AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Great progress Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Thanks Mish - slowed down again already as I had to figure out a solution for the missing details on the cabin. This is what I did so far: I hope it will look OK when painted but so far I am fine with it. Then I started to backdate the rotors by puting the tips in hot water and bend them with a flat plier (I used the Tamia etch bending tool for this): I am currently working on the tail boom but have only pictures of the mesh above the tail rotor driving shaft: The mesh should be diamond shaped but I had none in my stock so this must do. Some bits are scratched for under these mesh "windows". As said not much to show but at least some progress. Oh - and sorry for the bad pics. Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Looking excellent! Dont know if youve noticed but G-LYNX in that fit had the IGB intake faired; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Thank you Tony - actually I might have missed this! In fact I already cleaned IGB intake up already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Lookinfg good Rene, some nice detail you have added, especially in the exhausts. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thanks guys! Good and bad news... The bad news: My car broke down this morning just in front of my house and it had to be transported to the Garage. The good news: I had 2 hours of undisturbed modelling time while waiting for the breakdown truck :-) Just some written update (pictures will follow). I closed the tailboom up and prepared the resin parts which are attached to the tail boom but havent fixed everything yet as I still need to sand some seams and some added Milliput details. Then I masked the canopy and attached my vacuformed left upper window with super glue. I did not choose white glue as super glue will bond the vacuformed part better and any fogging can be removed easily. Tonight I will tint the upper windows blue. And do some more work on the tail boom. Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 As promissed some pictures. Sorry - no pic of the interior bits as these turned out completely blurred. As Tony pointed out the IGB intake is closed up with Milliput. The antenna at the bottom of the boom snipped off - I have no clue when and how this happened. I will rebuild it when I attache the resin parts to the boom. And a picture of the canopy so far: The left upper window is the vacuformed and as the framing isn't masked yet the clear Tamiya blue can be clearly seen. I build up the clear blue in about 8 coats, starting with a very light mist and ended with a wet coat - allow some drying time and the clear blue will be even (well "even" for me...) and without runners. Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Added some detail to the cabin sides (both sides the same, so only one shown here). I realized that some putty was needed on the port side resin part. I used Tamiya 2K putty here and though it is a large area the needed puty layer is very thin. Also below is a pic of the lower right window which was vacuformed ofer the puttied kit part. The fit was surprisingly good: Did further detailing on the rotor blades. A fine sanding and the blades are done. Next step on the blades will be to assemble the rotor and add the G-LYNX fairings with Milliput: I suppose this will be the last update for this week :-( Thanks for looking, Rene Edit: The added detail in white on the cabin sides and the blades is 0.2 mm plastic sheet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 I did some work on the Lynx but not much which would need pictures (rotor assembly and minor bits and things). Other than that I finished the tail assembly and did a thin primer coat (German equivalent to Halfords). The horizontal tail stabilizer was attached with 1 mm metal rod to the tail boom for best strength. The vertical stabilizers were attached with plastic rod, which could be cut off flush. A "reinforcement plate" as on the real thing was then added with small pieces cut from a playing card to cover up the hole and rod on the model: And after the primer: René Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Liking a lot Rene! Keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Hi Rene, it's comming together nicely. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Looking great Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Thanks! Yesterday I found out that I did not loose the antenna under the boom... It was still attached to the sprue Somehow I thought the antenna was directly attached to the boom parts and not a seperate piece, so I thought I broke it off but I did not. Yesterday I finished the tail rotor. The blades are resin pieces from the Belcher set which replace the kits blades. So the latter ones must be cut off from the one-piece kit tail rotor. The resin blades have a different shape and the G-LYNX tail rotor runs in the opposite direction from the kit supplied tail rotor. One resin blade had a casting flaw. I removed the defective area with a straight cut and replaced it with a piece cut from the kit blades. Some super glue and sanding blended it in. As ususual the resin blades and the kit part were drilled out with a 0.3mm drill and attached to each other with a 0.3 mm rod: The main rotor was also assembled yesterday. I did not reinfoce it with rods but attached the blades with thin super glue. As the area where the blades are attached will get wraped in Milliput to mimic the aerodynamic shroud of the real thing, I suppose the entire construction will be stiff enough then. For easy and simple alignment of the rotor I used my workshop floor tiles: So not much remaining before I can finally start painting. I need to apply the decals to the side doors and attach them and to do the inner framing of the front doors and the windsreen - and attach it as well. And of course the main rotor Milliput treatment. I had originally planned to finish the Lynx by 1st of Feb. to have a clean workbench for the Less than a tenner GB - but I think I can finish the Lynx in one or two weeks which is still OK for the LYNX GB - and me as well. Paint drying times will allow to start my Macci MC.72 during my Lynx pauses. Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx7 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Looking good so far. Just remember to change the side the pitch change flanges are on on the tail hub. Have a look on my thread for ref. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Looking good so far. Just remember to change the side the pitch change flanges are on on the tail hub. Have a look on my thread for ref. errr... doh! Well I have something to fix then :-D I had some pics printed out of the section but all taken from starboard side and somehow I overlooked this. Anyway - easy to address. Thanks for pointing out! Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 OK fixed the tail rotor yesterday and scratched the counterbalance weights with 0.24mm copper wire and white glue and changed the location of the pitch change rods according to Tonys input - but I am affraid I did so late in the evening and placed the weigths too far outside - where the latter versions have them fixed I think I will leave it this way: I did some work on the canopy but not much to show. I also started the aerodynamical fairings on the main rotor with Milliput but it turned out harder than I thought. I will have to rework the Miliput quite heavily so nothing to show here as well. I really hoped to get the main rotor finished by yesterday evening but such is life... The cabin sliding doors are now decaled on the inside and need just a flat clear cote before I can finally glue them in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 That's some fine work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 I wrote down the text below but found I cannot get into Photobucket - I will upload the pics later (Edit: Half a day later I made Photobucket work - still no idea what was wrong - so now with pics): OK two steps forward, one step back Part 1: I relocated the counterbalance weights as I could pull them out easily (pic will follow in a later post when the thing is painted - not much to be seen now anyway). The clear parts are all masked from the outside now with Tamiya masking tape (clearly the best masking tape I have found so far and not expensive when you look a bit around). I used a stretched sprue with the pointed end sanded a bit round to get the masking tape into the corners and then cut there with a new scalpel. As long as the frameing is so prominent as on the Lynx this is a quick, clean and easy way to mask. I finished the internal framing of the canopy and cockpit doors with black decal film (of a very persistent kind - grrrr....) for all straight frames (see above) and simply tries flat clear for the curved frames (see below picture). My idea about the flat clear was first not to fuss with the stiff decal film and second to avoid masking the inside which will be tricky and probably lead to no satisfying result (as my experience showed me). As I want to leave the cockpit doors open I want the internal frames to look painted so after masking the canopy I gave it a coat of black (from the outside), which will be visible from the inside but due to the clear plastic will look highly glossy. Instead of using flat black on the inside and risking this will show somewhat irregular on the outside I choose flat clear: It makes the inside look flat black but will be less prominent from the outside if any flat clear will be out of place. At least this is what I hope - I have no prove for my theory yet. Two steps forward, one step back Part 2: According to Mike Belchers instruction for this conversion the green colour should be FS. 34098 and compared to pictures this looks OK as far as I can say. I picked an old Humbrol tin first which I thought is a rather close match and because I finally wanted to have some colour on my Lynx. I underlined the three mistakes I did... It took about ten minutes to stir up the paint with a motor tool and for some reason it was impossible to thin it to a consistency so it could be airbrushed. The paint flaked out for some reason and clogged the airbrush so after 20 minutes of swearing and a 1/3 covered Lynx I stopped and cleaned up the airbrush. Finally the dried up colour looked quite different from the tin lid (not the colour of the lid but of the spilled paint next to it) so I decided to mix my own FS. 34098 from US Interior green (much), black (about 1/5) and yellow (about 1/8 - hard to say as my mixing became more and more unbureaucratic). This colour then sprayed quite good and showed once more that it does not take longer to do things the right way. A lesson I will hopefully learn in the near future. Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Nice work Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks Mish. Found some details which needed to be addressed: 1. The ones I added to the fuselage sides behind the cabin doors were not correct and had to be reworked a little. 2. There are vents molded in the resin piece of the engine cover which are not present on G-LYNX so I removed them. 3. The additional vertical fins are slightly thicker at the base - from pictures it looks as if there is some protective material there. I try to simulate this by an additional coat of paint before the whole stabilizer is painted black. I touched up everything with a brush afterwards. The frameing of the cabin doors will remain green so before I mask these off I had to apply a gloss coat to these areas (not shown here). I marked the camouflage scheme with a brown watersouble crayon on the dull green paint coat and try to airbrush the black camouflage freehand along these lines. When the painting is finished I can wipe the crayon away with a damp cloth were it shows. Edit: "vent must be deleted" is highly misleading: The vents ARE already deleted in the pics above... Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Coming together nicely Rene. I must learn how to attach comments as you have done, it must save a lot of text and writing time. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks Colin. There are many ways (programs) to do such stuff. I work in CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator (depending on wether I work at the PC or Mac) but PhotoPaint or PhotoShop will also work. Some people do such things in Word, PowerPoint or even Excel, although I have no clue how. Maybe you should just check what programs you have available and play around with them. This is how I learned it :-) Rene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerbannog Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Still no black paint... I had to correct another mistake done by me: I had to remove the part which I already glued to the top and filled and sanded everything. Then I cut a simple master for the scoops and used left over clear plastic pieces to "vac" the scoops. Maybe I should also take to opportunity to scribe the missing panellines, but this will mean no black paint tonight as well. We will see... During the drying of the putty I started on my M.C.72 and S.6B at last. So from now on I will build the three of them - but priority will remain on the Lynx. Rene 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Thanks Colin. There are many ways (programs) to do such stuff. I work in CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator (depending on wether I work at the PC or Mac) but PhotoPaint or PhotoShop will also work. Some people do such things in Word, PowerPoint or even Excel, although I have no clue how. Maybe you should just check what programs you have available and play around with them. This is how I learned it :-) Rene Hi Rene. Many tahnks, I have Photshop, so I'll give it a try. Playing around with it is the only way I'll learn. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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