloured PE to upgrade the detail, and a clear fuel line so that the clear vision section can be left unpainted to allow the pilot to see the fuel sloshing about within. The PE harnesses and rudder pedals, plus all the other detail parts on the cockpit walls make for a seriously well-detailed cockpit. With the addition of the tail-wheel in the rear, and a choice of shrouded or unshrouded exhausts in the nose, you can close up the fuselage with the cockpit trapped between the halves. The nose also receives a circular bulkhead that receives the prop later in the build. The exhausts without the moulded-in shrouds are your best choice for detail, as they have hollow tips, and you can add PE shrouds while you are installing the small PE hinges and the intake filter that is specific to the tropicalized variant, which has a pair of PE meshes that require bending to fit the cylindrical housing. It also has a pair of small stays added from the PE sheet to stabilise it in the airflow, which shows nice attention to detail. The flying surfaces are all mobile and capable of being depicted deflected, while the wingtip lights have been moulded into the wing halves, so a small mask has been included to help you cut a neat demarcation between the wing skin and the light, unless you are going to remove the styrene and replace it with clear plastic from your own stock. The gear bay walls are made up in the full-width lower wing, and two holes should be drilled for four of the decal options, plus two ammo chute inserts that drop through from inside the lower wing. With the addition of the upper wings you can join them to the fuselage, then add the leading-edge slats in the dropped position for stationary, or retracted whilst in the air once the pressure is sufficient to push them in. The radiators have PE mesh skins, as does the chin-mounted oil-cooler, the flaps consist of upper and lower elements just like the real aircraft, and there is a choice of tyres for your decal options. One option requires the removal of the majority of the captive main gear bay door, which is an unusual sight, possibly to prevent snow from building up between them and the wheels. Another choice is offered for the clear windscreen part, with a common square profile canopy and fixed rear portion with the earlier larger aerial mast, which has the usual post and PE attachment for your choice of rigging material at the tail-end. There is a canopy stay wire included with the PE, which is a great addition that adds realism, and is common throughout the G-series Profipaks IIRC. With the prop added, it's just a case of choosing whether or not to add the additional armament in the shape of underslung cannons in gondola cowlings outboard of the landing gear bays, which is what the reamed out holes were for. These are also available as a resin Brassin set if you are going for hyper-detail and perhaps want to leave open the access hatches to show off the cannon breeches and ammo magazines. Supplied on yellow kabuki tape, a sheet of pre-cut masks provide you with a full set of masks for the inside AND outside of the canopy, with half a page of instructions devoted to their installation. In addition, you get a set of hub masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Markings As is often the case with Profipak boxings, there are five decal options included on the larger decal sheet, and a set of stencils on the other sheet, which will allow you to build one of the following: Bf.109G-2/Trop Wnr. 10533, Uffz. Horst Schlick, 1./JG, Bir-el-Abd, Egypt, Nov 1942 Bf.109G-2/R-6/Trop, W.Nr.13916, Fw. Hans Döbrich, 6./JG 5, Alakurtti, Finland Feb 1943. Bf.109G-2/R6, Lt. Walter Krupinski, 6./JG 52, Maykop, Soviet union, October 1942. Bf.109G-2/R6 W.Nr. 13949, Mjr. Hans Hahn, II./JG 54, Rjelbitzy, Soviet Union, Jan 1943. Bf.109G-2/R6, W.nr.13633, Hptm. Wolf-Dieter Huy, 7./JG 77, Tanyet Harun, Egypt, Oct 1942. The stencils are shown on a separate placement guide on the back page of the booklet, and both sheets are printed in-house, with good colour density, register and sharpness. In use these decals settle down well with a little solution, and the carrier film is closely cropped and slightly glossy. As always, there are some removable Swastikas at the corner of the main sheet, and some two-part decals that can be made into Swastikas by the modeller in territories where that's a touchy subject. Conclusion A very nice rendition of the G-2 and a welcome reboxing, with suitably disparate schemes that should appeal to many out of the box. The surface detail on these kits is by now legendary, and the addition of the PE just improves on the basic kit, which is already excellent. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Lemkits is working on a 1/32nd Messerschmitt Me P.1100/1 "Schnell Bomber" kit Source: https://www.facebook.com/andriy.lemkitscom/posts/2766797493579966 V.P.
  18. Bf.109G German Pilot, Seated (F48368 for Eduard) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby A pilot figure in an aircraft model seems to have become superfluous to requirements for a lot of modern manufacturers, which forces us to peruse the aftermarket arena for a suitable candidate when the need arises. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Decals and Photo-Etch (PE) when included is separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. This resin set provides a single pilot that has been patterned to precisely fit the recent Eduard Bf.109Gs in 1:48, and comes in four parts on two casting blocks. The pilot’s torso, arms and upper legs are moulded into one part, while the lower legs and head are separate, the former having small pegs in the tops of the boots that key into depressions in the knees of the figure. The head slots into a socket, and could easily be adjusted to look to the side with some trimming of the resin peg. The instruction sheet shows the figure assembled in the cockpit, illustrating the fact that his seat is also moulded into the figure, making the fit a lot easier, especially as the shoulder-straps are also moulded-in. next to that photo is a list of paint colours for the various parts of the figure in English and Czech. Conclusion Sculpting and casting is excellent, with loads of detail just waiting to be picked out with your best paintbrush. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Dragon Models is working on a new tool 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109E kit - ref. DR5550 Sources: http://platz-media.com/blog/2019/09/22/2019-ahs-dragon/ http://www.platz-hobby.com/products/9386.html V.P.
  20. Hello everybody, I want to show you my Me 262 C-1a. The Me 262 is one of the most beautiful aircraft designs for me. Construction: The Academy kit, released in 2007, contains a multitude of details and very interesting options, including alternative components for the Me 262 C-1a with a Walther rocket in the rear fuselage. Unfortunately, in my opinion, the nose shape failed completely, so an extensive cosmetic surgery has to be done. I also narrowed the fuselage at the top by approx. 1 mm, which means that the too wide canopy has to be exchanged for a deep-drawn one. An old canopy from a Hasegawa Me 262 served as a deep-drawing stamp. The rear fuselage is also suboptimal. Academy simply suppressed the opening for the Walther rocket and did not bulge the fuselage in this area enough. So this will be changed too. And because it is already work, I add a few details around the plane, for example extended flaps and slats. Original aircraft: My model shows the C-1a V186, as far as I know the only raketen schwalbe (rocket swallow) that has flown. In horizontal flight 934 km/h were achieved with additional thrust, making the V186 the fastest Me 262 ever flown (comparison A-1a: 870 km/h). With Heinz Bär in the cockpit, the aircraft shot down a P-47 that was flying over 8,000 m over Lechfeld airfield after about 3 minutes after start from runway. Source: asisbiz.com Painting: The paintjob was started as standard for me on an Alclad Airframe aluminum primer. After that preshading, three glazing layers per colour, painting scratches with a silver pin, intermediate finish with future, decals, washing, dust, oil paints, chalks etc. Walk around: Bottom view: Details: I hope you like my model. Criticism, notes, and comments are gladly welcome. Kai
  21. This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  22. Brengun is to release a 1/144th Messerschmitt Me-309 V-1/V-2 kit - ref. BRP144015 Source: https://www.facebook.com/HaulerBrengun/posts/1705025429656098 Box art V.P.
  23. A&A Models is to release in late October 2020 a 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109T1/T2 kit - ref. 4806 Source: https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2171578336320123&id=1048501705294464 Kit comes with decals for 5 liveries (2 x Bf109T2/ 3 x Bf.109T1), PE sheet, adhesive masks and 2 canopies (open/closed). Box art V.P.
  24. Me.262A-1a & P-51B Combat Set (03711) 1:72 Revell Believe it or not (most of you will), the technologically advanced Messerschmitt Me.262 and the P-51 Mustang did actually square off against each other in the skies over Germany. Not many P-51Bs would have still been in service, but even though there was a huge difference in top speed, the doughty Mustang shot down a number of these shark-like fighters, especially at the weaker points of their flight envelope during take-off and landing, where the low spool-up of the jet engines made them an easier target. This kit from Revell is in their Combat Set range, and puts together these old foes in the one box, both of them being a product of the late 90s. The 262 came out in 1997, while the Mustang was released a year later, although having been moulded in silver styrene this time around, it looks older on initial inspection. Let’s handle them separate in case there’s a (dog) fight. Me.262A-1a The shark-like profile of the Messerschmitt Me.262 Schwalbe and its almost matchless abilities at the time have given it a high profile despite its lack of practical effect on the outcome of WWII. If Der Fuhrer had been a little less prone to meddling however, the effect of its presence may have been felt more by the bomber streams than it was – thankfully! That's if they could have solved the metallurgy of the engines to obtain sufficient time before they burned themselves to destruction – 100 hours for most engines if the aircraft it hung off lasted that long. That's a lot of ifs, but if we concentrate on the actual performance of it, it's still an impressive aircraft that was superior to the British Meteor in most respects, using axial flow jet engines and swept outer wing panels together with a slippery aerodynamic shape. It first flew with a prop in the nose and dummy engines, dragging its tail along the ground until airborne, but this was changed once the engines were live, as the heat and thrust from both engines would have played havoc with their landing strips. The delays were caused partly by Hitler's insistence that the airframe should be able to carry bombs, which it eventually could under its nose, but as usual their efforts were spread too thin by trying to make the Schwalbe a jack of all trades, all of which took valuable engineers and strategic materials away from the fighters that were desperately needed in the Defence of the Reich. The huge speed differential between the Schwalbe and its bomber stream targets meant that zoom attacks were necessary, giving precious little time for the pilot to take aim due to the high rate of closure and subsequent overshoot. The aircraft were also vulnerable during take-off and landing due to the slow spooling-up of early jet engines, which the Allies took full advantage of to reduce the fleet further, with intensive maintenance whittling away at the available airframes even further. It was a case of too little too late in terms of numbers, and even with their speed advantage a few were shot down in flight by piston-engined Allied aircraft due in part to the extensive experience that the Allied crews had gained during the invasion and the comparative lack of experienced German pilots by that stage of the war. As the Allies rolled through Germany, they captured airbases and research establishments with many variants that didn't see combat found and hoovered up by US Operation Paperclip and similar operations by the other Allied governments. The kit is on four sprues of pale greenish grey styrene, with a clear sprue in a separate bag, and shared instructions and decals. Construction of the 262 begins with the two fuselage halves, which should have a few holes drilled out and another on the spine that straddles both parts. The cockpit tub is next, and this one really is a tub. The front bulkhead is partly moulded-in but has another laminated to it, while the aft one is glued in place along with seat, instrument panel and control column. The detail is pretty good for the scale, and there is also some wheel bay detail on the opposite face to the tub, as well as the inside of the fuselage halves. The tub also has a couple of ejector pin marks that will need filling if you are cutting out the bays (see later) and think the centreline bay divider won’t hide them. The fuselage can then be closed up with some nose-weight added because this is a potential tail-sitter thanks to the nose wheel. The nose has a big empty slot underneath, which is filled by an insert with the nose-gear bay slotted inside, which has some internal ribbing within. The rear of the cockpit cut-out is covered with a ‘hump’, which makes it ready for its wings. The lower wing is a full-width, and inexplicably has a pair of main gear bay roof panels moulded-in, despite it already having the correct hollow bay details already there. If it makes your mind boggle as much as mine, just cut out the inner section and make good. Sounds easy if you say it fast, doesn’t it? The lower is glued to the fuselage and joined by the two upper wing panels, then the two engines and their nacelles are made up from two side cowlings, nose cone, and rear bullet that is attached to the inside on the two horizontal stator vanes, but take care to ensure the bullet is in the centre of the exhaust before you leave the glue to dry. When you’ve dealt with the seams they should insert neatly into the underside of the wing, filling out the notches in the leading-edge with their fairings. The elevators slot into the tail in the usual tab & slot manner, then it’s on to the landing gear. You can quickly pose the gear retracted by fitting the single nose gear bay door and the two main bay doors after removing the pegs for the landed option. The bay doors are all separated for the gear-down option, then the nose wheel with separate tyre goes into the bay with the two door parts, while each main wheel strut has a separate retraction jack, two captive bay doors and separate wheel, which is rather well appointed with detail. The trapezoid inner doors are both positioned on the centreline between the bays, and if you’ve cut that bit off to see the correctly shaped interior, you need to get the styrene rod and glue out! A pitot probe is fitted to the port wingtip, with two antennae under the wing and fuselage, then a finely-moulded D/F loop behind the cockpit, and a single part canopy part is glued over the aperture, although you’re going to have to work to find some of the canopy framing lines. Again, it’s not the kit’s finest part, and it’s somewhat of a let-down compared to the rest of the kit. The aftermarket seems bereft of replacements, although I’ve been wrong before. To use those bomb-mounts that slowed the 262’s gestation too much, a pair of two-part auxiliary fuel tanks are provided that sit on short pylons under the nose. Silly Adolf. North American P-51B Mustang Originally developed to fulfil a British requirement for a new fighter aircraft, the unmistakeable North American P-51 Mustang famously went from drawing board to first flight in just 178 days. It went on to become one of the most famous and successful aircraft of the Second World War. The original Allinson engine was hopeless above 12,000ft, and was transformed by being replaced by Rolls Royce’s legendary Merlin engine. With its Achilles heel sent packing, the Mustang went from strength to strength and was eventually developed into several successively better variants. The P-51D introduced a number of improvements in response to combat experience, including a cut-down rear fuselage and bubble canopy, plus an increase in the number of 0.5 inch machine guns from four to six. Over 8,000 P-51Ds were produced, more than any other Mustang variant. As already mentioned, this is a re-release of one of Revell’s earlier kits from the late 90s. there are three sprues of silver-coloured plastic, a one-piece canopy on its own sprue (wrapped separately for protection), with the instruction and decal sheet shared between the kits. As may be expected of an older kit, the quality of mouldings is not quite up there with Revell’s latest releases. There is an amount of flash present and some fairly prominent ejector-pin marks on the upper wing and some more inside, so some cleaning up will be required, which is best done before commencing the build. Surface detail is comprised of fine engraved lines and rivets plus some raised details where appropriate, so care will have to be taken when sanding seams to avoid destroying this detail. The cockpit is made up on a floor panel, with heavy moulded-in wood effect, the rear radio gear on a pedestal and a front bulkhead, which is improved with the addition of an instrument panel with moulded-in rudder pedals, control column and seat with moulded-in belts. The sidewalls of the fuselage also have some basic internal detail moulded in, and after painting the fuselage can be closed up and left to cure, followed by some seam filling. The lower wing has a couple of holes reamed out for the drop-tanks, then it is attached to the underside of the fuselage and joined by the upper wings, with the two elevators slotted into the tail, at right-angles to the tail fin. The exhaust stacks slot into the sides of the nose, then with the airframe flipped on its back, the chin scoop lip, belly intake lip, and two cooling flaps at the rear are installed, capable of being posed open or closed if you wish. You have the option to model this Mustang with wheels up or down. With wheels up, there are just three parts and you’re done. For the wheels down option, there’s a single tail-wheel part and you chop the tail bay door piece in half then pose them splayed open. The main bay doors are cut into two sections, with the tapered part attached to the main strut along with the wheel, and the rest of the door attached to the centre divider between the bay halves under the fuselage. The prop has four separate blades on a rear boss, which are then hidden away after adding a retaining ring by the spinner cap. A clear leading-edge landing light is fitted into the cut-out in the port wing, then the other clear part, the one-piece canopy is glued into the cockpit. This part is not the best, and is a funny shape (IMHO) as well as being far from clear. It’s a shame, really as beneath the old-skool silver moulding, it’s not a bad kit, so I’d be looking for a replacement part for the Malcolm hood, and a quick search on Hannants shows one for another brand, but whether it’ll fit, I don’t know. The last parts are the two optional compressed paper fuel tanks that each mount on a short pylon with anti-sway braces on each side, fore and aft. Markings Each kit has just the one decal option as per the boxtop, and those are on the same sheet, although you’ll need some Swastikas for the tail of the 262 if you’re going to depict them. From the box you can build one of each of the following: Messerschmitt 262A-1a W.Nr. 110836* P-51B Mustang Captain Willard Millikan, 336th Fighter Squ., 4th Fighter Group, May 1945 * A misprint has slipped past the proof-reader on the instructions, with the heading over the 262 reading “Messerschmitt Bf.109G-10, Normandie, D-Day”. Even with my limited knowledge of aviation, I can tell you that’s a mistake. There’s no prop, for a start. We all make mistakes though, so let’s not go on about it. To err is human… If you don’t make mistakes, you’re either lying to yourself and everyone else, or a deity. Anyway, moving on, decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is a re-release of two nice little kits that have disappointing canopies. The Mustang has the most work to prep the parts, and the 262 has that weird and extraneous main gear bay. They’re by no means perfect kits, but as they say forewarned is forearmed. Recommended, just read the whole review. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  25. The model represents an airplane operated by one of my favorite Condor Legion fighters, Gothard Handrick in 1938. The model is well known to most, without any serious problems. Here's the picture.
  • Create New...