fingers

Where did you here this?

I think you have enough room for a set of ruts/track running parallel to the wing, especially as the carts would be either hand or, I supposed, water buffalo propelled and fairly compact. Dave

Looking the biz now cambridge well done. How about a cart track for the left over triangle? You could try the static grass and have tracks as extra interest. Dave

Hi, lovely diorama evolving here. I think that the earth banks would have a foot worn path along the top and be more vegetation covered. And may I also give a vote for the sisal string, I've used it, to my own lowish standard, for stream side weeds and it works ok and being a natural product it has nice variation built in for free. As the rice is hand planted it would be in 'rough' rows so a freehand approach would work well, I would be inclined to pre drill the hole (seconds with an archimedes drill) then pop whatever plants in, also the bottom of the paddy fields would, I think, be fairly flat and not massively textured due to them spending at least part of their life as semi self levelling mud.

Wow, just right beautiful model.

Well the out put is top class in quality and quantity. I hope, as far as modelling is concerned, when I retire to be in the same position.

Blimey, wonderful products. If you don't mind me asking is this a near full time occupation as your production must take hundreds maybe thousands of hours annually. Well done Dave

I agree with Mike the only time I had problems with stynylrez was on filled and highly polished/smooth plastic, it does make mr worry about it and a nmf though.

Thank you Muzz.

Okay, Susan. Dave.

Never stop, good habit.

Any news on the Tanmodel Buccaneer? Wasn't it due out before the New Year? Dave

Revell Aqua is good solid paint and good value for money. When brushing I thin mine with distilled water with 10% flow improver which seems to help. The one thing is that the range is limited so you will have the choice of making up mixes, being a little off with the colour or having some bits of another brand (I have Revell aqua, Vallejo and some Lifeclour all of which are good paint). IMO buy some basics (black, white etc) then add what you need model to model. Dave

Received check pm Dave

Brilliant have pm'd you. Thanks again Dave

Thanks for that link Tom the rigging tutorial in tha build thread was interesting. I am a little off from actually rigging the ship and was really after where on the deck or superstructure the major fore-aft cables should correctly be fitted, I can guess an approximation but consider that to be a last resort. I have checked out other builds but have found nothing conclusive and would prefer a plan or photo if possible. Would the WT office on KGV be the box stucture suspended just up from the foremast base? Thanks for the help. Dave (doing his first ship for 35 years).

Hi again, I'm still battling on with my Tamiya 1/350 KGV and I am at a point where I'm thinking about the rigging and any prep work I can do prior to gluing the deck on, to this end does anyone know the precise location where the various cables mount? I can see approximately from photo's but they do tend to be from a low angle and or blurred so the actual mounting point is hidden. I have the Topdrawings book on KGV but it is also not clear on this point. The Kgv I am building is a late war fit.

Great camo scheme, great finish weathered just enough love it.

Fantastic, marvelous, a little bit of art and originality giving us something special thank you.

Much cudos to you I can mess up a model with two hands so to attempt modelling with one is brilliant. May be instead of a vice (which always has the threat of spillage or splittage) you could have a screwed down piece of wood with a selection of holes, to allow different pots to be held securely, so you may apply a thumb nail or screwdriver or blade to open them.

Why overrated? Because when I built mine I found, especially for a state of the art kit, that some fit was poor (mainly where the engine covers and fuselage meet underneath). Also the small 'aerials' on the wing and tailplane tips are very fragile and thus prone to breaking and should have been supplied as seperate pieces. The engines, to make the covers fit, had to be 'de-detailed' it would have been better to have simplified versions for a closed build which you know would fit. That's all I can remember at the moment it still makes a good model but, working from reviews, the AMK Mig 31 seems to be the dog's danglies and I covet one.

Defo Mig 31, GWH Mig 29 is a little overrated imo.

Thanks again Mike I'll have a go and see how it looks. Dave

Thanks bootneck. It seems to me that the funnel outer is just 'bodywork' and as a modeling answer something akin to a drinking straw would make a fair representation of the 'inner funnel' wouldn't you think? Certainly better than being simply blanked off. Dave

For anyone with a similar problem I managed to get some quad 40mm bofors from L'arsenal who are a French site and do quite a range of ship resin etc.