Fernando

Hallo, gentlemen, I have to make clear that I do not have the kit by Eduard in my possession, but I have built several Tamiya and Hobbyboss kits so as to have the shapes of the F4F embedded in my mind. I have been watching some pictures of the new Eduard kit. Is it me, or the nose seems too long and possibly a bit narrow (and therefore the windscreen looking too high)? What are your thoughts on the matter? I attach the link to the Modellversium ezine. https://www.modellversium.de/galerie/9-flugzeuge-ww2/17122-grumman-f4f-3-wildcat-eduard.html Fernando

Hi, gentlemen, Is there any indication of the Martlet IIIs (fixed wing,, upper lip carburettor, single cooling flap, blister, cuffed prop -just checking) actual colours when in 805/806 Sqn, FAA, service? The options I have found are: - Delivery colour of USN Light Grey M-485; - Middlestone (solid) uppers, LG lowers; - Middlestone/Dark Earth disruptive uppers, LG lowers; - Temperate Sea Scheme (LG lowers?) The Desert Scheme is quite interesting (though I would ask for some evidence, other than models and decal sheets) but the last scheme is the one that most interest me. I have read the machines were so repainted when taken to Mackinnon Rd. airfield, Nairobi. Is there any solid evidence of this repaint? Thank you, Fernando

"Why then are you asking the question?" Precisely because of that. Have a good day, sir. Fernando

Well, precisely not so. In a high exposure, grainy B&W photo, a metal blade tip would blend into the surrounding. The picture of the wreckage shows very well defined, dark prop tips, not Yellow, nor chipped. Take a look at it. Fernando

Thank you, Jim, quite reassuring about my feeling on the wrecks' photo. I would not say the tips on these were Yellow, they would look very different even in the conditions that photo was taken. I am more convinced about all Black propeller blades. Interesting comment on aluminum lacquer painted cuffs, as opposite to NMF: OTOS... early Martlet Is didn´t have a different, uncuffed propeller? Hamilton Standard, probably? For you are right, these would have been painted per British (and earlier French) specs and almost certainly these specified Yellow tips. Fernando

Hallo, gentlemen! I am currently building an F4F-3 (no, not the Eduard one...) as a machine in the ill-fated VMF-211 at Wake Island, and a sudden doubt crept in. How were the propeller tips painted? Tri-color, Yellow, or nothing? From the well known photo of the wrecks, the cuffs are undoubtely unpainted metal, the blades are Black also at the front, but no hint of the tips can be discerned. If any, that they were left in Black like the blades. However, the (in its time) well researched YellowWings Decals decal sheet (which I am using) suggests Tri color, and even supplies decals for that (rather big... almost a quarter of fifth of the blade...) Conversely, the new Eduard kit decal sheet comes with none of that, and a glance at the instructions sheet shows that it has no indication whatsoever (instead, the blades themselves have a raised panel that would indicate the Yellow tip?) What is the general knowledge on the matter? Thank you very much, Fernando

Hallo, gents, Is there any indication that this would be followed by a SBD-5 version? Fernando

Hallo, Gentlemen, Is by chance a 2000B/N/D planned by these talented people? Thanks Fernando

Hi, Tbolt, Those two pictures puzzle me. Sure are they Argentinean examples? Are they showing the same machine? See, the light series bomb carrier shown on the starboard wing in the first photo does not replicate on the port wing in the second. The wing gun is missing. The pants cover the wheels. Are the photos doctored in any way? Regards, Fernando

Hi, Tbolt, Beware that in the pictures of the supposed "flat" windscreen, what we are seeing might be just paralell vertical frames, and not a true flat windscreen (much like in P-40s). The base of the windscreen still seems curved in them all (in the kit the base is definitely straight) In the only picture clearly showing the base of the windscreen, these are undoubtely rounded. Moreover, there always looks to be some glass ahead of the frames, which hints at a curved surface. The serial numbers (assuming the manufacture and the s.n. adjudication was linear) do not agree to a modification in the production run (these planes were virtually individually hand-made, a modification is very possible) Might be a retrofit? No, unfortunately I cannot upload pictures from URL. Regards, Fernando

Hi, gentlemen! Unfortunately, the windscreen is incorrect for a H75O. It should be rounded á la P-36 or P-40B. Fernando

Hallo, Troy, For some reason, MAP shades in the Xtracrylix range usually do not match those in the Xtracolor one! MSG is noticeably lighter (though I fail to find that olive tint you mention). The same happens to Ocean Grey, while Dark Green lacks the Olive tint. Unfortunately, Xtracolour paints, being enamels, are not sent overseas any more. But bear in mind I said "Xtracolor". Regards, Fernando

Hallo, If having to go with a commercial brand MSG, I would go with Xtracolor. I am surprised that you did not consider it among the colour samples. Fernando

Hi, gentlemen, I am usually satisfied using FS 36231 as AMT-11, 36081 as AMT-12, and RLM78 (or old Model Master "Russian Undersurface Blue") for AMT-7. Regarding the bluish tone of -11, some instructions sheets (Zvezda) gives FS35237 as the equivalent. Any brand. Regards, Fernando, locked at Buenos Aires

Because it is not your fault... but your choosing of a kit to build is yours. Many modellers wouldn't buy or build a kit with a glaring shape error, even if it builds up smoothly. Or would take pride in correcting the error, though the final result would not be so tidy as an OOB build. Different approaches to modelling. Fernando, locked up at home in Buenos Aires

Hallo, gentlemen, More than shorter it looks like the fin leading edge has a different angle. FErnando

Hallo, gentlemen, Is there any information about when the Germans started stenciling "Keine Bombe" ("Not a bomb") in their drop tanks? Obviously when air war started to occur over Germany in earnest, but I am building some models which would cover the critical period, that is, second half 1943, and some precision would be useful. Also, if there was some difference to be made according to the theater of operations (MTO or Ostfront later than Home?) Thank you for your attention, Fernando, locked in Buenos Aires

Hi, Spooky56, AFAIK there is no "RF-4EJ Kai". The "RF-4EJ" (that is, the fighter F-4EJ assigned -rather than "converted"- to the recce role) are precisely airframes that were set aside when the original "Kai" conversion, and were later assigned to the recce role out of storage. They kept the EJ equipment and abilities, their recce capability being solely "pod-based". Cfm. JBaugher site. Fernando

M8, it has been rather long in the tooth. Interior is non-existent and the intake has no attempt at trunking or blanking. Exhaust is very primitive also. Tons of aftermarket are needed. That said, it is an entirely correct kit. Regards

Hallo, gentlemen, Has anyone any indication whether any manufacturer is foreseeing producing a new mould F-16A/B (AM/BM, MLU, etc.)? The ones available have been long in the tooth. I understand the C/D and derivatives are more enticing nowadays, but a good A/B would allow some different opportunities. Regards, Fernando

Hallo, gentlemen, I am working on an Eduard 1/48 109G-4 and plan to finish it as a G-4/R6 in RA service, either from 364° or 365° Squadriglia. I have enough problems trying to pinpoint a G-4, as most of the aircraft in pictures are G-6 (very logical, as most of the aircraft were G-6s). My question is: the German insignia were reportedly painted over in Grigio Azzurro Chiaro; this colour, roughly equivalent to FS36307, is a bit darker than RLM76 but much lighter than RLM75. Now, in fuselage especially, the contrast is not so great (on wings it is much more difficult to ascertain due to tha angle of the wings) It has been said that the GAC base was oversprayed in a darker colour: Verde Oliva Oscuro is the prime pick, which is a very dark colour. However, a color picture of "365-1", though it shows some very dark mottles, seems to show mostly Dark Grey overspray of the GAC zone on fuselage. At the same time, the upper wing surface shows the GAC zone and might have some mottling in a dark colour, but nothing can be ascertained. Other machines do show a dark overspray, but neither shows definitely VOS (z.B. "365-14", a G-6/R6 Trop). Even a picture which may be "364-5" ( in D'Amico's book) shows a sparse dark mottle (VAC? RLM70?), but not necessarily covering the GAC. A dark Grey colour could have been used, be RLM75 (if available, probably not) or even Grigio Mimetico (a bit like FS36231). IMHO, VOS is very dark and the contrast would show even in grainy B&W pictures (it does, actually) Cannot say the picture below is not a colorized one; a B&W version exists. Is there any consensus on the matter among the readership? Thanks in advance, Fernando

Hallo, gentlemen, Has anyone seen the 104S? Regards Fernando

Hallo, gents! What I have read about the wings is that they were structurally made to stay folded most of the times, and that keeping them permanently unfolded created structural problems; therefore, they started to store the aircraft with wings folded. But I cannot assure this, of course. Besides... the under wing roots seem molded together to the central belly part (i.e., the bomb bay) beyond the folding line... are we meant to perform some surgery to pose them folded? Regards! Fernando

Hallo, gentlemen, Having recently put my hands on the MIIIEA from this manufacturer, I can hardly wait for this issue. However, I hope that a two seater is being planned for the near future; a M2000N/D would be great. We only have the Revell offering which can be built but it is a couple generations back. Anyone has any gossip on this? Fernando

Hallo! The part is there, it is "I13", just in between the exhausts and the drop tank halves. It goes from the inside blocking the holes; in between them, there is an ejection mark that would craze the fit, but you could simply erase it. For sure you would have to fill them a bit. Fernando