tonyot Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 On 5/15/2020 at 10:26 AM, PhantomBigStu said: It’s uv light that does it @tonyota possible fix is to remove it and paint gloss varnish on it and if that fails sanding the outer surface with very fine sandpaper’s then micro mesh before glossing. I’ll ask on another forum Thanks Stu,..... I`ll give it a go,...... thought it was due to sunlight. Cheers Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhantomBigStu Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 3 minutes ago, tonyot said: Thanks Stu,..... I`ll give it a go,...... thought it was due to sunlight. Cheers Tony Yep, had my suggestions confirmed, that’s the best you can do other than replace the glazings 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adey m Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) On 15/05/2020 at 10:26, PhantomBigStu said: It’s uv light that does it @tonyota possible fix is to remove it and paint gloss varnish on it and if that fails sanding the outer surface with very fine sandpaper’s then micro mesh before glossing. I’ll ask on another forum I have had clear acetate glazing go yellow on me on various models. So from what has been said am I right to believe that the yellowing is only on the surface of the glazing and can be removed by sanding ? About twenty years ago I replaced this FROG Whitley's thick bomb aimer's glazing with a scratchbuilt one from thin clear acetate, but it eventually turned yellow as can be seen here, even though this model spends most of its time stored away in a box in the loft. So I had to replace the yellowed bomb aimer's glazing with a new scratchbuilt one, this time I made it from clear plastic polystyrene. regards, adey Edited May 18, 2020 by adey m 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Boak Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) It isn't light that does it, I've several yellowed canopies that are still within the kit box they came in when still clear, it is ageing, And although I've seen several claims that it can be sanded out or chemically treated, none of these have been proven correct. It may be that there are different materials with different reactions to light and time, but... maybe exposing them to 5G radiation will work? those of a Northern persuasion might try sucking an Uncle Joe's Mint Ball the breathing on it. US and Australian readers may find snake oil easier to get hold of. Edited May 18, 2020 by Graham Boak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 2 hours ago, adey m said: I have had clear acetate glazing go yellow on me on various models. So from what has been said am I right to believe that the yellowing is only on the surface of the glazing and can be removed by sanding ? About twenty years ago I replaced this FROG Whitley's thick bomb aimer's glazing with a scratchbuilt one from thin clear acetate, but it eventually turned yellow as can be seen here, even though this model spends most of its time stored away in a box in the loft. So I had to replace the yellowed bomb aimer's glazing with a new scratchbuilt one, this time I made it from clear plastic polystyrene. regards, adey Hiya Adey,..... I think yellowing is simply age,........ here are my most affected Corgi diecast`s,.... to show what I mean about white canopies,...... very much like some real restored aeroplanes in museums,..... but these were not in direct sunlight which is strange; Cheers, Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aces High Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Interesting approach, and the diorama looks great! Nice one! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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