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  1. First Order TIE fighter Bandai 1/72 scale All-in-all, I think it turned out okay. When painting this I remembered how difficult black is to pull off on a model and how annoying it can be to photograph properly. Speaking of which, I think I'm going to invest in some new photo backdrops because this felt-like one I have now pisses me off!
  2. Evening all, It's taken longer than I had hoped, but I've finally completed my X-Wing to go the TIE Fighter I finished last month. It's another Bandai kit, and goes together beautifully, although it a bit more of an involved build compared to the TIE. I found it easiest to leave the main components disassembled for painting and weathering, not that this is a problem given the incredible fit. All markings were masked and painted in place of the supplied decals so that I could chip the paint more effectively- although I might have gone a touch overboard in that respect- in fact, the only decals used are on R2-D2 and Luke's helmet. All colours were Xtracolor, and were matched as close as I could with the shades I have available to the colours of the decals. In all, I've used fifteen or more colours on all the various panels, so plenty of masking for minimal airbrushing, hence the protracted build time. Up close, the finish is a little rougher than I'd have liked but doesn't look too bad from a few feet. As before, the base is a piece of Aluminium/Acrylic composite routed to shape before the rebel logo was laser engraved into it. All in all, another brilliantly fun build Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Of course, I had to take a shot or two with it's adversary... Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed as ever, Cheers, Shaun
  3. Hi all, I couldn't paint the Guntank the other evening as it was too hot in the office, so I thought I'd get on with some cutting and sticking instead: It is surprising how many sprues are in the box - with a lot of doubles in different colours. This is all to allow the ships to be built in various approximations to the colour schemes of the anime. What's really surprising is how the big pile of plastic boils down into four tiny ships. The cruiser above (which doesn't have all the details yet) is about 150mm long, and the destroyer is only 80mm: It all fits moderately well, but the snap-together construction makes for wide seams in places. I think these will mostly look OK under paint, but the edges of the strakes are naff and will need to be filled to unite all the little bits. I might fill the waist seams as well. You also get two of these minute little buggers: which are going to need a steady hand to clean up and paint. Cheers, Will
  4. Well I finally bothered to take some pictures of my F-71 G-Cannon, as I promised over a month ago, so I can now post my RFI. The build thread can be found HERE, and I'd like to thank AndyRM101, Will Vale, Hunter Rose and Dazzio for all their assistance and valued contributions through a build that nearly went belly-up more than once. And lastly, just to compare to Will's excellent RX-77-2 Guncannon. As you can see, despite being different scales, they're not very far off in size. As the G-Cannon is only around 15m in height compared to the Guncannon's 18m height.
  5. BB-8 Resistance pilot Poe Dameron's loyal astromech droid Bandai 1/12 My first model kit of 2016 is done! It was a nice way to jump-start the modeling juices after I spend most of December horribly burnt out. The only weathering I did was to give him a gunk wash of 502 Abteilung Starship Filth; this was done on top a satin coat of Future. I opted to keep that finish because it is accurate to the filming puppet. I might add some pigments here and there, but I'm going to leave the weathering as is for now.
  6. new Bandai STAR WARS kits coming soon Already released: some new kits: AT-AT still not confirmed. Maybe display only model: 1/72 Y-Wing coming soon: 1/72 Stormtroopers ??? Need this army! Scout Trooper and Speeder 1/12: new 1/12 Sandtrooper: But still no 1/72 A-Wing, B-Wing, Snowspeeder nor TIE Bomber
  7. Hi everyone Well, I'm finally calling this one done. Everything works as it should and I am happy with how it came out. I have taken a fair few pictures, so I won't put all of them on here, but I'll post a link to the entire album at the end Thank you to all you who tuned in during the WIP and a massive thanks to Warren (AKA Madmonk) for the lighting kit and also to Jim (AKA Misrule) for all of his help with the tech images etc Slideshow As always, thanks for looking MH
  8. Finished off my 1/12 Bandai Boba Fett. Didn't like the moulded colours so I've painted him with Vallejo paints. Dave
  9. Afternoon all, As a massive Star Wars fan, and having been firmly caught up in all the hype of The Force Awakens, I just had to get involved in building some of the fantastic Bandai kits. My first venture into this area has been the 1/72 TIE Fighter. A joy to build from start to finish, and completed in a little over a week- must be my quickest build since I was a child! I've finished it as a TIE from a New Hope in the lighter grey, for which I used Xtracolor ADC Grey. Maybe not a 100% match, but it looks close enough to my eye. Details were picked out in various other greys before a dark grey pastel wash wash applied to pop out all that lovely detail. I wasn't too keen on the section od Death Star Bandai provide as a base, so made my own at work using Di-Bond, acrylic sandwiched between two veneers of painted aluminium, into which I laser engraved the Imperial logo. A short length of 3mm acrylic rod provides the mount, a bit floppy, but it does the job. All in all, this has been just about the most fun I've had building a kit in a long time Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed Shaun
  10. I recently picked up the new R2-D2/BB-8 combo kit. The Artoo is just a repackaging of the released in the spring of last year, which is nice to have multiples of, but obviously the main draw is BB-8! As people who have seen The Force Awakens know, BB-8 is the new ridiculously adorable droid that pals around with Poe Dameron (and later Rey) and like Artoo before him, is key to the plot of the movie. I went back and forth on whether or not I wanted to paint this kit. I was leaning towards "not" because I wanted this build to be the thing to break the modeling funk that I've been in the entire month of December. After thinking about for the better part of a day, I decided that I would paint the entire kit. Color matching his orange will probably be tricky as I don't have the widest selection of orange paints on hand and I don't really feel like ordering the paints to match. Other than that, it will be an easy build because everything else is either white or silver. So in order to prep for painting, I removed all of the parts from the sprue tree and made a BB-8 forest on my hard Styrofoam blocks with the pieces organized by the part of the body that they belong too. Everything will get a coat of Alclad II grey primer before I move on to the painting. Like Artoo, BB-8 comes with all of the gadgets you see in the film: the 'disk drive,' the arc welder, and the blowtorch. I haven't decided if I will use any of these extras, but I'm leaning towards painting the blowtorch just because that scene in the which he uses it is pretty amusing!
  11. Hi I recently got the bandai Slave 1 kit for Christmas and I'm im not sure what colours to paint it.. I've seen some really good techniques for painting the weathering but I don't know what colours to actually use. Can anyone help?
  12. Had this for about a month now and have left it until I finished the Stormtrooper, I posted recently. This is not going to be anywhere as good as Andy RM101's posting from last month which was absolutely stunning so won't elaborate to much on the kit and preparation as Andy's has it all and more some. I will be using a number of techniques new to me and to be honest I know this time I have gone over the top on weathering once again, this something I still haven't learned when to stop. Anyway, started the build and didn't want the bodywork in 'Endor brown' so decided on imperial grey, I wanted to try some chipping so primed cowling and sprayed with Humbrol silver and satin varnish. Once dried and Youtubeing for a couple of hour I decided on using the masking fluid method to create the chipping effect. The chipping went way to far and after weathering the grey is beginning to resemble more of an olive, that being said I thoroughly enjoyed doing it this way and will use it again. As far as I'm concerned if an Evil Imperial Empire cant even supply blasters that shot straight, what makes you think they can supply a decent primer! Regards John
  13. INCOM CORPORATION T-65 X-WING SPACE SUPERIORITY FIGHTER Jek Porkins (Red 6) Incom Corporation T-65 X-wing space superiority fighter (Red 6); Bandai 1/72 scale finished in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, 502 Abteilung oils, and Secret Weapon Miniatures and Tamiya pigments. A work in progress thread can found here.
  14. Hi folks, I finished a proper (not a 28mm figure) model - I think the first since we moved! It's a Bandai Gundam kit from the low-end HG (High Grade) line - cheap and cheerful compared to newer models or Master Grade kits, but with good fit and very crisp mouldings. The only real complains about construction were that the feet and body were both split in two by vertical seams. The feet were OK to clean up, but the body was a pain as the seam went through the fins on the top surface - they would have been better as add-on parts I think. I filled and cleaned it all up, but it's a bit rounded-off from what it was originally. The tricky thing which is peculiar to Gundams is the need to paint the interior joint parts and then build and paint the armour around them - at least if you want contrasting colours (and I did.) Masking off the round bosses on the feet was fiddly too! The joints allow a bit of poseability although not as much as the modern kit my daughter put together. Mine can still manage a bit of sassy hip tilt: He's weathered with the usual AK enamels, and the decals are stolen off unrelated Gundam sheets - mostly from a 1/100 Guntank and a set of Wave caution decals - the kit didn't come with any to speak of. I tried to keep the weathering and decals on the subtle/small side to give a sense of scale, and restrict the dust mainly to the feet. I'm not 100% sure how well this worked - some of the chipping might be a bit on the big side, but he looks cool from ground level: He's not actually all that big though! Thanks to everyone who chipped in on the build thread, it was a really fun little project and I have asked for more Bandai things for Christmas Cheers, Will
  15. I had some free time and an X-wing in pieces so I decided to do a quick build of the most endearing Rebel pilot from Star Wars: Jek Porkins! This is supposed to be a for-fun project, but when the client that I did Luke's X-wing for caught wind of it, he told me he was interested in buying it. He has the Porkins statue from SDCC 2014 and wants to display the ship next to it. However, I haven't decided if I'm willing to part with it... His color scheme has always been among my favorites and I think it's because it has similar colors to my favorite American football team, the Washington Redskins. Since this model was already disassembled, I went ahead and primed everything with some Tamiya Surface Primer from a rattle can. I preshaded everything with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) and then gave the model a base coat using the same color I mixed for Luke's X-wing. His paneling isn't as varied as Luke's, but it is still rather interesting and the dark red color is unique to his ship. The yellow is Vallejo Model Air Ochre (71.033) and the dark red is a 4:1 mix of Vallejo Model Air Hull Red (71.039) and Fire Red (71.084). I used AK Interactive Heavy Chipping Fluid for the scuff marks on those colors. The lighter red is a 10:1 mix of Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9). I used some masking fluid applied with a piece of torn foam for the chipping effects. With the filter on this model, I used white spirits instead of turpenoid like last time. I let a piece of sprue soak in some white spirits all day and there seemed to be no ill effects so I went ahead and gave it a try. There are two coats of a filter made with 502 Abteilung German Ochre; the effect is obvious on the S-foil with the grey paneling, which was painted with Tamiya Royal Light Grey (XF-80). I added the grey panel just to give the model a little more variation. After this dries for a day or so, I'll give everything a couple of coats of Future in preparation for more weathering!
  16. Hello all, Tis' I. Just thought I'd share what I'm working on at the minute. In a desperate attempt to get over the modeller's malaise that struck me hard within months of coming back in to the folds of those fanciers of plastic crack (leading to three incompletes on various Group Builds) I decided to dig this old lad out of the attic. It's a 1/100 scale F71 G-Cannon from the Mobile Suit Gundam F91 film. Originally released in 94 (I think) I picked him up off of ebay in 2001-2 when I was 14 of 15, badly stuck him together and then left him languishing in a box in my mum's attic for over a decade. Being that I've always liked the design and being, in my mind at least, partially complete I thought finishing him off might be a good way of getting myself energized again. And in it's own way it's working, though it wan't as easy as job as I'd first anticipated. Mostly because of the bloody awful job younger me had done to the poor lad. My overzealous self had carved some rather severe trenches in the plastic in an attempt to clear seamlines (very prevalent on these early Bandai kits, and always in awkward places) and absolutely destroyed his hands. Anyway, my best efforts with Mr. Surfacer, lots of sand paper and some primer resulted in this: Which really needed a rub down with some micromesh (which I'm not sure how to use, do you cut strips off it or just use it like a polishing cloth?) and a few touch-ups; but being the lazy and also impatient goit that I am I thought I'd just attack it with the airbrush (if I could remember how to use it and as of tonight this is how it looks: This is after two coats of future (which never takes on a glossy, glassy sheen for me like it does when you proper modellers do it) and needing one more before the decals go on (the early No Grade 1/100 kits actually came with both stickers and decals which is nice). Then it will be some more future and a panel wash. Now, here's where I need you professhunals help...how should I go about doing that last part? I've seen some great work on these pages but my last attempts at panel washes turned out a bit pap if we're being polite (check the sig) and so I'd like some advice. What are the pre-prepared washes like, and how should one use them? Also, filters: Yes/no? Help me Britmodeller.comWork-in-ProgressSci-FiandRealSpace-Kenobi you're my only hope! TTFN and that. Paul Kisses.
  17. Hi folks, A friend was selling off a couple of surplus HG Gundams at our club competition last week and I picked them up at the last minute for a song. The HG kits are Bandai's cheap line and are usually 1/144 and relatively simple. I started building one before once (as a wreck) but while I have a few Gundam models in the stash I've never finished one. Anyway, one thing led to another and I thought I'd bung this thing together as a palette cleanser after all the Rocky Horror sewing, to get me back into the mood for working on the plane I'm supposed to be doing for the Vietnam GB. My daughter obviously stole the "cool" one - the "Amazing Red Warrior" released last year or thereabouts - as soon as she discovered it had many guns and swords and such. And she built it with gusto while I was messing around with sandpaper and glue. She likes making things but not the sanding/filing aspect so the Bandai kits are great for her. I was left with the Guncannon, which is from 1999 I think and is a bit more cartooney. I read the background and apparently the RX-77 Guncannon was one of three Mobile Suits developed at the start of the war against Zeon - these being the Guntank, Guncannon and Gundam# As you can probably guess, the first two were a bit crap and the Gundam saved the day. It's also simpler - with for example two pieces and a polycap for each foot, where as Laura's had maybe six? It still fits really well but there are more seams to deal with and more masking too. So far I've put it all together, primed everything, painted the insides with Alclad and then did a lot of masking with tape and blu-tak to paint the outsides with Tamiya acrylics, thinned with lacquer thinner. You can see I had the paint a bit thin when I pre-shaded and there are tide marks, but I think once I add some chips and streaks they won't be too bad. It was interesting figuring out how to build it so I could fix the seams e.g. through the kneecaps and elbows, while still inserting the joint pieces between them and painting those a contrasting colour. I think with the newer and fancier kits this is maybe less of an issue (especially Master and Real Grade kits) since the armour pieces are added to the frame after, and break down along panel lines. I did the most masking on the feet - these were two pieces each split vertically, so I had to get creative with the blu-tak to pick out the round bits. Aizu micron tape was very useful for following the panel line around the bottom of the foot too. The black booties are a nod to Patlabor, which is my favourite lrealistic mecha series. Well, maybe joint fave with Evangelion I kind of forgot how careful you have to be with the Tamiya gloss acrylics and was rushing a bit, so I had to re-do the orange on one of the legs. The other is still a bit ragged but I'll live with it. The matt colours are rather easier to use. I'm also wondering about masking off the front of the shoulder cannons (in the notch) and spraying the backs the same grey as the rifle, but I'm not sure yet. I am currently varnishing parts and doing detail painting ready for some decals salvaged from my collection - the kit only has a sticker for the visor. Cheers, Will
  18. I just finished up my build of Bandai's 1/72 X-wing, painted as Luke Skywalker's Red 5. This model was commission by a friend of mine as part of a trench run diorama with Vader and his two wingmen. This was my second go at Luke's X-wing after I did a Fine Molds version for my personal collection last summer. The Fine Molds version of this kit really doesn't compare to the Bandai one; Bandai's is superior in just about every way. The only real downside is how Bandai's plastic reacts to thinner, which is something I'll take into consideration on my next Bandai build. In my short time building models (three years), this has by far been the most fun I've had working on a model. It's just a shame that it won't be living in my display case! Comments and criticisms are always welcome!
  19. First posting of a model on this forum (sorry, no WIP). Completed using Vallejo Acrylics, Panel washed using Windsor and Newton inks. First time doing pre-shading, but I'm very happy with how it came out. Dave
  20. I was commissioned by a friend of mine to build four models to recreate the trench run from Star Wars; Vader, two TIEs, and Luke's Red 5. I was excited about this because I wanted a chance to do another Red 5 X-wing after I completed my own last year and was never really happy with the final result. I started out with the cockpit and Luke. The interior was painted in Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) and given a couple of coats of Future for the decals. I'm not too happy with the decals on the control panels, but since you can barely see inside the cockpit when it was complete I decided to leave them. I then went around and picked out some details before painting Luke. After giving everything a coat of grey Alcad II Primer/Microfiller, I went to work preshading all of the numerous panel lines over the model with heavily thinned Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), which turned out to be quite a tedious job! After the preshading was complete, I began laying down the base color. In the past, I have used a 1:1 mix of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2) and Medium Grey (XF-20), which I think makes a fine color for Rebellion ships. However, I wanted to try something different so I picked up a couple of Vallejo mixing bottles at my FLGS and set to work mixing up a custom color. I mixed one 10mL jar of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2), 2/3 of a jar of Tamiya White (X-2), twelve drops of Tamiya Flat Earth (XF-52), and four drops of Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53). Overall, I was pleased with this color. Although there is an extensive decal sheet provided with the kit, none of the decals have any of the typical weathering found on so many Star Wars vehicles. As nice as Bandai decals are, I prefer to use paint wherever possible for the most consistent finish. For the paint chipping, I used a combination of Tamiya masking tape and Humbrol Maskol applied with a piece torn foam, trying to mimic the weathering on the filming miniature as best I can. After a couple of hours, I had all of the panels on the fuselage complete. I tried to follow the studio model as best I could, but I took some liberties on various panels. I used twelve different colors on the different panels!The panels are rather stark right now, but I will go over everything with some fine grit sandpaper to give them a work look and then a combination of filters, washes, and pigments for weathering will tone them down. I moved on to painting the S-foils, which is the most complicated part of the painting due to the squadron markings. Again, the kit is supplied with high quality decals, but I much prefer the finish of paint an it's easier to weather compared to the decals. Luckily, this is not my first time trying to mask X-wing squadron markings so it went pretty well overall. The hardest part is getting the hash marks properly spaced, but after a little trial and error I think I got it. Like the red stripes on the fuselage, I used a 10:1 mix of Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9) for the squadron markings. The decal sheet has a medium grey colored decal for the lower wing panel around the cutout. I decided to use Tamiya Cockpit Green (XF-71) instead because it appears to be greenish in the reference photos I have of the studio model. Above all, I just wanted a little splash of color on the wings. I also used this time to insert the engines that I had previously painted. They were done with a basecoat of Tamiya Gun Metal (X-10) over a black primer and then highlighted with a misting of Flat Aluminum (XF-16). They were then given a light drybrushing with some Tamiya metallic weathering powder. Both sets of S-foils and laser cannons are complete. For the engine nozzles, I sprayed them with Tamiya Dark Iron (XF-84). During the weathering process, they will get multiple drybrushes of various metallic pigments. The brownish panel on the starboard engine was painted with Tamiya Medium Grey (XF-20) and the panel on the port wing by the squadron markings was painted with Tamiya Buff (XF-57). The black squares on the lower wing were painted with Tamiya NATO Black (XF-69) and the bluish panels were painted with Vallejo Model Air US Blue Grey (71.114). The barber shop stripe was painted with a mix of Vallejo Model Air blues: French Blue, Dark Sea Blue, and Intermediate Blue. I don't remember the mix ratio; I just added the different paints until I got a color I like and that more or less matched the decal. Now that all of the painting is complete, the next step will be to give the entire model a light rub with some high grit sandpaper to tone the boldness of the panels down, followed by an overall ocher filter to warm the entire model, and then begin work on the detailed weathering with oils and then pigments.
  21. This is my MS-06F ZAKU II Gundam Suit - 1:100 Bandai Master Grade. The build can be seen here; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234990205-ms-06f-zaku-ii-gundam-suit-1100-bandai-master-grade/ Thanks to Shane from Japan:cool for supplying the kit for the build review here on BM. I fear I am now doomed to buy some of these Julien
  22. The kit can be seen in my inbox review here on BM. The intent is to build the kit out of be box. As it is multi coloured plastic, with push fits I am not using any glue or paint. Thanks to japan:cool for this kit. If you have any interest in Gundam please visit their website and have a look around. I can not be held responsible for any money spent there as they have too much "cool" stuff for sale. The kit has very detailed instructions, now I know a lot of the time we don't read these, but for this kit you do have to as there are a lot of parts inside the kit which help in the articulation, as well as supporting other parts. The instructions also help by showing what sprues you need to get out for each stage, handy when there are 12 in total! There is some cleaver engineering with multi colour parts on one sprue, and a mix of plastic on the same sprue. 1. The Body Unit The first construction stage is the main body unit. This consists of over 40 parts on its own. The first picture here shows the internal parts being put together; There are some external armoured conduits linking the front to the back of the suit. These are made on a flexible grey sprue with the armoured green parts moulded around this. After you have cut the whole part from the sprue you have to cut away each of the separate armoured parts from the runner. These are then slid along onto the part from there runner. It takes a fair bit of force to do these as there is obviously some heat involved in the moulding process, however the do slide along. Once the conduits are attached to the internal parts the outer armoured panels can be added. Here you can see the multi coloured parts coming into their own with the Body unit complete. This took a little over an hour after a good read of the instructions.
  23. You know how clumsy the imperial soldiers are. Their shooting ability should be a good indicator. So their camouflage ability should not be any different. Tired of that long lasting resistance in dirty, rainy forests of Endor, this AT-ST driver looks when his shift will end. Well, this is the story I made later. After seeing 2-3 AT-ST shared in BM (excellent one by Andy, the camo one), I said, I'd never come close to such works with my skills. So I wanted to make something different. And assembling a Bandai SW kit is not very satisfactory (actually it is but it is very easy, me feeling like assembling a Kinder Surprise kit). So to make things harder, I just decided to paint that black box at hipbone. And others part fallowed. Than I said why not to try few weathering. And I overdid it. I wish I knew where to stop Anyway, I continued with some leaves from J's work which I used for the first time and I'm pretty happy with them. As you know Bandai plastic tends to crack with some paints etc. and it cracked in few spots after the washes, which became battle scars I liked the colors I used in legs etc. I hate the wash in some points. And as a last touch of creativity(!?) after hair spray, I used carob powder (something I bought for cooking desserts, one of my other hobbies). It made the job and you know what, it smells good too So here are some pictures:
  24. I finally got around to taking some showcase photos of the TIEs for the ongoing Star Wars commission. I wanted to play around with using a white backdrop instead of the black backdrop that I usually use. Overall, I like it; the pictures seem brighter (duh!) and more vivid. I forgot to adjust the white balance on my camera before I shot these so they're slightly off but not too bad. I also need to get a better quality backdrop than the ones I currently have, but I'm in no hurry for that at the moment.
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