bentwaters81tfw

Aeroclub ones are all gone, I had the last one from John.

Handley Page HP 67 Hastings C.1 of 99 Squadron RAF Transport Command 1956 S&M Models resin hollow cast kit. 1/72 scale. Notes on the build appear in the Cold War section.

Never seem them before but I suspect it's to keep the sea spray out of the exhaust ports. CFF beat me to it.

On a trailer today, a white SS Jaguar, and rolling chassis, with engine, scuttle, and interior of what looked to be a D Type Jaguar. The entire front and rear bodywork was missing, and it was LHD.

Why not contact Mel? Perhaps his manufacturer may have a solution, or Mel might send you a replacement part. OTOH, Radleigh on here has experience of resin kits (this was my first, and I have several others) and he may have a suggestion or two.

I would imagine it's fair use. Quote the source by all means to cover eventualities. Considering there was no internet back then, I would not imagine there would be a problem if credits are given. I'm sure Mike will be able to clarify matters. If no reply is forthcoming by end of play today, just 'report' your own post. The little flag that appears at the top right corner of your text box. A Mod will then pick it up.

Although production of this kit runs to about 100 kits, I know a few of us have stumped up the readies. Mine is now fully decalled and only requires the wheels and props attaching. I have found one or two details that need addressing to save you a little trouble. This is a resin kit, and when assembled is relatively heavy compared with i/m. The u/c comprises white metal legs throughout with flattened resin wheels. There is a main heavy casting with an H pattern retraction strut. This strut may need shortening slightly to get the main casting at the correct angle. The oleo struts glue into the main casting, and are approx 1.5mm in diameter, and terminate in an axle box. The oleos are also too long. Under load, the axle boxes are only just proud of the heavy castings - check the photographic references ion our Walkaround section* These oleo struts are very weak and bend easily under the weight of the airframe. I have just had one snap off. I recommend the following fix. You will need a mini vise and a 1.2mm drill. Firstly drill the holes in the main leg casting 2-3mm deeper (more if you like). Take each (4) axle boxes and cut off the oleo strut. Do these one at a time so you have a reference point. Drill the axle box vertically to accept a replacement steel oleo pin. Superglue replacement oleos. Second point. The axle boxes have a large diameter peg instead of an axle shaft. The wheels are resin and have a centre spot marked but will need to be drilled to fit the legs. I have drilled a 1.2mm hole across the axle boxes and through the wheel hub to accept a steel axle pin. I then reamed out either side of the hub to accept the pegs. Obviously you will end up with two holes drilled at 90 degrees to each other, but the axle box is big enough, and a dollop of super glue holding the axle and oleo will strengthen the whole assembly. It's a bit of a faff, but will result in u/c that will take the weight of the model. The tail wheel will just superglue into the fork and mudguard. On the instruction sheet, Mel says fit the main gear wells into the wing with slow setting epoxy, then fit the nacelles. Be sure to assemble in the stated order - however: The wells can be dropped into place dry, the nacelle offered up with a dab of superglue at the rear, then the well can be positioned with a finger and thin superglued. The front of the nacelle can then be superglued to the wing. You will need to file some corners here and dry fit in order to get the correct alignment. The fuselage halves have a rough finish to the mating surfaces. DO NOT be tempted to sand these smooth. If you do, the fuselage will be too narrow and you will have problems with the (resin) canopy - no spare. Test fit and file the windows to get a snug fit - particularly the rectangular ones. I used Clearfix. Match the fuselage halves carefully (The cockpit bulkhead may need filing) tape together with strips, and superglue in short sections. Start above and behind the cockpit and work aft. Then underneath and work forwards, closing the nose last. Let each application dry before starting the next. Then you can sand and fill the joint as required. I found the canopy to be slightly wide and low at the back. After dipping in Klear, I superglued one rear corner on the vertical join - Not the cill. I left it over night then did the same the other side, nipping the canopy between fingers to ensure alignment. When this cured, the corners were flush, and top lined up without a dip. Any gaps were taken up with superglue or GS Hypo and Deluxe perfect putty. The inner wings will need fettling to get a snug fit at the root. A sharp knife and a small flat file will take care of this and any other fine adjustments you need. The under nose glazing may also need the 'glue one corner at a time' treatment as well. When fitting the tailplane, glue flush with the cabin roof joint, and fill any horizontal gaps under the tailplane afterwards with plastic shims and filler. If you do it the other way, you will have a nasty step to fill on the cabin roof. Don't forget to fit the tailwheel well before the tailplane! A final point. The astrodome has no lip to it, and mine at least is very slightly oval, as is the hole. You can see where this is going. After retrieving the dome twice from the inside if the finished airframe, I used a large dollop of Clearfix to glaze the hole, then fitted the dome on top with the longer axis longitudinally on the airframe Aside from that, it goes together with little fuss. * Frank.

Can you not get automotive paint in rattle cans down under? I would have thought it was pretty universal.

That is inspired. I see the horse is from the Devil's herd. The red eyes. Perhaps just a wisp of cotton wool from the nostrils?

I dislike white paint. Happily Halfords Appliance White rattle cans are a godsend. The secret is light coats. Just leaving it to gas out and harden up before masking it off.

I've only just found this as well, as I don't do group builds. I have one of these at a similar stage of build. An uninspring kit. I began this over 20 years ago, and it sat until last month. I had to dig out the nose and tail fairings for one of our members, and decided to finish it off. The white paint is about to be sprayed.

So what is the news for those of us who don't do Faceache?

I use rattle cans wherever possible.

Thanks Ken. I have Halfords Polar Grey as well.

Thanks Richard. Humbrol 165 MSG I have in rattle cans so that's easy. Doesn't seem blue enough, but that is probably down to in service fading.

Self explanatory really. Looking for an appropriate blue/grey for the topside of the Backfire. The ESCI kit instructions call for Humbrol 27, which is way off. Any suggestions folks? TIA Frank

That's a shame but understandable. I would love one in 1/48, but have grabbed this one as it's likely to be the only game in town. What an awesome beast in the air!

Thank you!

Pre orders to France and Belgium only.

There is one already Takes a bit of work though.

I have a nice FROG in the stash.

I've seen one of those as well, when they first came out. Today in Cambridge. A Citroen HY van and a Renault Estafette 800 high roof van parked together. Last week. H reg Peugeot 205. Getting rare now.

Ain't that the truth!

I bought some exactly like Mike's link. Absolutely useless.

FPS is useless to remove paint. They changed the formula. Try Mr Muscle oven cleaner.