Mpfiend Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Very nice tidy progress. Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Thanks Keith. I have been following your Mercedes build and am in awe. I'm planning on lifting the home-made bolt idea that you and Codger have been using when it comes time to fitting the body. I am making some progress on the front axle. The front leaf springs have a very tight fit into the front axle. With some sanding down of the plastic stopper and the top bracket I am getting everything to fit. While a few steps ahead, I'm already starting to puzzle over how to make sure the front and rear axles are level with each other. For now I'm hopping Pocher got the leaf spring angle right in the instructions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Nice work so far on getting the engine going and the frame square. Do you have the Paul Koo DVD for the Bugatti? If not you will be better served with it than following the Pocher instructions which are not much better than an exploded parts diagram. One last point, I think you might have your Mercedes builds mixed up; it's my Mercedes build that is using the 2mm threaded rod for the fitting of the body thanks to Codger. As Codger so expertly pointed out, it makes life much easier with the constant on and off of the body while fitting everything. As I mentioned out in my thread yesterday, I am headed over to Paul Koo's house this morning and this is one of the things I plan on showing him. Who knows it might find its way into one of his DVD's as a tip in fitting the body. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Oops sorry for the mix up! Your Mercedes build has been incredible too. It's great to see all these builds happening at once. I'm picking up ideas by reading through and following. Yes I have the Paul Koo DVD. It has been incredibly helpful - I'm not sure how people were able to build these kits without the DVD or internet forums like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 No problem, it's really Codger who deserves all the credit for the idea, I just modified it to work with the roadster body because of how it is attached to the frame. Not all cars attach the same way but, the premise is sound. If you can attach a 2mm piece of threaded rod as a stud and just unscrew a threaded nut from a rod rather than screwing and unscrewing a screw or bolt from plastic it will be much easier and you will avoid a potential problem at the end of the build when go to attach the body or fender and find that there just isn't enough plastic left for the screw to bite on. Tip of the month award- goes to Codger! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 No problem, it's really Codger who deserves all the credit for the idea, I just modified it to work with the roadster body because of how it is attached to the frame. Not all cars attach the same way but, the premise is sound. If you can attach a 2mm piece of threaded rod as a stud and just unscrew a threaded nut from a rod rather than screwing and unscrewing a screw or bolt from plastic it will be much easier and you will avoid a potential problem at the end of the build when go to attach the body or fender and find that there just isn't enough plastic left for the screw to bite on. Tip of the month award- goes to Codger! Wayne This proves I'm not just a pretty face... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Made some more progress. The front axle is assembled. I must admit that the quality of materials in the old Pocher kits is unbelievable. The plating on the front axle is really well done. It's a shame that newer kits like the Aventador don't have these types of beautiful parts... I have attached the front axle to frame. The next step is getting everything level. I think the left and right leaf springs need some fiddling to get lined up evenly; and then I'll have to deal with the front and back axles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Really nice progress. I have agree with you about the parts quality. The older kits definitely have the edge. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 RJFK, Give us more! We need Bugatti progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Where have these Pocherites gone to??? More updates please... Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Where have these Pocherites gone to??? More updates please... Roy. I hope these have not joined the countless Pochers, half-started then carted up to the attic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I hope these have not joined the countless Pochers, half-started then carted up to the attic... Well, if that (sadly) is the case, I suppose I could be forced into taking the kits on....... Seriously - Updates please! Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Better start checking eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Not to worry, the Bugatti is no where near ebay! Progress has been a little slow over the last few weeks on account of some end of summer travel. Also I unfortunately discovered how frail the Pocher PE parts are. One bend is fine, but any adjustments after that snap the part and lead to a crash course in soldering. In case you are wondering use at least a 40 watt iron, below that it doesn't seem to warm the part/solder and instead scorches your work area! The "magic arms" frame with alligator clips and adjustable arms is a must too along with thin solder with a rosin core. Spare yourself the trial & error I went through... I will write a more thorough update later. So far I have the engine installed and am pondering how to ensure the front and rear axles are level. I don't want to get to the body stage and discover my 1930s era car looks like a hot rod/low rider! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 I will write a more thorough update later. So far I have the engine installed and am pondering how to ensure the front and rear axles are level. I don't want to get to the body stage and discover my 1930s era car looks like a hot rod/low rider! Great to have you back! I just explained how I got the ride height correct in the last page or two of my Rolls thread. You'll need the fenders and wheels on and a decent flat surface to check on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 OK great I will have to bookmark that part of your build for future reference! Right now I'm struggling with the steering arm. The plated rod has two threaded ends where two eyelet-like parts are supposed to screw on. I think the plating is preventing me from screwing the parts on. I need to figure out how to thread the rod. The rod measures 3mm wide but I'm not sure if that is die I need. Any suggestions for how to handle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Sounds like a 3 mm die if the diameter is 3 mm. Every time I've measured the rod with the micrometer and purchase a die based on that measurement it has been correct. Like I mentioned on my thread I just had to order two micro sized dies to clean up some MMC aftermarket parts threads; they are 1.2 mm and 1.4 mm which along with the indispensable 2 mm die are what I've had to get so far. Having the correct size die and in some cases tap really pay off when building these big scale cars that basically screw and bolt together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 That is good to know. My 3mm measurement came from the micrometer. I have the die on order so will see if that takes care of the issue. I have the 2mm already but haven't had to use it yet. In the meantime I will start working on the firewall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I know the threaded rod on a lot of the Pocher's is 2mm so it seems to be the most common. Occasionally you see other sizes but not often. The reason I had to get the much smaller 1.2 mm and 1.4 mm is because most of the interior jewelry that Model Motor Cars sells usually has a small mounting pin or stud and the are threaded. The only problem is they don't supply nuts for everything and if you want to add the nut the threads need to be cleaned up. They weren't too expensive at around $10 each from China; I just hope they work. It's nice to see a Bugatti being built and its the one car I've never owned of the Pochers so it's a bit of treat watching yours come together. Keep up the good work and try not to keep us in suspense on future updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 The 3mm die is on order and should be here in a few days. Hopefully that takes care of my issue. I picked up some Model Motor Car parts for the interior, I should take a look and see how those are mounted as you suggested. While I wait for the die, I've started work on the fire wall. I'm painting and fitting everything now. I'll post pics once I've made more progress. A word of warning to other builders out there - the black parts on tree 15 are quite brittle. Normally the black plastic in the Bugatti is very hard and known to break screws easily. Tree 15 parts are the opposite. Be very gentle as screws and pressure crack the parts easily. Fortunately they seem to be repairable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 I don't know which parts are on tree 15 but, if they take screws you might consider the melting method. Get the screw started and then use a soldering iron and hold it on the screw head and when it heats up enough gently press the screw in place. When it cools off you will have a threaded hole that is able to be used to remove the screw and put back in without breaking the plastic. This works for both hard and brittle plastic if you run into more pieces that are difficult to put screws into. You can try it on a piece of scrap plastic by drilling a hole the size of the screw and use that for practice to see how hot and how much pressure is needed before actually doing it on the kit part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks the melting method did the trick! I had used it before for screws that were open on the other side. This is the first I tried on close holes and it worked. Also the 3mm die was able to scrap off enough plating to get the steering arm. assembled. I ended up cutting some extra threads on one end and scratching it up a little but it will not be noticeable in the final model. This being a pocher kit, as soon as I fixed one problem a new one popped up. It seems like I don't have enough torque from the steering rod to actually translate to turning the wheels. I need to take apart the steering gears and see if there is some slop to clean up. Could be another application of the telson tape that Codger recommended previously for the rear differential. After that I will look at the wheels to see if I need to loosen up some of nuts or grease any metal to metal contacts. Out of curiosity has anyone successfully got the brake system to work on a pocher classic? I am looking ahead and wondering if I should attempt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Out of curiosity has anyone successfully got the brake system to work on a pocher classic? I am looking ahead and wondering if I should attempt it. I vote 'NO'. Surely a lot of effort can improve them but to what end? Do you really want to pull wheels and amaze friends by pushing pedals and watching shoes move? The friction is just too high, leverage too poor and parts not stout enough. The less tampering with a beautifully finished Pocher, the longer it lasts... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I'm glad to hear the melting method worked well for you. On the Mercedes the only part of the brakes that I see even connected to work, is the parking brake, that is connected the the handle. For me, the two biggest problems on the chassis were the steering box and linkage as well as the wheels and tires. One of the most common issues is the wheels sitting straight and trying to turn them with the wheel. From what I've been told the wheels, on the Mercedes, are supposed to have a bit of toe in, pointing at a slight angle in toward each other. The whole steering mechanism from the steering wheel to the tie rods is weak given the weight of the model and just doesn't work properly. I've also found that the wheels and tires are somewhat floppy and have a lot of play in them between the tire, wheel and brake drum when screwed onto the axle hub. Some of these I will look closer at when I get toward the end but, the steering wheel turning the wheels any appreciable amount isn't one of them. The shaft and gearbox are just too lightweight. Sometimes I think these kits are not so much something to be built but, challenges to overcome. Good luck as you move forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 I think I will take a pass on the brakes. Codger you summed it up. It would be a massive undertaking to get all those brake parts to work. I am tinkering with the steering and think weight is definitely the issue. The steering staft and gears will move the steering arm on its own but not when attached to the front wheels. I may try to grease the rods holding the front wheels to the front axle and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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