Mike

He's handy to have around that Ed, innit?

You're making it up, you weirdo! I've got some shots of 558's bay & the one at Cosford. I'll dig them out & add to this posting, then shove it in a walkaround if you're agreeable Smiffster?

Oooh, blimey... Weapons aren't my strong point. Something big & evil looking would be good though, and extra-pointy to cope with the high speeds.

Don't knock yourself fella... that looks pretty good from where I'm sitting.

Al - have you thought about some careful masking & touching in some more yellow on the gappy areas? It's a great build otherwise, so don't be too hard on yourself either way

Andy - you've gotta have a wraparound Vulcan stylee scheme. It's contemporary, innit? btw - apologies for not congratulating you on another nice whiffer

A camouflaged Concorde, eh? Now there's a thought!

In that case Dan, there's a coffee tax next time you come over. 1 Apache buys you all the coffee you can drink

Knew I could rely on you

Or is that the Dutch one? If not, then also! Is there an accurate Apache to do in UK colors? I don't know whether there's much (if any difference) between models Thought this was another WIP thread from you for a minute... was just about to congratulate you on an excellent box shot

Pr.9.... now don't you forget my pre-order Bill!

I've seen LOTS of photos with the canards in the forward deflected position on my travels. Seems to be the way it's done - possibly for the reasons M. Bentwaters said

You're too kind for some reason

How do you make a Canberra go woof?

But his name's Dan? What's all the grey stuff on the front Sis? Is it armour or sticky-backed plastic?

Lookin' good Sis, but correct me if I'm wrong, but that's no Buccaneer! Nice work on the PE old fruit... we'll make a modeller of you yet!

If your brush has dried a bit stiff, it's cos there's probably a little melted plastic on it. What melts plastic like a good'un? Liquid poly! Swish it round a bit til it's soft again, then draw all the liquid out by pulling it through some kitchen towel. Simple!

Across is usually best if you have the space, but don't forget to try & retain the contour of the parts you're sanding, or you'll end up with a flat spot. I tend to use sanding sticks to get the majority of the excess material off, then switch to sanding sponges (Hiroboy & MDC do good cheap ones), to get the shape back to how it should be & remove all the scratches left over by the sanding sticks. You can then squirt a little primer at it to expose any bits that might need some more work.

I'd dip the paint back in the liquid glue until it's nice & soft (don't let the bristles rest on the bottom though), and then wipe it clean on a piece of kitchen towel. That should return it to 99% of its former glory You should try a Touch'N'Flow applicator from our friends at Aeroclub. It's a glass tube with a tiny steel tube applicator. it's great for applying small drops of liquid glue, and capillary action does the rest. I don't know where I'd be without mine now. I think they're about a fiver each, and you'll soon get through that much value in brushes, as they tend to lose their "nature" by constant dipping in glue. If you do get one... don't leave it on the bench, as it'll roll off & smash - ask Nige. I keep mine upright in half of its packing tube, which is velcroed to the side of my spray booth near my tool rack. Stops it going anywhere, and if you store it applicator tube up, it reduces the instances of it clogging with glue debris

Here is a very useful tutorial by Swanny that will guide you through the process - Future is the US name for Klear in case you didn't know. I'd say it was still covered in mould release agent. It's good practice to wash all your sprues before you start a model (especially resin bits), in warm soapy water. If you've forgotten & are having trouble getting paint to stick, I'd give it a wipe with some Isopropyl Alcohol, being careful not to get it on any painted surfaces, as it could marr the paint

He's going to BUILD it!

Coincidentally, there's an article on building a Mk1 Merkava in this issue of the IPMS newsletter... if you're a member or know one, give it a squint, as there are lots of tidbits of info on updating & accurizing (hate that word) the kit to the correct standards.

This could be fun... get on with it!