ben_m

Seal in the decals before weathering with another coat or two of gloss varnish, this makes the surface of the paint more similar to the surface of the decals and so be more likely to weather the same way. It also protects the decals if things go wrong with the weathering and you need to remove it.

From Chris Thomas:

Sorry, did I mean Lockheed 14?

Another nice PR Hudson was G-AGAR,

I have a built but not painted MPM version of the kit (sold as a mk.i), it is a pig to wrestle into correct alignment/fit. i think the italeri boxing is the same plastic, and should have the earlier engines. Also a solid nose for making a lodestar.

LC is being used as the squadron code, what is strange is the lack of individual letter. The 3 spitfire formation are not clones in CGI, the centre one has wing stiffeners and canon bulges, and the bases of canon fairings, and the camo pattern is different between the top and middle ones.

I stupidly made a new thread here: Strange choice to use CGI of the ground aircraft, rather than CGI the bits of the ground aircraft to look like the real thing.

I would have expected all aircraft in flight to have been CGI, but the 109 and Spitfire chase over the ship must be real, as the 109 is a Buchon (at 1:04). At 1:47 it looks like CGI, so maybe they just used CGI Buchons to match real ones they were using in the ground scenes? At 1:54 the middle 'Mk.I' Spitfire is a Mk.V with cannon fairings removed- this would also suggest it is real, not CGI?

The bubbletop boxings have the same fuselage sprue, the cardoor and Mk. Ia boxings have different shape openings for the cockpit- the early canopy had a more upright windscreen, and also have the under-the-rear-canopy parts for the cardoor, and the solid fairing of the early Ia. Another thing to note/change for early typhoon fuselages it whether the aircraft you are modelling has the side vents (for cockpit carbon monoxide venting), and the relocated gun camera near the the engine/just above the radiator fairing.

I might have been misinterpreting, and my words being read as something other than intended, but to me a 'clean build' doesn't refer in any way to the level of weathering, it refers to the neatness of the build, for example, seam elimination, correct alignment and angles, and clean masking of hard edges like canopy frames.

The advantage of the Tamika tape to decal film or thin metal foil is that it is happy not being fully conformed to the model, so the vertical seam in particular doesn't show through.

I don't think it was an oversight on Brengun's part- they are using that joint line as the line for cutting the tail unit off if you want to use the 'tempest' tail planes, and it would be tricky to save the plate detail if you were doing this. I have done two Typhoons without these plates moulded (Brengun bubbletop and Pavla car-door), and have done both with Tamiya tape, but I don't intend to remove the tape! They look pretty convincing to me. Better, even if I say so myself, than the Airfix ones that get so ill-defined and shallow as they approach the top and bottom seam (due to how the mould is made, for ease of release of the part, I guess). And much, much better than the incredibility proud line of warts around the tail of the Academy kit.

Thansk, it is a type of pre-shading, using an idea I saw used by Steffen Arndt on Aeroscale a few years ago. You can see the process building up the effects layer-by-layer on the second page of the WIP:

Paul, I don't think Eugen is looking for a kit, but references/source material for producing a kit, (e.g. )

I've a less favourable view of the Hobbyboss. I basically has the same shape issues as the Academy- engine cowlings are too curved, and added to the too small and point spinner make the nose look quite wrong. Also prop blades shape is not right. Easy fixes for a much better looking Hobby Boss or Academy Typhoon are changing the length and angle of the main gear legs, and the tailwheel: Compare the 4th photo here: http://gregers.fr.yuku.com/topic/10313/Hobby-Boss-Hawker-Typhoon-1B#.WC1g3uaLSxo with the real thing's sit (note angle of gear door lower edges and ground, the location of the wheel hub relative to the gear door, and the height of the tail): https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Hawker_Typhoon#/media/File:Hawker_Typhoon_MkIB.jpg