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  1. Moving on to my next project, a break from tracked vehicles. The Airfix K2/Y just popped up in my local hobby shop, so I grabbed one. They also had the Gecko kit, but after a few challenging builds I fancy a bit of break! I won’t waste space with a bunch of sprue shots, as that has been covered well elsewhere. I have decided to have a go at the Caunter scheme, hopefully a bit more straight forward than the Stuart I did last year. I have the paints in stock, Vallejo ModelAir for the Portland Stone and my attempts at the Starmer mixes in Tamiya acrylics. I had a look at the instructions for the Gecko kit on Scalemates (one of the reasons I decided on the Airfix kit - too much photoetch for me!), and noted that the colour callout suggests middle stone for inside of the rear cabin, rather than cream or white. This would align with a rather nice article I found concerning a restoration of a K2/Y here in Perth WA (see https://www.keymilitary.com/article/helping-hands). I have some Italeri Acryl middle stone, which I think will do. Perhaps not strictly accurate, but anything that avoids me having to brush paint a really pale colour…
  2. All of these CAD renders have been taken periodically over 2022, each vehicle has been modeled from separate parts items like the engines and gear boxes have been designed as single items, chassis frames, suspension, drive shafts, axles, door and other parts are separate parts (80 parts make up one of the vehicles) all designed for 3D printing. The parts and the vehicles were designed according to workshop manuals and individual component drawings, and a lot of help from owners of the real historic vehicle owners. Some are designed as conversions for the Italeri 109" Kits and before anyone asks Yes Mike @bootneck is aware of these and has helped me with the Series 3 Ambulance conversion. The next stage is to start test prints of the parts and once I'm happy with everything I am planning on making the files available for purchase buy others A full 17 CH 4 cylinder petrol engine Mike was happy when I sent him these images. Yes a full 3.5 Rover V8 engine Yes I have modeled the body door handles on the finished doors. The radio and vampire vehicles are void of any internal parts as I could not able to get anything on the equipment and considering it is still in service quite right too. The series 3 Ambulance body will be a conversion to the Italeri base Kit. I will post updates as I proceed with the test printing. Pete
  3. Some of you may have already noticed a Pz.IV hull lurking at background on the Matilda photos. Well, here it is. The kit is Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf.B. some of the things to add are the PE fenders and the basic set by Aber. I also have Modelkasten early 38cm tracks to use and an aluminum barrel is on its way as well. Assembling the hull is tricky to say the least. large thin details are somewhat warped and there are no exact location points to be guided of. I started slow gluing it together segment by segment, on a glass sheet under the gentle weight to ensure the hull to be as straight as possible. the rear wall was the least collaborate and needed some filling at the bottom edge. Hull assembled, the next thing to deal with was to correct the brackets that support the idler's tensioning system. Tristar has depicted these the later type beginning of Ausf.D. Ausf A/B/C had these different however. I didn't have any clear photo of the bracket though, so the rivets there are pretty much the way as Dragon has these on their early Pz.IV hull. Front tow eyelets were replaced by details left over from some Dragon kit - Seemed a bit more accurate to me and I had these on hand anyway. One of the things that bothers me about this kit is the loose fit of the wheels. Haven't touched the roadwheels yet, but both the sprocket and the Idler sit quite loosely, return rollers being the worst with a half mill larger diameter hole to fit in. Otherwise the kit seems to go together quite nicely so far. Cheers! Kristjan
  4. Hello folks Preview of my next project: Hetzer of the 272nd Volks-Grenadier-Division in the battle for Kesternich. See you soon! MD
  5. Hello folks Before the GB starts I would like to introduce you to my model. A lot of small parts in a full package made a lot of work, but the real nightmare are the 3 PE sets. As always there is also a small vignette, this time it goes to Omaha Beach, a few days after D-Day. Looking forward to many nice models, see you! MD There are 3 variants with many details
  6. Hi folks Now that the M3/4 GB is finished, I would like to continue with my work here. As you can read in the title, it's about the M12 GMC from Academy, which I finished building after a lot of work, but I couldn't paint it in time. As usual, I had also planned a vignette, so I still have a long way to go. Some of you already know my model from the GB, for all those interested I would like to present a few pictures with the most important milestones of the project. In the coming months I will be painting figures, pouring water, creating decals and weathering the M12. I would be happy if you join me in this process. MD The figures were more expensive than the kit The wall to the engine compartment was revised The bogies have been reworked to show the weight The drive housing has been improved The air filters were redesigned and printed The spade was also redesigned and printed The details of the bogies have been improved The gun socket was improved... also the fuel filler caps The complete rear section was rebuilt... and provided with missing rivets and weld seams Missing details of the gun were attached The drive for the height adjustment was added The trackguards were ground thinner The front trackguards were rebuilt Adding new details to the hatches The gun support revised and made movable The ammunition rack newly created Missing weld seams and holes added Casting markings applied The protective shield improved The drive wheels modified... for new AFV Club tracks (here you can see the weight distribution well) new seats The complete new winch is a model in itself The finished model with some accessories is ready for the last steps before painting When I look at the pictures again, I realise why I didn't finish them completely See you!
  7. I was gifted this for my birthday late last year. A fabulous (mostly) trouble free build. Brush painted with Vallejo Model Air for the main scheme, weathered using various Vallejo Model Washes. Finished with the markings for “The Saint”, which I think is a tank from the 10th Royal Hussars, 1st Armoured Division in North Africa. Build thread can be found here: Now sorely tempted by the Mk III… While I was taking photos in the morning sun, an inquisitive bee came along to inspect my work. And finally one in black and white:
  8. A kind friend in the USA bought me this old Academy kit. I won't build it quite 'OOB' - I'll definitely add the Eduard brass set - or part of it - and i need to move the crane, which is in the wrong place. I may also decide to use the 'late' bin-fit, rather than the early as on the picture here - but to begin with it doesn't make any difference to the build. So here we go. Out of order, of course - who needs instructions?
  9. Hello, everybody! Starting with a new model(s)... well actually started with these a while ago, but due to a slow progress haven't yet published it here. The kit is ICM ANZAC Ford Model T 3in1 kit, of which I'm building two. I have a Microdesign PE sets for both of them, a GasPatch Models beautifully made Lewis gun set and one figure from D-Day Miniature Studio for now. There is a small diorama setting with those two vehicles and a few more figures in my mind. Here are all the goodies I have at hand. The mudguards and the frame are molded into one piece and have quite a few KO marks underneath that will not be visible really, but I filled these anyway. One thing I wanted to try is to make the front axle movable at least on one of the vehicles to make the setting more lively. It required some on-the-edge surgery, but turned out to be not as hard as one might expect, As both of the kits have double details for the axle and the steering parts it made it a lot easier to do. Underneath I added brake linkages and rods. Again - won't be much visible, but an the other hand, why not. To date I'm a bit more than on a halfway there with the engine compartment, that included some added wiring and replaced piping. Here is the thing with the details dry-fitted. And with another one that is disassembled. Cheers! Kristjan
  10. Hello. I'm happy to present my newest project. It is the Scammell from Thunder Model with US Tractor D7 (dozer version) from Miniart. All in 1:35 scale. Cheers
  11. CMP F 15A Water Truck Mirror Models 1:35 The Ford built F 15A trucks were 4x4 versions of the ubiquitous CMP designed series of trucks. They had a wheelbase of 101” and could carry ¾ of a ton. There were a number of different bodies used, with the kit example being that of the water tanker. The kit comes in a very attractive, full colour box with a representation of the vehicle in use. The kit is contained on fourteen sprues of light grey styrene, plus two with a slightly mauve tint, although there are quite a few parts that are only destined for the spares box, as they are not used in this build. There is a single sprue of clear styrene, two sheets of etched copper, a length of rubber tubing, a length of copper wire, a length of steel wire, five rubber tyres and a medium sized decal sheet. All the parts are very nicely moulded, with no sign of flash or other imperfections and only a few moulding pips, but be aware of the sprue gates as they are quite large, even for the smaller parts. The build process is quite complex with lots of detail in and around the chassis, as for most truck models, so this won’t be a quick and easy build, but one that will need time, patience, and care to assemble, certainly not for a beginner. The instructions are very clear and easy to read, but not always logical, particularly with the way the sub-assemblies are used, although they use the CAD/Photo style of drawings. Before beginning assembly the modeller will have to make a choice of whether they are going to build a CMP F 15 or F 15A, as there are optional parts for both vehicles and each has different bonnets, and running gear, the F 15 being a 4 x 2 while the F 15A is 4 x 4. I’ve concentrated on the build of the F 15A. Construction begins with a load of sub assemblies. These include the rear cross member spring unit, which includes the tow hook, associated clamps and the anti-swing bars, front bumper frame, exhaust/silencer, fuel tank and gearbox. The assembly of the very nicely detailed engine is then started. The two block halves are glued together, followed by the lower block plate and sump, cylinder heads, front, which includes the auxiliary drive points plus the starter motor and air filter unit. The drive belt needs to be made of tape from the modellers stock. The water tank is assembled next. But before construction begins, you need to assemble the two pump assemblies, each made from five plastic, one PE part and a length of steel wire. The tank itself is in two halves, top and bottom. To these, the top access hatch, two lifting eyes and the vent mast are all attached. Four cradles are glued to the underside of the tank, followed by two longitudinal rails. To the rear of the tank the control cupboard is fitted, made from a single piece unit to which the water levels are fitted, along with the two doors and locking mechanism. The doors can be posed open if the modeller wishes. Two walkways are then attached, one per side of the tank, as are two, three piece stowage boxes and one two piece box. To the rear, two mudguard support beams are attached, followed by the mudguards and another stowage bin. The cab is assembled from the floor pan to which is fitted the scuttle, gearbox/engine cover, bonnet, wheel arches, windscreen, instrument binnacle, front end, grille and bonnet side panels. The four part seats, gear sticks, PE window hinges and pedals are then fitted. The two piece rear bulkhead is then attached, followed by the roof, rear window, two doors, wing mirrors and PE radiator grille. Finally we get to the chassis, which is normally one of the first things assembled in a truck kit. Each of the chassis rails is fitted with the single leaf springs and their supports at the front, whilst at the rear there are double leaf springs fitted, along with the tow bumper beams and their brackets. Each rail is then joined together by the front bumper, five cross members and the rear end beam with tow hook assembled earlier. With the chassis assembled, all the sub assemblies can now be fitted to it, the engine, exhaust, the front and rear differentials, transfer box, all joined together by the various drive shafts, truck fuel tanks, water tank assembly, cab and access steps, and the five piece wheels, which at this point you will have a completed model. Well, almost. You will then add eh rubber hoses above and below the front of the tank, joining the pumps with the outlets. Decals The decal sheet provides decals for seven different trucks, with various placards for around the truck, plain stars for the cab doors. The decals look like they have been printed in house and appear to be very well printed, with good opacity and very thin carrier film. Ford 15A with Cab 11 in Canadian service Ford F 15A with Cab 11 in Italian service Ford F 15 with Cab 13 in Canadian service Ford F15 with Cab 13 in British service There are also decals for other vehicles, well, their registration numbers, but not shown on the painting guide, as well as three German crosses for a captured vehicle, again, not mentioned on the guide. Conclusion It’s great to see another version of the well recognised CMP truck released as an injection moulded kit. Whilst it is certainly not for the beginner, with care, patience and a bit of skill the average modeller should be able to produce a great looking model. I continue to be pleasantly surprised by the quality of the mouldings and will certainly be looking forward to their future releases. UK Distributors for
  12. After many weeks of researching the Land Rover TACR1 fire truck, I feel able to attempt a part scratchbuild of one, or two. Over that time I have received lots of helpful advice and contributions from fellow BMrs, to whom I am very grateful. I must admit that I would not be able to attempt this without such help and I shall acknowledge their input within the relevant stages of my build. The donor kit will be an Italeri [6508] Land Rover series III Starting off with basic chassis from the kit. No changes need to be made at this stage. I would like make two TACR1s, one in Royal Naval livery and the other in Royal Air Force colours. Herewith the two kits in progress, note the different chassis rear ends, I think the lower vehicle had late series IIa chassis, similar to the one on the right in this view. The chassis front for both should be the same To make the TACR1 coachwork, I first need to cut back the kits rear side panels. Only the front 6mm will be used as part of the cab rear. The doors were tacked into place with GS-Hypo gel, in order to line up the cutdown rear panel sections. This conversion make take a fair bit of time, mainly as I am still trying to get the design right for the upper sections of the cab. I am attempting to draw that complex shape in CAD, with the intention of making 3D prints. Whether I will be successful only time will tell! Cheers, Mike
  13. I am in the process of scratchbuilding the fire-fighting section for a Land Rover TACR1, using the Revell 1:35 kit as a basis. I have the main details for the side and rear, with the help from Mick Bell plans, but I am having difficulty working out how the top looks. I've done searches on dozens of images but they are mainly quarter-angled side views. Does anyone have top down photos and details of how the roof area looks please? cheers, Mike
  14. I present my first Sherman in 1:35 scale. It’s the RFM kit of the Firefly Vc built straight out of the box with the markings of the 2nd Armoured Battalion, Grenadier Guards, 5 Guards Armoured Brigade in the Netherlands, September 1944 (so I assume involved with Market Garden). I got the hankering to build a larger scale Firefly after reading Brothers in Arms by James Holland over Christmas. Build thread can be found here: A bit fiddly in places, but all in all a very satisfying build. Brush painted with Vallejo acrylic for the main colour, details in Tamiya acrylics and finished with various Vallejo washes. Hope I did it justice.
  15. So, new day, new project. Since i'm still waiting on aftermarket parts for my Tiger project i decided i want to do something completly different. A Sherman.... I got this kit from Tamiya for a very good price and i thought i could give it a go. The M4 early type is a tank i know little about. After reading the build guide i decided to get me some information. So i downloaded a couple of usefull photo's on details. i know there are a lot of experts here that can provide me with additional tips on building this model. Also i want to state that this will be a ootb build, no PE or aftermarket parts. This means that there will be historical inacuracies regarding some bolts, hinges, thickness of certain parts etc. For me this is no problem. That beeing said, i want to do this iconic tank justice so i'll take it slow going over every step. No heavily damaged tank this time. I want to tone it down, focussing on a good and tidy build, work on my airbrush and paint skills and do some very light chipping and weathering. Can't blame a guy for trying The kit comes with figures and they look fairly descent so i might add them ( the KV2 project was a real eye opener regarding figures ) On to the build itself. Beeing a Tamiya kit i expect no major issues, however, the fit of the front hull plate seems a bit off Also, i need to close the gaps above the tracks because otherwise it will be a see trough model. Nothing that can't be solved with plasticard. the lower back plate is finnished and fitted, no issues there. I'm off to a good start. Enjoying myself wich is the most important part of modeling. I want to thank you guys in advancement for all the tips, tricks, technical details and words of encouragement. Feel free to tag along. I'll keep you guys posted. Cheers!
  16. 1/35 scale Tiger I Late Production Full Interior CAD & Zimmerit from Ryfield Model. http://www.ryefield-model.com/thread-3828-1.html https://hobbyzero.com/news/135-tiger-i-late-production-by-ryefield-model/
  17. I think i call this one done. It's the Tiger 1 "late" from Airfix. I used this model to learn about the Tiger since i want to build the 222. That Tiger was supposedly "borowed" by Michael Wittmann during the battle at Villers-Bocage. This Airfix model went together without any major issues in the build itself. The problem i have with this kit is that Airfix provides so much "wrong" parts in this kit that you have to really be carefull and study the instructions, dry fit everything and then realise that you still glued the wrong parts together. I made my own zimmerit from Tamiya epoxy putty. It's a skill in itself and i don't know yet if i will do it with the next Tiger build. That beeing said, i managed to pull of a descent looking heavily damaged zimmerit on this one. In the end i have to say i didn't "feel" this kit.... so lot's of mistakes in painting and weathering. Note to self: when no mojo, just put the kit aside This one i pushed across the finishline to be done with it. So there are many flaws. It is not my best work. Not all is bad though. This was a great subject to learn a few new tricks. Anyhow, here are the photo's. Any critique is more than welcome. Thanks for watching. Also a big shoutout to the guys on the Tiger 1 tread! They really know their stuff and they are a great help!!! Tnx guys!!!! and in color.....
  18. Howdy, Here is my latest armor build. This is Takom's M46 Patton done up in gaudy tiger markings, as seen on several USMC and US Army units during the Korean War. The kit is typical Takom in that fit is good, but it is touch over-engineered, and many parts required a good deal of cleanup. The stowage is mixed and matched from a few EXCELLENT Value Gear sets, some Tamiya, and some home made.Paint is Mr. Color, but the tiger stripes were done by hand with Vallejo black primer and off white colors. The paws, maw, and eyes are from Takom's amazing decal sheet. I kept the weathering very simple and organic on this one; just dark brown oil paint washes, with paint strategically moved around as it dried. This was followed by some very subtle dry brushing, and some paint chipping done with a dark brownish black color from Vallejo. A little bit of dark earth pigment on the undercarriage tied things together. Sometimes simple is the best. I'm very proud of this one. It isn't perfect, but its as close as I can probably manage. This is probably my favorite model I have ever built. I hope you enjoy the pictures. https://photos.smugmug.com/M46-Patton/i-BsDM2vN/1/2d8a84f0/XL/PXL_20221002_191217565-XL.jpg
  19. Kit - Tamiya Paint - All acrylics. Decals - Spares Extras - Stowage from spares. RB Models turned aluminium barrel. ISU-152 Unknown Assault Company Konigsburg Pocket Spring 1945 First started in December, then back to the bench about a month ago ahead of a competition over in Hamilton in September. Tamiya's well known ISU-152 really does fall together with only the link-and-length tracks giving [me] a challenge (I'm terrible at building & installing tracks). I chose to replace the kit barrel with an RB turned aluminium one, which is so heavy, I had to add a counterbalance of garden pebbles & Miliput in the rear of the hull ! - regardless it's well worth the investment IMHO. Other than that, the seated crewman and the couple of items of stowage, this is an OoB build. Paint is all acrylics mixed using the Mk.I eyeball method. Followed by the usual chipping, pin wash, oil-dot filter and then pastels (my least favourite aspect of weathering). For this I wanted the vehicle to look used but not abused - the 'duelling scar' on the front cheek is an experiment - never done that before. The rubble was a last-minute decision, again an experiment, but I love the look - the relatively clean topsides imply the crew has cleaned-off the worst of the dirt and it's collected on the fenders. Not sure if it's worked, would appreciate your thoughts on that. Nothing else to say for now, to the folks who followed the WiP thread here, thanks guys, really appreciate your encouragement along the way. Please criticise, question and comment. All the best from NZ. Ian.
  20. This one is finally over the finish line. Build log can be found here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235106243-matilda-ii/ Cheers! Kristjan
  21. Kicking the next one down the road. This time it is British Matilda II. Even though I don't have fond memories of Tamiya, it is the only manufacturer that makes Matilda, so no choice there. I have a lots of goodies to add to this one though, many of them TMD resin add-ons. These aren't outright necessity but I guess provide some variation of other Matilda builds out there. There are also a Voyager PE set, a MasterClub track set, an Aber barrel and an Echelon decals to get the markings correct. And it will be painted in Caunter scheme of course. So far the running gear is completed, hull has been glued together and both tracks have been assembled as well. Cheers! Kristjan
  22. I’ve got some leave coming up, and casting around for my next project I’ve decided on the RFM Sherman Firefly, which I picked up only a couple of months ago. Going to be a straight from the box build, rather fancy the Grenadier Guards markings. Paint scheme I gather is pretty straight forward - SCC 15, but there looks like lots of optional parts in the box… I’m no Sherman expert so any advice gratefully received! I’ve picked up some bits and pieces, such being careful to choose the correct sprocket . For the SCC15 I have some Mig AMMO paint, but was considering Vallejo Model Air 71.020 as per this link: http://www.plasticpanzers.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1023
  23. Built pretty much from the box, swapped the top .30 turret for a Sherman split hatch cuppola and left-off the tool boxes from rear. Paints are all Tamiya acrylics mixed by eye to 'try' and make the SCC13 Jungle Green. I've no idea what colour the earth is in Mandalay Burma, so mixed up some Mig Farm Soil & Vietnam Earth pigments and hoped for the best... Decals are by Star (35-C-1120) for a vehicle of the 3rd Carabiniers, 245th Indian Tank Brigade in Spring '45. Please feel free to make any comments or suggestions. All the best from New Zealand. Ian.
  24. Contents of Meng's 1/35 scale jeep: \ Some after market, Passion Models PE (designed for Tamiya) and resin tires from Trex. The subject will be a HQ vehicle. General Harry Crerar was often pictured at the wheel of the jeep. He was Canada's highest ranked field commander during the war in NWE. regards, Jack
  25. Here is the last of my recently finished armor models. I don't know why we don't see this kit built more often, as it was a blast to work on. The only part I disliked were the "working" tracks. I found them fragile and they broke several times during construction. Fixing was a pain as pinning one end often caused a break elsewhere on the run. My only additions to the kit were the tissue tarps and Tamiya tape, which was used to augment the leather belt harnesses on the side stowage bins. The belts now actually loop around the rods over and under the bins. Painting was done with Tamiya colors. The slightly different shades on the turret and hull are intentional, and are supposed to represent the French army's use of different factories to build different components of their tanks, in the late 1930s. Weathering is a mix of heavy umber and black oil washes, some very light dry-brusghing, dark brown paint "chipping" and scratching and some light pigment work. Of the batch of recent tanks that I posted. I think I like this one the best.
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