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JohnWS

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Everything posted by JohnWS

  1. Terrific build. Love the photos of the 'B' & HDML.
  2. I decided to take a detour & focus on the muffler assemblies, rudders & propellers. I came across a copy of Elco Parts Catalog & found detailed line drawings of the exhaust muffler assembly. As a result, I was able to make a couple of simple details to the kit parts - attachment flanges & butterfly valve operating levers; The kit rudders required a some reshaping the match the actual pt boat rudders; When cleaning up the three kit propellers, I found the centre hub on one of the propellers was molded incorrectly, resulting in the hole for the propeller shaft being off centre. I re-shaped the hub with putty & then drilled the hole for the shaft in the correct location; Now, back to deck ... John
  3. Hello everyone! Yes, it's another torpedo boat. This time, I'm attempting to scratch build a late model Elco 80' boat, circa 1945. There is a lot of reference materials for these boats in books & on the 'net, so this should be a fun & relatively easy build (famous last words ). Some of you may recall that the hulls for my previous two torpedo boat builds were carved from a cedar fence post. But this time, I going to take a shortcut and use the hull from a Revell PT 109 plastic kit. This is an old kit, that's been reviewed & built many, many times. I saw this kit at an antique market and I couldn't pass it up for the price. The quality of kit leaves a little to be desired, and the plastic parts are a little smaller than 1/72 scale. But, the kit should serve my needs. To begin this build, I made a stand from a 3/4"x4" piece of oak trim, using two finishing nails to attach the hull to the oak stand. [/url] Next, I drilled holes in the bottom of the plastic hull to match the location of the nails. Two pieces of plastic tubing were glued over the holes to strengthen the hull and to guide & support the nails. [/url] I found layout drawings for the Elco boat on the Internet, and printed them out in 1/72 scale, for reference. I used the drawings to identify what I will need to change on the 109 kit, to upgrade it to the 1945 model. The major changes involve modifying the kit deck to remove the Oerlikon gun mount at the stern and the support structures for the torpedo tubes. [/url] Removing those items will require major surgery. So instead, I decided to make a new deck and will build the superstructure & deck fittings from scratch. I made the new deck by gluing pieces of Evergreen plastic sheet together. I ended up laminating pieces of .040", .030", and .015" sheets (available at the local hobby store) to give enough thickness so I could contour the deck surface. The Revell deck was used to trace the shape on the plastic sheet, and the size was checked against the the plan drawings. It was a little bit of a battle to glue the new deck to the plastic hull, as the hull was twisted in the box. Luckily my new deck is strong enough so I could bend the hull to the proper shape when glueing it to the deck over the course of three days. After a quick start, the rest of this build will be slowed down over the next few weeks due to Christmas activities & while I wait for a few purchased items. Hopefully, I'll have some updates soon. Thanks for looking in. Cheers! John
  4. Revell 1/144 Corvette

    Me too!
  5. Work on the deck hardware & vents continues. Three vents are located on the forward deck & one on the port side of the bridge. These vents are similar to the British designed MTB's vents, but the air inlets are rectangular instead of round. An additional vent is located ahead of the starboard MG turret. These deck vents were made from plastic sheet. Four mushroom vents (two to be located amidships & two near the stern) were made from plastic tube & straight pins. Here's a photo of the deck hardware & vents completed to date, ready for a coat of primer; And a photo a deck hardware & vents with primer applied; I'm using the exhaust mufflers from the Revell kit. I thought this would be easy, but I ended up spending over two hours scraping, filing & sanding the exhaust parts to remove mold lines & flash. Once this was done, I drilled out the exhaust pipes for added detail. Here's a photo of the muffler parts waiting to be primed; Next up, more work on the deck including adding bases for the gun mounts. Thanks for looking in. John
  6. Thanks for the suggestion Jim. I knew that the 78' Higgins PT boats in the Med had the yellow & red markings (link to restored PT 305) but wasn't aware that the 80' Elco's had them, as well. Those markings brighten up the grey paint schemes. John
  7. HMCS Eyebright - Camouflage scheme?

    My go-to reference book for RCN corvettes is 'Canada's Flowers History of the Corvettes of Canada 1939-1945', by Thomas G. Lynch, ISBN 0-920852-15-7. The book includes a port side photo of Eyebright in the same camo pattern shown in the above photos, & with the following caption, "HMCS Eyebright, May 1943. ... Ship is overall off-white with light Admiralty Disruptive pattern, with medium grey over off-white." John
  8. I got a surprise in the mail today. Mainly because we don't normally get mail delivery on Sundays. In November, I placed an order on Amazon for an inexpensive Tamiya dust cover/display case for the PT Boat model. Apparently, this size case has been discontinued & unavailable in North America, and needed to be shipped from Japan. I'm usually wary of ordering stuff directly from Asia, but the price made it worth the gamble. I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived today, well within the promised delivery time. The packaging was great and the case is in pristine condition - no chips or scratches. Now I can make as much of a mess as I want during the build & not worry about getting the model too dirty.
  9. Revell PT 109.

    Looks great!
  10. Time again to try to decide on the colour scheme for this model. I've been flip-flopping between the green Pacific camo & overall grey scheme (dark on horizontal surface & light on vertical). I'm concerned the green camo scheme will be a wee bit much for a small model like this one and will hide (camouflage) a lot of the detail. I like the grey scheme as it looks like it would provide a good contrasting background to show off the weapons & other equipment. As mentioned in an earlier post, I want this model to show what these Elco boats looked like late in WWII, with maximum weaponry, as well as being as historically accurate as possible. The majority of these later boats were sent to the Pacific theatre in the green camo scheme. Most of the grey boats served in the Mediterranean & the English Channel. The grey boats were mostly earlier Elco versions with less weaponry than those serving in the Pacific. Also, earlier I found photos of the boats assigned to MTB training squadron PTRon 4 in what looked liked an overall monotone grey paint scheme but additional black & white photos I found show these boats in what I'm guessing to be an overall monotone dark green scheme. After doing some more research, I think I found a good candidate for a late model boat, with maximum weaponry, and with the grey paint scheme. First some history (with help from Navsource.org) to help the thought process (I think our arctic sub-zero temperatures are starting to affect my brain ) ... - the last group of 22 Elco 80' PT boats were laid down & launched in 1945. - the 1945 boats were assigned hull numbers 601 to 622. - most of these boats were assigned to the Pacific fleet, painted in the green camo scheme & including a full complement of weaponry - four 21 inch torpedoes, a 37mm canon, a 20mm Oerlikon, a 40mm Bofors, four .50 cal machine guns, & two rocket launchers. - none of these boats saw action as WWII hostilities had ended. - four boats PT's 613, 616, 619 and 620 remained in service under the USN's Operational Development Force, and were the last WWII PT's in service in the US Navy. - by the early 1950's, most of 22 boats had been either sold, designated as radio controlled target vessels, or transferred to the Republic of (south) Korea Navy or the Norwegian Navy. - later photos of the PT's 616, 619 & 620, that were transferred to the ROK, show the boats painted in an overall grey paint scheme. It appears some weapons had been removed or relocated as well. So after all this, I think I'm going to make my boat resemble PT 620 in an overall grey scheme, in it's original factory weapons configuration, and prior to it being transferred to Korea ... at least until I change my mind ... again. John
  11. Thanks Stuart, and Happy New Year to you.
  12. Making the little mooring deck pieces. I'm going to repurpose the two Revell kit's molded fairleads. Luckily, I was able to cut them off the kit's deck & will be able to use them on the stern of the new deck. The Revell PT 109 kit includes three mooring bitts. My model is of a later boat & requires five mooring bitts - one on the bow, two amidships & two at the stern. Using the kit parts as a guide, I've made the two additional bitts from plastic rod, cut strips, & punched discs. Here's a photo showing the new parts; Next up, it's the deck vents. John
  13. Unfortunately, I've had a couple of bad experiences with Shapeways, so they're not on my 'approved' vendor list right now.
  14. A tiny update - making Deck Cleats. The model will have four cleats, 2 at the bow, & 2 amidships. The actual cleats were 13 1/4" long, the same length as this model. I made them from pieces cut from plastic sheet. The 13 1/4" length scales down to approx. .18" ... pretty small. Here's a photo of one of completed cleats; I made 10 cleats, 6 turned out relatively good, & I'll be using the 4 best for the model. [/url] Now it's time to rest my old eyes, before attempting to make two additional deck mooring bitts. Thanks for looking in. John
  15. Hi everyone! This is my first Ready for Inspection – Maritime thread. I thought I’d share an old build of mine that was built and then reworked over a period of 33 years – a Fairmile ‘D’ Motor Gun Boat. I’ve always been a fan of the Coastal Forces, and especially the Fairmile D dog boat, for as long as I can remember. I started thinking about building a Fairmile D gun boat in the early 1970’s. At the time, there were only a couple of Vosper MTB plastic kits available, but no Fairmile D kits. As a result, I decided to scratch build the model – my first attempt at scratch building. Little detailed information available about the dog boats at the time, other than a few black & white photos. I was able to purchase two small Coastal Forces handbooks to help with the build - WARSHIPS OF WORLD WAR II, Part Seven: Coastal Forces by H.T. Lenton & J.J. Colledge, and Royal Naval Coastal Forces 1939-1945 by A.J.D. North. Compared to today, there were few aftermarket modeling materials available. So, I decided to look around the house to see what materials I could use for the build. I ended up using a 4x4 cedar fence post for the hull, wood thread spools for the gun turrets, straight pins for stanchions, balsa wood, cedar wood remnants for the ready use lockers, paper card, plastic sprue, brown, grey & black thread, brass eyelets for port holes. steel washers for life rings, plastic spatula handles for the deck air vents, various sizes of copper wire, window screen, Humbrol paints, and a lot of guess work. The only aftermarket kit parts used were two sailors from a Vosper MTB kit. Here’s a photo of the end result, completed in 1975; Moving ahead to 2007, John Lambert had already published his books - The Fairmile ‘D’ Motor Torpedo Boat, and Allied Coastal Forces of World War II, Volume I. I purchased the books and found all the information needed (& wish I had in 1975) to build a detailed model dog boat. Rather than building new, I started tearing apart the old 1975 model, rebuilding it to John Lambert’s sketches & drawings, and again using items found around the house; During the build, I was lucky to make e-mail contact with John Lambert, who offered great insight and assistance with my build. Here are photos of the end result, completed in 2008; ... and a photo of my MGB in virtual water using Photoshop. As I mentioned earlier, this was my first attempt at scratch building a model. It looks pretty hokey by today's modelling standards, but it stoked my enthusiasm for future builds (including a MTB build completed this year, using a remnant from that same fence post used for the Fairmile ‘D’ build). Thanks for looking in. John
  16. Congratulations on your retirement Kev, & welcome to the club!
  17. BPBC 466-MTB

    Looks good, beefy. It's hard to get the size perfect. Any smaller than you have will make them almost invisible to the eye once the hull's painted. BTW not sure if you've finished but, just in case, there's two more on the port side - one between & below the two in your photo & one near the bow. John
  18. I don't think I'll be adding the Thunderbolt, but thanks anyway Kev. As far as weapons are concerned, when I started this build I wanted to go with a late model PT boat having a 40mm Bofors, 37mm canon, plus the typical PT boat armament - Oerlikon, machine guns & roll-off torpedos. Right now, it looks like grey is my colour of choice, but I still want to include all the weapons. That's limiting my choice of boats. Most of the boats serving in the Channel & Mediterranean did not have the full suite of weapons. One possibility is PT 545 (link to photo of PT 545 in the Welland Canal). PT 545 was assigned to MTB training squadron PTRon 4. It was grey overall & fully armed. The selection process continues ...
  19. BPBC 466-MTB

    beefy, nice to see your build is on the mend ... and hopefully your thumb is too.
  20. Not too sure about that. She's kept me around for a very long time. No imagining. There's a couple of photos on the 'net showing PT-109 being stowed on board the liberty ship SS Joseph Stanton. Reading about the Mediterranean boats piqued my interest. Only 12 80' Elco's in the Mediterranean, & some had custom features that made them unique, e.g. aft pair of torpedos were relocated nearer the stern, some boats had the thunderbolt gun (4 Oerlikons & 2 machine guns mounted together), etc. I like the idea of a unique build, so we'll see where this takes me.
  21. I did a little research about the 'grey' 80' Elco's. Apparently there were three USN MTB squadrons, one (12 boats) assigned to the Mediterranean, and two (24 boats) assigned to the English Channel. - MTB RON 29: Elco 80' PT's 552-563 assigned to the Mediterranean under British Coastal Forces - decommissioned in 1944. - MTB RON 34: Elco 80' PT's 498-509 assigned to the English Channel - decommissioned in 1945. - MTB RON 35: Elco 80' PT's 510-521 assigned to the English Channel - decommissioned in 1945.
  22. Thanks Kev. That's two votes for grey ... you & my wife. My wife is the interior decorator in our house. She said a grey PT boat would match my other models & fit the colour scheme in my man cave. Here's a photo of my Elco hull with it's final coat of primer. You can really see its British Power Boat heritage. I think so. A number of the 80' Elco's were shipped to the UK to take part in the D-Day invasion. They were grey, as well. The father of a friend in the US served in the Elco's in WWII, and was on one of those Elco's in the Channel.
  23. Thanks guys for the feedback. I've filled the gaps, mostly between the hull & new deck. Time for another coat of primer. I'm undecided right now whether to add the final paint to the hull, or continue building the deck superstructure & fittings. If I go the painting route, I've got to decide if it'll be the green camo scheme that was usually applied when the Pacific boats were in service, or with the solid grey colour applied at the factory. The green camo looks sharp, and most models of these boats have it. The grey is easiest, and would make the model look a little different than most. Decisions, decisions. What do you think?
  24. Moving ahead ... slowly. I've added some hull details to the bow, including attaching the foot rails to the deck, & adding a copper wire towing eye plus a reinforcement plate cut from plastic sheet. A mooring eye (plastic tube) & metal wear plate (wine bottle foil) added to the tip of the bow. A few vents & discharge outlets, cut from plastic sheet & stretched plastic sprue, were glued to both sides of the hull. I'm using the Revell kit propeller shaft struts. These were molded with a gap on one side, plus they had relatively large injection molding marks. A little putty & sanding made them ship shape before gluing them to the hull. Next, I've put on a light coat of rattle can grey primer. (I'm not a fan of the kit's dark green plastic , so it's nice to see some of it gone.) I added the primer to hi-lite any gaps & rough spots. Unfortunately, I found a few . So, next up I'll be puttying & sanding to clean up the hull. Thanks for checking in. Merry Christmas & Season's Greetings everyone, and lets hope for a prosperous & trouble-free 2018. John
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