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Raupenschlepper Ost RSO/01 Early Prod. (35478) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd During the first Autumn of operation Barbarossa during WWII, German forces struggled to a virtual standstill due to the muddy, then icy conditions that occurred on the rudimentary road systems they found in Russia, or the Eastern Front, as they called it. The Raupenschlepper Ost was the response by Steyr, or ‘Caterpillar Tractor East’ in English was available in two main variants – the cargo version and the self-propelled version with a PaK40 mounted onboard. Shortened to RSO, the initial /01 cargo variant had a pressed steel cab and a shallow-sided load area, plus a canvas tilt over the load-bed. This was simplified later to a straight-sided cab to streamline construction and in-the-field repair, retaining the main underpinnings, which consisted of a Steyr 3.5L petrol V8, followed by a substantially lower-powered Deutz diesel engine for those vehicles manufactured by Magirus, reducing fuel consumption and flammability, but increasing available torque that’s typical of diesel engines. The engine was mounted in the front of the vehicle beneath the crew cab for all variants, which must have been a boon during the cold winter months, powering the drive-sprockets initially with a differential similar to those used in wheeled vehicles, which was later replaced by a final-drive system more typical of an AFV. The driver effected steering via a pair of levers akin to those used in many AFVs of the era, with four gears plus reverse available for motion, and a standard single-plate clutch for power delivery. Suspension was simple elliptical leaf springs on two double-wheel bogeys per side, which took some of the lumps out of the terrible Russian roads, most of which were nothing more than packed dirt tracks in the summer, turning to muddy bogs in the period between summer and winter, at which point the ruts solidified, creating their own problems. The simple wheels and slack-track with no return-rollers gave the RSO enhanced capability during the change of seasons and during winter-time, with no complex interleaved wheels or ‘live’ tracks for mud to accumulate in and/or freeze. Its primary drawback was its relatively small load capacity, as it was based on a 1.5 ton truck, requiring multiple RSOs to replace their 3.5 ton wheeled equivalents once the weather deteriorated beyond the usefulness of wheels. The Kit This is a new tooling from MiniArt of this small bad-weather capable truck, and is already the first of three boxing, the third carrying a PaK40, as mentioned above. This first early variant arrives in a top-opening box with a painting of a camouflaged RSO on the front, and profiles of the four decal options on one side of the lid. Inside the box are sixteen sprues of grey styrene, one of clear parts, a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret, decal sheet, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on glossy white paper, with full profiles of the decal options on the front and rear covers. Detail is excellent, as we’ve come to expect from MiniArt, including a full chassis, engine, interior and load area with canvas tilt or bare framework in the back. Construction begins with the chassis, starting with the bottom plate and four cross-members, sliding two sections of the drive-shaft through holes in the centres, then adding the rails to the sides after removing several tabs from the upper edge, and adding triangular stubs that encroach into the centre. A platform with tubing is fitted to the front, adding actuator rods front and rear, plus a K-shaped rear bumper iron, and a pair of flag-like rods that appear to be scrapers that remove mud accumulations from the drive-sprockets. In the front of the soon-to-be engine compartment, a bench-like fixture is applied, adding a four-part blow-torch/engine pre-heater for the open bonnet option, with the front axle, bumper bar and a small box in a cut-out under the chassis, covering it with a panel that has an access hatch moulded-in. The rear axle with differential bulge is built from five parts, and is fixed to the flat rear of the chassis under the bumper, pushing up against the aft end of the drive-shaft, then mounting two brake-housings to the ends of the axle. The engine is a complex assembly, making the V8 block from six parts, and nestling the four-part transmission and sump in between the banks, adding exhaust manifolds, serpentine belt, plus a substantial pair of intake fans, dynamo, and other ancillaries, joining the two intakes via an air-box and filters, then installing the motor in the chassis, linking the radiator hoses, making a fuel tank with cut-out for the drive-shaft and feeder pipe that drops into the centre of the frame, and fitting a three-part exhaust with muffler under the rear of the chassis. Righting the chassis sees the installation of a choice of two towing hitches, one with a further sub-variant using different parts, slipping your chosen assembly into a hole in the rearmost cross-member. Although the suspension consists of a pair of two-wheel bogeys, the entire length of the tracks pivots around a centre axle that fits in a slot under the chassis, with a pair of leaf-springs at the ends of rails that have bearings for the bogeys, one fitted to each side of the vehicle, with a PE strip wrapped around the front axle that is linked to the assembly via piston that allows the system to stretch and rotate as the main suspension bar pivots. The idler and drive-sprockets look broadly similar, although they use different parts, fixing them carefully to the correct end. Four bogeys are made from tubes with a pivot strengthened by another layer, again, paying attention to where each one is fitted, then mounting the road wheels to each stub axle. The included tracks are link-and-length, achieving the look of individual links without the most of the tedium. The straight runs top and bottom are moulded as one part each, with short lengths on the diagonals, then six individual links around the highly curved ends, plus an extra link between the diagonals and the horizontal runs. The moulded links have several sensibly placed sprue gates per section, while the individual links have three each, while the designers have managed to avoid any ejector-pin marks on the links that is a blessing, especially if you plan to build your model clean. The cab is a small area, the floor built in halves from four parts each with a choice of two styles of footwell. A fuel filler is pushed through a hole in the side, adding a section of tread-plate at an angle on the opposite side, with a small bracket under the floor. The rear bulkhead has a shaped bar fitted to the bottom edge, a fire extinguisher, two canvas rolls and a bottle between the crew, and is set aside while the halves are joined and levers mounted in recesses, after which it is joined to the bulkhead, fixing a window in the central cut-out, and installing the crew controls, consisting of a set of foot pedals and two track control levers in a housing on the left side. An engine cover joins the two halves of the cab, followed by a pair of tubular framed canvas seats for the crew, with a choice of two styles. The cab front has a two-panel windscreen inserted, two wiper motor casings, and a choice of two dashboards under the screen, gluing the assembly to the front of the cab, spaced apart by the roof. The crew doors can be made with open or closed windows by using different clear parts, adding winder handles inside and a door handle to the outside, plus a PE hinge strap if you intend to pose the doors open. You also have a choice of a thickly louvred hood or one with a fine grille, both having a locking-handle on the lower frame, and an optional PE horse-shoe for luck on the grilled option, using a PE strut to hold it open if you intend to display the engine deep within. A choice of PE or styrene windscreen wiper blades, a two-part convoy light, and two reflectors/side lights are added to the front of the cab, mating it with the chassis, and adding a long wire from your own stock between the back of the cab and the chassis if you feel the urge. A set of pioneer tools are fixed to the rear bulkhead, with a choice of styrene tools with moulded-in brackets, or PE replacement clips after you have cut the chunky styrene brackets away from the two shovels and pick-axe. A couple of PE L-brackets are fixed to the rear of the cab roof to finish work on that aspect of the model. The load bed is constructed from a single planked floor that is supported by three cross-members and two ribs, with a choice of open or closed bed sides, which is achieved by using the same side parts but changing the location of the clasps that hold them in position at the corners, cutting a lug off for the closed option, or omitting the parts if you intend to use the canvas tilt that is included. The tail-gate has a rear light on a PE bracket that can be fixed open or closed, while the headboard is a single part that is glued on three pegs. To omit the tilt, four C-frames are installed along the sides of the bed, mounting it behind the cab on the chassis. The tilt is made from two sides, a solid front, a rear with entryway cut out, and the roof, all with creases and folds realistically depicted, plus a rolled-up and tied door panel that is glued to the top of the rear cut-out. Markings There are four decal options on the small sheet in a variety of schemes, two of which have additional camouflage overpainted in the field. From the box you can build one of the following: Unidentified Unit, Eastern Front, Autumn 1942 21. Luftwaffen-Felddivision, Eastern Front, Winter 1942/3 21. Luftwaffen-Felddivision, Eastern Front, Spring 1943 Unidentified Wehrmacht Tower Anti-Tank Gun Company, Eastern Front, Autumn 1943 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion The RSO is a diminutive vehicle with short wheelbase that gives it a hunched, almost comical appearance. Detail is excellent, and extends inside and out, using link-and-length tracks to simplify the process without losing detail. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

CASA C-212-300/400 (SH72489) Long-Nosed CASAs 1:72 Special Hobby The CASA C-212 Aviocar was developed in response to a need by the Spanish Air Force for a new cargo aircraft, putting its ageing fleet of Dakotas and Ju.52s out to pasture. It first flew in 1971, and its designers, CASA began receiving orders shortly thereafter. It started life as an eighteen seat un-pressurised transport that could carry out multiple roles for the military, but with a watchful eye on potential civilian customers too. The initial 100 series was used for transport, reconnaissance, VIP transport and civilian service, with some license built in Indonesia, who switched to the improved 200 Series as it was developed, with an extended fuselage and more powerful engines to improve its carrying capacity. In the late 80s the 300 Series was introduced with winglets to improve fuel efficiency and range, with new engines, although they output around the same power, but through a pair of four-bladed propellers. The 400 series came into service toward the end of the 90s, and improved further on the type’s load carrying capacity, with slightly more powerful engines, and new avionics that were moved into the nose from under the floor. During the noughties production was moved entirely to Indonesia, transporting the jigs and equipment there to continue production by Indonesian Aerospace, while the Spanish factories retooled for its replacement, the NC-212i that is powered by a pair of new turboprop engines with more power and revised four-bladed props. The Kit This is a new boxing of the kit we originally reviewed in 2018 on its initial release, with new parts added along the way, some of which appeared in an Azur Frrom boxing of the -300 a while back. This boxing gives the modeller the option of a -300 or -400 series, with lots of spare parts that will be left on the sprues after the build is complete. The kit arrives in a shallow top-opening box, and inside are five sprues of grey styrene, two small sprues of clear parts, a small base of 3D printed parts in a separate Ziploc bag, a decal sheet and the A5 instruction booklet printed in colour on satin paper, with profiles for the three decal options on the rear pages, accompanied by an advert for some of the aftermarket that Special Hobby produce for the C-212 under their CMK brand, and a few other kits from the Special Hobby stable. Detail is good, with crisp panel lines, sensible parts breakdown to assist with creation of the numerous variants that have been released. Construction begins with alteration of the fuselage, which must have the forward section removed by cutting, to be replaced by a new section that can be found on the same sprue, giving your CASA a longer nose. Both sides are cut and lengthened, adding a door insert on both sides forward of the wing, and a smaller door behind the main landing gear sponsons. The fuselages have either circular porthole-style windows inserted from within, or after cutting and sanding the thinned inners to a square with radiused corners, the corresponding alternative windows can be installed for one of the decal schemes. The paired cockpit side windows are also glued in from within at this stage, mounting the instrument panel and its three decals in the starboard side as you go, and inserting a couple of tail bumpers under the base of the sloped rear. The cockpit is built on a short floor section with the side and centre consoles moulded-in, adding two seats and control yokes, plus a rear bulkhead with quilted sound insulation and an access door behind the crew. This is trapped between the two fuselage halves during closure, along with the front windscreen panels that are moulded as one. Two aerials are cut from the top of the fuselage, while a few antennae and blisters are added underneath, fitting the nose-wheel on its two-part strut on an insert under the nose, with small lights on each side. The main gear sponsons are fixed to the portions that are moulded into the fuselage halves, including some of the internal structure, remembering to install the main gear struts with their moulded-in scissor-links as you do. The tail fin is moulded into the fuselage halves, and has a single-thickness rudder panel that is shortened before installation, plus the two elevators and their flying surfaces, the former from two halves each, the latter single thickness. More antennae of various styles are included depending on which decal option you have chosen, some of which must be shortened during fitting, others would benefit from holes being drilled out to mount them in. The main wheels are added to the struts, building them each from two halves. As this is a high-wing monoplane, it is the upper wing that is moulded full-span, gluing the lower halves to it, adding four triangular actuator fairings into slots in the underside, and removing the wingtip light blisters, drilling two holes further back in each tip to accept the new wingtip fins later. Two engine nacelles are made from identical pairs of parts, adding a cowling front to them along with the prop, which is moulded as one, and trapped between the back-plate and spinner. A styrene washer holds the axle in place before installing the front cowling if you wish to leave the props spinning, or you could leave it off and add the props later, making dealing with the delicate seams a little easier in the process. The two nacelles are added carefully to the underside of the wing, fitting the 3D printed exhaust guides for one of the schemes, and inserting the wingtips at each end. There are some alterations needed to make the flying surfaces more accurate, removing a protruding trim-tab and filling the remainder on one side, and filling the panel line underneath, plus removing the actuator strut at the inner edge. The completed wings are dropped over the fuselage, taking care to align them well, fixing two probes on the nose in front of the windscreen, plus a crew step under their hatch. Finally, a pair of rail-type antennae are fitted on the tail fin, one each side, locating on a pair of recesses near the top. Markings There are three decal options on the sheet, each with very different schemes and operators that should maximise their appeal. From the box you can build one of the following: CASA C-212-300M, 8021, No.44 Sqn., SAAF, Waterkloof, South Africa, 2008 CASA C-212-400, ARBV-0217, Escuadrón Aeronaval de Patrullaje Maritimo, Armada Bolivariana de Venezuela, 2008 CASA C-212-300, PA-61, Escuadrilla de Alas Fijas, Prefectura Naval Argentina, 1990s The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion The C-212 was in production for over 40 years, with almost 500 airframes built during that time, and many countries operating it in either civil or military guises. This kit gives the modeller a modern tooling of the type, plus some interesting decal options. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

G-518 US 1T Cargo Trailer ‘Ben Hur’ (35436) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd During WWII, the US used two small two-wheeled trailers for transporting additional equipment and other essential stores around the battlefield, towed by trucks and other vehicles that had at least a ¾ ton payload carried internally. There were two major variants, one for carrying many types of equipment and designated as G-518, the other a specialist water carrier that was given the catalogue designation G-527. The main contractor was Ben-Hur Manufacturing Co., which garnered it the nickname ‘Ben-Hur Trailer’, and its 1-ton load capacity in 3.2m3 volume meant that it saw a lot of action, mostly ignored by war historians and modellers alike, as it was a transport and not as interesting as the things that went bang. Nevertheless, there were over a quarter of a million built, and many of them spent their days dutifully following a Chevrolet truck around the roads and tracks of Europe and the Far East. The Kit This is a new tooling from MiniArt, launched just after the G-527 Water Buffalo we reviewed recently here, this kit is ripe for filling with useful gear that a squad may find helpful on the battlefield, or to make themselves comfortable before or after action. The kit arrives in a small top-opening box with a painting of the subject matter on the front by the prolific Volodymyr Booth, and inside are six sprues of grey styrene, a card envelope that contains a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret and a length of chain, adding a small sheet of decals and the glossy instruction booklet to complete the package, the latter having painting and decaling profiles on the rearmost pages. Detail is excellent as usual with MiniArt, including a full chassis, well-rendered chunky treaded tyres, and even a set of slat extensions to the sides of the structure with moulded-in wooden texture. Construction begins with the bodywork, starting with the two sides that have leaf springs moulded-in, which have the axle retention bolts added to both sides, PE tie-down loops down the sides, and the light cluster that is fitted on a PE bracket next to the rear suspension mount. A choice of external framework to the sides with or without the extension slats is glued to the sides, including small PE brackets at both ends of the slatted sections. The wheels are built from two parts, the larger having the outer hub, tyre carcass and the tread moulded as one, the smaller having the opposite sidewall details moulded-in. They are then put to one side while you build up the rest of the load area. The two sides are mated with the floor part, adding brake actuators underneath and on the side, and bringing in the ends to create the load box, with more PE brackets and foot stirrups to aid entry. While the chassis is upside down, the two-part inner hubs are fitted to the ends of the axles, adding a short length of 0.5mm wire to each one, and another length to a bracket under the floor. The towing frame is made from two converging lengths, which are fixed under the front of the floor on a pair of U-bolts, while a pair of mudguards are mounted on the chassis sides on pegs, inserting the wheels into their wells. The front and rear slat sections are glued to brackets on the sides, then four curved roof supports are fixed to the sides that are used when a tilt is fitted during poor weather. The tailgate is completed by adding the PE retaining pins on chains at floor level, then the two-part towing eye is mounted atop the front of the A-frame, and a jockey-wheel is built from two halves plus a yoke and pivot, with an alternate all-steel wheel if you prefer. This can be fitted under the hitch in either horizontal position for travel, or vertically for a parked trailer, locking it in place between two halves of the pivot. Another longer length of wire is fitted under the left chassis rail and hitch frame, dangling the end down over the hitch, adding a plug for the electronics, which has a hole moulded-in for the wire. The safety chains are cut to length, and are each trapped between two halves of their bracket, adding the hook on the loose end after drilling a hole in the part first. Markings There are four decal options on the sheet, with a choice of camouflage that dictates the fitment of slatted sides and/or steel jockey wheel, so take care during construction if you have a particular scheme in mind. From the box you can build one of the following: 1st Army Corps (7th Army), US Army, Italy, Autumn, 1943 US Army, Europe, 1944-45 2nd Australian Corps., Bougainville Island, January 1945 US Navy, 1940s Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A trailer might not be one of the most charismatic of military vehicles, but its importance from a strategic point of view can’t be underestimated, as an army without supplies isn’t going very far, as has often been illustrated in extended campaigns throughout history. MiniArt have done a great job tooling this kit, and it will make an interesting addition behind your next softskin project, or as part of a diorama. This version has been so popular that Creative Models are currently out of stock, even though we’ve only had our sample a few days. Keep checking back though, as I’m certain they’ll be getting a restock just as soon as they can. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Tachikawa Ki-54Hei/Hickory (SH72270) 1:72 Special Hobby The design that was to become the Ki-54 was requested as a response to the need for a twin-engined trainer aircraft to teach novice pilots that had already learned to fly single-engined aircraft to specifics of flying a multi-engined aircraft. Tachikawa was a major aircraft manufacturer between the wars, and it was their design that won the contract and first flew in the summer of 1940, successfully entering service during 1941 before the Japanese Empire attacked Pearl Harbour and brought the USA into WWII. It was one of those aircraft that most multi-engined pilots spent time earning their wings on at the time, before they moved on to fly the Ki-21 bomber, which had similar flight characteristics to the Ki-54, so was ideal for the task. The initial Ki-54a variant was designed for pilot and navigator training, and given the suffix Koh, followed by Ki-54b, a Gunnery and Wireless trainer variant called Otsu, and finally the Ki-54c Hei, which was a transport and liaison variant that was also used in civilian service. A few airframes were converted to Ki-54d standards as anti-submarine bombers that were named Tei, with a total of just over 1,300 aircraft produced spanning all types. Named ‘Hickory; by the Allies for ease of identification, the aircraft survived the end of the war, with numerous airframes used by the Allies for sundry roles, and more finding their way to different parts of the world in civilian hands. It is perhaps for this reason that two still exist in China and Australia. The Kit This is a 2021 tooling of this lesser-known type, and arrives in a small top-opening box with a painting of the subject matter flying over a coast that is covered in thick jungle. Inside the box is a resealable clear foil bag that contains four sprues in grey styrene, the wing sprue in a different hue in my example, a small clear sprue and decal sheet in their own separate bags, plus the A5 portrait instruction booklet that is printed in colour on satin paper, with painting and decaling profiles on the rearmost pages. The wing sprue gives the impression that it is from a slightly earlier period, partly due to the colour of the styrene, but also because the fabric control surfaces are a little softer than those of the tail surfaces. Detail is good overall, and includes a seating area in the main fuselage behind the cockpit, gear bay details and a representation of the Hitachi radial engines that will be seen through the front of the cowlings. Construction begins with joining the two halves of the centre console together, then building the two crew seats from four parts each, with decal lap-belts on the sheet. Both crew members also have a two-part handed control column made, and the instrument panel has a decal applied to depict the dials, and a small V-shaped coaming to the front, after which the assemblies can be brought together on the small floor, starting with the centre console that also acts as the base for the instrument panel. The seats and control columns are mounted behind on raised location points, then the passenger seats are built with two short C-shaped legs under each cushion, adding the seat back to the rear, making six of them in total. They mount on the floor after it has the two spar sections glued across it, locating the seats on short rails moulded into the floor, and fitting raised sides that represent the inner root of the wings. A scrap diagram shows the location of the three bulkheads in red, which are fitted next along with what looks like overhead lockers along the insides of the fuselage above the side windows, cutting an extra window for one decal option that is marked by a depression from inside, all of which are glazed after the fuselage is closed, although for the sake of losing one or more inside, it might be wise to glue them into position beforehand. The cockpit bulkhead door has a small window added, fitting the cockpit in front, and the tail-wheel bay in the rear, then closing the fuselage, dealing with the seams in your preferred manner, and gluing the canopy over the cockpit cut-out. If you’re wondering why the passenger floor hasn’t been mentioned in closing the fuselage, it’s because it can be installed from beneath, locating on tabs moulded into the bottom of the bulkheads, taking care that the seats are facing forward. As you may have already surmised, the lower wings are moulded as a single full-span part, and once the seams with the upper halves are dealt with, you should paint the underside of the wing where the gear bay will be a suitable green shade before adding the three struts that begin the landing gear assembly. The nacelles are built in a slightly unusual manner, as the upper wing has the cowling moulded-in, requiring just the lower halves of the nacelles to be glued under the wing after inserting a bulkhead that is previously mated to the main gear legs and separate oleo scissor-links. A scrap diagram helps you with this, and two additional small parts are added while the lower nacelles are brought up to complete the shape. Another jack is fitted after the nacelles are complete, and a line drawing of the completed gear mechanism is shown to help with alignment of the parts. The two engine cowlings are each split horizontally, and are assembled in preparation for the engines over the page, first joining the wings to the fuselage and fitting the two elevators, one either side of the tail fin, their tabs slotting into holes beneath the fin with moulded-in rudder. The engines are each moulded as single parts that have a bulkhead moulded into their rears, mounting on the nacelles by way of a keyed peg that slots into a hole in the rear, covering them over with the nacelles, then adding an auxiliary intake and exhaust to the outer nacelle sides. The model is flipped over onto its back to complete the landing gear, adding two-part wheels to the axle on each strut along with a narrow captive gear bay on the forward side, inserting the tail-wheel with moulded-in strut into the tail, and the crew step under the port trailing-edge of the wing. Righting the model, the two-bladed props and separate spinner are slipped into the bell-housings on the front of the engines, clear landing lights and wingtip lights are inserted into the leading-edges of the wings, plus a pitot probe in the starboard side. Another clear light is inserted in the end of the fuselage, an antenna mast over the cockpit, and the side access door is fitted with a small window before it is fixed to the fuselage in open or closed position. If you plan on closing the door, it might be best to glue it in before the fuselage is closed, as this will give you the best chance of getting it nice and level with the surrounding fuselage skin. Incidentally, a scrap diagram shows that the landing light parts have a circular depression moulded into them for you to fill with paint to depict the reflector around the bulb if you wanted to add a little extra detail. Markings There are four decal options on the sheet, three of them have a green squiggle camouflage over the entire upper surface. Happily for the squiggle averse, one option is painted the basic grey/green shade worn by many/most Japanese aircraft of the day wore. From the box you can build one of the following: C/n 5541, 38th Sentai, Noshiro Base, Japan, 1943 Recovered from Towada lake and on display in Misawa Museum 28th Dokuritsu Hikotai, Chofu Base, Japan, 1945 10th Dokuritsu Hikodan Shireibu, Borneo, 1945 10th Dokuritsu Hikodan Shireibu, Borneo, late 1945 operated by the Japanese Capitulation Delegation. Currently intact in Australia The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion A well-detailed kit of this minor type from the Allies point of view, but an important one for the Japanese pilots that trained in them. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

A few years ago at Scale Model World HORNBY AIRFIX were giving out slips of paper on which visitors could write down the models that they wished for. On my paper I wrote 1/72 AW Argosy and as I handed it in to some young assistant who probably had no idea what an Argosy was I thought " no chance ". I have wished for an injection moulded 1/72 Argosy for years and hoped that a mainstream manufacturer would produce one. Then at last year's Scale Model World there it was to my absolute surprise, on display in a glass cabinet on the F-RESIN stand courtesy of Mr Palix of MACH 2 a built up RAF Argosy in camouflage scheme, And on the table were the sprues of parts for anybody interested to study closely. I already had experience of MACH 2 as I had built their Breguet Atlantic so I knew what to expect.............................. But there in front of me was a built up one so they must be buildable.............. They seemed to be flying off the stand to eager buyers so I thought I better get one before they ran out so I bought the RAF silver and white version. On arriving home a close study of the parts gave me some misgivings. The plastic parts had a rough surface with lumps of molten plastic stuck to them. Small parts such as aerials and vortex generators were so crude that they would require scratch making. But really this is what I expected anyway. The instructions only give a rough idea about particular areas of the model as you are expected to already know something about the subject you are building. What did impress me was the inspiring colour scheme and decal placement guide printed in full colour. The quality of the decals looked to be excellent. My wife wanted it to be a Christmas present so I became distracted with another project and it wasn't until March this year that I started cutting plastic off the thick sprues and set to on the laborious task of cleaning up the parts. The Argosy was finally completed in September and I was able to display it on our model club table at Scale Model World where it was the only Argosy to appear in the whole show............. What has happened to all those Argosies that were bought last year ? I took photos of the build as it progressed and so I will share these with you in the sequence that I built it as though I were building it now. Adrian I'm laughing because I know what's coming next...................TOMMY COOPER

A model from 9 years ago: The second vac for today, this time a rather unrefined kit by VLE. I checked right now and the kit seems to be listed, but not available, by Aviation Megastore, that is using photos of my model and my build to portray the kit, without permission or even a mere credit. Great business practices, I see. The Fokker Universal has highly significant historical value, was produced in large numbers in many variants, can be seen in skis, floats and wheels, and had such diverse and attractive liveries from many countries, that I honestly do not understand why it hasn't been kitted to a higher level yet more recently. We finally got a rather clunky Fokker F.VII from Valom (I posted one here), but no Universal or Super Universal. Me, I would love to see kitted a four-engined Fokker F.32: From the San Diego Air and Space Museum Flickr photostream: From Wikipedia: But again I digress. The Fokker Universal, the subject of this article, was the first American Fokker, designed by Robert Noorduyn and produced in New Jersey by the Atlantic Aircraft Corporation. Although it kept a number of Fokker design trade marks, it also incorporated some local know-how. Starting on 1926 more than forty were built, and a number of them went to Canada. Wheels, floats and skis were all comfortable shoes for the Universal. So here it is the Universal kit in 1/72, thanks to VLE Models, a rather simple an unsophisticated kit, but providing some extra bits. As you can tell by the images, there is a low count of vac parts and a number of details provided either as metal, resin or extruded styrene (struts) plus decals for several versions. The decals are of just passable quality and heck, there are a lot, but I went for my home-made brew. For the reasonably experienced modeler there are a lot of other versions livery-wise out there too, if you can print you own decals. Once the parts were extracted from the sheets and sanded down, minor adjustments were made to help their fit. The wing construction is similar to that of the VLE’s T-2, in having a wraparound leading edge that fits to a lip provided by the upper and lower wing parts. That lip or step has in this case to be reduced to the minimum expression in order to allow the LE to fit properly. Some panel lines were a bit undefined and had to be re-scribed. A certain amount of filler was also applied to deal with a few gaps. For most of the sanding I used wet sanding with wet-or-dry sand paper attached to flat surfaces (small and big). With the kit you get, besides the above-mentioned multi-decal options, floats, skis and wheels to dress your Universal in the appropriate attire. The cockpit area is also covered by the extra parts plus a bulkhead that closes the cabin area. You will have to provide a cabin interior according to the version you are building. A clear plastic strip is provided for the windows. It is covered, both sides, by a protective film. This is a simpler and smaller build than the same brand T-2, and things proceeded smoothly on. In the intermezzos I read out loud poems by Mark Strand, which, as it is universally known, always helps to tame the model parts and provide for a better fit. Next the interior was added with some structure that is visible from outside and that, in the case of the windows, will later support the transparencies. The fus halves were glued, and wing and stab added, then the metal part that accounts for the main frame of the landing gear, which, by the way, helps a lot with all those struts. Once dried, the joins and little faults were remedied with Milliput and putty. Metal control horns were added where necessary and little holes made for the minor parts and future rigging. Brass “Strutz” tailskid was added. The usual filling/priming/sanding cycle went on couple of times, and then the wing was painted to replicate the wood finish, using a combination of acrylics, oils and clear coats. A few photoecthed parts were added here and there. For the fuselage alu dope finish Humbrol 56 was used. The home-made decals were applied and then the rigging (kinda complex in this one, as the control cables are exposed). Struts were added and with engine, minor details and windshield it was done. Bear in kind that many machines exhibit minor differences in their strut arrangement, not only because of the skis or floats, but also among wheel-equipped machines. Variations can be noticed in rudder profile, cockpit area and the immediate wing surface directly after the cockpit. Exhausts have many alternate arrangements. The plane represented by the model is one of the two Colonial Air Transport Universals that were allocated to CAM-1, under contract with the U.S. Post Office. The strange registrations are due a short-lived system that was used at the time. The window on the door was covered. I opted to make my wing in wood finish, as many other Fokker were like that.

A build from 5 years ago: I am always thrilled by the clunky but charming Farman designs. Their simplicity is not in any way a detriment to their beauty, furthermore, their somehow squarish lines look always harmonious and balanced. The 250 is not the exception, and although a passenger carrier, its stance and proportions give the impression of a racy machine. One sole sample was built and went to the Société générale des transports aériens, the SGTA from now on. Simplicity, we were saying, was Farman’s trademark, which in modeling terms generally translates as an easier building process. The only part that needed an extra effort was the bump on the upper fuselage deck, vacuformed in a snap over a Sculpey master . The interior followed a description in a Flight magazine article of the era. Colors were the source of animated and highly educated speculation among fellow modelers until some very credible conclusions were reached. I got an after-market engine and wheels, both had to be touched-up: The engine required a special exhaust arrangement and the wheels the fabrication of cone-shaped covers. A few details were added too: the Pitot tube, wind-driven generator, tail skid, Venturi and navigation lights. Home-made decals and a windshield completed the model. These French know Charm.

Hi guys, Thought I would get some photos up of the Mach2 Argosy. It won't be a full on WIP, just little updates from time to time. Booms just pushed on for photo. and where it's at now, that centre wing section has been a PITA & will need a rescribe, but other than that it's been an OK build. My weakness has always been building 'neat' and finishing seams off perfectly.... but this time round it's looking a lot better... More, soon....................

When I was a kid I dreamt of becoming a Pilot when I grew up - not a fighter pilot, mind you - no I wanted to fly Hercules! Now I'm grown up (some would say too grown especially in the midwaist area! ) and my dream didn't come through. So lately I've become a bit nostalgic, and started to buy the kits of my childhood, including e.g. Airfix 1/72 Beagle Basset 206, which will be in Royal Air Force Transport Command livery. That started me going and I started buying more transportplanes in 1/72 for the smaller and 1/144 for the larger ones all which will be RAF-planes! So far I have: 1/72 Beagle Basset 206 1/72 C-130 1/72 Scottish Aviation Twin Pioneer 1/144 C-130 1/144 Blackburn Beverley and a 1/144 VC-10, Britannia, C-17 and Comet on the way. I understand that there may be an 1/144 Argosy on the way this year and there is an Anigrand 1/144 Belfast but what more post WW2 RAF transport planes are there out there? Cheers Hans J

Patrol Craft Fast (PCF), also known as Swift Boats, were all-aluminum, 50-foot (15 m) long, shallow-draft vessels operated in Vietnam primarilybby the United States Navy, Initially patrolling the coastal areas they later took to the interior waterways as part of the 'Brown-water Navy' where they carried out interdiction, counter insurgency, troop transport and special forces insertion. In total Eighty-four Mark I Swift boats served in Vietnam, with a further twenty reserved for training, however they are frequently overlooked in favour of their more heavily armed and warlike cousins the PBRs, Landing Ships and Monitors with whom they fought alongside. ..... The Brown Water Navy as a whole is rather overlooked in modelling terms, and the PCF is no exception despite it's distinguished service. As far as I'm aware the Revell kit is the only kit generally available and although being rather old (1967), quite basic (61 parts) and lacking in any type of interior detail it appears to be quite accurate and has some potential. .... For the princely sum of £20 inc p+p I now have 2 of these. I shall tackle one and hide the other for a possible future project (original civilian or demobbed perhaps)