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About Fernando

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    Bonn, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Deutschland

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  1. Hallo, everyone, Spinners and tail "Fighter Command" bands were also in Sky (I mean the "regular" Sky Type S) or were painted Sky Blue at some time? Fernando
  2. Hallo, everyone, My guess was always "a colour very similar to Roundel (dull) Blue". I feel it has the exact amount of desaturation. In most pictures of Hurricanes so painted it barely discerns if at all from the top wing roundel; a thin Yellow ring deemed necessary to separate them. Fernando
  3. Hallo, IMHO, Japanese aircraft decking (as opposed to cockpits) were seldom if ever in the "interior colour" (that is, unless it was the same as in the exterior -not an uncommon occurrence). A6Ms were Black in the early overall Light Olive Green scheme or Black/exterior colour in the Dark Green uppers painted ones. Excuse me for not quoting the exact Japanese name for the former (be it Ame-iro, Hairyokushoku, or something else -not getting in to that debate) So I would go safely with the exterior colour. Fernando
  4. Hallo, everyone, A small contribution regarding colours. The colour in the inner circle of the insignia is called "India White", and it is obtained by mixing four parts White one part Roundel Blue. It certainly looks tantalizing similar to Azure Blue, especially in some decal sheets. The explanation for the light circle obliterating the European roundel might be (helped by a bit of overexposing in the picture) that the factory colour in the wing is most probably ANA 603 Sea Grey (a Dark Sea Grey look alike -not EDSG) while, for some reason, it seems that most roundel repainting in "naval" camouflaged machines (such as those of FAA) was done with MAP Dark Slate Grey, which, especially in Black&White picture, looks lighter. The darker square at the wing's central section trailing edge is most probably related to the wish to obscure the exhausts' fumes dirt. It might well be MAP EDSG, which is darker than ANA 603. Hope that helps, FErnando
  5. Hallo, Shatters, Do you have any PRU Blue? It should be "just a bit less bluish" than that. Fernando
  6. Hi, Stuart, There are two or three noticeable stages, IMHO. First, aircraft "bought/ordered" BEFORE the US entered the war were painted in the schemes and colours ordered by the customer, the MAP. The actual paints were made in the US and were the best effort to approximate to the British colours. Including interiors. Be aware that the US did not "paint" its aircraft at the time (they were mostly NMF) including interiors. The USAAC used temporary paints to camouflage its aircraft for specific uses (see the famous P-36 row) and learned about "permanent camouflage" when they saw the Hudsons built for the RAF (or so it is said). These colours are colloquially referred as "equivalent" colours. Many factories that started delivering aircraft to the Brits at this stage carried over the "colours" into the next (i.e. Grumman); they have already a stock or steady supply of paint. Second, when the US entered the war, aircraft were produced in both US and British camouflage schemes. There was a movement to standardize the colours (though not the schemes) used for both US and export aircraft, which ended in the famous Bulletin ANA 157 of 1943. In it all the colours used by all services in both countries were reviewed and overlapping colours were eliminated (it generated some resistance and the old colours were kept whenever possible) Factories starting production at this stage used this set of colours, even if they were producing aircraft previously designed and produced by another factory (thus, an Eastern built Wildcat has different colours than an almost contemporary Grumman one -though not necessarily different schemes- not for this cause, at least). These are referred as "substitute" colours (i.e., American colours substituted MAP colours). INteriors were invariable in the US colours. Third, in 1944 the USAAF decided not to camouflage its aircraft anymore, reverting to NMF, with some exceptions, among those was "export aircraft". These were painted either in MAP schemes with "substitute" colours if carry overs from the earlier phase (Mustngs), or directly in the former USAAC scheme of OD/NG (i.e., P-40s and B-25s) Adding to this, there were instances in which aircraft were totally or partially repainted in the UK, such as P-40s in Desert Scheme (only the Middlestone), P-39s and Mustangs (complete repaint). This may or not affect wheel wells and other "almost interior" parts. FErnando
  7. Hi, pigsty, Guess I am resurrecting both this thread and an Italeri Puma I found somewhere inside the moving boxes (Karton der Umzug?) Have you advanced/finished your build? what reaaaaaally puzzles me (beside many, many small things) is that the roof plate of the hull, where the turret ring is, does not match the hull opening, being too long ad too thin! Is/was that the same in your example? Thank you, Kumpel FErnando
  8. Hi, Hamiltonian, My practice has always been painting the stripes (be them single color or "invasion") after the FIRST camouflage colour, usually the lighter one. You can use it as a handy "preshade", giving you "instant fading" of the stripes, and you do not risk the boundary of the colours (in case it is "hard") showing off. Then, mask the strip and apply the second camouflage colour. FErnando
  9. Hi, planehazza, In 1/48 go no further. Get the Tamiya kit and just build what they propose. Keep in mind they are very detail-specific to the individual airframes they are depicting in their decal sheet. There is no other F-16 kit with the "detail/good fit of the Tamiya range" (of any subject!). If you really need a spine/CFT equipped model, you have to add tons of resin aftermarket (of dubious fit) or risk a Kinetic kit (in itself not an impossible proposition, but not so well detailed/good fitting) In 1/72nd, the Tamiya again rules for a C Blk 50; again, the kit is very airframe-specific for a USAF plane. The Revell AG kit is a bit more flexible but lacks some detail accuracy if building a C, though it can be coaxed into a Blk 52. HOwever, for a A/A Plus/AM/B and derivatives it still rules. The advantage is that the small scale allows fuzzier detail to pass muster; therefore, ill fitting or not-so-well-defined spines or CFT or relatively inaccurate small detail could look acceptable. Kinetic kits are reasonably detailed accuracy wise for modern Blk 52 + ships but they have a very imprecise fit (not to say they are real pigs -nothing impossible, though. I tried one: https://modelingmadness.com/review/mod/us/usaf/rol16d.htm) Revell's was a pleasure to build, instead: https://modelingmadness.com/review/mod/us/usaf/rol16b.htm) Hope that helps. Fernando
  10. Hi, aidy, If the situation in 48th scale is the same as in the 72nd kit, all the pieces for a "normal" F+ should be there. Just get the instructions of the proper version and follow them. In 72nd scale most US Navy boxings of the kit came with the old-style heat exchangers, instead of the "pipe-rack" new style ones. Therefore, I opted for getting a Growler and "backdating" it. Having the instructions was enough, the box included the complete F+ kit plus the parts to convert it into a Growler. Fernando
  11. Hi, everyone, I seem to remember that an old Aeromaster ("Foreign Hurricanes") came with this option. It was a IIc without the Vokes filter and OG/DG camouflage. The elephant came in Red, if memory serves me well. FErnando
  12. Hi, Etiennedup, Agree, "looks like" colorized. FErnando
  13. Hi, everyone, This thread would be a cold water shower to anyone wishing to build a RNZAF Corsair using Ventura's decals. V4880 is by far the most widespread sheet, TMK. Amazing that Aeromaster (aka "Errormaster") got the Blue right in their old Special multi-sheet. I got the 72nd scale version and ditched it into the "Not for Use" file owing to its dark look! Have you seen an example of it, LSDModeller? Fernando
  14. Hi, Bruce, When attempting my own F, I followed that same route, but used the resin nose. A lot of reshaping at the back of the nose was needed, and pictorial evidence is very scarce. The resulting model can be seen here: http://hsfeatures.com/features04/p40ffr_1.htm FErnando
  15. Hi, Tiger331, By far the simplest thing would be grabbing one of those resin noses once marketed by Aeromaster, by Hi-Tech or present in some AmTech kits. They are much better than the original F/L kit nose. Fernando
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