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John Aero

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John Aero last won the day on January 5 2015

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About John Aero

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  1. Percival with a 'C' not an 'S'. Eugen , I will be in touch. John
  2. John Aero

    Modelling in Wood - discuss!

    I'm surprised that this thread is still going. Carving a model from wood is so cheap, all it needs is the will to find a piece of suitable material and a subject and have a go. In the first instance, Balsa is the easiest to obtain but it requires the most finishing because of the grain and it's softness. I used to finish mine with Cellulose dope with talc mixed in. It dries quickly and sands to a silky finish. When I went onto Lime wood I used Banana Oil and Talc which is a non shrinking type of dope. All these items with the exception of Lime wood (English Limes grow in most parks ) were obtainable from most flying model shops. Most pattern makers shops now tend to use only polyurethane machinable boards such as Renshape or Prolab 65. Most of the big resin and composite suppliers have their own brand. They also come in different densities so for hand shaping you want a low density. They are very very expensive because of the size sheets they are sold in. However if you have a local Pattern making company they will have off cuts. One company that I use for Aluminium casting machining cuts my board ( 70 cm by 100 cm and 50 mm thick) into various thickness sheets from 2 mm to 25 mm by 50 mm so that I can select a suitable thickness for the job in hand. I have my own band, Jig and circular saws and belt sanders to do all the smaller cutting operations. The Fox Moth fuselage in the above photo is in Prolab 65. It's easily worked with normal hand tools and it cuts with a model knife or hand fret saw and drills, sands and files beautifully and I finish with Halfords primers. It sticks with super glue or 5 min Araldite. Other carving woods are Yellow Pine, Piranha Pine, Jelutong, and Obeche besides my old favorite Lime. Lime wood can be found with suppliers specializing in carving craft tools. Get a small block balsa pack from a flying model shop and have a go at making a simple drop tank shape for a starter but from a plan so you can check your accuracy. Make paper or card patterns. I print mine of the drawing in my computer onto A 4 (or A 5) peel back self adhesive labels for the component side and top views. and a soft pencil or fine Sharpy (permanent ink). John
  3. John Aero

    Percival Gull Six

    This is a Proctor in Turquoise Blue I took at Cranfield or Sywell years ago. The colour of the print tho faded is how I remember it. John
  4. John Aero

    Percival Gull Six

    Hi Roger, Turquoise is one of those colours which can move towards the Green or the Blue. The Sylvester book is decidedly on the Green side. John
  5. John Aero

    Percival Gull Six

    Yes, Sorry but my reference to Percival Blue was assuming that folk would know the standard Percival House colour was Turquoise Blue fuselage with Silver flying surfaces. The fuselage letters were Silver. I've just found some more pictures of Jean Batten's Gull VI in pre-war colours with a solid dark coloured registration which isn't dark enough for Black. John
  6. John Aero

    Fairey IIIF Floatplane colour schemes

    Unfortunately all the published drawings are inaccurate and to make matters worse the published dimensions are often mixed up. The wing tips are not the totally rounded shape shown in many of the drawings and the fuselage overall length differs as to which Napier Lion is fitted. The early ones (Lion VA) had the forwards carburetors and the later type (Lion XI/XIA) had the engine moved forwards to accommodate the rear mounted carburetors. A quick visual check to which is which, is that if a circular hole is visible low down on the cowl side, near the firewall, then this is the intake tube for the Lion XI variants. The Lion VA engines triple carburetors drew their air from under the nose just behind the spinner. RAF variants used a Scarff ring and the Naval ones used a Fairey gun mount. John
  7. John Aero

    Percival Gull Six

    Both these aircraft are listed in David Gearings book. G-ADEP has a photo and I would hazard that it was overall Percival Blue with Silver letters. It ended up in Spain until 1948. G-ADMI Also went to Spain via France as F-APEI (not L). It too survived until after WW.2 No Illustration i'm afraid. G-ADPR was I believe always Silver overall with outline Black letters (presumably to save weight) apart from it's impressment days in camouflage as AX866. John
  8. The wing section was probably RAF 15 (BE. 2 /RE.8, or a close version. I'll have to look it up. John
  9. John Aero

    Revell 1/32 Mk 22/24 Spitfire

    The length of the 22/24 tailplanes when measured from the tip along the elevator line to the root (on one side) should be 6' 3". One foot longer than a standard Spitfire taiplane . The one foot length addition is coincident with a line drawn longitudinally through the widest part of the elevator on the standard tailplane which is one foot from the vertical centre line of the fuselage and rudder. the profile of the two elevators should match outboard of this line. John
  10. For a Lebanese, Syrian or Jordanian Proctors off the top of my head, as these were all post-war, I'm sure they were Mk. IVs. I'll check later. John
  11. X 1032. Formerly G-AEXU, used by No 1 General Reconnaissance Unit Ismailia, rebuilt after bombing damage but finally scrapped at Aboukir 1945. (Gearing Air Britain) The wings look camouflaged to me. John
  12. John Aero

    Airfix 1/48 Meteor F8 sink marks?

    The ribbing or indentations you refer too is the area above the wheel wells 'The do not walk area' but people obviously have and as this was done with a LIDAR scan on a Museum aircraft (I was there), the damage shows up. You would not be wrong to fill them flush (I wouldn't bother) as these should not be there on a in service aircraft (but possibly were). The gun panels display a similar denting but I would leave those as that's where the "Plumbers" would thump and press the panels to get the Dzus fasteners to bite. The long lateral marks are sinks due to the underlying tabs, (do fill these). John
  13. John Aero

    More Vampire Prototype questions

    It did not carry any under wing serials, Only small roundels placed well inboard from the tips. Under wing serials became mandatory at the wars end. John
  14. John Aero

    Tiger moth G-ACDC color

    G-ACDC I took this years ago with an ordinary fixed lens camera, and yes it was that close. I can't remember where but it was probably a PFA Rally. John https://flic.kr/p/21mmYVz
  15. Hello Hans You can build the Frog Proctor IV as it is not a bad model of that Mk. The Proctor IV was totally re-designed and was to have been called the Preceptor. The cabin was moved forwards and enlarged in height and width and the depth increased The top fuselage longeron angled up from the firewall and not behind the cabin as in the Mk.s 1-III. The rear fuselage was deepened and slightly rounded on the bottom. The rudder was bigger and the tailplane was raised higher. The rear windows were lengthened. the Overall length increased from 26' 2" to 28' 2". The wing span remained the same but the area was increased slightly and the wing was strengthened generally with new three position flaps fitted. The undercarriage was strengthened. The Mk.V was a Mk. IV built for the Civil market The Proctor VI was a one off floatplane variant of the IV. The RAF had around 250 Mk. IV so they were very common into the post-war years. I hope that this helps. John Above information from various sources.
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