Robert Stuart

Larry Niven? I really enjoyed his Known Space series, plenty of humour in the interactions between humans and the puppeteers. That topgallant sail looks a bit oversized to my eye, but, if I compare the KoP model to Vanguard's Alert, the proportions appear similar. (https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/alert-order/)

You are very welcome

The kit Apologies for the camera shake above, I get better now. Main kit Clockwise from the top, the flat wood parts, sail material, (ignore the ruler), the masts. In the middle, a unique number for the kit, and a 'systainer' of small parts. Unwrapped Those masts, they have the basic profile, but have a square section, the box of bits (blocks, belaying pins, ropes &c) and hull planking. 1P Frames and floors (ribs), 2P Gunwales, stand and lee boards, 3P Keel, stem & stern and more stand. Oars and sails Jigs Frame jig Skeleton jig More skeleton jig, and frame jigs (for canting frames) Planking, and fitting out stands.

For my next build, I propose to build a Shallop from Pavel Nikitin's kit. Link: http://shipsofpavelnikitin.com/details?id=46 Background In 1584, a pair of sea captains working for Walter Raleigh sailed for the New World, looking for lands 'not yet occupied by other Christians'. They found a territory that Raleigh called "Virginia". Queen Elizabeth knighted Walter Raleigh and made him governor of the new territory. In 1603, Elizabeth died, and James IV of Scotland succeeded her, becoming James I of England. 1607 saw the arrival of an expedition, sent by James, to build a settlement in Virginia, and open it up for colonisation. Among the expedition was a Captain John Smith, whose claims to fame include: Being rescued from captivity by Pocohontas (that Pocohontas or Pocahontas) Making a map of Chesapeake Bay and Virginia that would remain "in active use for seven decades" (1608) (source: US National Parks Service https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/smith-map-of-virginia.htm) Becoming governor of Virginia Primary source Library of Congress, Virginia Records Timeline: 1553 to 1743 A Shallop was a vessel used for coastal navigation, often used as a cargo tender or fishing boat. Larger shallops could also carry cannon. "English shallops could take over a dozen people and usually had a shallow draft of about 2 feet (0.6 m)." Wikipedia has a good definition, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallop.

Good catches on the bent keel plate and bulkhead 4 - I like your solutions to these issues. Could there have been commercial reasons for a deep keel combined with a shallow hold?

The wood was given three coats of varnish (see images below) and the rudder hinges were made. For the hinges, I used 10 thou plasticard cut into 1mm strips. These I bent around wood formers, using the heat gun to soften the plastic, aiding bending. The near, yellow rudder hinge was used; this photo shows spacers used to support the pin(s) while glue was setting off. The blue-grey (stern) was over complex, a simpler form was used. After gluing: The hinges were base painted black (Ammo MIG). By itself, I felt this was harsh on a wooden boat, so I overpainted with burnt sienna and transparent iron (Golden paints). These last two are very similar red-browns, the iron is slightly more yellow. Another detail I added was a painter, a short rope attached to the bow for tying the boat to ... well, something; a tree, a bollard, another boat. And ... we are finished! And, for scale, @Bertie McBoatface compared the oars to a matchstick: Is it a perfect build? No. There are very visible faults in the planking at the bow. One purpose of the build was for me to gather some learning before I embark on a shallop by the same maker. The shallop is a similar, clinker built, vessel, but with a mast (thread should start soon-ish). Would I recommend this kit? To a modeller with some experience, yes! There are issues that need some thought, nothing insurmountable. I am a slow builder, this was my first wooden boat build; it was completed in just over 20 days. Special thanks to Bertie for his supportive comments (all comments were supportive).

Oww! Wish I'd seen that page about a week ago, it would have been invaluable help with my boat. p.s. if you are looking for specific second hand books, check out abebooks (.co.uk in the UK, .com in the US) - it is a clearing house for second hand booksellers.

Is Bertie upsetting the Capt'n, asking too many questions? OT: That present from Mrs Courageous looks lovely.

Looks good Bertie, I like the variation with planking. Question: I get the camber across the deck, but, does the KoP's deck rise at the bow and stern?

Why did I think this was supposed to be a kit build?

Been a little quiet on this boat, working the oars. I broke three of them broke while working on thinning and rounding the oars ... they are so delicate, that I snapped one just setting up this photo. Next stage, varnishing, while I try to work out what to do about the rudder's hinges.

I suspect Prussia was a reference to Prussia Cove ... https://www.visitcornwall.com/things-to-do/beaches/prussia-cove And 'King' may have been a reference to a local gang leader ... ... but, a little ambiguity never hurts Bertie already said this, better

Thanks, I'm there now

That could be used to set up a series of scenes, or show a story over time.

Thought I'd signed up for this, maybe lost for smoke?

For me, that would be the old, black Airfix Defiant .... at least, the plastic started black, but I'm pretty sure it wound up a dirty white from glue fingerprints. Big H is out of stock of the 1/72 equivalent, but I have a 1/48 example in the loft.

Alternatively, look for architectural figures. They come in a range of scales, 1/150 would be close. I've used figures from PJPrintedModels found on eBay (IIRC they're based in Essex) - the selection delivered is random. You could ask for a special selection (e.g. avoid very wide figure, with spread arms or hands on hips).

If you are thinking epoxy, think about minimising clean-up later. For example, Milliput can be smoothed with water before it sets off, thus avoiding the need to sand back after.

Sorry, yes, paint and colour theory are a passion of mine

p.s. future builds will all be here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/711-future-group-builds/

Hello @zegeye, and thank-you for your support. Unfortunately, this proposal was withdrawn and archived, so won't be happening. Based on what I see in your blog, I feel you could happily join some of our 2024 builds. Imperial Japanese aircraft should be welcome in the Asia GB US naval types have a dedicated build There is a dedicated Mustang group build There will be other builds that might suit you, these are just the ones I think will fit your Pacific theme.

Long drying time in oils? Oil films dry by oxidation, and the drying time varies with pigment. The umbers are vastly quicker than either titanium or zinc white. Titanium white is opaque and (reasonably) durable, zinc white is translucent, but should be mixed with other colours (we are loosing too many impressionist paintings due to their use of unmixed zinc in oils) Are you aware of the Colour of Art Pigment Database? Link seems to vary, but this works https://www.artiscreation.com/Color_index_names.html Acrylic media dry by evaporation, and generally do not react with their pigments, and so are far more predictable

Bertie, I think you like deep, rich blues? Why not use some Prussian blue on the King of Prussia? The colour was developed about 1706, and would have been available by the time the KoP was working the Channel - and is readily available from several brands of artists' oils, acrylics or watercolours. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prussian_blue

Setting down here, plenty of options to build, in various scales.

This is a good suggestion, seen @Enzo the Magnificent build a few railway linked items here, pity we can't persuade him to host (or maybe we could ). OK, I too will sign up if somebody proposes the build.