Dave1973

The barrel fits one way, as academy made it! Dont post on my builds any more as you berated my builds on scale model forum, and now youre picking fault with the ones on here. I never asked anyone to critique the accuracy of my models, I never asked someone to point out that academy, who made the kit are wrong And i certainly dont expect you to berate me for NOT FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS YOURE A RUDE AND DISGUSTING INDIVIDUAL,

Have you used it? I think youll find it DOESNT shrink, hence why i stated that. Mind you i guess flory and ISM mist be wrong too!

I ise the stuff that comes in the kit, so im not going for perfection, i enjoy my modelling without worrying if things are perfect!I think if people ask for critisim, thats fine, but i dont really care if someone thinks my antennas are the wrong thickness. Write to academy rather than berate my builds!

Removed.

Ive got this kit, its on the bench right now, im doing mine in UN white, but a What If police style would be very cool!!

I use an ultrasonic cleaner for my airbrushes, but the brushes are always fairly clean. After every use, i backwash and scub out with water, then with IPA, then with a little thinners. Every week, or if im not using them for a good few days thy go in the ultrasonic. Ive seen folk dump everything in, partial striped, but for me thats a no no. I strip the brushes, remove the tip end, back end, and air valve before putting the body in. My fluid is windex. Works perfect, and cleans up any residue i missed over the week I think the misnomer is that an ultrasonic cleaner will fix the problems of lazy or undisciplined users. Airbrushes are fine precision equipment, clean them thoroughly after every use, and they will work. Leave the paint to dry in them and you ought to go back to brushes!

Deleted, no more tips from me!

Really nice! Ive got this kit in my stash to build, but am not looking forward to the paint scheme. Youve nailed it, so im inspired to have a crack!

Im new to modelling, and i love doing armour and AFVs mainly because my screw ups are easily hidden! However, inevitably, ive had to begin the figures, and im not even going to show you the first attempts!! So dire, they cause my little boy nightmares! But im an info and technique hog, and will happily spend hours watching and rewatching techniques to get better. Now my figures arent so horrid, but theyre far from being anywhere close to good. But theyre a lot lot better. My technique is: If head attached, then youll do the face first and then mask up, if unattached then better! I apply some ivory with a 10/0 brush to the eye sockets, doesnt matter if you go outside the lines like! Next i use some dark brown, never black, as thats too stark, and place the iris in, use a cocktail stick sharpened for this, as its pinpoint then. Now i switch to a deep mahogany red, and paint the skin, leaving the eyes, and try to get up close to shape the eye. Leave this to dry, and now you need to use thin coats watered down to acheive the right shading. Next is europe sand colour, as this is great for shadowed skintone. I apply this in four or five coats, missing out the sides of the nose on the last three, and under the chin as well. Next comes skintone, which is lighter, again watered down or use glaze medium. Apply this to the more raised areas, the glaze medium will help,it to blend in with the previous colours. Try to do three coats to acheive the right shade, rather than one coat. Lastlly i use a drop of highlight skintone in the previous mix, and apply this to the cheekbone rea, bridge of nose, brow. Hope this helps.

Nice! I like snow wintery scenes!

Ive tried using wooden shelves, which are Ok, but obviously limited to size. I tried that oasis stuff, but thats like pulling teeth!! So this week, i managed to finish off my standard size mould for bases, which gives a textired upper, and smooth sides to paint. I just fill it with resin, and pull it out, and make the base on that. Seems so much easier for me, and i dont have to keep buying frames, shelves and the like. The bases are not as thick, and more rounded edges gives a better finish for me.

To make it quick and easy to read rather than watching the vids, Hairspray works and a semi sticky paint adhesive. You spray the base colour, lets say a rusty red. Then once its nice and cured, you get the cheapest hairspray and give it a good coat all over, not wet, just dust it. Then do that another couple of times, as it dries (2 or 3 minutes) Now, paint on the top coat colour. Leave to dry. Depending on how much hairspray you used will depend on the result of the next part. Take a brush and load with water. Wash the area you ant to begin chipping, scratching and wearing with the brush, allow to soak in a little and continue to brush in the direction of chips and scratches, You will notice the topcoat begins to strip away, and tends to be dependant on brush type so choose carefully. Once you get the desired effect, stop, and allow to dry. Now apply a clear coat. Job done Hairspray is not as precise however as the chipping and scratches effects you can buy, why i dont know, but it tends to be more hit and miss, and less user friendly.

The grades are their sheer strength and softness, the softer the easier to remove parts, but the less stability. The stiffer, the harder to remove parts, but is a longer lasting mould. I used to use standard RTV moulding rubber for my moulds, but it gets expensive, especially making moulds of parts all the time. I now use Thorassic RTV which is essentially the same, but much stiffer consistency, the softness sheer strength is the same as soft. However, you mix it, and apply it as a thick coat over the part, then once set, use fibreglass resin and chopped matt to make a casing. Works out much cheaper, and is way easier to make complex parts and difficult mouldings As for airbubbles, first thing is your mixing technique. Slow down, and mix thoroughly, slowly folding the mix rather than whisking it. This prevents air being integrated in the mix. I know its a pain but ALWAYS go slow, and let the mix sit for a few minutes. Pot life should be a good twenty minutes so no fear. Then the next problem is pour technique. Dont jist pour it in, choose the lowest point, and slowly pour in that area, allowing the silicone to build slowly. This helps,prevent air ingress. If you still have problems, and cant get rid of the bubbles, you can buy a fixer which will help release them. But in my experience, proper technique will eradicate that

Thanks paul. I think the back end of the Ultra is certainly different, and would require almost everything from the rear of the evo/infi brushes to upgrade, and as you say not cost effective. The front cap is only £18 for the standard evo, fineline kit, and fits perfectly. Works exceptionally well. I guess they dont want to advertise that fact to encourage buyers up to the Evolution range. My point is, if money is tight and you want a decent airbrush, the Ultra is a great buy, because the body is in effect an Evolution, and those parts will fit later. Going the Iwata (sic) neo route at the same cost is personally not a good choice. Mainly because its Not an iwata!