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About ScootyPuffJunior

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  • Birthday 07/07/1983

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    Purcellville, VA

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  1. You definitely should! It's a fun technique that gives such an interesting result and it especially helps with things painted in a single color by making it way more interesting.
  2. Thanks mate! It’s essentially the hairspray technique used for chipping, only in this case it isn’t representing chipped paint in the normal sense, but instead it’s meant to simulate worn and distressed paint.
  3. They're fine for what they are, but I really enjoy metal tracks. Plus, with the way this model is engineered, it's just about impossible to get the tracks on once the fenders are in place unless you keep them in multiple parts (and then you're trying to assemble and glue painted & weathered tracks on a painted & weathered tank).
  4. Tank, Infantry, Valentine Mk.IV Tamiya | 1/35 scale Tank, Infantry, Valentine Mk.IV in 1/35 scale from Tamiya with RB metal barrels and Masterclub metal tracks. Painted with Tamiya acrylics; weathered with, Vallejo acrylic weathering effects, Ammo and Mig Productions enamels; Ammo pigments and dirt from outside. Comments and criticism welcomed!
  5. Thanks mate! For pictures, I use an older camera body (Nikon D3100) with just the kit lens. Everything is set to manual on the camera and I shoot in RAW format. I use some anti-glare PVC backdrops I found on Amazon; I have a couple different colors, but prefer the white unless it clashes with the subject. I also have two large softboxes for the lighting. The only post I do is some color balancing and cropping/resizing with Gimp 2.0, which is freeware and good enough for what I need it for. The tiedown rope is white #2 bead cord (.45mm) that I "dyed" by dipping it in enamel washes. I found out about while watching a YouTube video from the guy that makes Value Gear stowage and it works brilliantly.
  6. M4A3(76)W HVSS "Easy Eight" Tamiya | 1/35 scale Tamiya's fantastic offering of the M4A3(76)W HVSS, commonly referred to as the "Easy Eight." Aftermarket goodies: Friul tracks, RB Model metal barrels (main gun and machine guns), Panzer Art antenna mount (I forgot to drop the actual antenna in the mount), Value Gear stowage. Painted with a combination of AK Interactive Real Colors, Tamiya, and Vallejo paints; weathered using Ammo of Mig, AK, and Mig Productions enamels, 502 Abteilung oils, and a touch of Vallejo acrylic weathering effects. Comments and criticism welcomed as always!
  7. Tamiya's new-ish T-55 in 1/48 scale. This model was built more or less out of the box with the only changes are sanding the tabs off one of the fuel tank brackets so I could leave one off and I added a piece of chain and a tarp made from tissue. Finished in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics; decals from Star Decals, AK Interactive and Mig washes; and Mig pigments. Comments and criticism welcome!
  8. Thanks! Academy has two Hetzer kits, an early and late. As far as I know, the only real difference is the exhaust, gun mantlet, and one of the spare track racks. You can only build the early version out of the kit I built but I don’t know if those parts are in the late version.
  9. Academy Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer (early) in 1/35 scale, painted it as "Chwat," a Hetzer captured by the Polish Home Army during the Warsaw Uprising in late summer 1944. Completed in AK Interactive Real Color lacquers; Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics; AK Interactive and Ammo by Mig enamels; Vallejo and Ammo by Mig pigments; and 502 Abtielung oils. The only changes made to kit were replacing the grab handles with brass rod, building new side skirts from thin sheet styrene, and replacing the kit mantlet/barrel (which are actually quite nice) with a resin/metal kit from DEF Model. Comments and criticism welcomed as always!
  10. Thanks everyone! Indeed there is! I have a Mk44H-0 Whiteknight Prototype on the bench right now plus five others waiting to be built.
  11. This kit is made by Wave and is in 1/20 scale, which makes it stand about 4-1/2" tall to the periscope on the back. Being a powered armor suit, there's a pilot that goes inside and the hatch on the top can be opened to show them (I opted not to do this). It also has limited articulation and can be posed in various ways, which is cool. I textured the entire model by painting it with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, letting it soften the plastic, and then attacking it with a stippling brush I fashioned from an old round tip brush. I added some weld beads with green stuff to all the various parts attached to the body, made pipe clamps out of strips of Tamiya tape hardened with liquid super glue for the red pipe, and made some angle brackets out of strip styrene for the power pack thing on the back. For the aerial, I used part of a Tamiya 1/35 scale M4 Sherman aerial mount with a piece of steel wire for the antenna. For painting, I wanted a worn, lived-in look to the paint so decided to go with hairspray chipping. After a black primer, I gave everything a coat of Vallejo Metal Color Steel to simulate the base material (cast steel). I applied hairspray and then a layer of red oxide "primer" using AK Interactive Rotbraun (AK717), then another layer of hairspray, then the main armor color using AK Interactive RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb aus.44 (AK714), another coat of hairspray, and then Tamiya IJN Grey (XF-75) for the countershaded camouflage before chipping everything. I added the decals and used a hobby knife to damage a few of them if they were placed on chipped paint. I added a basic pin wash with some enamels before sealing it in with matte varnish and going to town with various oil paints using a technique called oil paint rendering. I finished it off by giving the exhaust a rusted effect using some pigments and acrylic matte medium. Comments and criticism is welcome as always!
  12. Thanks! I use a Nikon D3100 with a 50mm f/1.8, on a tripod with a remote shutter. I shoot on a folding table with a white PVC seamless backdrop and two LimoStudio softboxes. I do some simple color correction and resizing with Gimp2.0. These models, like most of the stuff I shoot, I place directly on the seamless backdrop when I shoot them because I've found it gives me the best results.
  13. Brother-Chaplain Viator Primaris Space Marine Chaplain of the Raptors 4th Company Brother-Epistolary Maurinus Primaris Space Marine Librarian of the Raptors 4th Company I've recently gotten back into painting and playing Warhammer 40K (Kill Team, to be specific) and decided to add a couple of commanders to my Raptors chapter kill team. I chose a chaplain because they've always been my favorite space marine sculpts and a librarian because I've never painted one before. As far as paint schemes go, the chaplain is pretty standard except I tried to go a little easy on his bright and shiny bits since Raptors space marines favor stealth and hit-and-run tactics. Also, I used no black paints and instead used only dark greys to paint the "black" armor. Librarians are typically clad in blue power armor, but that doesn't really jive with the Raptors "tactical" manner of waging war in the name of the Emperor, so his armor is instead painted the usual olive drab of his battle-brothers leaving only his helmet blue to represent his position within the chapter. Comments and criticism welcome!
  14. Thanks everyone, I'm glad you have all enjoyed it! I'm taking it to my IPMS chapter's show next month and I'm excited to see how it does there.
  15. Renault FT in 1/35 scale by Meng-Model. The only changes to the kit are the use of metal chain and tool straps made with Tamiya tape to replace the photo etch ones provided in the kit. Finished in Vallejo Model Air (ugh...) and Tamiya acrylics; AK Interactive and Ammo of Mig enamels; and Ammo of Mig and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. As a whole, I think this kit turned out pretty good and I would place it as one of my better kits, which is funny because I started this kit almost a year ago and put it aside after I painted the camouflage because I was really unhappy with how it turned out. That being said, the strengths are the washes, oil paint rendering, the chipping, and the metal chain on the unditching tail. The weakness are the pigment effects and the camo paint. I'm not satisfied with the dirt effects (mainly on the tracks themselves) even though I think it's a step up from my previous efforts. I decided against using the kit-supplied base, as cool as it is, for a couple of reasons. It's a little too dramatic for my tastes and it's going to take more work than I'm willing to do to make it good. I'll probably swing by the craft store and grab a small wood plaque or picture frame and use it to build a little base to have the tank look like it's trundling down a dirt road on the Western Front. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
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