Beazer Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 Late to this build but I was bored and wanted to keep the mojo going so here we go. I already have a Kanonvogel Variant in my display case and wanted to build a "Pichiatello". Wanted more colour than the normal small yellow band and savoy cross so I was able to find White 18's markings from Eaglecal decals. Its the same basic scheme however the nose and prop are all yellow and the 18 is also on the landing gear. I'll be using the Italeri B-2 Kit which has lots of PE goodies and adding a resin rear gun, Italian Bombs, and hopefully fitting resin exhaust meant for the hasegawa offerings. https://www.ultracast.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=EC48_144 "White 18" 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Better late than never and welcome aboard. The cockpit looks to be nicely fitted out and the Italeri kits seem to be a popular choice. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) This is another superb model done by a person I do not know but its a great shot to emphasize how the canopy is supposed to look. Canopy will be next, one issue I find is that all the kits have the canopy as all supports are molded for the outside to mask, when on the stuka there are almost more to mask from the inside. Have to do some creative thinking to get the illusion correct. Edited February 10, 2020 by Beazer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) Why does Italeri have to make this so complicated. Its bad enough you can never get the cockpit to fit right without issue, oh and then the small little PE that’s supposed to represent a back support for the gunner always snaps or just doesn’t fit. Cant really build the front without building the engine. Then once you do you have a million fiddly joins which always somehow something somewhere will pop out or be out of sync with the others creating a big ole gap. Seems like they could have had a little more forward planning. The kits decent don’t get me wrong but some things are just unnecessary. Shes all closed up and now begins the process of fixing dumb stuff. The landing gear needs to have materiel removed (buzz sirens) because this Italian version did not include them on their B2s. Also need to plan or figure out if I could weather this sucker a lot. I haven’t seen much in the ways of exposed metal like I was hoping to do. Edited February 10, 2020 by Beazer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 Ready for the first coat of the internal supports for the canopy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 On 2/10/2020 at 7:48 PM, Beazer said: Cant really build the front without building the engine. Then once you do you have a million fiddly joins which always somehow something somewhere will pop out or be out of sync with the others creating a big ole gap. @Beazer I understand your frustration. For my build, the Italeri D-5, my first decision was to leave out the engine. I then made an adaptor to replace the firewall so I can l fit the nose directly to the fuselage. The prop mounts to the nose only. This decision was easy to make because I reshaped the nose considerably. 22 hours ago, Beazer said: Ready for the first coat of the internal supports for the canopy. I am very interested in how your canopy solution turns out. I was planning a more aggressive action and sand off the offending framing. The nervousness with my approach is not so much getting the canopy pristine again (it needs work anyway) or the internal framing, but rather, cracking such a brittle moulding. Your build looks good and is coming together rapidly. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 16 hours ago, Ray_W said: @Beazer I understand your frustration. For my build, the Italeri D-5, my first decision was to leave out the engine. I then made an adaptor to replace the firewall so I can l fit the nose directly to the fuselage. The prop mounts to the nose only. This decision was easy to make because I reshaped the nose considerably. I am very interested in how your canopy solution turns out. I was planning a more aggressive action and sand off the offending framing. The nervousness with my approach is not so much getting the canopy pristine again (it needs work anyway) or the internal framing, but rather, cracking such a brittle moulding. Your build looks good and is coming together rapidly. Ray Yes, I made a G without the engine as well. Used plasticard to shore everything up and it turned out alright. Even touching clear parts frightens me althoughI wonder if it would look better if I had masked it off from the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 Rlm 70 coat. Discovered that the prop should have been first done with 71 and then 70 particularly since I want to do some chipping. Need to do some sanding next and then priming. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 Basically spent all weekend prepping and priming for paint. The cockpit glass left huge gaps so there was that to contend with. Hacked off the airfix exhausts and will be putting on some resin ones that fit a Hasegawa kit. Going to seal up the yellow and detail the radiator and some engine detail that can be seen. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Great progress and I specially like your cockpit 3 hours ago, Beazer said: Hacked off the airfix exhausts and will be putting on some resin ones that fit a Hasegawa kit. Going to seal up the yellow and detail the radiator and some engine detail that can be seen. With all these effort, why not do something about the spinner which is way out of shape You can read more about it here. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235036731-which-is-best-airfix-or-italeri-ju87-b2-148/ Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 18 minutes ago, Basilisk said: Great progress and I specially like your cockpit With all these effort, why not do something about the spinner which is way out of shape You can read more about it here. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235036731-which-is-best-airfix-or-italeri-ju87-b2-148/ Cheers, Peter To be honest I was hoping for a quick build inline with my second hurricane. I forgot what a pain this kit can be after building a G2 last year. All the outer edges of the yellow paint have cracked after sealing with my semi gloss so now I have to fix that. Fortunately it somehow didn’t affect anywhere else but on the extreme outer edge so I can still mask and sand that crap back, also did the same thing to my hurricane. Paint was dry, no chemicals so I can’t explain it except perhaps a temperature change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 18, 2020 Author Share Posted February 18, 2020 Yellow went on fine then in an instant when I go to seal it, half of it crazes. At least the prop was ok. Now I get to fix this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Ouch, but to deal with the unforeseen is a big part of making models Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 20, 2020 Author Share Posted February 20, 2020 RLM 65 on however not a great finish, thats ok since I like them dirty. The decal instructions show the paint callouts for the bottom of the wheel wells to be blue as well and I thought that they were always the rlm 70/71 camo. Am I wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 21, 2020 Author Share Posted February 21, 2020 Made some good progress today. Finsihed masking and sprayed the main fuselage colours. Tommorow its some well deserved skiing and the big reveal. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 Starting to look pretty sexy. If only I had remembered to spray the cross on the rudder. Hopefully the decals won’t be too thin to make me regret it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 So I decided to brave using the tamiya rattlecans once more thinking this had sealed well and I should be OK as it had worked on my hurricane. Big fricken nope. It alligatored instantly. After some research it seems that the Vallejo blues and yellows dont like the tamiya because its too "hot". So this pretty much happened. That easy to wipe clean. So now I have this POS sitting here staring at me and I was 90% done. All I had was the weathering and decals left, oh and the MG15. So now the question is, how do I save this? Im gonna have to stick it in super clean or maybe brake fluid even but I really dont want it to affect the cockpit and bonds of the model. I just want the outside dealt with. Any tips aside from taking this dive bomber out for some true 2nd story target practice on the firepit? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 What's the top surface look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beazer Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 24 minutes ago, Ray_W said: What's the top surface look like? Not as bad but it’s noticeable. Did some reading and I’m going to try something that I can apply directly on the surface so I might be able to salvage this build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray_W Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Good option. I'd be keeping that cockpit out of it. Just work with the surfaces. Even if you have to temporarily remove things like dive brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basilisk Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Sorry to hear that this model is fighting you all the way But I hope you can save it. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 Have you tired Isopol thinner. Every time I use it on acrylic paint it seems to strip it. I've done it by mistake thinking I was using white spirits and had my paint stripped by it. Nothing worse than getting to your point in the build and having this happen. It's happened to me. Don't use acetone it melts the plastic. I think you can guess how I know. Good luck with it an tough it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 On 2/28/2020 at 12:09 PM, Greg Law said: Don't use acetone it melts the plastic. I think you can guess how I know. Hi Greg, I found that out the hard way too! Nothing like real life disasters to learn a lesson and never forget it! JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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