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Found 55 results

  1. We've been asked a few times now so we have released a small range of colours particular to the Royal New Zealand Air Force. Our RNZAF national listing also references British and American paints commonly used by the RNZAF during WW2. Here though we've presented only the main specials which differed from those which we already make. As can be seen, these are the BALM S13-934 Blue Sea Grey in both fresh and faded forms, along with BALM S13-907 Sky Grey and BALM S13-909 Duck Egg Blue. Thanks for looking in
  2. I've made a start on a new model which will be something I never really do - a diorama of sorts but really it's two model aircraft. I've had to depart from my preferred 1/48 scale for this for various reasons but let's simplify it down to kit availability. The ultimate aim is to try to recreate a scene like this: I expect the readership is well familiar with the USAF's Combat Search And Rescue (CSAR) efforts which really came to maturity during the Vietnam war. The Sikorsky S-61R model in USAF service as the CH-3 was modified with long range tanks, refuelling probe, pilots' seat arm, winch and some defensive guns and became the HH-3E, nicknamed the Jolly Green Giant. They didn't and couldn't work alone though. They were still relative sitting ducks to ground fire, expected to fly into a hover in an area where a fast jet had been shot down. They flew in pairs, a high ship providing cover and a low ship which went in to pick up the downed airman/airmen. They usually had an escort of around 4 Douglas Skyraiders which flew under the nickname of "Sandy" which would provide heavy suppressive fire support for the helicopters. The whole operation was initiated, supported and coordinated by the crew of the Combat King however - the HC-130P would patrol and listen on the US military's radio frequencies monitoring ongoing air operations. As soon as they heard communications that suggested a friendly aircraft was in trouble the CSAR machine was warmed up. The Combat King crew would direct the rescue aircraft to the scene but also provided refuelling services to the fairly short-ranged Jolly Green Giants. The models then - I'm using a Whirlybird kit of the HH-3E which is almost entirely resin with a fret of photoetched brass. Unlike their earlier S-61N conversion which used a Revell donor kit, the HH-3E is a complete kit. Good then. The HC-130P is going to be provided by Italeri, with HC-130P conversion parts from David J Parkins' Flightpath, with photo etched details (mainly to get the flaps which, as can be seen above, were normally extended to allow the big Herc to fly slow enough for the helicopter to keep pace and take on fuel) and the correct Alison T56-A-15 engine nacelles from same. I still need the air to air refuelling pods from Flightpath and they're not available right now but David, if you're reading, I'll be keeping an eye on your website for them coming back into stock. It'll be a while before they hold up proceedings though. Never one to be content however, I have decided to attempt to make this much more difficult. I've never been impressed by clear plastic discs with blurry blades and the like, so to try to get a good impression of movement, I've decided to electrify this little ensemble. That's going to be easier said than done... Apart from any thing else, when you've actually seen things like the helicopter (or at least are familiar with its family members) things like relative RPMs begin to matter, within fairly broad reason. When photographed, the relative blur achieved by an camera will be more telling than just looking and since most people will see this through the results of a camera, I wanted to make a reasonable effort during the parts procurement process to try to get it close-ish. I've known 3 Hercules pilots, and have no way of contacting any of them so I've had to guess at what is probably a sensible propeller RPM for a C-130 flying straight and level with flaps down - and my guess is that 1200 RPM isn't going to look out of place. I ordered 4 of these for the Herc: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC3V-1200RPM-Micro-Mini-6mm-Planetary-Gear-Reducer-Motor-Precision-DIY-Robot-car/254151008187?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 These are approximately 17mm long and 6mm in diameter. The solid resin engine nacelles are, I believe, a benefit here since I can drill the nacelles in my pillar drill and get all the motors and thus all 4 propellers on the same axis. It would look dreadful if they all had different up/down/side thrust. Everything needs to be straight and aligned properly. On to the helicopter for now though. I needed to measure up what I had to work with, and that meant cleaning up the fuselage halves: The fit is pretty good, but there is a mismatch on the top of the fuselage to deal with later - but it doesn't affect what I need to know now: I have a bit of space to work with for the main rotor, but still the smaller the better - I don't really want a huge silver monstrosity gleaming through the cabin windows: The tailrotor however is a real issue: I have better data here (I think) about what speeds I want, but in truth that probably makes me less satisfied with whatever I get in the end! I have my father available who was licensed on the Sikorsky S-61N and has all of his Sikorsky course notes. I'd love to show some of the amazing reference material inside, but Sikorsky never miss an opportunity to sue people and the course notes have prohibitions on unauthorised disclosure all over them, so you'll have to take my word for the rest. Not knowing any S-61R drivers, but believing the powertrain to be very similar to the S-61N, my dad's course notes state that 100% on the mainrotor is 203 RPM. The same drawing shows that the power take-off for the tail rotor runs at 3030 RPM at 100% and that the 45deg gearbox at the bottom of the pylon is a 1:1 gear ratio. The final drive gearbox to the tail rotor itself has a ratio of 2.4375:1, making the tailrotor run at 1243 RPM at 100%. The best I could find that would fit in the fuselage for the mainrotor was this 242 RPM geared motor, measuring 16.5mm long by 6mm diameter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253771137237 That's at 3v so I've also ordered some little potentiometers to, hopefully, tweak that down a touch. Compromise is the key here. I considered asking someone to design and 3D print me tiny bevel gears and sit a motor in the pylon coaxial with where the transmission shaft would be on the real thing, but then I found these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC3V-3-7V-4-2V-Ultra-mini-Coreless-Motor-3-2mm-12-2mm-Vibration-Vibrating-Motor/283101330780?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=583506556671&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 They are tiny little things 3.2mm x 12.2mm overall including the shaft which has a vibrating counterweight attached, so I've ordered 2 of them incase I ruin one. This should just fit in there. I expect it spins far too fast for what I want, but I will mock it up first with a potentiometer and see how low I can get it - but really I think I'll just need to take what I get as this really seems to be the absolute bottom end of what's readily available on the market just now. Since I had the stuff out, I made a move on the sponsons. Whirlybird provides sponsons with separate end plates; one with floats for the HH-3F "Pelican" used by the Coast Guard, one plain as used on some of the CH-3C utility versions and one with the pylon for extended range fuel tanks. The fit isn't great unfortunately. I spent a while trying to make sure the pylons were aligned and looked like they would be at the same angle of incidence as each other - I don't want one fairly long, spindly fuel tank pointing up and one down! I've had this stuff for a while but have never used it, so thought I'd give it a go It's like Milliput but seems a bit softer and easier to knead/mix than my packets of Milliput. That said, my Milliput has always been quite old whenever I've used it - mixing epoxy putties always seems a real faff so I'll use solvent types normally. For resin here though this is probably more suitable. Thanks for looking in. This won't be fast paced - and indeed I need to wait for motors to arrive, but I will work away at it along with my other projects. I'm not always in the mood for shaping / painting / photo etch / sanding / scribing so I like having different models at different stages of build and pick up whichever I'm in the mood for. I'm not a linear person.
  3. Our 2019 brochure update is available now: Free download here: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/colour-list
  4. Glued the hull and waterline together ready for priming while I’m staying in Hospital for PTSD in Sydney as we Zero Clinics in Darwin and also you would notice I have another L Class Destroyer in the background just to keep me busy. But wait I have a big surprise coming up on another ship build, but more on that later.
  5. We've been getting some useful feedback that whilst customers generally know what the schemes they're planning to use look like, the vast majority (the silent majority?) don't know what the correct terminology is and usually don't know the proper names of the paint colours used. As such, our written format names are missing the mark for most potential customers. As a result, we're investing some time (we have no budget to pay people to do this) drawing illustrations and designing more graphic labelling for our sets. Hopefully these are a little bit more visually appealing and crucially help customers both at model shows and online simply identify the scheme they want to model and have confidence they're getting the right colours to do it. It's when you start an exercise like this that you realise how many drawings are actually required! Gulp! We hope you like them
  6. Since I’m at the stage of my other two builds atm, where I’m now down at dirty end of small detail painting, assembling/ fitting and glueing PE and small parts such as guns, masts, small boats etc. I’ve started this wee build while I’m waiting for paint to set or glued parts to set etc. This build will be a slow one as main rate of effort will be on the J Class and HMS Ariadne, but it will also depends on the weather and I’m going fishing and hunting trip for most April. Today’s wee job of adding the black waterline and which will be followed by the rest of the hull.
  7. Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
  8. Well I’ve started another L Class Destroyer “HMS Lance” by Flyhawk while I’m in Hospital attending a PTSD clinic here in Sydney. The is glued together and awaiting to be primed.
  9. Hello all. Last Christmas my son gave me this kit as a very nice present, and, wonder of wonders, I actually finished it within the calendar year. I normally end up putting new kits into the stash only to be discovered years later! I wanted to do something different with this model. I could not afford the photo-etch set for this one this time, so I built it entirely OOB. I did take a bit of a liberty and painted it in the 1944 scheme illustrated on the side of the box, but I am fully aware that the configuration had changed between then and 1945 which was how the model was fitted out. It's my model and I built how I want to, built how I want to, you would do to if it happened to you! You could make a song out of that methinks... Anyway, I really wanted to give Colourcoats paint a really good tryout. I had built a Short Stirling and used their Dark Green and Night Black and got on well with them, so now it was the ideal canvas to try a disruptive pattern on this, largish model. I only brush-paint (unless I use white when I upgrade to a rattle can!). I promptly went to the Soveriegn Hobbies website and downloaded their colour notes for KGV, and decided to do the disruptive option despite the fit differences. I had already completed my set of Colourcoats RN paints (two days before @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies announced his new NARN series of updated RN Colours), so I knew I probably had the right ones. I tried to follow the guide on the box for colour demarcations, but used Jamie's notes for the actual colours. I thinned the paints with Colourcoats own thinners, and they worked a treat, but oddly I found that the lightest colours covered more completely than the darker ones! I strongly suspect that was me causing that, but after a couple of coats for the light gray and light blue, and three for the dark gray and dark blue, I was well and truly happy with the results from this brand of paint. Top marks Jamie! The kit itself was great, not much flash and quite nicely detailed for me, but I have to admit that in the end I wished I had been able to get the etch to raise the bar a bit. It looked 'wrong' without any railings, and as for the cranes, well... Anyway, here is what I ended up with, one quite colourful ship, and a large one to boot! I did have to take some (more) liberties with the camouflage scheme as I could not quite figure out how the colours wrapped around athwartships (if that means side-to-side) for the for and aft superstructure colours. These models were ones that my brother and I used to drool over when we were gazing through the catalogues back in the day, and I am very glad my son treated me to this one. Thanks for looking, Ray PS - Looking at these pictures, I have realised I still need to paint the anchor 'chains'! Doh!
  10. Hello Britmodellers! This is the first model I've stuck in RFI for a long time, and continues my on-and-off fascination with helicopters. I think they offer a challenging crossover between aircraft and vehicles to help a jaded modeller rediscover the old magic again. This one certainly did that! It's very cheap for what you get in the box and probably the best fitting 1/32 Revell kit I've made since the Hunter. It also has some of the best kit clear parts I've seen on any kit, so well done Revell! The decals were also very impressive, my only gripe being the colours seemed to fade out once applied so the effect of the black cat paintwork isn't as impressive as it looks in real life Built from the box except for the addition of the Eduard Zoom cockpit set and exterior details. I used Colourcoats enamel paint which is still the best model paint I've ever used. The pics are from IPMS Farnborough website, all credits and (c) to Andrew Prentis. Not sure about the loadout and other details but it's a hobby, after all! Cheers Alan
  11. The last week has seen my first use of Colourcoats enamels in anger. I liked the colours and was impressed by the thinness of the coat and the density of coverage, which reminded me of my Aeromaster acrylics of hallowed memory: I expected to need two coats but reckon I can get away with one. After a night's drying the main uppersurface colour is still slightly soft and has a slight sheen. My questions: 1. How long should I wait before brushpainting a second colour over last night's coat? (I had an earlier unhappy experience when, despite my waiting several days, a second coat of Sky began lifting the first.) 2. Are there (safe!) ways of accelerating the drying process? 3. The finish is very smooth with a slight sheen. Has anyone tried applying transfers direct to the painted surface (ie omitting a coat of gloss varnish) and, if so, with what results? Thanks in advance for your hints and advice.
  12. I keep seeing posts suggesting that people are reluctant to build resin kits and/or keep wishing for kits to be available that actually are available - only in resin. As with injection moulded plastic kits, not all manufacturers are equal. Some plastic kits are absolute gems whilst others are abominations that are not worth the time and consumables to build. Likewise, not all resin kits are equal. Some negative common perceptions of resin kits include the following: - They're really expensive. They are more expensive than a plastic kit, but resin makes it financially viable to even consider some subjects like an S class destroyer. Perhaps more importantly, look at the contents. A basic plastic destroyer in 1/350 might cost around £30 (typical UK prices for 1/350 Tamiya destroyers like Yukikaze and Kagero are nearer to £60). If happy with what's in the box, I'm delighted for you. A sizable number though will then spend the same again on detailing to replace unrepresentative clunky plastic. With a kit like that featured in this thread, it's all included in the box. You don't need anything else to make a very nice model. - But nothing fits, right? Wrong. Not much else to say on that. As with plastic kits it depends who made the tooling and the casting technique. This thread will not omit any flaws in the kit's parts fit. You can see for yourself how it compares to most plastic kits. - Resin parts all need to be sawn off casting blocks. It's tedious, messy and I can't cut straight and it'll be ruined. Not an issue here. There are very small bits to remove, but in discrete places and can be done with a scalpel or modelling chisel. Less work that cleaning sprue gates from injection moulded plastic. - The dust from sanding is harmful to breathe in. Who in their right mind doesn't sand wet anyway? Dry sanding just clogs your abrasives regardless what you're working with and keeps all dust out of the air. It's just the correct way to sand. According to the time stamp on the photo, everything was as-new in its box at 18:18 this evening here's what's inside That's a set of instructions identifying and providing the correct name for all parts, diagramatic assembly instructions with notes, a full colour painting guide, pressure cast resin hull split at the waterline, bagged resin smaller parts and cast white metal small fittings. Here is the preparation needed to join the hull. There are some very small protrusions to clean off with a blade. The bigger one is a locating pin. That was 18:23. I hadn't done anything to change the condition of the kit contents from as-new yet. So, I trimmed those off and glued the hull together with medium CA. The fit is better than many injection moulded plastic hulls I've joined but not perfect. I will now point out the flaws and how much of a non-event it is to fix them. I wouldn't normally bother but to help the flaws and sanding stand out in photos for this thread, I gave it a quick blast with Halfords primer then had some food while it dried Off to the kitchen sink with an Infini Model sanding sponge I smoothed down the hull join. With a good abrasive like the Infini sponge and water, the whole lot took around 10 to 15 minutes. I got a bit careless and took some material off one of the strakes. Before remembering I was going to set this in water like Imperial, I fixed it with plasticard I then filled the waterline seam with putty. I keep getting educated by people who know better that I can't use normal modelling putties on resin because it doesn't stick, but none of the resin things I've ever worked with got that memo. The time stamp on that photo was 19:24 tonight. One hour and one minute including a dinner break to get to a joined, filled hull. And that's with me repairing self-inflicted damage (that will be hidden underwater anyway).
  13. Hi chaps, just something to distract me quickly from all the other stuff I need to be getting on with. This will be pretty much OOB, apart from the canopy masks and maybe some brassin wheels, not sure yet. I will put some sort of seatbelts in too, nothing over the top cause the canopy will be shut. I am doing the kits second decal option, 81/82 over 76. Paints are colourcoats from @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies , bought last week along with some USN greys for my other projects. I will continue the enamel theme with ak xtreme for the metals. Obilgatory contents shot. After a few hours clean up on sunday night and the completion of some sub assemblies, the parts had some paint thrown at them tonight - 02 for u/c legs. 66 in pit. Aluminium in all bays and inside of doors. Titanium on intakes. Jet exhaust on acorn outlet things. A few observations - Generally the plastic is easy to work with as quite soft and sands nicely. Also doesn't 'tear' when trimming stubs away with a knife which is good. Couple of raised pin marks to remove on underside of upper wing, one in the bay for aesthetics and the rest for a snug fit. I like the way the wing halves are split on a panel line so no leading edge seam. Intakes have a moulding ridge around the inside of them, 5 mins with some sandpaper around a file handle does the trick. The closed one piece u/c bay doors for the wheels up option fit quite snug once sanded around the egdes a touch and will be used as masks for prepainted bays. Main U/C legs and struts have some prominent lines that need scraping off and some parts slightly out of alignment? Hole needed enlarging in legs for the strut pin. Thats all I can remember at the minute. Cheers, Tony
  14. As you maybe aware that I’m currently building a J Destroyer atm. I was rechecking to make sure I had all the right paints to start painting sometime this week when the Monsoon finally arrives and I have a couple of questions. 1. Medium Dark Grey is listed as “Colourcoats M16” I can’t find in reference for it as Sovereign Colourcoats Website is down atm. Are they meaning Colourcoats RN02- 507B Medium Grey? 2. G45 “Colourcoats RN14” is that referring to G45 Warm Grey or G45 Light Grey/ 507C? 3. Would Humbrol 153 Matt Red, be a good substitute for Colourcoats Red? 4. Would Humbrol 33 Matt Black, be good substitute for Colourcoats Black? Cheers, EXF
  15. I'm in an experimentation / development sort of mood at the moment rather than an "out-perform-myself" sort of mood. So, following on from my recent F-86D Sabre Dog completion which was to try to figure out a way to get a natural metal finish I liked (I'm not done with that yet, btw) I thought I would try something that relates directly to our own paint and what can be done with it (and what cannot). I have read about "hairspray chipping" numerous times but had never tried it nor understood how to do it. A casual attempt without knowing anything else was a total failure. I kept reading that it could only be done with acrylic paints but this included everything from water based vinyl types to acrylic lacquers, so I knew that this apparent requirement had to be based on nothing more than the popular position of acrylic=good, enamel=bad despite acrylic meaning anything under the sun really. Thus, I decided that this old piece of Corsair which featured on the F-86D thread could lend its services again: You find with stuff like hairspray chipping that "everyone" just knows how to do it, but nobody has written down how to do it. Eventually I learned that what is required is water for the scratching-off phase at the end. Armed with this little nugget, I sprayed some hairspray straight from the aerosol can (that part is to be refined in the forthcoming) onto the piece shown above - 4 coats, actually, and whilst that dried I thinned down some Colourcoats enamel - which happened to be a matt dark olive shade I had on the bench next to the airbrush - but it could have been hot pink for all I cared here. Anyway, it works. Hairspray chipping works with a Colourcoats topcoat (the chipping coat) at least over an Alclad base. In the forthcoming I shall establish how (not if) to chip between layers of enamel. Also, there's the more subtle task of actually getting good at it! The test there is, admittedly, a mess, however it served a valuable purpose. Under water, I was able to remove Colourcoats enamel with a cut-down paint brush (but it had some paint dried in it - that's where the scratches came from), and I also tried a kitchen scouring pad which was responsible for most of the exposed silver there. Using a kit from the stash that doesn't need much effort, is quite cheap and as common as dirt (so I don't care if I mess this up), I now aim to incorporate this into a model and, specifically, use the hairspray chipping method exposing bare metal and yellow zinc chromate primer in different areas. If anyone wishes to follow, comment, criticise, suggest better ways, educate, point, laugh, whatever, please join in The victim - a nice enough kit. I have always struggled to get the wing join such that I'm happy with it but overall if it goes well I will enjoy having it and if it's a disaster then no real harm done! I'm not investing much in this, but probably will stretch to seatbelts just incase it ends up looking ok in the end. I'm not spending money on them though - instead I'll use these ones from an Eduard SBD Dauntless fret. I don't like the pre-painted ones Eduard make now - the paint self-strips when the belts are bent to suit, and I don't like the superfabric ones either. I need to find a new source of belts or at least belt buckles - but that's another matter I started by spraying most of the parts with Alclad Duralumin whilst still on the runners. After assembly the wing leading edges etc will probably need another blow over
  16. This started off as a hairspray chipping experiment, but I decided to push on and finish the model before the end of the year. I don't "do" New Year so have used the time today finishing this off. There's a replacement bomb on the way for it and I will improve the bomb cradle and add them both later - but this is it for now. I hope you like it. I gathered a lot of photos of beaten up USMC operated F4U-1s and 1As in the Pacific and have tried to take inspiration from a number of them. The 100 mission markings on the particular aircraft here indicates that it was quite a well-used machine and indeed the photo I found of it online indicates likewise. I've been asked via a social media page post already what I used for this colour-wise so here are the main ones shown. The dark blue wasn't used as-is but instead was blended with ACUS08 - ANA608 Intermediate Blue to fade it towards a blue-grey.
  17. Due to a family connection... I wished to build the I-class destroyer HMS Imperial, pennant number D09, which was built by Hawthorn Leslies in Tyneside in 1936. The I class was a continuation of the Brazilian H making Peter's kit a very good starting point, however there are some differences to be addressed. The easiest problem is that the I-class had 4 of the 4.7in QF Mk.IX single mounts. The Hesperus kit provides 3, lacking Y-turret. Peter kindly supplied my kit with a fourth mount knowing my plans for this kit. Next up, the H-class funnels were unequal height but both had oval cross sections. On the I-class, the aft funnel was taller, approximately equal in height to the forward funnel. The forward funnel was circular in cross section. Armed with a set of plans (again, thank you Peter!) I set about extending the aft funnel and replacing the forward funnel. New 3D printed 4.7in Mk.IX QF guns were sourced from Shapeways but the barrels were as poor as the breach end was brilliant The barrels were thus sawn off and replaced with brass The torpedo mounts were likewise replaced by Shapeways items. They were extremely expensive for what they are, but they look nice The pair of Vickers 0.5in quad machine gun mounts were replaced with Tetra Modelworks items which I had used before on a HMS Hood build as was very happy with them I did as best I could in interpreting the scheme from the single wartime photograph I have ever seen. I had to pay around £20 for this from the Australian War Memorial to get a high resolution version to even find out if the photograph showed anything - the low-resolution version online just showed a smudge where the ship claimed to be So, after a few months' work, here it is. I never really finish model ships - I just stop. I plan to get some better paravanes and fit them to the deck at the stern, and I will definitely get some crew members to stand on watch when they become available from Northstar. For now though, it's safely in my display cabinet
  18. I am really hoping for a quick result this time, because this has to be finished by Thursday night. I've taken it so far, and now it requires Stew's non-judgemental judgement. This is about not giving Stew the satisfaction of not mentioning the fact that he was right and I haven't finished yet another thing! So, Tamiya Mossie with resin bits. The purpose is to bring to the Scottish National Scale Model Show a model built using the Pangolin two-stage engines, plus some Ultracast bits because they make things better than not having them. Obviously all paints are Colourcoats with ACRN07 Ocean Grey, ACRN09 Dark Green, ACRN17 Night and ACRN28 Interior Grey Green featuring most predominantly. Fearing running out of time, I didn't use the control surfaces in the end, and on closer inspection the canopy masks from the drawer were for the Revell one I have in the stash so I ended up doing it by hand which angered me because I hate masking. So first of all it needs propeller bosses. These aren't on the engine castings as they'd be too weak. Normally I'd try to use brass for this sort of thing but didn't have any the right diameter and definitely didn't have time to faff about waiting on mail order so I cut out the kit ones and superglued them in. Next the engines need cut from the Tamiya kit. It's pretty easy - straight cuts along kit panel lines are all that is required: The fit is much better than when I tried this using Paragon castings (not because there's anything wrong with Paragon castings, only that they were explicitly designed for the Airfix kit and hence don't fit the Tamiya kit very well!) The cockpit was roughly painted - no fancy work here - and everything is OOB save for the Ultracast seats which are better and have seatbelts which are visible through Tamiya glazings. The Tamiya decal seatbelts don't cut the mustard: That done, it was closed up, given what little seam work Tamiya kits usually need (which did include a thin scraping to blend in the nacelles to my liking, but nothing major). It was then airbrushed straight onto bare plastic/resin/filler without priming, black basing, preshading or any of that caper: The grey and green were airbrushed freehand. Not my best work, but still learning the new airbrush. It'll be ok though. These colours were minimally masked in strategic places (fuselage demarcation, wing roots, tailplane roots, cowling demarcations) and the rest was sprayed Night. It currently has a gloss enamel clearcoat curing and I hope to get the decals on tonight: Two or three weekends ago, when Stew was last here helping with paint tinning, I came downstairs and confessed that I had cut the single piece bomb door moulding in half to show them open. Stew looked as alarmed as he did disgusted with my stupidity - because now I had given myself a Bombay interior to paint as well! The propeller tips were painted yellow last night, and will get the rest painted black tonight. Unlike my usual habits, the undercarriage is completely painted and assembled already so can get plugged right in once the decals are on. I haven't painted the 6-stack exhausts yet but should hopefully be able to fit that in before Thursday night!
  19. We are pleased to announce two new colours in our range. These colours are seldom required for very large areas on models but nevertheless they are so distinct that when required they are difficult to substitute. ACUS46 is FS 12197 International Orange, which was sometimes referred to as day-glo and which was regularly seen dotted around USAF aircraft during the cold war, indeed some aircraft had the entire rear fuselage and tails painted in it! The colour would fade somewhat in service, but the fresh appearance is very distinct. ACLW30 is RAL 2005 and officially called Luminous Orange, but is day glow orange used on Luftwaffe aircraft through the cold war including F-104G tip tanks and covering varying sized areas of all sorts of German aircraft from Rockwell Broncos to Seakings. Again, this colour would fade to orangey-yellow over time, but the fresh appearance is unique and unobtainable by mixing any combinations of other more sober coloured paints. It requires the specific pigment used in our new product. Please note that ACLW30 in particular must only be thinned with refined mineral spirit thinner such as Colourcoats Thinner. Using cellulose/lacquer thinner with this product will not work. This is due to the specific pigments used. Both ACUS46 and ACLW30 are so bright that we recommend a solid white base coat before use. The staining power of the required pigments is inherently rather weak so Colourcoats' normal excellent colour density cannot be achieved whilst maintaining the colour saturation necessary. Upon a white base though, both cover well and airbrush users in particular will be able to achieve the completed coverage in a single sitting if using our C03 Matt White product thinned with Colourcoats Thinners which will be sufficiently dried by the time the airbrush is cleaned out to move straight on to the orange.
  20. This is one I should have photographed from the beginning but somehow just built instead. On the 12th of July 1940, this Arado built He111H-3 of III Gruppe / Kampfgeschwader 26 departed Stavanger Sola and headed south west to bomb targets in the Firth of Forth area (that's the big river estuary near Edinburgh for non-British). Making landfall at Leuchars (which was possibly the actual intended target?) in Fife, it was intercepted by Spitfires from 603Sqn at 12:55hrs at 10,000ft and driven north. The Heinkel reached Aberdeen at jettisoned its bomb load over the harbour area. These mostly landed on Hall Russell's ship yard and around the Footdee part of the city, killing several dozen civilians. The Neptune Bar (a grotty hole of a place, truth be told) was also hit! Pursued still by the Spitfires and probably surprised by a barrage of anti-aircraft fire from trawlers in the harbour and, I believe, guns at the Torry Battery site? Either way the aircraft was shot down in flames (there were many eye witnesses) and crashed into the newly completed ice rink building in the Garthdee area of the city - right beside what is now "Anderson Drive". One of the crew had evidently tried to bail out but his body was still half in the aircraft. Several crew members died, and were buried with military honours at the old Kirk cemetery which is about a mile north of Aberdeen's Dyce airport runway. In the Luftwaffe Crash Archive book Volume 1 by Nigel Parker, there are several more photographs included. The aircraft is wrecked, but there is just enough to confirm what seems to be a typical RLM70/71 over 65 scheme, with the fuselage demarkation in the higher position seen on reference photos (i.e. from leading edge of tailplane straight to trailing edge of wing). A photo of the underside of one of the wings loaded on to a wagon to remove from the crash site shows the letter "T" in black beside the cross, thus informing that this particular aircraft had the full 1H FT under the wings, not just a large "F" under each wing as is often seen. Knowing that, and that it was from III Gruppe, I knew it was very likely 70/71 over 65, with full lettering underneath, that the KG.26 emblem would be a black lion on a yellow field and that the propeller spinners and letter "F" on the fuselage sides were RLM04. I did look for a while but never did find a photograph of the whole aircraft intact. Be that as it may, I have gone with what I do know to be true on 12th July 1940. If someone does produce a picture that proves me wrong, I can build it again maybe The model itself is the old Revell 1/48 Heinkel He111H-6 kit which lived in my stash for many years. I understand this was one of the last toolings Monogram made and it has nice detail and nicely recessed panel lines. There were some moulding defects on the wing surfaces which needed some levelling, plus the usual sink marks in places and the fuselage was warped. This kit has a reputation for being a dog to build. Expectations suitably low, I found it better than I had prepared myself for it to be! It has an Eduard PE set inside it dressing up the cockpit a bit. With so much glazing the cockpit on this does matter so I felt it was worth putting in a little bit of effort there. The rest is just OOB though. It's quite well known that the Revell H-6 isn't actually a H-6. I don't pretend to be very interested in German stuff generally but I believe the H-6 should have had broader chord propellers etc. Hence, what's in the box is really a H-4. Having little inclination to go OTT on research which invariably leads to wholesale disappointment with kits like this, I did try to find out what the differences were between a H-3 and a H-4. I can't tell the difference. I have seen photographs captioned as H-3s with and without the foward cabin windows glazed, and with and without the front of the gondola thing glazed. As I've no photographs of the specific subject aircraft intact, I decided I was bored with abortive searches and decided to build a model I forgot to take any photographs along the way which is a pity. The cockpit is painted RLM66, and everything else inside is RLM02. The engine nacelles were a bit of a pain but a combination of trimming the wing fairings on the nacelles, and ramming some packing in between the top of the wheel wells and the bottom of the upper wing skin to spread them apart almost 1mm improved the fit hugely. They still needed a fair bit of time with filler and sanding sticks. Actually, most of the major joins needed filler, sanding and Olfa cutter remedial work! To make things easier, I also bought an Eduard canopy mask set. It must have been a Friday afternoon job there though as a significant percentage of the individual masks were not for this kit and ended up being Tamiya tape cut with a scalpel - exactly what I hoped to avoid (because I hate masking glazings). I enjoy playing with different toning effects. I know there are some I simply do not like, but I am always happy to try different things to see if I like each model better than the last. Sometimes it pays off, sometimes it doesn't. This one went ok I think? Now, here's where it becomes embarrassing. I *thought* I had this memorised and plowed on with decals and even posted this damned photo online, only for my buddy Stew to contact me quietly and very diplomatically point out that I was an absolute idiot for not having Luftwaffe Crash Archive Volume 1 open when I painted and applied the decals. Remember that demarkation line above and the 1H FT under the wings? Yep, got the BOTH wrong! Argh! I could have left it at that point, but I'm me and frankly I'd sooner jump up and down on it that finish it with such a stupid mistake, let alone two such stupid mistakes! That then escalated a bit. Moving the demarkation upwards with carefully de-tacked Tamiya tape still pulled off all the lettering. The big "F" letters under the wings from the same decal sheet however were ab-so-flippin-lutely welded on. Typical! Still, it's all done now though and I'm down to daft fiddly bits and some weathering to finish. The KG.26 emblems are on their way from a major US retailer. Occassionally we feel guilty taking a Friday off order processing. It took this outfit (which shall remain nameless - so don't ask) almost two weeks to get round to lifting the decal sheet off the shelf to post it.
  21. In the mid 1990s, Colourcoats was established as the first model paint brand offering shades specifically for modellers of Royal Navy subjects, based upon the most comprehensive information available at the time. In recent years, the delving of some individual enthusiasts into primary source documents in various National Archives made it clear that there were conflicts, anomalies and some straight contradictions between the widely held wisdom on the matter and what was actually written down in black and white and communicated to the fleet through the official channels at the time. For the past two years we have been working with these individuals by bringing us all together to pool our resources; each having discovered separate, isolated pieces of the larger jigsaw puzzle. Combining this with industry expertise sought and willingly given by several recognised experts on paint chemistry, we have been able to determine which anomalies are the result of incorrect assumptions and which were in fact correct identification of the correct paint, but that the old oil paint samples have significantly colour-shifted in the many decades since they were first made. Regular customers of Colourcoats' Royal Navy products may have already noted the migration in our webstore now started. The entire RNxx range is now discontinued and will not be remanufactured, however they will remain available until existing inventories are depleted. An entirely new range coded NARNxx is to replace our Royal Navy offering. Initially this will accommodate the 1936-1950ish era, but spacing has been left in the numbering to migrate the earlier shades in due course. Colours which are simply being renumbered without a shade change are: RN28 becomes NARN20 RN01 becomes NARN23 RN02 becomes NARN24 RN18 becomes NARN25 RN04 becomes NARN28 RN07 becomes NARN33 RN09 becomes NARN39 RN19 becomes NARN42 RN24 becomes NARN44 RN27 becomes NARN45 RN26 becomes NARN46 All other NARNxx colours are new products, whether altered slightly or significantly from the similarly labelled product from the out-going RNxx range. Our new range is as follows, organised vertically by appropriate time period and horizontally by camouflage tone. This organisation should assist the consumer (along with our research papers) to quickly spot and exercise caution over colour scheme references which demonstrate a fundamental lack of understanding by "cross breeding" paint ranges. Products NARN20 and NARN21 are offered in parallel as alternatives to each other, NARN20 being a 13%RF version of Home Fleet Grey with NARN21 offering a 10%RF version. Similarly, as the greens used in the 1943 "B" series were specified in quantity but not in type, we offer NARN33 as B.5 or B15, and an alternative NARN35 as B15 with a greener caste. It can be seen from the above that G10 replaced bother M.S.2 and 507A, whilst B30 replaced both M.S.4 and B.6 and B55 replaced both Western Approaches Blue and Western Approaches Green. Lastly, B20 replaced G20 from mid 1944 (with a brief overlap). These are in manufacture at time of writing, and will be on sale within 4 to 6 weeks. The Flotta Green and Brown will be a little later, but not too much, and we may add PB.10 also now that more kits of Royal Navy submarines are beginning to appear on the market.
  22. Our latest work is available to download now: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/royal-navy-colours-of-world-war-two-pattern-507s-g10-and-g45 The revised Colourcoats are not available to purchase just yet. We have decided on a "hard reset" due to the number of changes ongoing with respect to Royal Navy WW2 colours, and we will be rolling out a new coding/numbering system. This way, customers will know for sure whether they're getting new-research colours or not.
  23. Our brand new 1936-1943 Home Fleet Grey 13% RF (aka Admiralty Pattern 507A and 507B) is now available. I believe this is THE best model paint on the market bar none for Home Fleet Grey. This is the first in our renumbering to distinguish our suite of new-research based Royal Navy paints from previous work. All new Royal Navy paints will be prefixed with a NARN product code. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/royal-navy/products/colourcoats-narn20-1936-1939-home-fleet-grey-507b
  24. Hello everyone! This really not a true work in process, because it's already completed! But as it was primarily used by me to try out Colourcoats paints from Sovereign Hobbies, as well as other experimentation, I felt that this was the correct forum, vs. the RFI forum, to discuss the paint and other items. To begin, the kit is the Academy 1/72 A-37B, a small little jewel of a kit -- WITH A LOT OF TINY, FIDDLY BITS! It,s appearance seems quite accurate, save only that the kit seems to be missing what I would call the rear tailpipe pieces. That is, the wing just ends, whereas on the real aircraft there is a fairing, looking somewhat like a brass ferrule is shaped, and it is not there. Other than that, no real problems. I didn't spot this until way late in the game, so I didn't fix it either: Next, I used the appropriate Pavla cockpit set for this model, mainly to get the retractable screen guards for the intakes. They also feature a nifty "sandwich" style of I.P. construction -- and MORE fiddly parts: I used the Mk 82 bombs with fuse extensions from the Hasegawa Weapons set #1, and I got a set of M260 Hydra rocket from CMK, (I think) with six of the little seven rocket type pods frequently used on these aircraft (and OV-10A's). Lastly, I used the drop tanks from the Hasegawa A-37A kit, as they were fatter, and looked more realistic. I just had to add the welding beads or flanges with fine plastic strip and liquid cement. Weapon load: Other than that, I just articulated the elevators, and drilled out some ports and the gun tube. I added the clear lenses to the front of the nose, but you can barely see them. Also added the .005 wire whip antennas shown. I also used a new (for me) masking procedure, advocated by Metodi Metodiev over on ARC: LINK This was a rear trial, as this tiny plane has a camo pattern with small over-spray, and a lot of colors in close spaces. The pics will show how well it worked. And as I said earlier, I wanted to try out the Colourcoat paints, mostly to see how they compared to the Humbrol of old. I must say, I was very pleasantly surprised! The Vietnam era camo colors I tried were outstanding. First, they cover very well, in a thin coat. Some touch-up was needed after the masking (my fault, not M.M.'s system!). I needed to thin the paint down to an ink, and airbrush at around 5-10 p.s.i.. They thinned down to almost water, and the pigments stayed together in the fluid medium, whereas when I tried this with my Model Master paints, I ended up with "sand and water", as the paint pigments fell out of suspension. Later, after gluing some pieces on, a little brush touch-up was in order and the Colourcoats covered with no discernible brush marks. GREAT STUFF! Needless to say, these will become my go to paints for the Viet Camo jobs in future. Alas, the price in the U.S. of $5.55 per tinlet precludes my use of them for everything else. Without further ado, here are a few pics of the model. There won't be a posting in RFI for this one. That's all folks, 'til next time... Ed
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