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Found 12 results

  1. Stransky Kits is working on a 1/144th family of Piper L-4 Grasshopper Source: https://fr-fr.facebook.com/stransky.kits/posts/1019222051560279 V.P.
  2. Sports Plane (03835) 1:32 Carrera Revell The Piper PA-18 Super Cub was developed after WWII as a single-engined civilian aircraft, or “sports Plane” as it is sometimes referred to, especially on the front of model boxes. It was a development of the Cub line of aircraft, but was substantially different in that it was more powerful and a more “professional” type of aircraft, having flaps, twin fuel-tanks and a 150hp Lycoming engine as standard, although over the intervening years many have been re-engined with other power-plants, some more powerful, some not. Over 10,000 have been made, and they have seen use all over the world, with a particular following amongst bush pilots, who value its slow-speed handling, incredibly short take-off run and its simple mechanical make-up that makes it relatively easy to repair due to its tubular framework with doped canvas outer skin, and readily available spares. As well as the civilian operators, a number of military users have had them on charge over the years, with various designations beginning with L-18. The Civilian variant usually stuck with PA-18 and used various numbers in relation to the engine fitted at the factory, but as already mentioned there have been many alternatives used over the years. One inventive individual even converted the type to a biplane in order to improve its high-altitude handling so that it could be better used in extremely isolated mountainous regions. The Kit This is a re-release of the 2007 tooling from Revell as a special “Builder’s Choice” boxing, and it has been tricked out in a handsome set of German decals, including the colours of the modern German flag on the tailfin. It arrives in a shallow end-opening box with a painting of the aircraft in flight on the front, and inside are nine sprues of various sizes in white styrene, two in clear that were still tenuously linked together in my box, the instruction booklet and the decal sheet in between the safety sheet, which seems to have been printed on glossy paper this time. It’s a nicely detailed kit in this scale, although it does have a few features of its era, such as the occasional sink mark and ejector-pin here and there, but it’s nothing to be overly concerned about unless you have a low panic threshold. Construction begins with the cockpit in a move that won’t surprise many modellers. The floor is quite substantially curved, as it follows the line of the fuselage underside, which it follows once completed. The two sidewalls have curved lower edges too as you’d expect, and each one has a short painting guide, which also points out some decals that are applied at the same time. The floor has a few ejector-pin marks to be hidden away before it is detailed with a number of controls, including the linked control columns, with the two seats and their moulded-in seatbelts added to raised parts of the floor. The belts are well-moulded, and are individually arranged on the seats, so should look good under some carefully-applied paint. The fuselage halves are then shown for painting of their interior, with a black lip around the edges of the windows at the rear. The cockpit is built up in a basket-like shape starting with the cockpit sides, with two rectangular frames tying the sides together along with a rear bulkhead, then the cockpit floor is placed inside and joined by the rear parcel shelf and the two-part structure that forms the head-liner over the shelf. Bracing rods are added across the roof and in a V-shape down the windscreen, locking into the two-part instrument panel, which has a decal for its dials. A brief interlude has you making the clear centre-panel of the upper wing spar by slipping two aerofoil-shapes over the fully clear part without glue, then setting it aside while you close up the fuselage around the cockpit, adding rear quarterlights from the inside as you go, and closing over the front with a firewall aft of the engine bay. With the glue cured on the fuselage, the upper centre wing is installed along with the rest of the glazing, with a curved windscreen and optional straight side windows, where your choice of glue will be important so you don’t fog the wide expanses of clear styrene. A section of the cockpit floor is added below, and the N-shaped engine mounts are glued to the firewall, with two scrap diagrams showing their orientation once installed. The Lycoming engine is a flat-four, with all cylinders depicted along with the various rods, housings and a long drive-shaft passing through it. Plenty of piping is woven around the block for air and exhaust pathways, with a final diagram showing the completed unit before it is bracketed by two L-shaped panels that have the cylinder head tops moulded into them. The engine fits neatly to the mounts, and the panelling is added around it, taking care to ensure that the circular drive-shaft opening in the front cowling is centred on the shaft itself. There’s another scrap diagram to assist you with the final arrangement here too. The wings are straight with round tips, and each one has a separate aileron and flap added as the top and bottom halves are joined, with small lollipop tip-lights also fitted into channels as you go. The port wing has a landing light cut from the leading edge that is fitted with a contoured clear part and a representation of the twin lenses within the wing. The completed wings slide onto the clear centre wing section, which has a vertical spar along its length to counter the brittle nature of thin clear styrene that we all know and loathe. There is a slot within the wing for the two to mate, and it would be an idea to consider using epoxy resin to glue the wings with, as it definitely won’t create any bloom in the clear part, which could conceivably creep into the centre section that we wish to remain clear. Each wing has a V-shaped support with another inverted trestle-shaped added at approximately half way. All the attachment points are already laid out on the wing and elsewhere, and there is just a short length of wire needed to link the ailerons to the controls within the wing. Wire, cord or stretched sprue would do the trick here. The landing gear is fixed, and is mounted on a tubular frame with aerodynamic fairings and fabric between the triangular interstices, and the latter is where you’ll find a few ejector-pin marks to fill. These and the extended X-shaped axles are fitted into sockets under the fuselage, then the wheels are made up. There are two sets of wheels of two parts each, so choose the correct type, which have circumferential tread on each half thanks to some stepping of the mould surface. They have their hubs added-in, with brake detail on the inner surface, to be slotted over the axles once complete. Oddly, a pair of small holes are filled in the rear of the fuselage, appearing to be somewhat out of sequence, but in fact it is the opening shot of the tail construction. The rudder is separate and has a pair of small clear lights fitted, one each top and rear, then it is glued to the fin along with the elevators, which need another few short lengths of control lines adding, as per the drawings. The elevators are moulded as one piece per side, and fit to the fuselage sides on three pins each, in much the same manner as the real ones. The tail wheel is a short, sprung strut with a diminutive wheel on a two-part yoke, which fits into a slot in the underside of the tail. To finish off the build, the starboard side of the cockpit has its clamshell door added in either open or closed positions, with the glazed half having sliding windows moulded-in, and a handle fixed to the long edge of the trapezoid lower door. The engine cowlings can also be fitted open or closed, but the two-bladed prop and spinner are generally required for flying. A pair of short antennae made from stretched sprue are applied to the upper wing over the cockpit, with some brief instructions showing you how to stretch your own sprue if you’re unsure. Markings There is only one set of markings in this special boxing, and it’s for an attractive silver-doped airframe with a black nose and wing leading edges and a white lightning flash down the sides, with a colourful German flag on the tail fin. The tail code is kind of appropriate too. From the box you can build this airframe: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion After dealing with a few ejector-pin marks here and there, the model should build up relatively swiftly into a classic of a design that’s wearing some handsome markings. Highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  3. AirCast Resin has released 1/72nd Piper Tomahawk resin kits Sources: https://www.facebook.com/AirCastResin/posts/334481367446136 https://www.facebook.com/AirCastResin/posts/384750345752571 https://www.facebook.com/pg/AirCastResin/photos/?tab=album&album_id=334481307446142 - ref. ACR72006 - Piper Tomahawk - ref. ACR72007 - Piper Tomahawk ref. ACR72008 - Piper Tomahawk V.P.
  4. In 1984, I was assigned to the 6512th Test Sq at Edwards, also referred to as Test Ops. Test Ops provided most of the test support functions at Edwards: safety chase, photo chase, and conducted what one would call “cats ‘n’ dogs” test programs – test programs too small to warrant a dedicated Combined Test Force. I guess you could call this one of the dogs… I don’t remember all of the details (I suppose I could Google it), but apparently political pressure forced an evaluation of the turbine powered version of the P-51 Mustang. To be fair, it kind of looked like a Mustang, but beyond that it was pretty much an all new aircraft. It started with proposals from Cavalier Corp for a counter-insurgency (COIN) platform and garnered political support as an adjunct to the A-10. Cavalier eventually folded but the concept wouldn’t go away and, somehow, Piper was left holding the bag with the model PA-48 Enforcer. A Test Ops pilot and his trusty engineer (me - a test pilot once quipped at me "Engineers are great, everybody should have one!") were sent to the Piper facility at Lakeland Florida to evaluate Piper's Enforcer test program prior to the aircraft coming out to Edwards for evaluation. Without further comment, this is some of what we saw… Ship #1, N481PE Ship #2, N482PE In the Edwards boneyard in 1990 Thanks for looking Sven
  5. Aeropoxy next 1/72nd resin kit will be a Piper PA-25-235 Pawnee - ref. ? Sources: https://aeropoxy.wordpress.com/2014/11/26/piper-pa-25-235-pawnee/ https://www.facebook.com/121276231237463/photos/a.122285194469900.12687.121276231237463/860569227308156/?type=1&theater V.P.
  6. Amodel is to release in 2016 a 1/72nd Piper Jet Pa-47 kit - ref.72343 Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234997175-amodel-new-172nd-1144th-kits-in-2016-update/ V.P.
  7. Piper L-4J Grasshopper, pics thanks to Mike.
  8. Lift Here is to release in August 2017 a 1/72nd Piper PA-38 Tomahawk resin kit - ref. LHM040 Source: https://www.aviationmegastore.com/piper-tomahawk-expected-august-2017-lhm040-lift-here-decals-lhm040-aircraft-scale-modelling/product/?action=prodinfo&art=143729 V.P.
  9. Hi all, I acquired recently one specimen of these. It seems to be a reasonably good kit, with lots of potencial for conversion, but I also read some bad things about it although not indicating the potencial problems. Is there anybody out there with informed opinions on the subject? Thanks, Carlos
  10. Aeo Modell has released a revised edition of its 1/72nd resin Navajo kit, the Piper PA-31P -ref. 737011 Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/piper-pa31p-pressurised-navajo-revised-kit-03-737011-aero-modell-4027378737112-scale-modelling/product/?shopid=LH355797e0b84d6433581ac936d6&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=117778 V.P.
  11. Hello everyone, I have this buddy with a connection [by some lengths] to this aircraft: The challenge is to find a 72nd scale kit and build it as such. We know of a Gremlin Models release from some time ago but haven't come much further trying to locate one. Are there any other kits out there of the PA-42, whatever the scale and medium? Any input would be much appreciated. Cheers, Niki
  12. I started this some 25 years ago as 16YO glued the wings together and for some odd reason, cant remember why, hacked off the nose forward of the windscreen and that was as far as it went. Its been sitting in my parents garden shed ever since. Seeing Tripods Warrior has given me some inspiration. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234936765-fun-with-cherokees/ Now work has restarted the dust, dead spiders n eggs have been cleaned off and its going to become a Cherokee 140, this one to be precise:- Stephen Powney/www.abpic.co.uk I owned a share in it over 10 years ago to hours build and clocked up over 100 hours in it, Built in 1968 and great fun to fly, cheap too I think I managed to get the hourly cost down to £25 if I flew it very carefully at min drag speed around 70kts clean and leaned the mixture, great for loitering around South Lancashire & Winter Hill on a sunny weekday evening after work, clocking them hours up towards a commercial licence. For a conversion to from Arrow to Cherokee I think I need to make or mod the following. New nose - scratch built New spinner - scratch built (prop blades from kit, might need to shorten them though) Shorter wings Shorter stabilator Block up the rear windows new undercarriage & spats - scratch built (kit wheels) Remove the dorsal fin from the tail Wings & stabilator was shortened, Airfix have made this easy to cut in the right place from the surface detail just remove the bit between the ailerons and wing tip fairing, similar for the stabilator remove the bit between the anti-servo tab and the tip fairing. a new nose is to be built, must have had a premonition of this when I hacked off the old one all those years ago. I started by drawing out the new shape cowl in 1:24 scale from photos and drawings the scanning it and rescaling to 1:72 then printing several copies onto a sticker that was placed on 2 laminated sheets off 1mm plasticard. The holes for the 3 air intakes were cut out first by drilling small holes then fileing the rest to shape, this I had some trouble with as even my needle files were too big and needed a re think. Just when I was on the verge of considering crash moulding the basic shape out of thinner plastic, I was in Affinity Models in Stoke, and hey presto micro needle files £8 for a set of 10!. So yesterday was spent making the cowl. With the holes cut out the main shape was cut, filed and sanded from the sheet. A 4mm disc was cut from 0.5mm card for the crank wheel with the starter motor pin from 0.5mm plastic rod. the whole thing was laminated onto another piece of 0.5mm card and the baffles fitted in the engine cooling holes. The landing light was made by thinning off the end of a length of tube with a file and sand paper then fitting into it piece of rod with the end smoothed off and rounded, then cut to the appropriate length (0.5mm) and fitted in the air filter recess. Might need to do a little repair on the crank wheel The undercarriage bays were filled in by thin layers of filler leaving each one to set before the next. The rear windows were also filled in, The windows were cut from the main 3 window transparency part and used as a backing for the filler. The storey so far :- Thanks for looking Mark
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