sissyboy

If you can wait a couple of days for me to dig through my stuff, I can shoot you some pics of both the first and second types of the Denison Smock. PM me when you get a chance.

Yet another tool I make myself. Maybe I should just start selling extras and maybe make enough spare coin to buy some actual Plasticard instead of scavenging sheet styrene from signs, packaging, or whatever.

In US Stores its in the same place you find Thinners and turpentines. I can't imagine that your guys well stocked hardware stores would be much different.

Scratchbuilders have been manipulating plastic into shapes like airfoils for years with hot water or hairdryers. Same goes for resin. Armor modellers have been bending straight resin track lengths around sprockets for years without them returning to their straight shape. Any resin piece that I have had to take a warp out of has never returned to a warped state. I'm not sure why your friend is having problems, after a trip through the boiling water he should be able to tie the fuselage in knot if he wishes.

Here's the trick that I was taught years ago: Once you've reached the point where you're sure the seam is gone, hold the piece up so you're looking down it at about a 30%-45% angle and catching good strong reflected light. You should see a uniform surface no matter how you turn or roll it around. If you see spots that are shinier, or rougher than the rest, or still see an actual seam line, go back and sand/polish some more. Once the whole kit, or subassembly, can pass this test (totally even, shiney surface with only things like panel lines interrupting the scenery), it's time to shoot your primer coat. Once the primer is filly cured, do the reflection test again. If you see anything that doesn't belong, sand again, then reprime. Continue until all the flaws have been found and fixed. Sounds labor intensive, and the first few times you do it it's kinda a pain in the rear. But discovering a flaw after a color coat goes down costs more time, and aggrevation, to fix than if it were taken care of in the first place.

Understand perfectly. Again, you do some fine work. I really like your Firebrand, what a Brute!

That is some seriously nice work! So, on vac's this big do you foam-fill, go with bulkheads, or just rely on the fuselage contact points?

I have to tell you Bob, that is one of the most AWSOME things I have seen. Oh, the plane thing is Ok to I guess.

It's a bit late in the game here, but for the benefit of others who have this problem. Most resin parts can be manipulated a bit if you dip it in hot water. The amount of manipulation is going to depend on the thickness, formulation of the resin, and your own skill. Most of the time you can fix warps, and hollow shapes such as intakes. The technique does have its limitations, but it is worth giving a try most of the time. After all, armor guys have been bending resin track lengths around sprockets and wheels for years.

If you have a picture, or drawing that is at scale (or you can scale), you give this a try: 1. Lay frisket paper over the artwork, and cut along the lines with a nice sharp blade. 2. Paint the light color on the model. 3. Pull up the squares that cover the light color on the artwork, and place them on the model in the correct places. Most of them should go on fine, but you will more than likely have to "custom cut" a couple of the squares to fit around certain parts. This is acually the only tough part. Just be patient, and you will do fine. 4. Paint the dark color. 5. Pull up the friskets. 6. Touch up with a brush if needed. You should give it a dry run on a scrap peice of styrene sheet (or whatever) to get a bit of practice. It's well worth the buck, or pound as you guys on the other side of the pond say, in material to give you the practice and pump up your confidence.

Thank's for the correction. I am eager to see any pics of any armed RhAF Helicopters. BTW, love that shelter. thanks, John

If you find yourself needing to bend resin, such as in the case of a warped part, dip it in hot water. This will "soften" it up enough to manipulate its shape a bit. As usual go slow and be careful. If there is a "Queen of the Castle", make sure you get permission to use her stove, her water, and her pot, and make sure you have plenty of adult supervision.

Cool collection! You can never have too much Rhodie stuff! Did you scratch the guns and mount on the K-Car, or is it an aftermarket bit? A RhAF Alouette III has been on my to-do list for a while now, but I've been holding off until I get better picks of the gun mount and cockpit.

I think the same Gremlin that keeps moving the #11 blade dispenser around my workbench, also hardens up the superglue days before the start of my next project.

When I'm not using a CA type glue I use straight MEK. It's pretty old school, and very unhealthy if you don't respect it, but I have found nothing else that will stick plastic together forever like this stuff does.