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ICM Acrylic Paint Sets ICM via H G Hannants Ltd In 2021 ICM released their own Acrylic Paint range, and soon after began offering boxed sets that matched with their recent kit releases, which is good marketing, and helpful to the modellers building these kits. The sets arrive in a cardboard box with six screw-capped bottles inside, each containing 12ml of paint. The bottles are clear Polypropylene, and are capped with cylindrical tops that have knurled sides, and a one-time security seal that you break on first opening. A label on the side gives you basic information about the colour and code, a little information regarding application in English and Ukrainian, plus a bar-code. As is sensible with a new range of paints, we undertook some testing of the first issues to establish whether the paint was good for brushing and airbrushing, and what sort of finish you can achieve with their products. They have released many sets since then, and so far we’ve been reviewing them separately, which is not only time intensive for us, but also means that they’ll be scattered throughout the Tools & Paint Review area, due to the time between releases and the volume of reviews that we post. To counter this, we’ll be putting all the sets in this thread going forward, so that anyone with an ICM kit can check the availability of a suitable set, and only have to read that they have a polypropylene bottle holding 12ml of paint the once. It should cut down on the instances of déjà vu too, which is always nice. Below you can see the results of our initial testing, complete with painted spoons that help to show off the smoothness and effect that light and shade has on the colours. The individual sets will be listed below these, with photos and a note of the colours included for your reference. Testing with Airbrush I used Ultimate Acrylic Thinners to dilute the paint to spray through my Gunze PS770 airbrush, which has a 0.18 needle chucked in. The paint dilutes well once it has been mixed thoroughly, and sprays well through my airbrush, which has a smaller than usual needle that is a good test of the finesse of the pigment grind of any brand, some of which don’t spray very well though anything less than a 0.3mm needle. There were no problems with blockages at all, and the coverage was excellent after my usual ad hoc dilution method, which was probably nowhere near the 40-60% thinners or water that’s suggested on the pack. The photo below shows the five actual colours sprayed out onto plastic spoons that have been prepared by buffing with a fine grade flexible sanding stick of the kind you use in the penultimate step before buffing to a shine. As the paint dried it obtained a highly matt finish with the exception of the Oily Steel paint, which is clearly semi-gloss. The Satin Varnish also worked very well diluted with water, sprayed over the spoons that were also partially taped up to perform two functions at once. The satin patina that resulted is exactly what was expected, and the tape lifted no paint at all, despite my best efforts to do so. Bear in mind that the spoons were prepped by a buff with a very fine sanding sponge to give them a chance of adhesion. There was very little damage to the cured paint from scraping my fingernails across the surface too. There were track-marks of course, but no lifting of paint at all. Testing with Paint Brush As usual I used a #6 synthetic filbert brush from AMMO, which has slightly curved edges to keep tramlines in the paint to a minimum. The colours brushed extremely well with one exception, which was the Oily Steel. It appeared to pull up when over-brushed during application, despite the surface remaining wet, which resulted in the appearance of tiny fibre-like structures in the paint that led to a gritty finish that was also translucent even after two coats, obtaining a rather lumpy opaqueness after three coats. The rest of the colours covered perfectly after two coats with minimal brush marks visible, which was thoroughly impressive to this long-lapsed brush painter, and some were almost completely opaque after one coat, save for the fact that they were laid down over a white surface. The undiluted Satin Varnish brushed out well over the matt surface of the brush painted spoon undersides, and I had to leave it until the next day to have my evening meal. The satin effect was excellent again, and the paint was tough enough to stand up to my fingernail test without lifting, although you can’t avoid leaving tracks across the surface due to the deposition of tiny particles from your fingernail on the surface. The Sets We’ve updated this review with all the sets that we’ve reviewed over the last couple of years (how time flies!), and will keep adding the new ones so that it becomes a comprehensive reference. WWII Marder I (3003) This set contains the following colours: 1060 Middle Stone, 1071 Camouflage Green, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1038 German Grey, 1027 Gun Metal, 1002 Matt Varnish B-26K Invader (3007) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1058 Tan Earth, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1002 Black, 1024 Silver, 2002 Satin Varnish OV-10A Bronco (3008) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1031 Warm Grey, 1032 Blue Grey, 1026 Oily Steel, 1002 Black, 2002 Satin Varnish Laffly (3009) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1042 Pale Sand, 1052 Hull Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1027 Gun Metal, 2001 Matt Varnish Basic Colours (3010) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1002 Black, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1004 Deep Red, 1005 Dark Blue, 1006 Deep Green The rear of the box shows the following: USAAF Pilots 1944-45 (1012) This set contains the following colours: 1002 Black, 1008 Deep Brown, 1052 Hull Red, 1068 Olive Green, 1044 Basic Skin Tone, 1059 Green Ochre American Civil War Union Infantry (3013) This set contains the following colours: 1037 Dark Grey, 1026 Oily Steel, 1075 Grey-Blue, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1017 Gold, 1043 Light Flesh German WWII Aviation (3014) This set contains the following colours: 1074 Pale Blue, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1070 German Field Grey, 1035 Grey-Green, 2002 Satin Varnish WWII Soviet Aviation (3016) This set contains the following colours: 1032 Blue Grey, 1033 Sky Grey, 1036 neutral Grey, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1071 Camouflage Green, 2003 Gloss varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Bundeswehr Vehicles & AFVs (3017) This set contains the following colours: 1026 Oily Steel, 1060 Middle Stone, 1072 US Dark Green, 1039 Rubber Black, 1052 Hull Red, 1073 4BO The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Royal Air Force (3018) This set contains the following colours: 1054 Chocolate, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1037 Dark Grey, 1032 Blue Grey, 1027 Gun Metal, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Cargo Trucks (3019) This set contains the following colours: 1046 Blood Red, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1066 grass Green, 1068 Olive Green, 1001 White, 2003 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Try Me (3020) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1002 Black, 1027 Gun Metal, 1073 4BO Green, 1011 Clear Red, 2004 Grey Primer The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Japanese Aviation (3021) This set contains the following colours: 1063 Green-Grey, 1023 Aluminium, 1025 Natural Steel, 1062 British Khaki, 1073 4BO Green, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Helicopter Pilots – Vietnam War (3023) This set contains the following colours: 1060 Middle Stone, 1062 British Khaki, 1002 Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1073 4BO Green, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWI US Infantry (3024) This set contains the following colours: 1059 Green Ochre, 1055 Deck Tan, 1061 Green Brown, 1050 Saddle Brown, 1008 Deep Brown, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Armed Forces of Ukraine (3025) This set contains the following colours: 1072 US Dark Green, 1035 Grey Green, 1041 Buff, 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1054 Chocolate, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: US Helicopters (3026) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1072 US Dark Green, 1001 White, 1007 Deep Red, 1027 Gun Metal, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Ghost of Kyiv (3027) This set contains the following colours: 1028 Offwhite, 1033 Sky Grey, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1037 Dark Grey, 1038 German Grey, 2002 Satin Varnish US Aviation 1980-90 (3028) This set contains the following colours: 1055 Deck Tan, 1056 Light Earth, 1039 Rubber Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1032 Blue Grey, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Ships of the Kriegsmarine (3029) This set contains the following colours: 1007 Deep Red, 1018 Brass, 1037 Dark Grey, 1056 Light Earth, 1027 Gun Metal, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: Civilians (3030) This set contains the following colours: 1005 Deep Purple, 1008 Deep Brown, 1009 Deep Green, 1030 Ivory, 1047 Matt Red, 1077 Dark Blue The rear of the box shows the following: Fire Trucks (3031) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1007 Deep Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1023 Aluminium, 1060 Middle Stone, 1012 Clear Blue The rear of the box shows the following: WWII German Tank Crew (3032) This set contains the following colours: 1024 Silver, 1004 intense Pink, 1002 Black, 1036 Neutral Grey, 1070 German Field Grey, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWII RAF Pilots (3033) This set contains the following colours: 1077 Dark Blue, 1075 Grey Blue, 1003 Deep Yellow, 1054 Chocolate, 1060 Middle Stone, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: American Civil War Confederate Infantry (3034) This set contains the following colours: 1075 Grey Blue, 1076 Deep Sky Blue, 1036 Neutral Grey, 1055 Deck Tan, 1020 Bronze, 2002 Satin varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Personal Protective Equipment (3035) This set contains the following colours: 1045 Medium, Orange, 1035 Grey Green, 1011 Clear Red, 1039 Rubber Black, 1015 Clear Yellow, 1024 Silver The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Aircraft Armament (3036) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1057 Ochre, 1037 Dark Grey, 1002 Black, 1072 US Dark Green, 1026 Oily Steel The rear of the box shows the following: WWII US Infantry (3037) This set contains the following colours: 1041 Buff, 1058 Tan Earth, 1031 Warm Grey, 1072 US Dark Green, 1008 Deep Brown, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Wehrmacht Trucks (3038) This set contains the following colours: 1038 German Grey, 1040 Beige, 1029 White Grey, 1052 Hull Red, 1072 US Dark green, 2003 Gloss varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Combat Vehicles Armed Forces of Ukraine (3040) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1011 Clear Red, 1027 Gun Metal, 1072 US Dark Green, 1039 Rubber Black, 1073 4BO Green The rear of the box shows the following: WWI British Infantry (3042) This set contains the following colours: 1018 Brass, 1059 Green Ochre, 1071 Camouflage Green, 1062 British Khaki, 1052 Hull Red, 2001 Matt Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Military Equipment Armed Forces of Ukraine (3039) This set contains the following colours: 1027 Gun Metal 1008 Deep Brown 1072 US Dark Green 1041 Buff 1002 Black 1073 4BO Green The rear of the box shows the following: Armed Forces of Ukraine (3041) This set contains the following colours: 1028 Off White 1072 US Dark Green 1058 Tan Earth 1062 British Khaki 1054 Chocolate 1031 Warm Grey The rear of the box shows the following: WWI & WWII Weapon & Equipment (3043) This set contains the following colours: 1025 Natural Steel 1027 Gun Metal 1035 Grey Green 1031 Warm Grey 1053 Leather Brown 1002 Black The rear of the box shows the following: WWI German Infantry (3044) This set contains the following colours: 1008 Deep Brown 1037 Dark Grey 1070 German Field Grey 1034 Dark Sea Grey 1038 German Grey 1072 US Dark Green The rear of the box shows the following: WWI French Infantry (3045) This set contains the following colours: 1075 Grey Blue 1076 Deep Sky Blue 1046 Blood Red 1055 Deck Tan 1008 Deep Brown 1002 Black The rear of the box shows the following: Luftwaffe Pilots (3046) This set contains the following colours: 1077 Dark Blue 1002 Black 1003 Deep Yellow 1054 Chocolate 1028 Off White 1024 Silver The rear of the box shows the following: WWII US Aviation (3047) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1001 White, 1068 Olive Green, 1002 Black, 1023 Aluminium, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: Wehrmacht Afrika Korps (3049) This set contains the following colours: 1059 Green Ochre, 1041 Buff, 1038 German Grey, 1058 Tan Earth, 1060 Middle Stone, 1061 Green Brown The rear of the box shows the following: WWII British Royal Navy Aviation (3050) This set contains the following colours: 1074 Pale Blue, 1069 Extra Dark Grey, 1033 Sky Grey, 1022 Burnt Tin, 1028 Off White, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWI US Vehicles (3051) This set contains the following colours: 1071 Camouflage Green, 1056 Light Earth, 1002 Black, 1060 Middle Stone, 1037 Dark Grey, 1051 Dark Rust The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Military Vehicles of Britain (3052) This set contains the following colours: 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1060 Middle Stone, 1061 Green Brown, 1028 Off White, 1071 Camouflage Green, 2002 Satin Varnish The rear of the box shows the following: WWII German U-Boats (3053) This set contains the following colours: 1033 Sky Grey, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 1037 Dark Grey, 1018 Brass, 1026 Oily Steel, 1011 Clear Red The rear of the box shows the following: US Cars 1930-40s (3048) This set contains the following colours: 1077 Dark Blue, 1009 Deep Green, 1007 Deep Red, 1031 Warm Grey, 1064 Lime Green, 1065 Interior Yellow Green The rear of the box shows the following: WWII British Infantry (3054) This set contains the following colours: 1069 Extra Dark Green, 1027 Gun Metal, 1062 British Khaki, 1059 Green Ochre, 1008 Deep Brown The rear of the box shows the following: Civil Aviation (3055) This set contains the following colours: 1001 White, 1077 Dark Blue, 1007 Deep Red, 1024 Silver, 1045 Medium Orange, 1034 Dark Sea Grey The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Japanese Pilots (3056) This set contains the following colours: 1050 Saddle Brown, 1026 Oily Steel, 1061 Green Brown, 1052 Hull Red, 1041 Buff, 1072 US Dark Green The rear of the box shows the following: Firefighters (3057) This set contains the following colours: 1059 Green Ochre, 1002 Black, 1038 German Grey, 1011 Clear Red, 1054 Chocolate, 2007 Green Primer The rear of the box shows the following: Humvee US Military Cars (3059) This set contains the following colours: 2005 Black Primer, 1056 Light Earth, 1052 Hull Red, 1072 US Dark Green, 1073 4B0 Green, 1038 German Grey The rear of the box shows the following: WWII Royal Navy (3060) This set contains the following colours: 1049 Medium Rust, 1034 Dark Sea Grey, 2004 Grey Primer, 1074 Pale Blue, 1037 Dark Grey, 1042 Pale Sand The rear of the box shows the following: Animals (3061) This set contains the following colours: 1039 Rubber Black, 2009 White Primer, 1043 Light Flesh, 1008 Deep Brown, 1006 Deep Orange, 1053 Leather Brown The rear of the box shows the following: Conclusion The paints were excellent through the airbrush with nothing in the way of drama during the testing process, including the metallics and varnish. The solid colours also brushed out very well, as did the varnishes. There is a little less paint in the bottles than some brands, but a shade more than others, so it’s about average. That is more than offset by the very reasonable price they’re asking for the set, even at RRP. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

WWII German Aircraft Armament (48408) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd During WWII, numerous weapons systems (as we call them now) were developed by both Allied and Axis forces, standardised for mass manufacture, and for ease of interoperability between types of aircraft in use at the time. These were adapted and improved over time in light of operational experience, finishing the war with a much more potent arsenal than it started with. The Kit This new set from ICM arrives in a shallow top-opening box with a captive lid on the lower tray, and inside are six sprues of grey styrene, a square decal sheet, and two instruction sheets, as one of the sub-sets has been released previously a few years ago. The set contains the following armaments: 8 x SC 50Jb bomb 4 x SC 250Ja Bomb 4 x SC 500J 8 x SD 50Stg 4 x SD 250Jb 4 x SD 500A 2 x F5 Torpedo with trailer Each bomb, regardless of size is made from two halves, and they have two fins moulded-in along the seamline, the other two a separate part that slots into the tail perpendicular to the others. The SC 50 and SD 50s have four tubular “screamers” attached to the fins, which create a terrifying whistling noise on the way down, with the same installation seen as an option on the 250kg bombs too, if they aren’t using the inter-fin supports that stabilise the rear. The SC 500J has four fin supports added, while the SD 500A has a circular ring supporting the fins. The SD 50Stg bombs have “daisy cutter” extended fuses moulded-in, but the SD 250Jb has an adapter ring and fuse extension as an optional fitment. The F5 Torpedo was developed for the Luftwaffe by the Kriegsmarine from an earlier Norwegian design, adding a break-off wooden H-tail that helped ensure a smoother insertion into the water, which at a little under a tonne was an important stage in its flight envelope. It was carried by several German bombers such as the Ju.88 and He.111, the latter being able to carry a pair on a palette covering the bomb bay doors, and even the Fw.190 could be configured to carry one under its belly. Two sprues of grey styrene each contain parts for a single torpedo, plus a trailer to transport it around the airfield. The trailer is made first, with six cross-members installed on a cruciform chassis and fleshed out with a set of tubular frames and sections of tread-plate on either side of where the torpedo will sit. A pair of wheels glue to the short ends of the crucifix, then the torpedo is built from two halves with a double row of blades on the screw and a pair of perpendicular fins at the rear. The break-off tail is made from two T-shaped end panels, with four vanes stretched between them. The wooden tail slots over the torpedo’s fins, and the finished weapon is lowered into the cradle running along the trailer’s direction of travel. Markings A chart on the rear of the bomb instructions gives colour choices in ICM codes, and location of the many stencils that were applied to bombs by their handlers to tell the different types from one another in the armoury, and whether they contain explosives. The Torpedoes have their own drawings for painting, and unlike the bombs, they have no stencils applied. Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion These well-detailed bombs and torpedoes are easy to build from a material we are all familiar with, and provide copious armaments for your WWII German projects without breaking the bank. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

ICM is to release in 2016 new tool Focke-Wulf Fw.189 Uhu kits - ref. 72291 - Focke-Wulf Fw.189A-1 Uhu WWII German Reconnaissance Plane (100% new molds) - Q2 2016 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM72291 - ref. 72292 - Focke-Wulf Fw.189A-2 Uhu WWII German Reconnaissance Plane (100% new molds) - Q3 2016 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM72292 V.P.

A place holder, my I-16 is too far advanced for the GB but as luck would have it I have a nice ICM I-15 in the stash so like the I-16 this is going to get finished in Chinese markings. Now I ’m off to spend the next two weeks working on my ridiculously huge wip..,

HUMVEE M1097A2 (35435) 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle, shortened to HMMWV and referred to as the Humvee because it was easier and a lot faster to say in daily use, was designed to replace the original Jeep and its descendants with a standard chassis that could be adapted to many roles, cutting down on development costs, simplifying maintenance, and providing a familiar platform for the soldiers and drivers that would be hopping in and out of them. The project has its origins in the late 1970s, morphing through several design and project changes into the HMMWV that was given the task of replacing all the Jeep-like vehicles in the US inventory. It was to have a wide wheel-base that could follow the tracks of the Bradley AFV and Abrams MBT through minefields, be sufficiently armoured to withstand indirect fire and shell-splinters - a problem that reared its ugly head later in its career. It was also waterproofed to manage deep fording without stopping to rig any specialist equipment, and it had to have extremely competent off-road handling, both to keep the troops and their equipment comfortable, and to keep pace with the tracked vehicles that it accompanied. The AM General design won the contest, being found to be the most rugged and reliable of the offerings, and a huge contract for many thousands of vehicles was forthcoming, reaching 100,000 units of production by 1995. By then however, the vehicle’s short-coming were becoming evident, with a report stating that the average time between breakdown was only 370 miles, far below what we’ve come to expect from modern motor vehicles. They were a design intended for the previous war in many ways, and when the Gulf War began, their light armour led to casualties that were deemed unacceptable, resulting in upgrades to the armour with add-on packages such as armoured doors and top-turrets. These brought their own issues however, making it difficult for troops to enter and egress due to the door design, and the armour on the roof of the vehicle made it top-heavy and more prone to roll-over accidents. During the noughties moves were made to transition to Mine Resistant Ambush Protected (MRAP) vehicles that would protect the crews and were designed from outset to be much more survivable than the HUMVEE, but with additional work it continued to serve in the modern battlefield, ensuring that it was used according to its capabilities. Work-arounds have been created to ensure crews can escape crashed or damaged vehicles by adding D-rings to the doors so another vehicle can rip them out, and a window removal kit that could be utilised if no other vehicle was available, or incoming fire prevented outside assistance. A shipment of HUMVEEs has been sent to Ukraine to assist them in their fight against the invaders, where they will doubtless see extensive service, but in the longer term the US intends to replace the HUMVEE with the Joint Light Tactical Vehicle (JLTV), which is a similar-looking vehicle, but one that has MRAP capabilities baked in, and more advanced comms equipment that will give the crews a tactical advantage on the battlefield. We won’t mention the civilian HUMMER that was developed from the original military version, as it’s an abomination. The Kit This is a new tooling from ICM, who are based in Ukraine and now have impetus to have a model of a vehicle their own army are using, and that works very well for the rest of us that want a well-detailed HUMVEE in 1:35 for our stash/cabinets. The kit arrives in a shallow top-opening box with ICM’s trademark captive inner flap on the lower tray, with a desertised HUMVEE on the cover, parked in a rutted stretch of sand. Inside the box are five sprues in grey styrene, a clear sprue, a bag containing four flexible black tyres, a decal sheet, plus the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy paper, and has profiles of the decal options on the back pages. Detail is good, and is found on both sides of the body panels, showing off strengthening ribs and other structural shapes, although there are by necessity a few ejector-pin marks on the less prominent surfaces that are in open areas to make their removal more straight forward. Construction begins with the chassis, adding engine supports to both inner sides, then fitting a shaped tank to the inner rail, and the exhaust to the same outer rail. The engine is made from a two-part block that has a pair of exhaust manifolds added underneath, with the sump and lower portion of the transmission installed below, followed up by a two-part transfer box to the rear, and the serpentine belts to the front. The assembly can then be lowered into the front of the chassis onto the supports, with a flat panel over the forward section, fitting a hose to the front of the chassis, and the other half of the exhaust in the centre. The front axle is built with gaitered drive-shafts, adding the axle tips, and the differential cover to the front, then creating the sub-frame that is mounts to from two parts, mating it with the chassis and joining it to the transfer box by a long drive-shaft. The rear axle is made in a similar manner, with the same style of sub-frame, attaching that to the rear with its own shorter drive-shaft, and fitting a pair of arms once it is in position. Each corner has a well-moulded two-part coil-over shock fitted from above, adding a steering linkage to the front axle, and two triangular carriers for the rear bumper, which is built from two layers, adding towing shackles and eyes before it is fixed into position along with a cross-member in the centre of the chassis, and another linkage at the front axle. The plate on top of the forward chassis now reveals its use as the base for the radiator, protecting it against shrapnel from the front and below. Three more protective parts are fitted to the back and sides with a fan moulded into the rear, then it’s time to put some wheels on your model, using the four flexible black tyres, and adding a hub surface to each side, slotting them in each corner to make your HUMVEE into a roller-skate. The bodywork begins with the firewall and its moulded-in windscreen frame, adding detail parts and painting various sections, then adding a combined dashboard/transmission tunnel to the centre-left, and installing the two clear windscreen panes into the frame from behind. A scrap diagram shows that there are eleven decals in total for this assembly, including dials, stencils and what look like nozzles for the heating/cooling system. An additional inverted W-shaped layer of framework is fixed to the interior of the windscreen, adding a neatly moulded steering wheel into the centre of the binnacle on the dash. Two cylindrical assemblies are made next, forming the air-cleaning box lying horizontal, and the coolant overflow tank sitting vertically against the diagonal section of the firewall on the engine side. A pair of windscreen wipers are attached to the top centre of the glazing panels, which are probably best either left off until later, or painted in advance of installing them. Going back to the cab side of the bulkhead, the ‘jug-ear’ wing mirrors are added into their protective frames, and each side has a sun visor fitted to the top, with a wiper motor glued vertically at the top of the centre frame, plus a pair of foot pedals for the driver’s use. The floor is painted in two colours split between cab and passenger/load area, making a driver’s seat-base from two L-shaped parts and a top, the co-driver’s seat base formed from a single part, applying two decals to a small instrument panel set into the tunnel next to the driver. Two levers and a handbrake lever are installed nearby, mating the firewall/windscreen assembly to the front of the floor, and adding two T-shaped parts where they meet in the centre. The sides panels are mounted either side of the floor, making up two seat-backs from front and back, then sliding them onto supports at the rear of the cushions, locating them on the bases installed earlier, and putting two short divides behind each one, slotting into grooves in the B-pillars. The rear compartment has a pair of two-part bench seats added, mounting the rear and tailgate to the back of the floor, after which the body can be mated with the chassis so that the bonnet/hood can be built. The bonnet panel has two oval holes next to the cut-out for the louvre panel, which a pair of large lifting eyes push through from underneath, adding shallow arches to the sides, then making the grille from the exterior with a mesh backing that depicts the radiator, plus two clear headlight lenses, then inserting it into the square cut-out in the front of the bonnet, adding the louvre panel, blackout driving light on the left, and combined indicator/blackout marker light on both corners. The front bumper is short but sturdy, with two types of towing eye fitted to each side plus two more on the rear, installing it and the bonnet assembly to the front of the chassis, giving your model a ‘face’. The rear doors are fitted behind the B-pillars, with a pair of covers over the well, adding another shallow full-width divider behind the crew seats, and a roll-over hoop to the tops of the B-pillars, which is made from two layers. Markings There are but two colour choices for this basic HUMVEE variant, one in NATO European camouflage, the other in desert colours, both serving during the 2000s. From the box you can build one of the following: The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion This simple open-topped HUMVEE is doubtless the first of a line of variants, so if the open cargo/passenger area doesn’t appeal, it won’t be long before you’ll have the one you want. That said, the detail is good, the construction simple, and the end result should be well-worth the effort with some care. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Hello Britmodellers, I'm usually into planes, but this little sub was a fun project. The transparent pilot dome was cast in UV resin. 5329 was stationed at IJmuiden, North Holland in February 1945. Thanks for watching! Luka

In Q4 2023 Q1 2024 ICM is to release a 1/48th Martin B-26B Marauder kit - ref. 48320 Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48320 V.P.

Bristol Beaufort Mk.I Bombing Raid (48314) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Beaufort was originally designed as a torpedo bomber by Bristol, using the experience they had gained in developing the then-excellent Blenheim. They were ready in time for the outbreak of WWII, and as well as their prescribed role, they were also used as light bombers, undertaking many ‘Rhubarb’ missions over enemy territory in the so-called ‘phony war’, undertaking daylight missions that saw heavy casualties, although the accidental loss tally outstripped combat losses, surprisingly. Roughly 1,200 were built in the UK, with the total being elevated to almost 2,000 by additional Australian-built airframes that were known as DAP Beauforts. They were rapidly overhauled by the German fighters and were withdrawn from frontline service as early as 1942, by which time they had also been tasked with Aerial mine-laying. From then on, they were assigned to serve away from the front, and saw extensive use as a trainer, which might go at least some of the way to explain the high attrition rate due to accidents. A further development of the Beaufort was the Beaufighter, which used important components of the Beaufort that included the wings and engines, with a new cut-down fuselage that was comparatively low and streamlined, with a powerful cannon armament under the nose that was useful in its assigned duties as long-distance heavy fighter, and later nightfighter, where it excelled. Some obsolete Beauforts were even converted to Beaufighters to make further use of the shared parts, which gave many of the original airframes a more honourable end than they would otherwise have seen. In an attempt to improve on the original Mk.I that took up the majority of production, the designers created additional variants that used other engines, had faired over turrets when they were to be used as trainers, and even a project that saw the fitment of a pair of Merlin XX engine that didn’t achieve the desired effect, so was cancelled, in much the same manner as the Merlin powered Beaufighter that managed to be “underpowered” despite the pedigree of the engines that propelled it. The Kit A lot of modellers that build in 1:48 had been waiting with baited breath for this new tooling from ICM, and now we’re several boxings in, depicting the aircraft in its alternative role, dropping bombs on the enemy at the beginning of WWII. This new issue arrives in a reasonable-sized top-opening box with their usual captive lid on the lower tray. Inside are nine sprues in mid-grey styrene, a large clear sprue, two decal sheets and glossy instruction booklet that has colour profiles on the rear pages. Opening the resealable bags reveals the detail that has been lavished on this kit that includes lots of internal ribbing, a set of ribbed flap bays and flaps, a representation of both banks of the Bristol Taurus engines, detailed gear bays and bay doors, and a separate sprue of bombs to complete the package. Construction begins with the narrow forward section of the bomb bay under the fuselage that is glued to a section of floor, then detailed with ribs, flipped over and joined to a bulkhead that has a doorway moulded-in, then has a chute made up on one side before it is attached to the rest of the interior floor, which has a series of eight holes drilled into it using a diagram and 0.8mm drill, being careful to space them correctly so that the bomb shackles will fit later. The starboard fuselage half has an insert fitted in the wing-root depression to match the crisp moulded ribbing that is all over the interior as far back as the trailing edge of the wings, and is caried over into the tail-wheel bay. The side windows are inserted from inside, swapping the rear one out for an opaque cover if appropriate, then the floor is mated on several slots into the fuselage sides ready for the twin spars and a good quantity of detail. The forward spar is detailed with five parts to depict the radio gear with a plotting table below it, and on the other side a section of sloped floor is fixed, then the assembly is glued into its slot, joining the bottom of the spar with the floor. The cockpit is a two-tier assembly that is started by joining the two halves of the side console together, adding a raised floor panel, the instrument panel with six dial decals and rudder pedals, a short half-bulkhead and swivelling front seat. Another simple seat is made up and glued to the rear spar along with another step-like fairing, and it too is slipped into the rear slot in the fuselage and glued in place with the seat facing forwards. The pilot’s seat is made up from two parts and has a bow-tie control column placed in front of it, while to the rear, an Elsan toilet is dropped onto a raised plinth in the rear fuselage floor. The tail wheel bay is made up from ceiling with two small bulkhead ends, and it is glued into the very rear, which already has ribbing moulded into the sides. The tail-wheel and strut is a single part than inserts in the bay ceiling on a peg, so can be left off until after main painting. The port fuselage half is prepared in a similar manner to the starboard, save for the optional rear window, and a pair of 0.9mm holes that are drilled in the upper. Just before closing the fuselage, another detail part is fixed to the bulkhead behind the pilot’s seat, with more glued into the nose on a short section of floor, which might be better added before you paint the cockpit. The main canopy is glued over the cockpit aperture, and the nose is glazed by four additional clear parts, and a choice of port-side aft door with a circular porthole or gun port fitted over the hole in the fuselage, which can have a Lewis machine-gun with dinner plate magazine on a spar across the opening. If you are installing the gun, the circular clamshell door part should be left off. The Beaufort had mid-mounted wings, so each one is separate, and made from two halves, drilling a pair of 0.8mm holes in the outer panel using the diagram to install more bomb shackles later. The port wing has a small landing light bay inserted before it is closed up, and a small dome can optionally be removed from the leading edge, then the clear light glazing is inserted once the glue has set up. A clear wingtip is fitted, and a one-piece aileron is added and able to be offset if you feel the urge. You also have to make a choice whether to fit the wing surface over the inner flaps with a trio of strakes in a nacelle extension, or a straight section with curved root fairing. The same process is carried out minus the landing light bay on the starboard wing, then both wings are slotted over the two spars that have corresponding guides moulded into the inside of the wings to ensure good location. The elevator fins are each two parts and are mounted in the usual slot/tab method, to be joined by one-piece elevators and rudder, the latter having a pair of horns near the hinge. Two flap sections are added to each wing’s underside, then the two nacelles are made up from halves along with a bulkhead near the front, and another that is glued into the wing before the nacelles are put in place. The roof of the bay is free of any detail, and is the location that the twin strut gear legs and their actuators are fixed once they are built up. The main wheels are each two halves, and they flex-fit into the lower section of the main leg, which has a curved tubular framework added to the top section, probably to assist with the smooth opening and closing of the door bays. The lower section of the main gear forms a twin triangular framework that is linked by a number of cross-members before the lower section is glued into the sockets in the upper section, and has another pair of actuators added at the rear to brace the top section. Both assemblies are inserted into the bays on each level of the roof, then the twin bay doors with their ribbed inners are added to the sides of the bays on hinge tabs. At the same time, the bomb bay has a small insert attached to the front bulkhead to add detail to the area. Each Taurus radial engine is formed from two well-detailed banks of cylinders with a circular collector ring attached to the centre by three stators, plus a complex system of tubes installed around the circumference in between the cylinders, and another at the rear of the engine that has a square peg at the back for fixing them to the wing through the cooling flaps at the rear of the cowlings. Two holes on the top of the nacelle receive a two-part intake, then the cowling is wrapped around the engine, comprising two halves and a pair of curved exhausts for each engine. She’s looking very much like a Beaufort now, but needs some defensive armament in addition to the optional Lewis gun in the side. The mid-upper turret is semi-conformal to the back of the cockpit “hump”, and is built upon a section of the fuselage with a circular base that receives the guns’ mount and gunner’s bicycle-style seat below the lip, gluing the front of the turret into position, then creating a platter for the two Lewis guns, one of which is mounted at 90° to the other to fit within the confined space, plus an armour plate at the rear of the breech with a letterbox for the gunner to peer through. This is emplaced on the mount, and is closed in by adding the rear glazing. It is inserted into the aperture behind the wings, and is faired-in by a single horse-shoe shaped part that cuts down on the whistling as it flies along. The bomb bay forms a cruciform shape when viewed from below, as it was lengthened to accept a torpedo, and has two inserts that divide the main bomb bay from its two narrower portions. The bay doors are in three sections, the narrower front and rear sections having one door per side that are closed by a single part with a panel line down the centre, while the wider main bomb bay section can be posed open using two doors each side that fold together, minimising the aerodynamic drag, as well as fitting in the space below the aircraft when on the ground. If you plan on posing all the bay doors closed, there is another single part for the main section with three panel lines to ease your path, which is always nice to see. If you are posing the main bay doors open, four bomb shackle parts are glued into the holes you drilled in the roof earlier, adding the bombs later. While the model is inverted, the underslung nose turret can be built from three parts for the gun and two-part dome, or a blanking plate is fitted over the aperture. A pitot is also mounted under the nose, a towel-rail antenna under the fuselage, and three small outlets are mounted on the wings and just behind the bomb bay, installing two bomb shackles in the holes you drilled in the wing undersides earlier. Back on its wheels, the cockpit hump is detailed with two more antennae, and another flush with the roof. Weapons there are three identical sprues that contain various weapons that allow you to make the following: 3 x 1,500lb Aerial Mine 6 x GP 250lb Bomb 6 x MC 250lb Bomb 6 x MC 500lb Bomb 6 x GP 500lb Bomb 6 x SAP 250lb Bomb 6 x Bomb Rack, combination of left & right wings, plus two bomb bay racks Each bomb is made from two halves, adding end caps and parachute bundle to the mine, additional fins and circular rings to the majority of the others, the sway-braces moulded into to the bomb racks. A drawing shows where the available munitions can be placed under or inside the aircraft. Markings ICM have begun to include templates for masking material with each of their new kits, which can be found just in front of the colour profiles for you to place tape over, cut around and apply to your model, thanks to drawings nearby that indicate what goes where. There are three decal options included on the sheet, two having the early war green/brown camo on top, and grey or black undersides, while the third is grey/green over black. From the box you can build one of the following: L4449 OA-H, No.22 Sqn., Summer 1940 L4516 OA-W, No.22 Sqn., December 1940 L9878 MW-R, No.217 Sqn., Autumn 1941 The decals are printed by ICM’s usual partners, and include dials for the instrument panels, with good register, sharpness and solid colours. Conclusion After a host of torpedo equipped Beauforts, it’s nice to see a bombing raid issue that caters to its other main mission profile. Don’t forgot that it’s a Beaufort in my preferred scale, there’s plenty of detail, and a good choice of decal options. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

In 2019 ICM is to release a new tool family of A/-B-26B/C Invader kits: - ref. 48281 - Douglas B-26B-50 Invader, Korean War American Bomber - released Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48281 - ref. 48282 - Douglas A-26B-15 Invader - released Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48282 Dedicated decals by ICM: - ref. D48001 - Douglas A-26B/C Invader (WWII) - released Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICMD48001 - ref. D48002 - Douglas B-26B/C Invader (Korean War) - released Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICMD48002 V.P.

I promised this back in the chat, finally I cleared some space on the workbench to make a start. Cheers

Beobachtungspanzergawen Sd.Kfz.251/18 Ausf.A with Crew (35105) 1:35 ICM via H G Hannnants Ltd The Hanomag Sd.Kfz.251/1 was the mainstay of the German armoured Personnel Carrier fleet, but was flexible enough to also take up many other tasks within the Nazi War Machine, from Anti-Aircraft duties to Howitzer carriage and back again to armoured reconnaissance, which led to the creation of a lot of variants. With two steerable wheels at the front, the rear was carried on tracks, giving it good clearance and rough ground capabilities that a truck simply could not manage once the going got tough and the mud deep. It was armoured sufficiently to deflect non-armour piercing rounds from small arms fire, but with an open top it was susceptible to both grenades and aerial bombardment, where the armour would concentrate the blast and reduce the interior and any unlucky crew to a tangled mess. The Ausf.A was used at the beginning of WWII alongside the Ausf.B, and was generally fitted with an MG.34 on the front cab wall, operated by a crew member from inside where he was relatively well-protected. There were more than 20 official variants and more unofficial field modifications, but despite their seemingly ubiquitous nature in German service, not many were preserved after the war, and they are highly sought after now, with many examples being based upon post-war builds from Czech factories that have been made to look as convincing as possible by their restorers. While the purist may notice the differences in films, they're still a huge improvement on repainted American half-tracks that graced movies of the 60s and 70s from an authenticity point of view. The Kit This is a new boxing of this recent tooling from ICM, adding figures and more breadth to the line-up of variants in the process. The kit arrives in a medium sized box, with a captive flap under on the bottom tray to keep the parts under control until you are ready to get in there. Under the flap are nine sprues of grey styrene, a clear sprue, and two sprues of flexible black wheels and track runs. A small decal sheet is slipped inside the glossy colour printed instruction booklet along with an instruction sheet for the additional figures, completing the package. This is a full interior kit, and has the engine, crew compartment and a substantial number of interior parts, including weapons, stowage and personal belongings, so the build should result in a highly detailed model. First impressions are good, and after the initial pages detailing with sprue diagrams, the instructions jump straight into the build with the underfloor pan, which has its ladder chassis added and is then mated to the interior floor, and has stowage bins added on the sponsons. The angular hull sides are held at the correct angle by butting up against the sides of the bins, and the rear bulkhead with door cut-out completes alignment. The engine compartment is fabricated from various panels including an armoured sump-guard, and work commences on the engine and compartment fittings. Suspension, steering gear and the block are assembled and fitted in turn, with colour call-outs to help you get the painting right. The firewall is fitted out with the driver's controls and inserted into a ledge within the hull, after which some engine ancillaries fit to the other side of the bulkhead. The driver and co-driver's seats, bench seats and a range of tools, fuel cans, weapons and spare ammunition are installed with the upper hull plates off, while a hollow former marks the space between the cab and crew compartment, which will be hidden under the upper hull part when it is installed. The key role of the observation vehicle is communications of what they find back to their own forces, so radio gear is crucial, building a set of boxes that mount on a frame and have decals applied to their faces to improve detail after painting. The completed assembly is mounted in the rear of the vehicle to the right, adding a rack of ammo on the same wall but further forward. The upper hull consists of the tapered sides of the crew compartment and the upper cowling over the engine, and it is first prepared by removing a line of four small studs near the front of the hull on each side. A template is provided to latch over the lip of the opening, which is used to drill two holes vertically around the corners of the crew compartment before proceeding. Several vision hatches and their hinges are supplied as separate parts, as are the engine compartment doors, plus some small flush forward stowage bins. Spare rifles, ammo and machine gun barrels are fitted to the underside of the upper hull on racks, after which it is glued to the lower hull, trapping the two hinge frames for the rear doors between its halves. The two angled doors are built from three parts and are then fitted to those hinges, allowing them to operate if you have been careful with the glue. It's unusual to get this far into an AFV model without building up the wheels, but it's at this stage that it's done here. The swing-arms and stub axles slot into holes in the sides of the chassis, with bump-stops fitted where applicable, and the interleaved wheels are then slid onto the axles with the drive sprocket at the front, and an anti-roll wishbone on the front axle. The two steerable wheels are made up from two-part hubs, and have rubberised tyres fitted to them before slotting them onto the front axles, following which the tracks can be wound round the length and glued with normal glue. A towing shackle is made and inserted in a hole under the rear of the vehicle, making up a tripod from four parts and slotting it into the floor near the front of the compartment opening. Pioneer tools, a fire extinguisher, stowage box, number plate, rear machine gun mount, rear view mirrors, headlamps, optional width indicators and aerial are all fixed on the upper hull, then the ‘lectern’ that sets it apart from standard variants is made for installation. This is built from a base-plate, diagonal faceted sides, and support struts underneath that mate with the hull when the assembly is lowered over the front of the cut-out. A shielded MG34 is also on the sprues to fit behind the lectern for decal option 2. A set of periscope binoculars are also supplied as an accessory for two decal options, with a choice of having the lenses separated or close together on their mount. The build is completed by fitting aerials relevant to your decal option, as shown in the accompanying diagrams. Figures As well as an observer commander figure included with the main sprues, there is another sprue of figures for your use to crew the model. On the sprue are four figures, including a driver figure and two radio operators, one adjusting his set whilst listening in on headphones, the other with his headphones round his neck writing on a pad that is resting on his left knee. The officer of course is wearing his rank appropriate cap, binoculars and riding breeches, and is resting his right arm on the lip of the vehicle's walls and his corresponding foot propped up on a box within the vehicle. His other hand is looped through his belt/over his holster and he is leaning forward as if he is interested in what's going on. The accessories are sparse due to the duties of the crew, and consist of bands for headphones, binoculars, pistol holster and notepad, while the figures themselves are broken down into separate legs, arms, torso, head with moulded in caps, or separate cap for the officer. The driver figure has his arms split at the elbow to obtain a more realistic position while maintaining detail on the hands etc., and to give a little adjustment when fitting his hands onto the steering wheel. Markings There are three decal options on the included sheet, and they’re all Panzer Grey due to when they were depicted. Two options have a map printed with the profiles that you can cut out, dog-ear and place within the vehicle to add a little candid detail to your model. From the box you can build one of the following: 1st Panzer Division (1. Pz.D), France, 1940 Unknown Division, Belarus, 1941 1st Panzer Division (1. Pz.D), Eastern Front, 1942 Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Reconnaissance and communications are important aspects of war, but not as high profile as the noisier types with big guns. It’s good to see these less conspicuous variants being kitted in such good detail. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

WWII British Army Mobile Chapel (35586) 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Chevrolet G506 truck formed the basis of a range of 4x4 load-carrying vehicles that were capable of carrying up to 1.5 tonnes of cargo or equipment. They were initially made under the 4100 code, then moved to the 7100 range, and usually had a standard enclosed cab, with a 3.9L straight-6 engine under the bonnet, with a four-speed “crash” (non-syncro) gearbox putting down a little over 80hp through all four wheels. It rapidly became the Allies’ standard light truck, and served in substantial quantities with the Allies in the West, the Soviets in the East, and the forces fighting Japan in the Far East. There were a lot of variants, some in US Army service, others in USAAF service, with almost 50,000 of two specific types, the G7107 and G7117 sent over to the Soviets under the Lend/Lease program. The G7017 had a cargo bed with canvas top, while the G7117 was the same except for the addition of a winch to give it some static pulling power. They were well-liked by their drivers and crews, and were adapted to other tasks due to their ubiquity, such as being used by the Soviets to carry Katyusha rockets on a stripped-down flatbed. Their ubiquity saw them used for all manner of tasks in the military, some of which involved Ministry to the spiritual needs of the soldiers, who may want to speak with someone before or after they go into battle. Equipped with a small load box and some furniture that could be spread around if these is suitable space, they enabled a travelling vicar or some other type of minister to the needs of their flock. The Kit This is a new boxing of a recent tooling from ICM, and comes with a full interior, engine, cab and load area all included along with some very nice moulding and detail, particularly in the chunky tyres. It arrives in one of ICM’s medium-sized top-opening boxes with the usual captive inner flap, and inside are eight sprues in grey styrene, four clear sprues, a decal sheet and glossy instruction booklet with colour profiles of the vehicle and some of its larger contents on the rear pages. Construction begins with removing a short length from the ladder chassis, which has leaf-springs fore and aft, cross-braces and rear towing eye fitted to create the structure, winch structure, then has the rear bumper irons, fuel tank, transfer casing and front axle installed, before the engine is built up based on the straight six-cylinder block, with carburettor, dynamo and transmission added, plus the pulleys and fan at the front, and a short drive-shaft at the rear that links to the transfer box in the middle of the chassis. The rear axle is made up and fitted with another drive-shaft, while the front axle gets the steering arm installed, which keeps the twin ball-jointed hubs pointing in the same direction, providing you’ve not been over-enthusiastic with the glue. The exhaust and its manifold slip into the underside of the chassis from below, and the battery box attaches to the outside of the ladder chassis next to a pair of tread-plated steps, then from the left of the engine, the air box and intake are attached to finish it off. The crew cab is next, beginning with the dashboard that inserts in the front bulkhead along with a top panel, then is joined with the cab floor and decked out with a pair of levers, gear stick and hand-brake on the floor, three foot pedals and the steering wheel on a long column that slides through a hole in the diagonal kick board section in front of the pedals. The driver and co-driver share a bench seat that is made up from back, cushion and a C-shaped surround to the base that fits into the rear of the cab and has the back wall with small ovalised window, then the roof fitted, after which the doors are made up with handles, winders and glazing, fitting within the frame in the open or closed position. On the front of the firewall a vent is glued to the scuttle panel, and two reservoirs are attached, then the cab is mated to the chassis along with a couple of additional engine ancillaries and linkages to the front axle. The radiator is laminated from core, surround and tin-work, with a bezel fitted to the front, then the assembly is applied to the front of the engine, attaching to the chassis and input/outlet hoses that are already there. The cowling sides and front fenders are installed to permit the front grille to be attached, plus the bonnet that hinges to the rear. Behind the cab a spare tyre is placed on a bracket near the exhaust, and attention turns to the load bed. The load bed floor is a single moulding with a ribbed texture underneath, which has the front and one side fitted to form a right-angle after adding the door and either a window or shutter on the opposite side of the raised religious ornamentation that is moulded in relief on the side. The interior should be painted at this stage, as the included furniture is made next, starting with a compact organ that is built from a substantial number of parts and is joined by an altar that has a tryptic to stand on the top along with a choice of religious icons, cups, books and dishes. A seat is created from five parts for the organist to sit at, and the three pieces of furniture can be glued in place in the still open back of the truck. The opposite side is made by installing two windows or shutters, then fitting the curved roof with a pair of mushroom vents on the top, plus the rear frame, into which the split door is fitted. A small section of the door folds upwards and latches on two stays, while most of it folds down to create a ramp, and is held by two more longer stays. There is planked texture with bolts and strengthening strips moulded into the inner face of the door, and under the hinge is a trapezoid skirt that has the light clustered fitted into place behind it, showing through from behind. Four lateral supports and a ladder-like frame is glued across the load bed, and four mudguards are mounted vertically on the supports either side of the rear axle, held in position with diagonal struts within the wheel well that they create. The box can then be mounted on the chassis, locating on tabs that correspond with the underside of the floor. It’s time for the wheels to be made up, with singles at the front, each made from two halves each, and twin wheels at the rear axle, put together with two two-part wheels each, and three hub parts added to the finished pair. Each wheel slips over its respective axle, and is secured in place by a central cap. The model is finished off with front light with clear lenses, side lights, door handles, bonnet clasps, wing mirrors, towing hitches, and a choice of open or closed front windscreen parts, which requires the fitting of alternative wipers to accommodate the horizontally stowed screen, which has small supports fitted diagonally against the A-pillars, as shown in scrap diagrams at the end, and a couple of grab-handles on the A-Pillars. Markings These vehicles were usually left in their arrival scheme of olive drab, but were personalised with religious icons and were often painted brightly in places to show clearly that they were non-combatants. Some would probably have been re-painted at some point, but that’s down to your references. From the box you can model the following machine: British Army Mobile Chapel, World War II Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Religion plays a part in wars, even those that aren’t triggered by them, and it’s a comfort to those engaged in combat if they’re so inclined. This Chevrolet truck would have travelled many miles across the theatre between meetings, and made some people, even those that weren’t always religious, feel a little better. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

My second contribution to the GB. It is the nice Mitsubishi bomber from ICM in Thai markings during WWII. Parts are already removed from the sprues on this one. /Nanond

Phu Bai Combat Base 1968 (53056) CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter, B-121 Bomb & M8A1 Landing Mat 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd With the advent of the helicopter, their ability to rise vertically into the air led them to lifting heavy loads, and by the end of the Korean War, there were already Heavy Lift choppers in service, most using piston-engines as their motive force, which was a limitation both in terms of power and reliability – a very important factor when you aren’t flying, but are instead beating the air into submission with your rotors. The peculiarly ungainly-looking CH-60 Mojave was reaching the end of its service life, and Igor Sikorsky had already identified the need for a very heavy lift helicopter with the S-60 that was powered by WWII era radial engines. The design was the basis for the Tarhe, but updated and given the more powerful and reliable turbo-shaft engines that were just coming into production. The engines for the nascent CH-54 were created in conjunction with Pratt & Whitney, adapting one of their new JT12 jet engines to their requirements. In an effort to keep the weight of the airframe down, the designers gave the Tarhe a cut-down skeletal fuselage, with only the crew compartment boxed in. This compartment also contained a rearward-facing cab that gave the crane operators an excellent view of proceedings, as well as limited control over the height and attitude of the airframe, as the CH-54 had an early form of fly-by-wire that allowed the duplicating of controls in a secondary location, but with the effectiveness of the controls lessened to reduce the likelihood of accidents due to sudden movements caused by the crane-operator. The advanced control system also gave it such luxuries as altitude control, reducing the workload of the pilots during extended hovers. The US Army recognised the potential of the type after a short testing phase, and took over 100 airframes on charge that would see extensive use in Vietnam. A civilian version was created too, called the S-64 Skycrane, while in army service it was often referred to as just ‘The Crane’. Because of its size, The Crane was capable of carrying enormous loads that were hitherto impossible to lift vertically, if at all. It was able to carry a Sheridan Tank, an M101 Howitzer, or up to 90 fully kitted out soldiers in a passenger pod that could be slung under the skeletal bodywork. There’s some fantastic diorama fodder right there. One of the more unusual tasks allotted to the Tarhe was carrying a huge 10,000lb bomb that was nicknamed the ‘Daisy Cutter’, although its proper designation was M-121. It was intended to explode above ground to clear landing areas for helicopters, but could also be used to clear foliage and enemy equipment, booby-traps and other unwanted obstacles away. It was packed with TNT and had an effective blast radius of 60m, but the shockwave could incapacitate or injure NVA troops up to 500m away. The Tarhe was an expensive method of delivery with limited range however, and the C-130 took over the job eventually, unloading the bomb via the rear load ramp. The bomb was superseded with a more powerful BLU-82 once stocks of the M-121 were depleted. The Tarhe was eventually withdrawn from service in the late 80s, as the airframes were ageing and the new Chinook was taking over in military service, the Tarhe finally leaving National Guard service in the early 90s. Due to their usefulness however, many of them were bought by civilian operators, especially Erickson Air-Crane of Oregon, who also took over type approval to ensure their ongoing airworthiness. The Kit This is a rebox of a brand-new tooling from ICM with a new sprue for the bomb, and to create the base from which the Tarhe operated, a sprue of M8A1 US Landing Mat and two sprues of figures have been included to depict the crew and ground personnel, giving you the basics of a diorama. The master tooling is the first of its kind in this scale, and in fact we’ve not been very well served in any scale as far as the Tarhe goes, other than an extremely old kit in 1:72 from another manufacturer. It arrives in a long top-opening box with a wrap-around painting of the type in action, and inside are a deceptive two lower trays with the usual captive lids, all of which is held in by tape. Take care when opening the box, as it could surprise you when the second box drops out. Once the boxes are open, the sprues have been spread evenly across the two trays to reduce the likelihood of damage to some of the lovely detail that’s within. There are twenty-one sprues in grey styrene, one of clear parts, a relatively small decal sheet, and a moderately thick instruction booklet printed on glossy paper with colour profiles in the rear. It’s difficult to get a feel for the scale of the finished model from the sprues, but the length is stated on the box of 774mm or 30.4” long, and 225mm or 8.9” tall. The width isn’t given, but each rotor is 28cm or 11” long, so allowing for the extra width of the centre boss it should be a little more than twice that wide. Detail is excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM in recent years, with finely engraved panel lines, raised rivets where appropriate, and crystal-clear canopy parts, which will be very visible on the finished model. Without a shadow of a doubt someone will manage to create a diorama that uses the cables to support the finished model above its load to give the impression of flight, and if they also manage to make the blades rotate, they may just achieve modelling godhood. Construction begins with the stepped cockpit floor, which is kitted out with rudder pedals for both pilots, adding the instrument panel and supporting centre console with decals to the centre, then fixing collective and cyclic sticks in position, followed by the seats that are each made from rear frame, seat pad and back cushion, locating in holes in their adjustment rails moulded into the floor. Another seat is made up from a solid base and two cushions, gluing in position on the lower section of the floor, facing aft and forming the first part of the crane operator’s cab. A partial bulkhead separates the front seats from the rear, adding another to the side of the seat that has a small console with joystick sprouting from the centre. Another L-shaped column is added on the inner side, and a short frame with an instrument panel and decal attached to it at the side of the cut-out, which is fleshed out with a pair of curved bulkheads. At the front of the cockpit, the nose cone is mounted in front of the instrument panel, then the sides and underside of the cockpit structure closes in much of the area. Turning the assembly around, the rear is closed in with a panel that wraps under the edge, and under the crane-operator seat, a foot rest with twin supports is slotted into the edge. The back of the cockpit has a lot of glazing, starting with five radiused panes in the starboard corner, one more on the port by the crane-op’s seat, and a large wrap-around section enclosing the operator’s cab. Much of the fuselage of this behemoth is skeletal, and is built up as a separate assembly, including internal bracing to ensure your Tarhe doesn’t become a Droopy. The process starts with the underside of the fuselage structure, which is made from three overlapping lengths that have location grooves for the bracing that comes later. Firstly, the winch is made from two halves that form a drum, capped off with two nicely detailed parts that turn it into a bobbin, which is supported between two angled trunnions that are each laminated from three parts, and braced at one end by rods and by the bobbin at the rounded end. It is glued between two vertical braces that have two more braces slotted in across the front and rear of the winch bay, fixing two exterior panels to the end of the cross-braces, plus another that is slotted in nearer the front. Take care here, as there are two slots, and the aft-most is the correct choice. At the same time, a cross-brace that supports the main landing gear sponsons is added from underneath, and this slots into all four thicknesses, as does another short brace behind and one more in the front, making the assembly stronger, and once it is glued to the underside of the fuselage it should be very strong. On the tapering tail section two more bulkheads are shown being added, but in the next step a longitudinal brace is shown already fitted, which I suspect is part D11, but test fit to reassure yourself when you build yours. The two tail sides with moulded-in fin hides the tail internals, joining together at the tip of the fin, and secured by adding the rear surface, and cutting a raised area off the underside. The topside of the fuselage is then boxed in with three panels, the largest having a hole in the centre for the rotor head later. The full length of the beast can be seen for the first time now, when you mate the cockpit to the front of the fuselage, gluing the side extensions to the bare section to create one assembly. An overhead console is decaled and detailed with levers, and is fixed to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit alongside another, after which the cockpit roof is laid over the area, followed by the windscreen and side doors that give your Tarhe a face. Two small two-part “ears” are made up and inserted in recesses near the rear of the cockpit, as are a couple of other small humps and bumps, the uses for which will become clear later. On the port fuselage side, a thick trunk of cables is fixed to the side and overlaid by a pair of C-shaped assemblies that are each built from three parts. The CH-54 had long legs that allowed it to pull its loads close to the spine to reduce sway, and these are next to be made, starting with a pair of two-part wheels, and the sponsons that support them, each one made from four surfaces, plus the struts, which have a two-part sleeve around the upper area, separate scissor-links and two tie-down hooks, fitting to the end of the sponson by the flattened rear of the outer sleeve. The nose wheel is also two-part, and fits on a short oleo with a one-part scissor-link under the nose. The winch head is also two parts and is added to the winch mechanism while the main gear sponsons are slipped over the supports and the nose wheel is put in place. The tail rotor head is a complex assembly that should remain mobile after construction, made up from eleven parts and fitted on the back of the tail fin along with a small bracing rod at the front. There are also several external trunks added individually on the starboard side and down the leg sponsons, some of which are overlaid by a protective panel near the front, and yet more small lengths are dotted around all over the place, making for a complex, detailed surface that should look more realistic than moulded-in alternatives. The drive-shaft for the tail rotor is also external, and runs up the back of the fin through some additional brackets, and terminating at the bottom with a four-part universal joint. More scabbed-on panels are fitted to the back of the fuselage, and a pair of optional aerodynamic fairings are supplied for the sides of the main gear sponsons. This isn’t even close to the final layer of detail yet, but we take a break from detailing to build the main rotor head next. The rotor-head starts with a bell-housing that has two input shafts from the twin turbo-shaft engines, the main portion of which is two parts, plus two-part end caps that is then placed on a circular base, and has the shaft cover and ring fitted to the top, adding a number of actuators and rods to the side, plus a housing with pulleys and equipment that mounts on the back of the head. The basic assembly is then mated with the opening in the top of the fuselage, after which there are a host of small wires/actuators/hoses that link the two assemblies together. A scabbed-on box is fixed to the fuselage behind the rotor off to one side to accommodate the drive-shaft for the tail rotor later, and a bulwark slots into a groove just in front of the rotor-head, followed by the drive-shaft, which slots through a support and dives through the tail to emerge behind the fin at the universal joint. A two-layer cover is placed over the drive-shaft around half way back, possibly to protect it from blade strikes, but it’s not the only piece of equipment that is sited on the fuselage top, which includes what appears to be a radiator assembly and some kind of exhaust, both installed behind the rotor-head, an area that is getting busy already. More parts are added further enmeshing the various assemblies, then it’s time to build the two engines. The Pratt & Whitney engines are identical in make-up until they reach the exhaust stage, which is handed. The front section is made from thirty-five parts before the handed exhausts are made, each one a mirror-image of the other, and built from eight more parts. The motors are mounted on the top deck with an M-brace between them, adding a few more small parts around them, then building up two intake filter boxes from sixteen parts each, handed to each side, with a scrap diagram showing how they should look from the front. They mount in front of the engine intakes on the ears we made earlier, and have two Z-braces front and rear between them. There are four auxiliary winches for load stabilising placed around the front and rear sides of the fuselage, with a four-part assembly making each one, and locating on a pair of brackets moulded into the fuselage sides. More detail is applied to the cockpit in the shape of four clear lenses underneath, a towel-rail and blade antenna, two more externally routed wires around the rear, and crew step plus three ladder rungs on each side, with two more around the rear. Grab-handles, door handles and windscreen wipers are next, followed by yet more grab handles on both sides leading up to the cockpit roof. More aerials are fixed at the root of the tail boom, and at the very rear, a three-part bumper is fitted under the fin, then an asymmetrical stabiliser is mounted on the opposite side of the fin to the tail rotor. Most traditional choppers have two rotors, and despite its size the Tarhe conforms to that layout, and the tail-rotor is first to be made, starting with the two-part rotor base that accepts the four individual blades, and a two-part actuator crown in the centre. It fits to the axle and should be able to rotate if you’ve been sparing with the glue. That’s the easy, simple part over with, now you must do it again on a much larger scale and with six blades. Work starts with the axle, the lower end of which slips through a centre boss and is covered by the six-point star assembly, which has another smaller star fixed to the centre, six D-shaped inserts added to the tips, and T-shaped spacers added vertically to separate the top rotor “star” from the bottom. The top portion is made up identically to the lower apart from the spacers, then it is closed over the rotor holders after gluing them in place on the lower. Each blade holder then has its four-part actuator mechanism installed over the top, and the whole assembly is topped by a three-part spinner cap. The final act is to insert each of the six blades into the holders, then drop the completed rotor into the rotor-head. The Bomb The bomb sprue can be found in its own bag, with the instructions buried in the booklet at step 189. It is built from two halves with a rear bulkhead, and when complete, it looks like a large shell. The retarding parachute pack is two parts that attach to the rear bulkhead with straps holding it in position, and the fuse is attached via an extender to ensure it lives up to its ‘Daisy-Cutter’ nickname and doesn’t bury itself in the ground before detonating. A short length of chain is made up from individual links that are put together without glue, using nine to create the connection to the aft shackle on the casing. The front shackle mounts on an eye that passes through the crane hook, and the whole assembly is fitted with bracing frame on each side. M8A1 US Landing Mat (210 x 336mm) During WWII, temporary airfields were quickly created near the battlefront on flat ground by the linking together of stamped steel planking that had the weight reduced by punching out holes in the centres where it wouldn’t weaken the structure. These were known as Perforated Steel Planking (PSP), and were used commonly in all theatres of war, reducing mud and slurry build-ups, and providing a flat and tough surface for aircraft to land, take-off and taxi along, and other vehicles were able to avoid creating ruts in the surface. The holes however led to an element of dust and debris being kicked up, which is known in aviation as Foreign Object Debris or FOD, so the design was changed to reduce the possibility of rocks and soil penetrating the planking. By the time of the Vietnam War, the M8A1 design had been formalised and was used to great effect. It was lightened by the use of corrugations to provide more strength from less material, and was capable of supporting the larger, heavier jet aircraft that were more prevalent. Lighter and more effective methods were developed later using aluminium, and latterly a honeycomb structure within that is incredibly strong, whilst reducing the amount of material needed. The set consists of four sprues, containing a total of forty-eight full planks, and sixteen half planks to accommodate an offset layout, or give it nice tidy ends. The ends of the full planks are joined by four pegs that link them together, and the longer edges have a set of simulated joints that are backed up for practicality by a series of small pegs and recesses hidden away on the lower edge, with the base flat and almost featureless to facilitate a strong bond with the substrate you are using as a baseboard. The instructions tell you to paint the planks in Gun Metal, number 1027 in ICM’s acrylic paint range. There is of course plenty of opportunity to weather them with rust and chipped/worn paint, so check your references to find your options. US Helicopter Pilots (1960-70s) There are four figures in this set, two of whom are wearing traditional crew overalls of the era, while the other two wear standard fatigues, with their sleeves rolled-up to counter the heat of their typical arena of operation, Vietnam. All figures are standing, while one pilot has an arm and leg out as if stepping up to the entry of his aircraft, and both overall clad crew have shoulder holsters with a sidearm that is a separate part attached to the junction of the straps under one arm. All the figures have peaked caps, and some can be holding a crew helmet that is found on the smaller sprues in two halves, joining up down the centre to create the hollow inner, which has ear cups for comms moulded into the lining. There are two subtly different styles of helmets, one that has no visible equipment around the sides of the face, and another that has clasps for oxygen masks or other equipment to the sides, and there are two of each type available. All the crew have flat tops to their heads for the caps, so if you decided to make them wear the helmets, you may have to do a little padding to get the correct ‘sit’ on the pilot’s head, or just add a blob of filler to simulate the rest of his head. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the main sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. Helicopter Ground Personnel (Vietnam War) This set holds a single sprue of grey styrene within, an instruction sheet that’s printed on both sides in colour is inside the main booklet, along with a flyer for their acrylic paint range that debuted some time ago. There are four figures supplied on the sprue, two of whom are standing to inspect their charge, one leaning over for a better view. The other two are kneeling or sitting, the kneeling gentleman inspecting something low down, while the other chap is sitting atop a winglet on the box top, screwdriver in hand, contemplating his next move in repairing or maintaining the engine compartment he has open. This last figure is the most kit-specific, but could easily be re-tasked by adding a box or platform of suitable height under his backside to give his stance some support. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built-up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. Seamlines and stitching have been engraved into the surfaces, making detail painting easier, and more rewarding to the eye. There are no decals provided for the figures, but over the page from the sprue diagram and paint chart are four drawings of the figures in colour, with part numbers supplied in black, and paint codes in red boxes that correspond with the chart and give codes for ICM’s own paint system, plus the generic name of the colour in question. It also lets us know that ICM’s acrylic boxed set #3023 can be used to paint the figures, which you can find in our mega review, scrolling down to the appropriately numbered set. Markings There is just one decal option on the sheet included on the sheet, and unsurprisingly, it’s green. Many of the decals are for the blades, but there are also national and airframe markings, plus the instrument panel decals and some stencils. From the box you can build the following: 67-18416 with M-121 bomb, 478 HHC (1st Cavalry Division), Phu Bai Air base, Autumn 1968 Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This will make a superbly detailed model, and its size will draw some admiring or envious glances if you take it to a show. Detail is excellent, construction is sensible, and it is a new tool of this monstrous machine. Did I mention it also has a massive bomb? Add the planked base and two sets of figures, and it should make for a lively diorama with a few extra sundries dotted around it. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Gallipoli 1915 ICM 1:35 (DS3501) The Gallipoli (or Dardanelles) campaign was the ill fated Allied attempt to weaken the Ottorman empire by taking control of the straights that provided a supply route to Russia. Despite a large Naval presence and mass landing of troops eight months of fighting saw the allies defeated by the only real Ottoman victory of WWI. Modern day Turkey see this event as a defining moment in the creation of the Turkish State. Due to the large numbers of Australian and New Zealand commonwealth forces who fought and sadly died during the campaign ANZAC Day was created to honour those men. In both countries this has grown to mark the main day of commemoration for all wars and operations which have followed. There are two sets of figures in the box, one of Turkish troops, and one of ANZAC Troops. The Turkish set which has been previously released here brings us four figures. Two troops running, with one kneeling firing his rifle, and one officer kneeling with his pistol out. In the period leading up to WWI the Ottoman Empire decided to modernise its Army, but did so by buying equipment in, instead of arranging for domestic suppliers to do this. A German Army mission was invited to advise on this, and surprisingly they favoured German Army weapons, and German manufacturers. The standard infantry front line rifle was the M1903 Mauser bolt-action rifle, and the side arm the Mauser C96. This set from ICM brings us two sprues one for the figures, and one for the equipment with a selection of the the M1903 with and without a bayonet. The C96 holstered, and out of the holster with the holster separate. Other items on the sprues are Helmets, Bayonets, ammunition pouches, water bottles, grenades, a map case, and even binoculars and their case. A box with two sets of the equipment is also available here from ICM. For the ANZC troops there are again two spures of plastic; one for the figures and one of equipment. The weapons and equipment are standard Commonwealth items with a standard field cap with neck cover for one figure, and standard slouch hats for the other 3. The figures are one running, two standing and one with a trench periscope. Conclusion This is a good set which provides for any WWI Gallipoli diorama, or even a small stand alone vignette. The figures from ICM are very well sculpted. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of

K-Verbande Midget Submarines (S.020) Type Molch & XXVIIB Seehund Midget Submarines 1:72 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd Nazi Germany developed a series of mini-submarines during WWII, trying to emulate the success of Italian mini-subs, but some, such as the Molch (Newt) were less-than-successful. The design of the subs had limited usefulness, as they were only able to operate in coastal regions, because of limited range, depth and slow speed through the water. The Molch was a one-man design that carried a pair of G7e electric torpedoes slung on each side of the lower hull, which were intended to be launched from close-range to destroy Allied shipping, preferably during darkness or in dock where they could quickly escape in the confusion. Once the type reached service late in the war, having entered production in mid-1944, it was found to be wanting, losing ten out of twelve vessels on its first mission in the Mediterranean, the remaining two of which were later destroyed by British gunfire. The next mission proved similarly costly, operating from the Netherlands, and subsequent missions, sometimes a mixed force that included the similar-looking and equally poorly designed Biber (Beaver) fared no better, losing over 70 of the 390+ Molch subs that were built by manufacturers A G Weser in Bremen. They were quickly withdrawn from active service, and the remainder were used as training vessels for other newer designs that operated until the end of the war. One such successor was the Seehund, which translates to ‘Seal’ in English, that was designed in 1944 and was larger than the diminutive Molch, so could seat two crew, although it wasn't in much comfort. Unusually, they used the captured/abandoned X-Craft of the Royal Navy that were used in the raid on the Tirpitz as templates, taking any facets of that design that they felt would be useful for their needs. The prototypes were known as Hecht during the development process, the B variant receiving the Seehund name once it reached production. It also carried two of the same G7e torpedoes, and was attributed with nine sinkings of merchant ships before the end of the war. Losses were high however, and of the 1,000 ordered, only 285 were completed, due in part to the parlous state of German industry as the war wound to its inevitable conclusion, but also due to apathy toward the design by the Kreigsmarine high command, notably Admiral Dönitz, who didn’t want their production holding up the ground-breaking new Type XXIII Elektroboot submarines that were entering service. The various Midget Submarine types were placed under the auspices of the K-Verband or Small Battle Unit for Sabotage duties that operated from April 1944 until the end of the war. The Kit This is a combination boxing of a new tooling of the Molch, and an older 2010 tooling of the Seehund in this scale by ICM, part of their small but expanding maritime line of kits. The Molch is also the first injection-moulded kit in this scale, the others having been resin, a medium that doesn’t appeal to everyone for various reasons. The Seehund has been seen in a few boxes over the last decade, some of them in collaboration with Revell. The kits arrive in a small top-opening box with the usual captive flap on the lower tray, and inside is one bag per kit, each containing one sprue of grey styrene, the Molch adding a clear sprue, a small decal sheet for each kit, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour with the painting profiles on the rear pages for the newer Molch, while the Seehund’s booklet is printed in black and while with red spot colour, and a separate greyscale sheet for the profiles. Detail is good as far as any submarine model has detail, with raised weld-lines, rivets and inspection hatches where appropriate, and the models should build up quickly and easily, including a ‘cockpit’ for the solitary crew member on the Molch. Type XXVIIB Seehund Early (S.006) Construction of this simple, but well-detailed model begins with mating the two hull halves, being careful to align all the strengthening bands that wrap around the hull, to reduce clean-up of seams later. A two-part protective cowl is mounted around the screw, adding a pair of steering-vanes to the rear, each one made from fixed front section and aft steering plane that rotates on a pin, so can be posed deflected if you wish. The sail/fin/conning tower has its forward half moulded into the hull, adding the teardrop extension to the rear from two vertical parts plus the top, and fitting a spray-deflecting lip around the front to prevent flooding of an open hatch when at sea. The top of the hatch incorporated a clear dome on the real thing that could withstand pressures down to 45m, but on this kit the part is made from styrene, so must be painted silver to replicate the glazing, unless you feel like heat-moulding a replacement? The periscope, magnetic compass mast and short air-intake trunk are all fitted into holes in the top of the tower, then the four parts that hold the torpedoes in place on each side are installed, followed by the torps themselves, which are moulded in two halves, plus a two-part screw at the rear. The torpedoes, the screw that propels the Seehund and the hull are brought together at the end, mounting them on the simple curved stand that is also included in the box, unless you plan to make a custom base to match the rest of your finished models. Markings There are two decal options on the small sheet, one in pale grey, the other in a darker grey with white mottle over the top surfaces to break up its profile in clear water. From the box you can build one of the following: Lehrkdo 300, Surendorf, May 1945 K-Flotilla 312, Ijmuiden, February 1945 Note that the swastikas are missing from the centres of the pennant decals, which is becoming more common due to its reputation and association with a vile regime. If you want to include one for historical accuracy however, you will need to source or print them yourself. Molch (S.019) Construction begins with building up the main hull, starting by installing the windows in the starboard conning tower, with more in the port side. The crew compartment is built between two circular bulkheads, and has a narrow floor and curved sides, squeezed into what space remains between the mechanisms that run the sub. There is a simple two-part seat affixed to the rear bulkhead, a small console on the port side, and a steering wheel on a stalk in the centre. The completed compartment is inserted into the starboard side, and is joined by the periscope, which has a hydrodynamic teardrop profile. The port side has a solitary dial fitted on a peg in between the windows, then the hull is closed, adding a two-part fairing to the rear of the conning tower to help the water flow smoothly around it. The torpedo-like rear of the sub is made from two halves and has a screw added, with a large rudder moulded into the port half. It inserts into a socket in the rear of the hull, and there are two two-part rails fitted into recesses that run down the underside of the boat, along with a large whale-tail with dive plane at the rear. Larger rails are fixed on lugs further up the sides, with a choice of two styles of clear hatches at the top of the conning tower, through which the pilot would have a limited view of his surroundings when surfaced without needing to open the hatch. The two offensive torpedoes that it carries are each made from two halves and have their screws moulded into the rear along with the steering vanes, and once completed, they attach to the rails under the main hull on a pair of pegs, one torpedo per side. ICM have helpfully included a one-part plastic stand in the kit, which is heavily contoured and attaches to the sub by pins that locate in holes under the centre of the main hull. If you don’t intend using the stand, you may want to fill the holes, unless you can reuse them for your alternative. Markings There are four decal options on the small sheet, but subs don’t have many markings, and from the box you can build one of the following: Training sub-unit of Formation K (K-Verbände), 1944 Formation K (K-Verbände), North Sea, 1945 Formation K (K-Verbände), North Sea, 1945 South African Museum of Military History, Johannesburg, 2000s Decals for both subs are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Although the Swastikas that the Molch in option D wore are blacked out on the profiles, they are supplied in two parts for those that want to depict them as they appeared at the time for historical accuracy's sake, and their local laws don't restrict their use. Conclusion Mini-subs or midget subs as they are sometimes known are an interesting dead-end development of the underwater war during WWII. At this scale they are small, easy to build, and take up little room on the shelves, whilst offering good detail. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

I’ve had a FROG Katyushka in my stash for ages. One of those kits you get out periodically, take a look and put back again quickly! I do like the work tray box though - I wonder why they never caught on? ICM do an SB-2. I was struck by the kit engineering and bought one: The idea of this build is to make the ICM kit and see if I can’t salvage the FROG one alongside it. The ICM is one of their older kits - it isn’t as sharp as their Po-2 but it’s still very impressive. The wings and ailerons take a bit of work to get sorted (on the right): Here’s what made me get one. You start building the airframe with the centre section: Then add more bits: And suddenly you’ve got a detailed cockpit, bomb bay and wheel wells: Although I suspect that there are some throttles and other bits needed in the cockpit. The nose and tail follow the same pattern of building up separately before sticking it all together.

From Hannants e-shop, the new ICM 2024 programme https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?adv=1&product_category_id=103&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=8060&product_type_id=&code=&scale_id=&keyword_search=&setPerPage=100&sort=0&search_direction=0&save_search_name=&save_search= The aircraft hightlights being in my opinion de new tool 1/48th Sikorsky UH-60A and MH-60L Black Hawk helicopter kits expected in Q4 2024 - thread is here: link V.P.

M8A1 Landing Mat (48410 & 53200) 1:48 & 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd During WWII, temporary airfields were quickly created near the battlefront on flat ground by the linking together of stamped steel planking that had the weight reduced by punching out holes in the centres where it wouldn’t weaken the structure. These were known as Perforated Steel Planking (PSP), and were used commonly in all theatres of war, reducing mud and slurry build-ups, and providing a flat and tough surface for aircraft to land, take-off and taxy along, and other vehicles were able to avoid creating ruts in the surface. The holes however led to an element of dust and debris being kicked up, which is known in aviation as Foreign Object Debris or FOD, so the design was changed to reduce the possibility of rocks and soil penetrating the planking. By the time of the Vietnam War, the M8A1 design had been formalised and was used to great effect. It was lightened by the use of corrugations to provide more strength from less material, and was capable of supporting the larger, heavier jet aircraft that were more prevalent. Lighter and more effective methods were developed later using aluminium, and latterly a honeycomb structure within that is incredibly strong, whilst reducing the amount of material needed. Each set is moulded in a scale that will see plenty of use if you’re building some of ICM’s recent models, but also with many models from other companies, so it should find a ready market amongst us modellers. The sets arrive in top-opening boxes with a painting of the planking on the top, and a captive lid on the lower tray containing four sprues in each scale. The ends of the planks are joined by four pegs that link them together, and the longer edges have a set of simulated joints that are backed up for practicality by a series of small pegs and recesses hidden away on the lower edge, with the base flat and almost featureless to facilitate a strong bond with the substrate you are using as a baseboard. The Kit 1:48 (48410) Each of the four sprues have runners around the edges, containing eight full planks and another eight half planks that allow an overlapping layout, totalling 48 planks and 48 half planks. The Kit 1:35 (53200) Each of the four sprues have no runners around the edges, containing eight full planks and another four half planks that allow an overlapping layout, totalling 48 planks and 16 half planks. Markings The instructions tell you to paint the planks in Gun Metal, number 1027 in ICM’s acrylic paint range. There is of course plenty of opportunity to weather them with rust and chipped/worn paint, so check your references to find your options. Conclusion Having a couple of boxes of ICM’s PAG-14 Soviet concrete slabs that fulfil a similar but more permanent task on Russian airfields in my stash, I’m happy to see these reach us, as they are more modern than the traditional PSP that we have available already, and they are more accurate for the jet age and Vietnam era. Hopefully, we’ll see sets in 1:72 and 1:32 to round out the range in due course, plus some of the more modern replacements. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Gloster Sea Gladiator Mk.II (32045) with Royal Navy Pilots 1:32 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Gladiator was the last biplane fighter used by the RAF before the introduction of more modern monoplanes such as the Spitfire and Hurricane. The Gladiator was designed in response to an early 30s Air Ministry requirement for an aircraft capable of 250mph armed with at least four machine guns. Gloster decided that rather than developing a brand-new fighter, they could capitalise on their Gauntlet design that was reaching maturity. This modified design would dispense with a pair of interplane struts to reduce drag and utilise a wing design that had been developed by Hawkers. The "new" aircraft would use the 700 hp Bristol Mercury engine, first flying in 1934, with the first production aircraft being delivered into service in 1937. The Gladiator was probably the pinnacle of biplane design with its streamlining, closed cockpit and heavier armament. The Mk II would be powered by a Bristol Mercury VIIIA engine, and was known as the J-8A in Swedish service. The Sea Gladiator was developed from the Mk.II with the addition of an arrestor hook, with later variants also having space for a dinghy pack to survive water landings away from immediate rescue. Almost 100 Sea Gladiators were built for the Royal Navy before they were replaced by more modern designs, again taking the shape of Navalised variants of Hurricanes and Spitfires While the RAF ordered and received some 180 aircraft, the biplane design was really at the end of its useful life with more modern types being introduced around the world. The type saw active service in the Battle of France in 1940, and on the home front in the Orkneys. Overseas they were used in Norway and most famously in the defence of Malta, where a trio by the name of Faith, Hope and Charity managed to defend the Island for a period against vastly superior numbers of Italian forces. Gladiators also saw service in Africa as well as in Greece and the Middle East, Belgium, China and Finland. By 1941 the aircraft had been retired from front line service with the RAF, though it continued to serve in communications and weather research roles for a little while. The Kit This is a reboxing of ICM’s recent tooling in 1:32 scale of this classic late biplane. The kit arrives in a large top-opening box, and inside are six sprues of grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts, decal sheet and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour with markings profiles on the rear pages, plus a sheet for the figures that are also included. Detail is good, as we’ve seen in previous boxings, adding the parts necessary to navalise the model and the figures that bring some human scale to it. Construction begins with the fuselage halves, inserting the fuselage guns in their troughs, and putting an instrument on the port bulkhead, followed by sidewall frames with equipment moulded into them and a trim-wheel on the port side. A sill insert is detailed with a short bulkhead to the rear, an instrument cluster with decal under the front lip, and a lever for the throttle is mounted on the port side, slotting the assembly into the port fuselage and setting it aside while the rest of the cockpit is built. The compass is mounted on a short column with a decal for the dial, the rudder bar has an adjustment wheel added to the centre, and the pilot’s seat is made from base and backrest plus an adjustment lever that glues into a slot in the back. They are all brought together on the cockpit floor, which has detail moulded-in, and includes the ribbed foot trays that sit under the pilot’s feet and rudder pedals. The completed assembly is inserted into the port fuselage, adding the tail-wheel and separate yoke, a deck behind the pilot with a small bulkhead behind it, and the main instrument panel that has a dial decal applied. A fuselage insert is applied to the deck in front of the cockpit, with a pair of pegs fore and aft that help with alignment when the starboard fuselage is mated to the port and glued in place, adding a three-part frame for the gunsight in the front of the cut-out. The tail fin is moulded into the fuselage and is open at the rear, closing it with an insert and then mounting a two-part rudder to complete the assembly. The elevators are each made from two parts, as are the flying surfaces, slotting them into the holes on either side of the tail, cutting off the lower aerial post from the fin, and fitting the access door to the cockpit in the open or closed position. Another door is provided for the starboard side, which also has a curved radiator panel mounted in a recess on the cowling. The canopy is supplied in three parts to allow it to be posed open or closed, gluing the fixed windscreen and aft section first, and choosing which position to apply the opener. The lower wings are moulded as full span for the bottom half, gluing the two uppers and the separate ailerons before mounting it to the slot under the fuselage, with the arrestor hook and its insert fitted just behind it. The upper wing is full-span top and bottom, with separate ailerons, and locates on the model via four cabane struts and two interplane struts near the ends of each wing. There are seven drawings that will assist you with rigging your Gladiator later in the booklet, but first the landing gear and the rest of the model are completed. The main gear struts are each made from three parts for strength, and have a two-part wheel with a hub insert at the rear that the axle slots into once the glue is cured. Flipping the model over, two underwing guns are fixed in the centre of two almond-shaped recesses under the lower wing, over which the fairings fit, mounting the main gear into recesses under the front of the fuselage, plus a two-part intake at the very front. A formation light and crew step are glued under the cockpit, and an optional blister fairing can be mounted under the belly between the wings. As yet the Glad doesn’t have much in the way of propulsion, the nine-cylinder Bristol radial created from a lamination of five parts, with an axle set inside the reduction gear bell-housing without glue. A set of three tripodal supports are made from two parts that are arranged equidistant around the bell-housing, and two intake trumpets are built from three parts, pushed through the cylinders of the Mercury engine, sliding the exhaust collector-ring tubing on from the front, and adding the outer ring to the forward edge. If you intend to close the cowling panels, there are three curved sections that are installed one at a time, slotting the exhaust stubs in next to each other in the lower portion. To model your Gladiator without its cowling however, cylinder heads are first glued to the tops of each of the cylinders, and the exhausts use the same parts, but add an adaptor to the front so that they can plug into the rear of the collector ring. The completed engine is then mounted on the front of the fuselage on a keyed-plug, choosing either a two-bladed prop with a three-part spinner, or a three-bladed unit with a single-part spinner applied to the front. The model is ostensibly complete, but the rigging diagrams assist you with completion, using whatever thread or wire you usually choose for such tasks. Figures A single sprue in grey styrene contains parts to make the three gentlemen that are depicted on the instruction sheet. The figures include a rating, a pilot and an officer, all looking in (presumably) the same direction as if they are watching a colleague coming in to land. The rating is shielding his eyes against the glare, and the officer is pointing in the direction of the object of their attention, while the pilot is supporting his parachute on one shoulder, with the other hand in his pocket, wearing full flight gear that includes boots, jacket and flying helmet plus goggles. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. The pilot’s Mae West life vest is separated from the front of the figure to ease moulding, and his ‘chute is made from an additional three parts, plus his goggles are separate too, as are the straps under his chin, depicted undone in this boxing. The other figures are each detailed with their own accessories, the officer having a folder moulded into his right arm, while the rating is carrying a can of paint moulded into his hand, with a separate paintbrush resting across the top of the lid. The instructions are a combined painting and assembly guide, using black numbers to identify parts for the figures, and red boxed letters for paints, cross-referencing the letters against a paint chart on the opposite side that gives names of paint colours in Ukrainian and English, plus ICM’s own paint codes. From these you should be well able to determine which paints to use if you don’t happen to have the necessary ICM paints to hand. Markings There are four decal options included on the sheet, all wearing a similar scheme and differentiated by their individual markings. From the box you can build one of the following: No.804 Sqn., RNAS Hatston, Orkney Islands, October 1940 No.804 Sqn., HMS Furious, May 1940 No.813 Sqn., HMS Eagle, Summer 1940 Hal Far, Malta, June 1940 The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. As is common now with ICM kits, there is a section of the instruction booklet devoted to the masking of the canopy, using the eight printed shapes on the right of the page and the diagrams on the left to create your own masks if you wish. Conclusion ICM’s Gladiator is now the de facto standard in this scale, with plenty of detail and simple construction that lends itself to easy building of an impressive model. Adding the Sea Gladiator parts and figures gives it extra appeal. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Bristol Beaufort Mk.IA w/Tropical Filters (48311) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Beaufort was originally designed as a torpedo bomber by Bristol, using the experience they had gained in developing the then-excellent Blenheim. They were ready in time for the outbreak of WWII, and as well as their prescribed role, they were also used as light bombers, undertaking many ‘Rhubarb’ missions over enemy territory in the so-called ‘phony war’, embarking on daylight missions that saw heavy casualties, although the accidental loss tally outstripped combat losses, surprisingly. Roughly 1,200 were built in the UK, with the total being elevated to almost 2,000 by additional Australian-built airframes that were known as DAP Beauforts. They were rapidly overhauled by the German fighters and were withdrawn from frontline service as early as 1942, by which time they had also been tasked with Aerial mine-laying. From then on, they were assigned to serve away from the front, and saw extensive use as a trainer, which might go at least some of the way to explain the high attrition rate due to accidents. The Mk.IA had an improved turret fitted at the rear of the crew compartment spine, that was notable because it was more square in profile, and torpedo bombers were fitted with early ASV radars , the antennae for which were mounted on the leading edges of the wings. A further development of the Beaufort was the Beaufighter, which used important components of the Beaufort that included the wings and engines, with a new cut-down fuselage that was comparatively low and streamlined, with a powerful cannon armament under the nose that was useful in its assigned duties as long-distance heavy fighter, and later nightfighter, where it excelled. Some obsolete Beauforts were even converted to Beaufighters to make further use of the shared parts, which gave many of the original airframes a more honourable end than they would otherwise have seen. In an attempt to improve on the original Mk.I that took up the majority of production, the designers created additional variants that used other engines, had faired over turrets when they were to be used as trainers, and even a project that saw the fitment of a pair of Merlin XX engine that didn’t achieve the desired effect, so was cancelled, in much the same manner as the Merlin powered Beaufighter that managed to be “underpowered” despite the pedigree of the engines that propelled it. The Kit A lot of modellers that build in 1:48 have been waiting with baited breath for this new tooling from ICM, and now it is with us, despite the horrible circumstances that besets the Ukrainian people at the time of writing. This initial boxing rightly covers the Mk.I torpedo bomber, and there is another boxing on the way with a tropicalised engine fit that should arrive pretty soon. This new issue arrives in a reasonable-sized top-opening box with their usual captive lid on the lower tray. Inside are eight sprues in mid-grey styrene, a large clear sprue, decal sheet and glossy instruction booklet that has colour profiles on the rear pages. Opening the resealable bags reveals the detail that has been lavished on this kit that includes lots of internal ribbing, a set of ribbed flap bays and flaps, a representation of both banks of the Bristol Taurus engines, detailed gear bays and bay doors, and a torpedo to complete the package. Construction begins with a narrow torpedo bay under the fuselage that is glued to a section of the aft floor, then detailed with ribs, flipped over and joined to a bulkhead that has a doorway cut in it, then has a chute made up on one side before it is attached to the rest of the interior floor, which is initially free of detail, apart from underneath, where it has bomb shackles moulded-in, and a semi-cylindrical bay toward the front of the fuselage, which will allow the torpedo to nestle into the fuselage part way. The starboard fuselage half has an insert fitted into the wing-root depression to match the crisp moulded ribbing that is all over the interior as far back as the trailing edge of the wings, and extends into the tail-wheel bay. The side windows are inserted from inside, swapping the rear one out for an opaque cover if appropriate, then the floor is mated on several slots into the fuselage sides ready for the twin spars and a good quantity of detail. The forward spar is detailed with four parts to depict the radio gear with a plotting table below it, and on the other side a section of fairing is fixed, then the assembly is glued into its slot, joining the bottom of the spar with the fuselage blank. The cockpit is a two-tier assembly that is started by joining the two halves of the side console together, adding a raised floor panel, the instrument panel with five dial decals and rudder pedals, a short half-bulkhead and the swivelling front seat. Another simple seat is made up and glued to the rear spar along with another step-like fairing, and it too is slipped into the rear slot in the fuselage and glued in place. The pilot’s seat is made up from two parts and has a bow-tie control column placed in front of it, while to the rear, an Elsan toilet is dropped onto a raised plinth in the rear fuselage floor. The tail wheel bay is made up from ceiling with two small bulkhead ends, and it is glued into the very rear, which already has ribbing moulded into the sides. The tail-wheel and strut is a single part than inserts in the bay ceiling on a peg, so can be left off until after main painting. The port fuselage half is prepared in a similar manner to the starboard, save for the optional rear window, and a 0.9mm hole that is drilled in the ceiling. Just before closing up the fuselage, another detail part is fixed to the bulkhead behind the pilot’s seat, with more glued into the nose, which might be better added before you paint the cockpit. The main canopy is glued over the cockpit aperture, and the nose is glazed by four additional clear parts, and a choice of port-side aft door with a circular porthole or gun port fitted over the hole in the fuselage, which can have a Lewis machine-gun with dinner plate magazine on a spar across the opening. If you are installing the gun, the clamshell door part should be left off. The Beaufort had mid-mounted wings, so each one is separate, and made from two halves. The port wing has a small landing light bay inserted before it is closed, and a small dome is removed from the leading edge, then the clear glazing is inserted once the glue has set up. A clear wingtip is fitted, and a one-piece aileron is added and able to be offset if you feel the urge. You also must make a choice whether to fit the wing surface over the inner flaps with a trio of strakes in a nacelle extension, or a straight section with curved root fairing. The same process is carried out minus the landing light bay on the starboard wing, then both wings are slotted over the two spars that have corresponding guides moulded into the inside of the wings to ensure good location. The elevator fins are each two parts and are mounted in the usual slot/tab method, to be joined by one-piece elevators and rudder, which the latter having a pair of horns near the hinge. Two flap sections are added to each wing’s underside, then the two nacelles are made up from halves along with a bulkhead near the front, and another that is glued into the wing before the nacelles are put in place. The roof of the bay is free of any detail, and is the location that the twin strut gear legs and their actuators are fixed once they are built up. The main wheels are each two halves, and they flex-fit into the lower section of the main leg, which has a curved tubular framework added to the top section, probably to assist with the smooth opening and closing of the door bays. The lower section of the main gear forms a twin triangular framework that is linked by several cross-members before the lower section is glued into the sockets in the upper section, and has another pair of actuators added at the rear to brace the top section. Both assemblies are inserted into the bays on each level of the ceiling, then the twin bay doors with their ribbed inners are added to the sides of the bays on hinge tabs. At the same time, the bomb bay has a small insert attached to the front bulkhead to add detail to the area. Each Taurus radial engine is formed from two well-detailed banks of cylinders with a circular collector ring attached to the centre by three stators, plus a complex system of tubes installed around the circumference in between the cylinders, and another at the rear of the engine that has a square peg at the back for fixing them to the wing through the cooling flaps at the rear of the cowlings. Two holes on the top of the nacelle receive a different two-part intake, then the cowling is wrapped around the engine, comprising two halves and a pair of curved exhausts for each engine. She’s looking very much like a Beaufort now, but needs some defensive armament in addition to the optional Lewis gun in the side. The new mid-upper turret is mounted in the back of the cockpit “hump”, and is built upon a separate section of the fuselage with a circular base that receives the guns’ mount and gunner’s bicycle-style seat below the lip, gluing the majority of the turret into position along with a fairing lip around the end, then deciding whether to mount the clear glazing in the top of the nose, or the alternative that mounts another two Lewis guns in the nose. The bomb/torpedo bay forms a cruciform shape when viewed from below, as it was lengthened to accept the torpedo, and has the mount fitted into the wider centre section, and if not carrying a torpedo, two inserts close off the bomb bay from its two narrower sections. The bay doors are in three sections, the narrower front and rear sections having one door per side, while the wider bomb bay section has two doors each side that fold together, minimising the aerodynamic drag, as well as fitting in the space below the aircraft when on the ground. If you plan on posing all the bay doors closed, there are three additional conjoined parts to ease your path, which is always nice to see. The torpedo has been seen in a separate box before, and its build is covered on the last page of instruction steps, making it up from two halves, adding a three-part H-tail with twin spinners, and another spinner-plus-spacer at the business end. There are also five steps to create a trolley for moving your Torp about and loading it onto the Beaufort on rising scissor-links if you want to add a bit of diorama appeal to your model. The torpedo is mounted with all bay doors open, and glues onto a long curved rectangular frame in the centre of the bomb bay. While the model is inverted, the underslung nose turret can be built from three parts for the gun and two-part dome, or a blanking plate is fitted over the aperture. A pitot is also mounted under the nose, a towel-rail antenna under the fuselage, and three small outlets are mounted on the wings and just behind the bomb bay. Back on its wheels, the cockpit hump is detailed with two more antennae, and another either flush with the roof in a typical D/F loop fairing. The radar antennae are reminiscent of TV aerials, formed from a main antenna with several dipoles perpendicular, one under each wing, mounted on two brackets that fit into holes drilled in the wings earlier, and another offset under the nose on a single post. These are most definitely best left of until the very end so that they survive without damage. Markings ICM have begun to include templates for masking material with each of their new kits, which can be found just in front of the colour profiles for you to place tape over, cut around and apply to your model, thanks to drawings above that indicate what goes where. There are four decal options included on the sheet in a variety of schemes. From the box you can build one of the following: DD959 Q, No.217 Sqn., Malta, 1942 L9965 T, Mediterranean Sea region, 1942 DX157, presumably Indian Ocean region, Spring 1944 EK979, RAF Training Unit, Bilbais, Egypt, 1944 The decals are printed by ICM’s usual partners, and include dials for the instrument panels, with good register, sharpness, and solid colours. As is common now with ICM kits, there is a page of the instruction booklet devoted to the masking of the canopy, using the printed shapes on the bottom of the page and the diagrams above to allow you to create your own masks if you wish. It goes up to 64 thanks to the copious glazing of the Beaufort. Conclusion I was looking forward to the initial release, and I’m wasn’t disappointed, and this rebox with new parts is just as good with another theatre of operation opening up in terms of subjects. It’s another Beaufort in my preferred scale, there’s plenty of detail, and a good choice of decal options. Very highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

Ju.88P-1 Tank Buster (48228) 1:48 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd The Ju.88 was designed as a schnellbomber in the mid-30s, and at the time it was faster than current fighter designs, so it was predicted that it could infiltrate, bomb and escape without being intercepted. That was the theory anyway. By the time WWII began in the west, fighters had caught up with the previously untouchable speed of the Ju.88, and it needed escorting to protect it from its Merlin equipped opponents. It turned out to be a jack of all trades however, and was as competent as a night fighter, dive bomber or doing reconnaissance as it was bombing Britain. They even popped a big gun on the nose and sent it against tanks and bombers, with variable success. The P-series were Ju.88As were fitted with heavy frontal weapons to destroy bombers or tanks, depending on the task they were given. The P-1 had a 75mm cannon mounted in a pod beneath the fuselage that required the removal of the Gondola that was typically fitted in the ventral position. Later variants such as the P-2 and P-3 carried twin 37mm cannons instead, while the P-4 had a 50mm Bordekanone similar to that fitted to the experimental Me.262. A proposed P-5 was intended to carry an 88mm cannon, on the basis that big is better, a common maxim in Nazi Germany at the time. The war ended before anything could be made of that however. The P series were only made in small quantities, and when engaged in anti-tank operations, they were subject to intense enemy fire, which encouraged the engineers to install additional frontal armour to protect the crew and important areas of the airframe. The Kit This is a new variation on the original tooling of an A-5 and subsequent A-11 that were release by ICM, with new Bordekanone parts hidden on a single additional sprue to make it specific to this boxing. The box is the usual top-opening with an inner lid on the lower tray, and inside you will find eight sprues in grey styrene, two in clear, a decal sheet and a glossy covered instruction booklet with spot colour inside, and the decal options in full colour on the rear pages. If you have been lucky enough to see the other kits in the range, you'll know that detail is right up there in terms of quality and crispness, with ICM improving leaps and bound over the last several years despite ongoing impediments, which is great news for us modellers, as they aren't frightened of tackling what to us may seem niche subject matters. Construction begins with the addition of sidewall details in the capacious cockpit area of the fuselage. Rear bulkhead with radio gear, side consoles and seats are all added to the cockpit sides for a change, with an insert in the fuselage for the circular antenna and tail wheel added into the starboard side. The instrument panel is supplied with decals, and fits into the fuselage during joining. The missing floor is added to the new lower fuselage panel that includes the lower parts of the inner wings and gives the structure extra strength. It also receives the rudder pedals, control column, and the two remaining well-detailed crew seats before being joined to the fuselage. The tail plane has articulated flying surfaces, and the wings are supplied as top and bottom halves, with the flaps and ailerons separate from the box, having neat curved fairings so they look good when fitted deflected. The flaps include the rear section of the soon-to-be-fitted nacelles, which are added as separate parts to avoid sink-marks, and these and the ailerons run full-span, terminating just as the wingtip begins. This variant was absent the under-fuselage gondola, leaving a hole in the underside of the fuselage. At this point, the landing gear is made up on a pair of upstands that are added to the underwing in preparation for the installation of the nacelle cowlings. The engines must be built up first though, with a high part count and plenty of detail, mounting on a rear firewall that securely fits inside the cowling. Even though this is an in-line engine with an inverted V-shaped piston layout, the addition of the annular radiators gives it the look of a radial, with their representation added to the front of the cowling, obscuring much of the engine detail. The side panels can be left off to show all that detail however, and I'm sure someone will be along with some in-scale opened panels in due course. The cooling flaps around the cowling are separate, and the exhausts have linked stacks, which aren't hollow but are large enough to make boring them out with a drill a possibility. The completed nacelles fit to the underwing over the top of the main gear installation, securing in place with four pegs, two on each side of each nacelle. The props are made from spinner, backplate and a single part containing all three blades, sliding onto a pin projecting from the engine front, which will require some glue if you want to keep them on. The instructions recommend adding the canopy glazing, which consists of a choice of faceted nose cone or a metal nose depending on which decal option you have elected to portray, and the main greenhouse for the cockpit aperture, adding a machine gun to the windscreen for forward defence (in case the big gun runs out of ammo). The rear portion is made later from two additional parts due to its double "blown" shape to accommodate the two rear-facing gun positions, so that the gunner's head isn't pressed against the canopy. The guns are fitted through the two circular ports on the rear, although no ammo feed is supplied. The 75mm Bordekanone is depicted in its entirety for this model, starting with the two-part breech, which has two actuators added to the sides, and is clamped between the halves of the feeder mechanism, adding the one-piece barrel to the front, which has a peg moulded-in to accommodate a choice of two muzzles later. The assembly is completed by fixing a trapezoid cover to the rear, mounting the completed gun to its two-part pod walls after putting in small side windows, then slipping the aerodynamic front fairing over the barrel and mating it to the sides. The pod is glued into the hole under the fuselage, adding a clear window to the rear with a Zwilling gun mount later, and while the model is inverted, four actuators are installed on the ailerons, with an aerial on the fuselage near the trailing edge of the port wing. The two-part wheels, tail-wheel bay doors and twin main gear bay doors are added, both having good detail and the former a radial tread. Addition of the canopy mounted antenna, a pitot probe in the port wingtip, and choosing which of the two-part muzzles you use completes the build. Markings The kit includes two markings options, and although there are no Swastikas on the sheet, they are supplied in halves for those that want them for historical accuracy where the local regulations permit. From the box you can build one of the following: Ju.88P-1, Rechlin Test Site (Erprobungsstelle Rechlin), 1943 Ju.88P-1, Eastern Front, 1943 The colours are picked out using letters that correspond to a table on the front page, which gives the names and paint codes in the ICM acrylic range, but it shouldn’t be too taxing to convert to your paint system of choice. The decals are printed in good register, colour density and sharpness, with additional instrument dials included on a clear carrier film to help with cockpit painting. All the stencils are legible, with a thin carrier film cut close to the printing. As is common now with ICM kits, there is a page of the instruction booklet devoted to the masking of the canopy and other clear parts, using the printed shapes on the right of the page and the diagrams on the left to create your own masks if you wish. It goes up to 65 thanks to the faceted greenhouse glazing. Conclusion ICM's range of Ju.88s, He.111s and Do.17s are a good example of how far they have come in recent years, adding value to their brand, and improving their reputation with each release. The kit is well-detailed and comprehensive in what it includes, and the big gun under the fuselage appeals to me immensely. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

FWD Type B Ammunition Truck (35656) 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd Built by the Four Wheel Drive (FWD) company, this was a very early truck used by the military of Britain and the US during WWI, beginning in 1915 with a small order from the British Army. It was full of curious technology from a modern standpoint, but then vehicles of this type were still in their infancy, so it’s hardly surprising that there were a few technological dead-ends. It was originally supplied with solid rubber tyres and the front wheels had a strange toed-in look due to the suspension geometry that was set up to give a light steering load. Its T-head engine produced a monstrous 36bhp for rice-pudding skin removal, and it could be connected to all four wheels, or either the front or rear in the event of necessity or damage to either drive-shaft. It also had a distinctive turned-up nosed front because the engine was mounted below the cab, with only the radiator housed in the front and precious little (read: zero) protection for the driver and crew from the elements. Over 12,000 were made before the end of WWI, with them finding a ready market in the post-war period in the civilian sector, sometimes with pneumatic tyres added to improve the ride quality, and a cover for the crew cab to increase creature comforts. The Kit This is a reboxing with new parts of a recent tooling from ICM, widening their WWI vehicle range once again. Arriving in their usual top-opening box with captive flap on the lower tray, there are five sprues in grey styrene plus a tiny clear sprue, a similarly small decal sheet and the instruction booklet with colour cover and spot-colour inside. It benefits from the same attention to detail that they have lavished on their other WWI kits, and you get a full model that includes engine and chassis details not supplied in some other manufacturer’s kits. Construction begins with the double ladder chassis with suspension and cross-rails included and adding the axles, brakes and drive-shafts, most of which are broadly familiar but a little odd looking into the bargain, especially the drum in the centre of the assembly, and the additional cross-mounted leaf-spring on the rear behind the back axle. At the front the steering linkage is added to the front axle, with the rear axle having a distinct offset to its differential housing, before the wheels are made up from three layers each plus hubcap, then fitted to each corner of the vehicle. The two-part radiator core has additional sides fitted then it is dropped into the front of the chassis, joined by the peculiar engine, which is very well detailed with almost 30 parts devoted to its construction. Once it is painted and in place a two-part linkage under the engine, and exhaust are threaded through the chassis and attached to the manifold outlets, with the diagram helpfully ghosting one of the wheels to improve your view. Chunky power transfer boxes are suspended from the underside of the chassis rails on a carrier with drive-shafts going to each of the axles, then up at the front the chassis is widened by adding tread-plated running board to the sides before beginning work on the cab and snub-nosed bonnet. This assembly also includes an engine cover that ends up with the crew sitting on it and in the gap between the cowling and radiator the crew have a small footwell with driver controls and a fire extinguisher present, louvered side panels to the cowling and cooling fan for the radiator that is surrounded by a shaped cowling that plugs into the back of the radiator later, bringing the cooling fan and belt into play. The fuel tank is made up from four sections plus two supports, then the lovely deeply upholstered crew bench-sofa is put together with moulded-in buttons giving it a Victorian drawing room feel. The steering wheel and control levers are added to the sides of the cowling, then the seat is dropped on top with a nice cosy fuel tank right behind it. The perfect cab - Exposed to the elements, high up and with extra heating in the summer, plus a big flammable tank right behind your seat if anyone takes pot-shots at you as you’re driving along. The old-skool carriage-style front lamps and U-mounted searchlight are put in place on the front and a stowage box is placed on the left foot-plate, presumably tied down so you don’t lose it on the corners, and the hand-crank starter can optionally be inserted into a socket on the front chassis rail if you wish. The 3-ton load bed begins with the floor and has five cross-beams slotted into position underneath, a front panel and two side panels that have braces moulded down the sides, adding stowage cubbies down the sides, for lantern-like parts, surrounded by a few pioneer tools on each side. The tilt on this boxing is of a different style to previous issues, and most of the parts can be found on the new sprue. The canvas is supported down the centre and forms a pitched roof to the area from one part, adding two ends, and drilling out several holes along the lower perimeter for tie-down ropes, which you will need to make from your own supplies. The completed cover is placed over the open load-bed, which can then be mated to the chassis by two lugs at each end, adding U-shaped carriage bolts from under the chassis to give the impression of a sturdier connection, finishing off with three brackets on each side of the chassis rails. Markings There are three decal options on the small sheet, two in green, one in a mixed camouflage with black dividers. From the box you can build one of the following: American Expeditionary Force, 1918 American Expeditionary Force, May 1918 US Ordnance Department, 1918 Decals are by ICM’s usual partners, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion An early truck that became a staple of the battlefield in WWI and beyond in injection moulded styrene with plenty of detail. It’s a nice kit and a further broadening of what’s available for WWI military modellers in 1:35. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

War Has No Gender (35755) Servicewoman of the Armed Forces of Ukraine 1:35 ICM via H G Hannants Ltd Since the invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, the Ukrainian armed forces have had to become their country’s protectors in the most practical manner, and it’s a job that they have taken to like the proverbial ducks to water, despite the ever-present danger. Their regular forces have been expanded by the general populace taking up arms against the invader, and that has included thousands of patriotic women, fighting side-by-side with their spouses, brothers, sisters, friends and colleagues as part of a truly modern armed force. The Kit This set arrives in a shallow top-opening box with a captive lid on the lower tray, and inside are three sprues of grey styrene, plus a single instruction sheet printed on glossy A4 in colour. On the sprues are four figures of female soldiers in various poses that are paired in different activities. One soldier is stood launching a drone from one hand, while the other is controlling a drone on a remote with legs crossed in front of her as she sits on the ground concentrating on the task in hand, with a stack of gear and another drone accompanying them. The other duo are both stood taking a selfie with a puppy that they have recovered from the rubble before they take it somewhere safer, in a lighter moment away from combat. All figures are wearing modern BDU pants, with a plate-carrier or tac-vest that carries magazines and other pouches, and the drone fliers are wearing a peaked cap to keep the sun out of their eyes, plus a pistol on a drop-leg holster for protection. The parts for each figure are found in separate areas of the sprue for ease of identification, and parts breakdown is sensibly placed along clothing seams or natural breaks to minimise clean-up of the figures once they are built up. The sculpting is typically excellent, as we’ve come to expect from ICM’s artists and tool-makers, with natural poses, drape of clothing and textures appropriate to the parts of the model. The accessories include rugged hard cases that are often used to store drones and other equipment when not in use, additional multi-part drones and control pads, a tactical pack, and four open-stock AK-74 derivatives with short barrels for personal defence. The figures have their own pouches, bags and ammo pouches to detail and personalise the models, which will come in particularly useful in a diorama situation. There are also a couple of covered helmets of modern design in case you want to swap out the peaked caps on the drone pilot duo. Markings The instructions show the part numbers in black, plus the colours that refer to a table overleaf, where you will find codes for ICM’s acrylic paint range, plus generic colour names in case you don’t use that brand. A swatch of digital camouflage is included on the instruction sheet, but if you don’t much relish the task of painting digital camouflage on the contours of your figures, you can pick up a set of Ukrainian camouflage decals from eBay, which I did immediately on receipt of the first set we reviewed. They are printed by Breeze Decals under the code BD35-001, and they were made in conjunction with our good friends at Dora Wings! Conclusion Some superb candidates for dioramas, or to pose on the decks of Ukrainian military vehicles if you don’t have the space or skills to create as passable diorama base. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of

ICM is to release in 2021 several variants from the Ryan Firebee. - ref. 48400 - Q-2A (AQM-34B) Firebee with trailer (1 airplane and trailer) Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48400 - ref. 48401 - Q-2C (BQM-34A) Firebee with trailer (1 airplane and trailer) Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48401 - ref. 48402 - Q-2A (XM-21, KDA-1) Firebee, US Drone (2 airplanes and pylons) Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48402 - ref. 48403 - Q-2C (BQM-34A) Firebee, US Drone (2 airplanes and pilons) (100% new molds) NEW - III quarter Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ICM48403 V.P.