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Everything posted by AndyRM101

  1. Looking forward to seeing it Keith The interior did have an oil wash to bring out the detail, probably with a dark grey or something similar. There was a little dry brushing over the seat pads and instrument panels. I don't think I did any pre-shading on the interior. The darker shading you can see around the green panels on the back wall was sprayed over the base coats with a thinned dark grey. Andy
  2. He's looking great Will. Red was definitely the right way to go for the hood and cloak. Andy
  3. Thanks guys. Yes, the glazes work really well for subtle weathering, especially on smaller scales. Before weathering the green areas, I attached the casemate and tail, the later with tiny drops of epoxy adhesive for more strength. After that, I worked up the shading on the green camo in the same way as was done over the sand, but with darker brown tones. The decals had also been added at this stage, although the only one on the hull is the code number on the front. Most of the detail painting has also been done, although I missed the sledge hammer on top of the hull, so that still needs doing. The track frames have been painted and weathered in the same way as the hull. These still need the road wheels and other details picking out. (excuse the giant 1/1 scale cat hair, they get everywhere) So, this is how it's looking at the moment, loosely clipped together. The tracks still need painting and weathering, and I've got a length of tiny 1.5mm brass chain which I'm going to attempt to hang over tail, attached via some even more tiny photo etched shackles... hmm, we'll see how that goes. More later Andy
  4. Nice start Nick, the interior's looking great. I'll follow this one with interest, as I've been thinking of picking up the Tiger VBL, or maybe the AMX-10 Andy
  5. What a great idea for a gift Matt. I hope they were suitable impressed. Belated congrats on the marriage. Andy
  6. Thanks everyone, So, on to the green camo. The previous sand paint was masked off with silly putty, which was flattened against the surface to get a hard edged demarcation. For the green, I used a mix of Mr Color Grass Green and Russian Green. I followed that up with some subtle highlighting with straight Russian Green. There are a few rough areas where I'd sprayed at an angle to the mask, causing a slight shadow effect. Overall, I'm not bothered though, as the real things were hand painted anyway, so the finish was never perfect. Next up will be the shading on the green areas, the decals, and the detail painting. More later Andy
  7. Lovely build Dennis, and great work on the muddy weathering. Andy
  8. Two little beauties Dan. The bases set them off really well. Andy
  9. It's looking fantastic Pete. I love the winter scheme. Regarding cutting the Meng bolts off the sheet - I always do it with a Swan Morton No. 15 blade, as it's small enough to get between the bolt heads without doing any serious damage to anything else. And I do it over a plastic tray to catch any escapees. Andy
  10. Yes, I hear these newfangled seeing glasses are all the rage these day Actually, I'd love to say I only use these, but I generally use headband magnifiers as well for the close up stuff Okay, straight on to the painting. I started off with a greeny-brown base coat, mixed from Mr Color lacquers. No particular rime or reason behind the colour, apart from the fact that the final colours will be sand and green, so this seemed like a reasonable base tone. The paint guide shows the common FT camo scheme of sand, green, and brown, but the box top shows a different sand and green scheme. Possibly one or other is more accurate - possibly neither, but I like the look of the box top camo, so that's the one I'm doing. I laid down the sand first, using Aqueous Radome. I didn't bother to attempt any kind of shading here - it's just a fairly solid coat over the upper hull and lower turret. As I said above, there was no attempt at shading with the base coats, as the model's just too small for that. All the panel shading is being done as a post effect using acrylics thinned with glaze medium, and some Citadel washes (used more as glazes). I'm using these to help differentiate the panels and highlight the rivets, and also to warm up and deepen the sand colour. My plan is to do all the shading, toning, and weathering with acrylics, rather than oils and enamels, something the glaze medium really helps with. The masking and the green camo will be up next. More later Andy
  11. Thanks Andrés, Yes, it's a tiny thing. It's got some great detailing though. Moving on to the tracks now. These come as inner and outer frames, with the inner frame having the inside faces of the track links moulded around the edge. There's a bit of photo etch for the transmission which gets sandwiched between the frame halves along with the drive sprocket and idler, then the whole assembly slides into the single-piece tracks run. The kit gives you the option of the early or later style idlers. I used the later style, which seemed more appropriate for the 75 BS. The PE transmission needs to be folded together so you can get detail on both sides, although it's virtually invisible on the finished model. The two finished track units, complete with tiny PE maker's plates. These aren't mentioned in the instructions, but they're included on the PE fret, and they really add an extra level of detail to the build. You get an option of plastic or photo etch for the tool box brackets on the hull side. I went with the plastic parts because I felt, despite them being a little chunky, they looked more realistic than the rather flat PE alternatives. There are also two slots on the hull where the plastic brackets attach which the PE versions wouldn't cover, and would therefore require a lot of fiddly filling and sanding. The tail skid would perhaps have been better in photo etch, but the plastic part isn't too bad, and is certainly less fiddly than dealing with PE. FT's often had a tarp folded over the tail, so I've added one here from lead foil. And that's pretty much all there is to the assembly. I've pieced it all together here, but the tracks, casemate, and tail are only loose fitted at this stage. They'll be removed to make painting a little easier. And the one tool without which I'd never be able to make this thing... The painting stages will be up next. Andy
  12. Sorry for the late response. It was indeed Gunze H70 RLM 02. I also use H32 Field Grey sometimes (K-2SO was painted with that shade), but the panzer grey used here was Vallejo 862 Black Grey. Andy
  13. This is a bit of an impromptu build, after I saw the kit for a very cheap price on ebay, ordered it on a whim, and started it the day it arrived. I wasn't originally planning on doing a wip, but I've been taking a few photos along the way, so I thought I may as well post them. I'm already up to the early weathering stages, after starting the build a few days ago, so it does go together pretty fast. The kit is Flyhawk's latest version of their tiny FT, this time with the 75mm gun and the fixed casemate in place of the original turret. As you can see from the box, this release, like the previous versions, is a '1+1 Double Ones' or, in plain English, you get two. For 12 quid including postage from China, I call that pretty good value. I'll post some sprue shots for anyone that's interested in the contents, then get onto the initial build. There's one main sprue that holds the running gear and hull details. Quite a few of the parts here are for the earlier versions of the FT, and aren't required for this build, so you do end up with quite a few spares. Being a double pack, you, of course, get two of these sprues. You get two smaller sprues, one of which is specific to the 75 BS. That one holds the new parts for the 75mm gun and casemate. The smaller sprue holds the early style wooden idlers. Again, two of each are included. The remaining parts are individual mouldings. Two hulls, two tails, two casemates, and two sets of tracks. Rounding out the contents are the instructions, which are simply a folded A4 sheet (although perfectly adequate for what is a very simple build), the decals, and two identical photo etch frets. And, so you can get an idea of just how tiny the model is, here's the hull next to a regular, industry standard, match (which I had to spend about an hour searching the house for) Okay, on to the build. The first step is to add all the additional panels to the main hull. The main hatches come with moulded tabs for the handles (not that big a deal in this scale), but you do have the option of slicing them off and replacing them with photo etched alternatives. The PE ones looked too 2D to me, plus they would be likely to snap off at a moments notice, so I drilled the hatches and used some 0.4mm copper wire instead. You do need to make one slight modification to the hull for this version, to allow the casemate to be fitted. The bottom of the turret ring is moulded as part of the hull, and the edges of that need to be trimmed away. It's not as difficult as it first seems, and the area that needs trimming is shown in the instructions. The plastic's quite soft, so you need to be careful not to accidentally remove too much, but otherwise it's fairly straight forward. It doesn't matter too much about any rough edges, since the casemate drops down over the trimmed area and hides any overzealous hacking. The casemate itself needs a few extra parts added, including a full set of separate hatches, meaning you could add a figure if you wanted (and if you could find a suitable one). I thought the tiny PE grills would be a nightmare to add, but they dropped into place perfectly with no fuss whatsoever. They do make a really nice detail on the finished build too. The 75mm gun is a very simple three-part construction, but looks great when build as well as remaining poseable I'll leave part one of the build there. As I mentioned above, I'm up to the early weathering stages now, but I'll post the updates in increments, rather than stick everything in one huge post. More later. Andy
  14. A fantastic build Rumblestripe. As Will mentioned, there are some lovely details across the model. I love the way you've painted the flames on the molotov cocktails. I've recently made a start on that one myself, and can confirm that it's an equally nice kit. Andy
  15. Beautiful build Andrés. The presentation with the base and name plaque are excellent. Andy
  16. Sublimely painted Will. I love the use of deep yellow as an accent colour. Andy
  17. Thanks for the info Will. I think I'm going to stick with glaze mediums and drying retarders for now, but I'll probably pick up some contrast paints in the future as there's some nice colours in the range. Andy
  18. What's your opinion on them beyond their intended use as a quick colour shade? From what I've seen they seem to essentially be a thick glaze, and I'm wondering how much use they'll be for more subtle shading and toning. Andy
  19. It's always a magic moment when the first coat of primer/paint goes on, and it all suddenly gels together. I think I like your version better than the original. The small turret/large body gives the whole thing a really interesting set of proportions. And I love the name. I feel like it should be painted nutmeg now. Andy
  20. A couple of possibilities Pete, using a regular nutcracker as a canvas Andy
  21. The paintwork looks excellent Andrés. Very neat work on the cockpit masking too. Andy
  22. Or a drop bear You might struggle to shift lacquers over hairspray unless it's a really light misted coat. Even then it may not chip very well. I tend to stick with acrylics for HS chipping, and thin them with water, rather than a proprietary thinner, to make the chipping process as easy as possible. You might get away with lacquers for salt chipping, but the paint might just glue the salt in place and make it very hard to remove without doing damage to the model. Love the build so far Andy
  23. It's really starting to come together now Pete. I love the way you've detailed the underside, and that exhaust does look rather spiffing. I assume you'll be masking it when you do the main painting? Speaking of painting, what colour scheme are you going with? Most of the nutcrackers I've seen seem to always be finished in a desert DAK scheme. Andy
  24. The figures do come as standard with this one Pete. They're shown on the box side and in the instructions. I think it was probably a late decision to include them and they forgot to change the box top info to suit. The figures are excellent, with very good sculpts. It's a very nice kit, but there is one problem with it (apart from the above mentioned incorrect blades), that being the instructions. There are quite a few alternate parts for the different marking options, but none are pointed out during the build. The lower nose panel is a case in point. There are two versions included, one with the FLIR mount and one without, but only the FLIR option is shown in the instructions, despite it only applying to two of the included schemes. The low vis grey option also needs a couple of apertures opening in the tail boom and two detail panels added, but the instructions show them already fitted with no mention of how they're fitted, and no mention that they only apply to that single version. Kitty Hawk really do need to pick up their game regarding instructions, as they seem to be a weak point in every kit they release. Andy
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