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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

Tony Oliver

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Tony Oliver last won the day on June 6

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About Tony Oliver

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Trying to glue & paint bits of plastic.

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  1. Couple vf 14 bits from weekend: Brassin sidewinder nose caps: Panel line washes - meduim grey on the dark ghost and deep grey on the blue grey. In keeping with the mig ammo theme for this build - trying out these new varnishes that I bought last week. Satin and ultra matt. Used them both straight and a mix of the two to get a variety of sheens on the plane. Went satin on ordnance, u/c legs bays and doors etc. Ultra matt on top then the matt mix on the lowers... Need to spray the ultra matt very lightly and several coats and not let it build up and be a wet coat otherwise it dries chalky.
  2. Looking lovely mate 👍🏿
  3. Few details been done on the vf-111, bays and bladders. Just used a dark grey akan from my stash. Also tested out some hataka red line paints for the vf21 - tps with a gunship grey skunk stripe. These are new stock so none of the grittiness. I also added neutral grey to go with the gunship to see what a F16 future build will look like with these paints. Then added the light grey aswell for interest. So colours are as per the jars are laid out - in the centre left to right - neutral, medium/bluegrey, dark ghost, light ghost. Gunship along top and then light grey 36495 along the bottom. Sprayed straight from the bottle. 0.3mm needle at 20psi. cheers!
  4. Done 👍🏿 and shared with some mates on whatsapp 👍🏿
  5. True, was browsing some dog and car forums, (I have other hobbies) and loads of missing pictures there too - lost information and references which is frustrating...
  6. So an update on the low viz vf 111 line bird. I wanted to try out and perfect this maskol technique for replicating the corrosion control paint touch ups. I went for a more dirty look this time compared to the vf14 plane. Also found a safer way to remove the maskol, details below... 1st plane is coated overall in solid gull grey (akan) and then after a couple days the maskol is applied with a fine brush. A thinned dirty brown grey (mixed from akan and mig ammo Transparator) is post shaded all over the jet. Last time I tried removing with tweezers to try and pick the bits off, which resulted in scratches, or used tape to cover surfaces and pull off multiple sections of maskol, but this made some paint lift too. This time I just rubbed blue tac across to remove the maskol. Much safer and quicker! Then it looked like this. Undersides Showing state after maskol removed. Plastic card T shape in sparrow fin slot works with foam wedge (masks prepainting too) in nose gear bay to keep the model off of surfaces and protect paint, especially the ventral fins. Skewers have packing foam rolled around them (brassin packets) to aid as handles when holding. Avoiding damage and fingerprints. Next is the blending coat. Gull grey again, thinned with aquagloss so the postshade isn't complete obliterated, but also to toughen up the paint and help it stick to itself as the first gull coat was very smooth and satin. (In contrast to the vf -14, where I managed to get a more matt finish with the mig ammo paints on that build so it gave the later thin blending coats something more to grip) These akan paints sprayed lovely over the stynylrez, which was almost a decal ready surface with the base coat. Seeing as acrylics normally don't stick well to smooth surfaces, so I was worried about the thinned gull coat sticking well enough, considering there is masking to be done for wheel wells, wing bladders, leading edges etc. Last thing you'd want is to pull the top layer blending coat off when demasking from doing these areas. So aswell as adding transparency and toughness to the blending layer, it also increased the gloss so it's definitely ready for decals I tried to get a more swirly blotchy effect when adding the blending coat too. Here is the finished work in general and then in detail. So thats where it stands at the minute... Thanks for looking, Ps some akan metallics are on the way for this build too... Looking forward to trying them out.
  7. Thanks Parip!
  8. Decal experience for the Tophatter was disappointing... Not only was it an old hasegawa sheet that was all cracked, they seemed wrong as well as misprinted. They were all covered in microscale decal film to stop them breaking up, which meant they all had to be cut out individualy as well. Once they were off the sheet is when the misprint became apparent. The grey not being aligned with the white base, giving a drop shadow on some of the larger ones eg numbers, but all the small stencils and the like were unuseable as about impossible to try and trim all the white away. Plus even if they weren't misprinted, the style of modex numbers doesn't match period pics. More on that in a bit. In the end the only ones I used were the stars and bars, tail logos, jfk's, hats for droptanks and the build number. Fortunately in my spares I had some spare vf14's and AC tail codes in black (which needed to be dark grey) And then generic stencils in various greys, which all needed to be medium grey though. In terms of accuracy, the decals provided on the hasegawa sheet seem to be a composite of the 1991-1993 period, with some parts matching different photos. I can't find one picture that matches all what they have provided (I suppose there may be one out there?) In the several real pics of 100 and 103 from that time frame there are variations in the placement of the carrier name, vf 14 position and the contrast of the stencils, as well as some other things I won't bore you with... In the end I picked one of the photos only and tried to match her as close to that as possible. Its the 9th one down, with the helicopter hovering in front of it. http://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VF/Fighter-Squadron-14.htm Pictures of the problems and solutions. White shadow to the numbers. And they're not slanted either. I added some dark grey tips to the wings and stabs, another common tophat feature. Note initial 103's on flaps with the white shadow. Subsequently Removed. 103's being made up from 101's Decals applied that mostly are too dark in shade. New slanted 103's. Insignia too dark though. Tanks and ordnance decalled too. Trying to get brown decal stripes to photo well is a challenge. They look purple black in this pic? Decals turned to grey from black using the relevant background base color it was applied on mixed with Transparator. Note stars and bars now the same tone as the rescue data as per the ref pic in link, and the now subduded intake warning, navy and AC (was black) Decals made for the glove vane panel lines. So much easier than trying to trim out the kit parts then fit the wedge in with an even gap all around it... Might put these on ebay as a shortcut for all tomcat kits? Thats all for now with the Tophatter bird...
  9. Tophatters loadout being done. General view of the light ghost grey being sprayed. Sparrows are brassin, sidewinders are tamiya (from their block 50 f-16cj) and the bombs are hasegawa. The hasegawa mk83 bombs were quite crude so they had some work over several days. First they were cleaned up and the raised ridges removed and pin marks filled. The real things seem to be a cast bomb at the front and a sheet/pressed metal rear fin section. So I masked them off and stippled mr surfacer 500 on them which was then sanded back a touch. Then they were sprayed in grey, then the grey masked off and the green parts done in a shade mixed up from the mig ammo greens I have. Fuses will be some spare brassin ones I have. Sidewinders may have some RBF caps and tags added yet, not sure. Grey on, to be masked for green still. Very pleased with how these mig ammo paints are working for me now 50/50 mix turned out about right as one is too dark and the other too light. Cheers, decal update next.
  10. Yeah I used that blog as reference for my build. I did a black 8 cause it looks better in b&w photos of the model. Plus in the photo of the real thing - the supposed 'red' 8 is darker than the brick red fuselage band? Have a look a the pic in my RFI, looks pretty close... Unless there is some photography trickery going on in the way colours react on b&w film? Sorry to @galgos if this is sidetracked his wip.
  11. Few other bits done. Not much as had alot on this past week so no real bench time. White bits done on the vf14 - u/c bays, gear, doors, sparrow noses, exhaust tubes etc. Mig ammo acrylic satin white to match the rest of the paints obviously... In other news - Got a small problem with the decals for this plane , more on that in a future post. Another little job done was grey tailfin leading edges for the low viz gull vf 111. The fcm sheet says corroguard for these, but looking at the pic of the real plane in the link a few posts above, that doesn't seem right. The new 1/48 furball sundowners anthology sheet has this plane on it, and suggests dark ghost grey for them. Looks about right as they are darker than the gull grey of the plane but not as dark as the medium grey of the markings. Another detail noticed from the real plane are the small colour/yellow sundowners badges on each side, central below the cockpit. These are missing from the FCM sheet so will taken from my hasegawa pacific fleet boxing. Lastly some new resin trickery - hasegawa etch circuit breaker panels to go either side of the rio's seat for future hobbyboss builds. Mastered on 0.25mm plastic card. Cheers, Tony
  12. Cloudiness can be caused by humidity too, especially in rattle cans. As in it can be warm with no rain for spraying but still alot of moisture in the air? I've been having troubles lately with humidity too, but casting resin...
  13. Smashing!
  14. They have got back to me asking for some pictures to show the problem. Will try and get some done over the weekend to send through to them. Sounded like they haven't heard of this or been reported by anyone else yet?
  15. Lovely. Nice to see a 'transitional' loadout too from the time when the missile variants and colours were being changed over 👍🏿 Have something similar planned in 1/72 but low viz