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About rs2man

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    Nantwich , Cheshire

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  1. Make that a couple more - both Work In Progress & I flew regularly with 9AEF when we were in the Air Cadets in the late 70's , so I reckon it's likely we've both been up in the 9AEF aircraft .
  2. Can you tell me where you acquired the wheels ? John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  3. Nice work . I'm especially impressed with your HMS Victory - a really excellent result on a positively ancient kit .
  4. What an excellent model of what is , in my personal opinion , the most beautiful car ever made . I have to agree totally with your comments about the hi-tech version of the kit , which seemed to have been made complex purely for the sake of it . The white metal parts were generally rough & I don't think there was a single one of them which wouldn't have been better in plastic . Also , the extensive use of cut-down dressmakers pins as suspension pivots was a little strange , as was the use of flexible plasticfor the seats & (if I remember correctly) door trims. As regards the all-plastic curbside version , however , that was rather poor as well in my opinion - the dreadful silver decals for the headlamp surrounds were pathetic & the bonnet still had grooves in it which were intended to take polished aluminium rod in the hi-tech version , which of course was not supplied in the standard kit . I bought one & its only purpose will be as a parts donor when I build the hi-tech one - I will be using the bumpers & windscreen wipers , then probably putting the wheels on a Heller kit . The rest of it will go in the bin . I find it depressing that , 56 years after the launch of the E-Type , there's still not a really decent mainstream 1/24 kit of it . John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  5. Thank you Tony - greatly appreciated Cheers John
  6. Thanks Steve . Very useful Cheers John
  7. I recently acquired the 1/72 Revell Fokker D VII in the markings of Rudolf Berthold , thinking it should be relatively simple by WW1 aircraft standards since it has virtually no rigging & the kit claimed to include lozenge decal for the underside . I then found that the lozenge decal was just the outlines printed onto white decal & they expect you to paint the various colours into the outlines . I've decided that life's too short & intend to buy some Pegasus lozenge decal instead . However , Revell suggest it was 4-colour lozenge & the Roden kit of the same aircraft says 5-colour . Can anyone enlighten me as to which it was ? John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  8. Thanks for the info . I was looking for a painless OOB build , so I think I'll give them a miss . Cheers John
  9. I noticed last night that Hannants have three different Tauro Zara-class cruisers on special offer at the moment . Does anyone have any experience of these kits ? I quite fancy one , but won't bother if they're not decent kits . Any info would be greatly appreciated . John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  10. Looks nice , but I'm already subscribing to the Shelby Mustang & E Type , so I'll have to give this one a miss .
  11. Bob I'd be interested in that download as well please . John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  12. Nice . An extremely good result from an old & simple kit . Proof , as always , that it's not what you've got but what you do with it that counts
  13. That looks great Roy . Excellent job . Does the big red thing on the roof work the steering ?
  14. Have you thought of doing it two-tone - do the body one colour & the fender/running board assembly another ? Models like that look great with dark-colored fenders & a lighter body . That way you could paint the two parts separately & fix them together afterwards .
  15. As regards separate bonnets , bootlids etc , I try to jig the panels together with the body so they're clear of it but sitting above where they fit on the body . lumps of Blu Tak & cocktail sticks normally suffice . The reason for this is that you need to spray the whole thing together to ensure it all comes out exactly the same colour . This is especially important with metallics , since you need to ensure the same disposition of the metallic particles in the paint . Also , if the vehicle has separate front or rear valances which need attaching to the body , I always try to attach them & get them filled & sanded if necessary before paint . That way you don't end up with a beautifully painted but ill-fitting panel afterwards . Always tape the valances in place & test-fit the floorpan , interior etc first though , in case you need to modify something so it'll fit with the valances in place . As regards paint , I usually use Halfords aerosols for car bodies . If I'm painting something fiddly or delicate I might decant into a jar & put it through the airbrush , but normally I use them direct from the aerosol . Hope this helps John Green Nantwich , Cheshire