boom.boom

Beautiful in every way

Outstanding job 🥇 I like the job done on the cowling a lot. Would you please tell us a little more about it?

Just OUTSTANDING from every point of view 🥇

Love it! Just that, love it... 🤩

I am planning to buy a Sopwith Strutter in 1/32 to make one of the Serbian machines on the Macedonian front. By looking at the excellent book Wings of Serbia {Крила Србије-Борис Циглић; Krila Srbije-Boris Ciglić}, realized that the Serbian planes were the French version of the Sopwith 1/2 Strutter, or correctly, the Hanriot Sop 1 A2 {specific aircraft of interest}. With that in mind, I have a few dilemmas: 1. The picture shows that the plane was equipped with a French version of the Vickers machine gun, but I cannot determine whether it is with or without the upper cocking handle {characteristic only for French Vickers}? 2. What was the windshield like on the Sop 1A2? 3. Which seat is installed? Like on Hanriot machines {HD1 or so} or Wickers one {and eventually which Wickers exactly}? 4. Which belts are installed? French or RFC? 5. The mount for the observer's machine gun is French {Nieuport type?} but which machine gun is mounted on it? 6. Is silver coated linen more likely {usually for Hanriot?} or CDL? 7. What exactly did the marking of the device number on the tail of the plane look like? 8. Which engine would be installed on Sop 1A2? 9. Are there any other specifics in relation to the British Strutter? Sorry for the amount of questions, but I hope that and others will benefit from this topic. Greetings from Belgrade.

Beautiful bird Goran. Weathering is done just right. 🥇

Andrey, this one is truly a GEM! 🥇

This one definitely goes for references 💪. Thank you Andrey 👍

Beautiful model and subject Andrey 🥇

You are more than welcome Ron. All the best, Bojan

I do understand pain. Flying panel lines are just kill off on the model. The most important thing IMHO for scribing is not to use predominantly dedicated scribing tools but SEWING NEEDLE FOR LEATHER {the long one, long more than 10cm or 4''}. This is THE ONLY tool that will give you full control of movement. Scribing tools are good in some cases like straight lines {but not great} or for easy of work {if you do not lose control of it} but a sewing needle has freedom of movement in all directions and from a point. Handling is natural, like pencil or so. You could use smaller needles with the support of a pin vise but I do like just a big needle. The best thing is to fix your ruler by taping it or to use Dymo tape. I have made a curve ruler from transparent film {thicker one, from some old shirt packing}. The problem with a needle is that you have to do multiple passes and sanding because the needle does not carve but more imprints its mark in the plastic. You can use some extra thin cement in very light passes to tame engraved line. It is a little more time-consuming process but much more precise and controllable. Not very modest of me but I consider myself a very good at scribing.

And if you let it to cure hard {or it is a usual one, hard curing type of CAs} it is perfectly fine {at least to me}. Yes, maybe little harder to sand it but IMO better base for fine scribing.

Kill me if I understood too??? This is so difficult to do {to repair that panel line/join} in a proper manner that it is a real pain in the XXX. In the majority of such situations, super glue base is the way to go and then...

Nice looking Saeta

Great looking model and such OUTSTANDING SUBJECT ... I am also in the finishing process of Chinese I-16 Type-10 {Ark Models 1/48} . On the other side, IMHO it could benefit from some weathering. I would like to give You kudos for the good painting scheme {probably good considering the period} Once again, for the model and the subject 🥇