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Simon Cornes

Gold Member
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About Simon Cornes

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 16/08/60

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    mail@simoncornes.plus.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stoke-on-Trent
  • Interests
    Mainly RAF jets + USAF/USN/USMC.

Recent Profile Visitors

5,238 profile views
  1. What a great model! I love the canopy and note the reflex curves on the canopy and side screens, must have been very difficult to vac form that but the effort was really worthwhile as the result is superb!
  2. Well its good to hear from Benoit and to know that he keeps an eye on Britmodeller. Also to have a little idea of how his project didn't quite make it this time but hopefully it may take flight in the future, and the technology may have progressed to make production easier. I think the issue will be to get all of the masters for the casting process produced and Benoit can do that when he has the time. Once that's done its 'relatively' simple or is it? !! Simon
  3. None that I am aware of'. I think many/most will have had their deposits refunded. I took the view that Benoit could hang on to my 50 USD as an advanced deposit but, reading between the lines, I think he really had his fingers burnt and got the stress out of the project he had hoped to avoid. He seems to be carrying on with the avialogs - which don't interest me - and I still hope that the Blenheim project may carry on but I've not e-mailed Benoit for an update.
  4. Contact Airfix Andy on this site. He runs the IPMS Tornado SIG and what those guys don't know about The Fin isn't worth knowing!! Simon
  5. Yes, I've sen this in my recent searches for information. It struck me that I need to get hold of some Baremetal adhesive as I assume you can't use the likes of Gator glue to attach it. Wonder of Paul at Little Cars stocks it? I will persist with the paint though and Greg's advise to layer up the Hot Metal Sepia that Alclad do - and that I have in stock, unopened - was very useful. The whole process is very experimental though - I am used to blasting on a coat of Medium Sea Grey or whatever so all this subtlety is new to me!!
  6. Thanks Greg, very inspirational build so thanks for the link but I'm wondering what mix of red, blue and green produced that sort of burnt golden brown colour - which looks spot on! I am also looking at photos of a French Hun where some of the staining is basically electric blue and almost pure silver - must have got incredibly hot! Also just ordered a copy of 'Bury Us Upside Down' on the strength of that thread!! Cheers Simon
  7. Well I bought the above hot metal colours and also some transparent red and a bottle of transparent medium. To be honest I had no idea what the transparent medium was for but I've just read the bottle label (good idea, huh! ) and it is just for diluting the transparent red but does anyone have any experience of using the stuff? Simon
  8. Well, I've started with a base coat - on top of the Halfords Grey - of AlClad White Aluminium 106 on the basis that I'll probably use the standard Aluminium for the rest of the airframe and so I want a bit of contrast to start with. All dressed in best Darth Vader mask and one blue glove, Michael Jackson stylee I can manage about 10 minutes of spraying before a blast of fresh air is required - and grief its chilly! I have come to the conclusion that I will have to reduce the paint flow rate to a mere trickle in order to get enough control because, when you see the work done by obvious experts, the colour changes are so subtle that you just can't go blasting it on, having said that the guys on LSP have published some images of F-100's where the 'hot blue' is virtually an electric shade, unbelievably bright with high contrast with the ares near to the rivet lines. Also interesting to see that there are parts which are consistently heat stained to simian degrees on different airframes. Thanks for the suggestion about using touches of enamel CT, well worth considering. My big concern was "Where the h++l is the cellulose thinners?" After putting on the paint! Thankfully I found it and the brush is now clean again but I'm glad I've made a start. Very wise words James but I'm hoping that any cock ups can be sprayed over (lightly) and that I can learn as I go along. Of course it may all go very pear shaped but I'm lined up to buy 4 or 5 bottles of Alclads finest tomorrow so I may be able to experiment further 'this year' or it may have to wait until the next! Thanks Guys Simon
  9. Thanks Tony Just checked and I have pale burnt metal so just the violet and the blue to get hold of and I know where from! Simon
  10. Hu Guys, I'm after a bit of advice/opinion on how to tackle this. I have 1/32nd Trumpeter F-100 to paint. Most of it is in straight aluminium as the aircraft was sprayed with 'aluminised lacquer' to protect the natural metal. But the rear fuselage, clad in Titanium, was left bare because it got a bit warm. Now I am an Alclad fan. What that means is that I have 7 or 8 assorted bottles and I used it for the first time on a 1/48th Mirage a year or so back and it was no where near as frightening as I had thought! So I am wondering how best to proceed. I have just blasted on a coat of Halfords grey plastic primer - I may well use the white primer for the rest of the airframe. I'm thinking of getting hold of a bottle of Alclad Magnesium (111) because the Titanium colour is in the high shine range (118) and I think it just wouldn't work. Logically you should go for lighter colours first? I'm just looking at an earlier thread where the modeller was oppenheimer and he used a polished aluminium base coat (ALC-105) then hot metal blue (ALC413), then hot metal violet (ALC417) then transparent yellow (ALC402). To be honest, it looks very good but maybe too yellow in my eyes so maybe just the blue and violet. I am not looking for a super shiny finish hence going for grey primer rather than gloss black so maybe I could use pale burnt metal (104) instead of polished aluminium? I know there is no single answer but I would be very interested in your opinions! Many thanks Simon
  11. That's a great bit of work and, as has been said previously, good to see an AlleyCat conversion in use. I have several to do when I get around to it and I almost bought another conversion in the Kit Swap at Telford because it was around £15 but then I thought about yet more storage space for a built Javelin and decided to let someone else have the pleasure!! Simon
  12. Thanks Dave Well, that's straightforward then! Simon
  13. Well, after finding fault with the December issue I have to say that, having just finished the January issue I have to say that, in my opinion, this one is very good! I haven't noticed any faux pas - but you may have! Anyway, I am happy to be even handed in my opinions about magazines so I am pleased to be able to be positive this month!! Wondering if I need to buy a FLY Wessex now !! Very interesting article about Special Hobby and their relationship with CMK and MPM. All I need to know is the relationship between CMR and CMK - are they part of the same group as well? Simon
  14. Reminder

    Maybe lager? For the Southern Ocean criminals?
  15. Depends on the scale but I always though Humbrol 127 (Light Gull Gray) was about right for the hull. A very subjective subject though because sometimes hull grey looks like a mix of just black and white but at other times it seems to have a bluish tinge due to reflections. I have used 127 at 1/96th and am happy with that and then something like Humbrio 27 for decks. Bear in mind that the stuff is mixed in big drums when used at 1:1 and so the shade can even vary along the hull and certainly between ships. In practical terms, if it looks right to you then go for it!