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TapChan

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About TapChan

  • Birthday 02/01/1988

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    Belgium

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  1. I'd say the radome comes first as it is completely out of Flanker shape. Also those intake edges seem to be too sharp. Academy isn't good in current times, all those aftermarket parts you need to fix it together with kit itself would definitely cost equal or even more than GWH kit. Kitty hawks are OK-ish as far as you can get one like 25% off (so in my case ~€55). There should be your answer
  2. @RupertTheBear My workaround - BlueStuff + Milliput. It is nowhere near good but as for home shelf sitter pretty enough. While doing this I made my decision not to buy KH kits anymore, unless they change their strategy. Hope that Flanker series will become their big fiasco and make them re-consider their further direction. Birds are singing that G.W.H. plans to expand their Flanker family, also by some canards
  3. Yeah, pylons. Even in other KH kits they give you only 2 pylons of a type, that's far too little for even the jet it is coming from. For Su-35 I had to steal 2 AKU-470 pylons from Su-34 in order to hang 4x R-27 (and missile fins because one kit contains bodies for 4 missiles but only enough fins for 2 missiles). You can buy KH's russian weapons kit for only €35 which makes Su-30SM (~€115 total) equal to Su-35 (~€60) content-wise. Then also a fact the canopy looks as it looks and putting pilots behind will give a poor result... This kit is priced higher than G.W.H. Su-27UB, is worse in detail, fitting and content (weaponry). Salty words from someone who has canarded Su-30 on top of his list and was waiting nervously for the kit since it was announced somewhere 1,5 year ago. KittyHawk aimed higher price level than G.W.H. bringing no quality improvement and even reducing the box content. I was always standing behind their back when they were giving average quality for average price.
  4. Thank you for your opinion. After a tiny research it turns out to be surprisingly hard to find workable plastic tracks for Tiger II/ Jagdtiger. The choice is to either get €30 Friul tracks or some individual but non-workable ones for half that price. I wish Miniart make more tracks just like their T-55 ones. Oh, well, I'll have to find out the best by myself. Any updates on the build? Edit/ I forgot about Meng tracks. Seem to be just perfect except the price, which is just few cents cheaper than Friul.
  5. What was the worst nightmare regarding the kit tracks? I have this kit but i'm not seeing myself buying friulmodel tracks for it.
  6. There is no separate aircap, only one included in the set. You forgot that beside the machining tolerance there comes also matherials quality. I believe such thing wouldn't even pass quality control in i.e. Iwata or wherever they produce Tamiyas and Procons.
  7. This is my cheap Iwata clone, €40 wasted, could've burn it in the fireplace. I realized it after a year of newbie airbrushing and constant problems/fails. As it came with two sets of needle/nozzle (0,3 and 0,2) I've switched them and looks just the same. For me it seems that either nozzle cap is not following the axis or whole nozzle base is not straight. I bet on second one because as I progress with screwing in air cap and look from the front I can see nozzle sticking to one side only. Plus after a year of painting and using not very aggressive thinners/cleaners I notice the paint keep leaking backwards through the needle nest seal. It must be of a very poor quality, now the paint leaks backward and dries there so after a day or two the whole mechanism is getting stuck and I have to use a bit of force to pull the needle and to clean it. On the other hand I bought GSI Creos Procon Boy WA and it works just perfectly, PTFE needle seal is doing well, no problems with cleaning or clogging, paint atomisation is just outstanding. If i can advise you then never buy cheap airbrush for beginning. You'll never know if the problem is on your side or on the tool side. Problems unheard of anywhere in good airbrushes may make you dislike painting. I know it from experience, I have started airbrushing about 5 years ago but after 2,5 models and painting problems I quit and came back just recently. If I was to choose cheap airbrush for beginning then I'd probably go for Sparmax SP-35C, they at least have some quality control and spare parts are realitvely cheap in EU.
  8. This aircraft reminds me of that: Very nice build
  9. I don't like Harrier's silhouette but this one is one deserves at least a comment
  10. ROG doesn't have as much flash. At least the one I have on the bench now. But my canopy have some kind of soot moulded in it . Plus the windshield has thickness difference around the attachement point so it does have different distortion around.
  11. Rewind to 11:40 please This topic has recently appeared on one of polish forums. It seem to be related with nozzle size/desired spraying area/distance between nozzle and surface. Here's more about it: PS. By myself I'd recommend to use MLT (self-levelling).
  12. I use PS-274 ProconBoy which seem to have no seal for nozzle and ptfe seal for needle. I also think of H&S Evolution which also has PTFE.
  13. I use Gunze MLT for cleaning. Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is also good but still no match to MLT. Usually I was putting few drops of cleaner and then "bubble" the mixture. I've noticed that while after around 3 rinses Tamiya AC was going already clean, next few drops of MLT were still dissolving some paint. I am also going to check Gunze's Tool Cleaner, I'm curious if it's any better than MLT. Of course before using powerful cleaners I first do 2 rinses with cheap polish Wamod cleaner, which works better than Tamiya Acrylic Thinner (which I also tested but find it useless in that matter).
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