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2Step

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  1. OK, I just realized this might be confusing. I used a river barge of 1/87 scale as a work boat here, but it is not in these pics. You can see it in the WIP. Sorry for any confusion.
  2. Besides the big decals, I don't even want to blame it on the kit. My very first F1 kit was the 1994 Benetton. Then I discovered (way before the internet age) the 1/20 scale and Tamiya and was building (or collecting ) them nearly exclusively. But when there was a lull in available kits like 10, 15 years ago, I bought a few of the Revell kits, mostly on sale. Well, besides a MP-4/13 they all build now and I still have a stack of about 15 1/20 Tamiya, Fujimi and Academy kits - plus about 4 started but unfinished kits. Cheers
  3. I know what you mean. That is why I treated small segments of the build as individual kits (e.g. the guns, mines, torpedoes, bridge ....). I had downloaded the S-100 instructions to see if I find the surplus pieces of my kit used in there (Not really, mostly I was looking for the Oerlikon, but that must be some other version?). The instructions seem to be very similar - and mine had a bunch of errors in them. Mislabeled pieces, mixed up pieces etc. Nothing really very bad, but a lot of head scratching and looking for the proper piece. If you start your build, read my WIP, I pointed most of the deficiencies out in there. Cheers
  4. Thanks, but the Benetton and the Jordan did not have those accidents on purpose Actually some of the damages are from my many moves, which don't go well with fragile models. E.g. the 1/12 JPS, The Benetton and the Zakspeed. And again .... sometimes my photo taking skills are better than my modelling skills which helps to cover up the errors 😇 Cheers
  5. I agree completely with your statement about being perfectionists. Worth the display? Yeah I guess, as in that particular cabinet you practically excusively see one side of the kit, so "best foot forward". Andhave it collect a couple of years of dust and it will look perfect Cheers
  6. Thanks for the compliments. That was a Tamiya rattle can TS10 French Blue that was sitting around waiting for me to get to my Tamiya Ligier. I assumed the blue color is supposed to represent the French racing color (this being a Renault) and therefore should match pretty well. Cheers
  7. Here is the (more or less) final version of the Schnellboot. It does not show any boat in particular, but rather a typical boat of that class in the Black Sea around 1943 in the process of resupplying after the nightly sortie. I took some (artistic) liberties (e.g. no green deck, mines and torpedoes loaded parallel, etc.) but otherwise tried to be as accurate as possible. Crew is Miniart and Tamiya, folks on the dock are some 40 year old Tamiyas and Italeries repainted, dock, crane and building scratch build, supplies Miniart and scratch, the mines are from AFV, the rails scratch. The Oerlikon on the dock was surplus in the kit. The barge is 1/87 from my farthers train set, repurposed I am still fantasizing to produce some kind of water surface to give it a more diorama like look, but am not sure exactly how I want to do that. Give it some time ... Also in the works: a Miniart A400 Tempo 3 wheel truck for delivering more supplies to be added at a later time. This was my first serious try at 1/35, but now that I tasted blood (and as long there is room on the same shelf!!!), there is of course a Italian MTB that was also used by the Germans at the same port, there a the mini subs like the Biber etc., and maybe a plane buzzing overhead? Thanks for looking and reading, comments of course always welcome! Work in progress was posted here: My other maritime subjects are here: Deutsche Marine https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yn65LrC4H3Xv2qmx5 Battle of the Atlantic (Very loosely named ) https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejKuxEzNpACkLhwr8 Cheers
  8. I am using two different cabinets Maybe I should have said OOB instead of easier. For the Revell kits I don't have/use aftermarket details or decals - and, like I said, if possible leave out the engine, so no detailing there, using the kit's decals for seatbelts etc. ... Thanks for your encouragement. BTW, here are my other racing models: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3R7EApxULTfrgsPu6 (Also showing of some of my other mishaps) Cheers
  9. As I said, I took care to show it from it's best side ... but thanks! Yeah, I hardly throw kits away, at least they can serve as spare parts. I got rid of some that I build as a teenager or younger only recently (and I am retired). I always thought I could bring them still up to my todays standards. But some of them were broken by my many moves and just beyond repair. So I kept some pieces for future projects and the rest had to go.
  10. Great build, I agree... As to the varnish: I mostly just use Future floor wax, mostly applied with a brush, because I am a total idiot with an airbrush. But according to build reports, Future also works great with airbrushes. Depending on how thick, resp. how many layers you aplly, the finished shine will vary from semi matt to very shiny. Cheers
  11. Normally I am not such a great fan of presenting somewhat botched models, but here we go in the name of complete honesty (after all, not all kits come out perfect, don't they?): As mentioned in a previous post, I am in quite a spare with my race car models since some years. Suddently it 2eemed, as if I could do nothing right anymore. Consequently, I had like 5 unfinished kits sitting around, where I got stuck because of some flaw or the other. And a stack of about 30 kits which I didn't even dared to start. Recently I decided to just go ahead again ... I went with the "easier" Revell 1/24 kits before trying my hand again at my stack of 1/20 F1 cars. So, after completing one of the unfinished cars, I wanted to do this little kit as a "weekend edition" out of box (I even left the engine completly out). It went pretty well in the beginning, until I decided to use the kit provided decals for the yellow parts of the livery. The decals either would really bend in all the right directions or, with the help of softener, dissolve nearly instantly. As a result, some of the not dissolved pieces dry on wrongly and partly scaled of afterwards, while the dissolved sections looked like anything but the original. To add to the insult, I also had massive problems with the fitting of the rear wing. Which, honesty - remember - started with me glueing the wings to the endplates forward side backwards. It didn't get better after that .... I tried to correct some parts with paint but then just went ahead and finished the build without too much care for covering all mishaps or any more details (as one result, there are no exhaust pipes within the "chimneys"). I tried the pictures from the best angles and actually the car sitting in my shelf on a not too prominent spot, it is - let's say - OK. (here you can spot some of the damage, especially around the front suspension and near the "E" / "elf" on the engine cover) Thanks for looking and coments welcome as always. Cheers
  12. Judging by the quality of your garage, you will make something very nice. My other set up was an "emergency exit" on a race track, so it didn`t look too funny to have a car without driver or a standing driver outside the car on what is supposed to be a stretch of the race track. It also allows you to build a marshall's post or something similar if you like. However, the more technical details you put on, the less you are free with the scale of the kits you want to photograph on the set.
  13. Btw, kudos for your garage diorama. Exactly the attention to detail that I love, where you always can discover some new little thing. That's what makes it so convincing!!
  14. They are lovely photos because I avoided showing (most) of my mistakes 😇 But thank you for your praise, I apperciate it.
  15. I had two older versions, which are now taken apart (parts visible in the online pictures) and the one used here. I think the trick is to have a long enough set so the car can be shown in all angles and then a wall or something similar to make a nice transition to a real landscape behind (which should not have too many things that make the scale or the setting identifiable, e.g. the neighbors house with the neighbor on the balcony. I think they pics of the Audi here show what I mean, but in that case there is no real landscape in the background but a calendar picture. What I like about pictures taken outside is the light and the sky. You cannot really imitade that in the hobby room.
  16. Yeah, one of mine too I had a chance to see the real thing at the Monterey Historics. When you touch it, it seems unbelievable that such a "wobbly" thing can go over 360km/h at Mulsanne Thanks. I prefer a model in a showcase rather than in the closet too
  17. P.S. The broken Benetton and Jordan are victims to clumsy building and breaking the suspension (Jordan) respectively moving (Benetton).
  18. Thanks for the praise. It does look ok, but nothing like I had originally envisioned; but then, my visions are often exceeding my capabilites. The paint job is better than it appears on the pics, especially the second. The decals might have settled a bit better since then.... Glad you liked the other pics too. For the JPS I originally wanted to do the Imperial paint scheme and already bought the decals. But then my 1/12 Lotus got bashed in one of my many moves and I stayed with the JPS. The workshop is actually a crude pit stop diorama that I had build about 20 years ago for picture taking purposes The Surtees in the pic is another unfinished business. My only resin car kit I bought about 25 years ago from some Brazilian manufacturer. I ran again into difficulties and since then it is as shown. Other cars in that catagory: a 1/20 Ferrarri F1-2000 for which I bought a super detail set and botched up the paint job probably irrepairable. I might have to buy a new Tamiya kit for that. However, by now I might have grown too old for the detail set. If I remember right, alone one brake disc hat like 6 or 7 parts plus each screw made out of thin wire. Just matching all the wires and the holes up, probably would drive me insane nowadays 🤪 (Although, on the other side, each kit seems to look better with the deteriorating eye sight ) My favorite photo is of the Benetton 192. I took it in my back yard in 2005. The hill and bushes you see in the background at the very left corner are actually on the crest where the famous Corkscrew combination takes it first left turn on the race track of Laguna Seca! Great place to live, albeit only for two years (my wife hated the noise as you could hear each individual car accelarating up the long hill leading toward that turn). Cheers
  19. This was a problem child of mine. Not because the kit is bad ... it is actually a pretty well made kit with a huge potential for detailing. I got it on sale to add to my already too high stack of racing cars. When I finally started it about 5 years ago, I ran into a lot of troubles, mostly of my own making. I had bad luck with a few race carkits over the last years, someone must have put some bad voodoo on me. So, the car went half build into the closet (together with a few others). As I always was feeling bad for not having finished it whenever I saw the box (always), I manned up and finished it as a quick "weekend build" without any details or attention to parts you anyhow hardly see. So, not my best work, but finally complete and out of the closet and out of my mind 🏁 Thanks for looking, any comments welcome. Cheers here are my other racing models: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3R7EApxULTfrgsPu6
  20. Hi, this was a spontaneous purchase as it was on sale while I got some other kits. I am waiting for Mach 2 to rerelease their Vostoks, so I can keep going with my "1st of" series. But another rocket cannot hurt It's plain out of the box. I even stuck with the instructions, which didn't go to well with the decals IMHO. Not a lot of detail, even for 1/125 and I briefly considered to detail it myself - and then opted for a quick an easy build. Still, looks ok in the showcase .... As always, thanks for looking, comments welcome. Cheers Here is the rest of my space collection https://photos.app.goo.gl/DLrnifbiBdBnwxfF7 and SciFi https://photos.app.goo.gl/75G5di2pDGK5bh1S9
  21. I just realized my last post from beginning of the week wasn't actually posted I must have not pressed ENTER or so ... Well, I had some down time, not hobby related. Then I changed the jetty, as announced. The original limiting factor was the availability of the "bigger blocks" plastic profile (as seen in the pic below). That was a leftover of my fathers HO train set which I salvaged after we had to take the set down, when he was diagnosed with cancer. It was a big set up and he sold about have his trains etc. but after he passed a couple of years ago, I still have about 50+ engines and a a few hundred waggons etc. I couldn't get a reasonable price for. So I found instead a place to put at least the engines in a showcase at my place. Since then, I managed to reuse a bunch of little things that I could take with me in my projects, e.g. that plastic profile (which must be from like the 60's if not earlier!!), as a memeory of my dad. So, I had to redo the jetty differently. I also had to partly make a new surface, which not totally came out as I had wanted it to. I also added the 20mm gun: After that came the railing which went ok and after that it kind of went downhill. The windows on the bridge were one desaster ofter the other: I couldn't bent the PE parts as required, so I cut them. The white glue (normally my favorite for clear plastic parts), didn't hold the pieces together. Taking it apart, the metal was bend out of shape. Then I used superglue which of course, as ecpected, I could not keep away from the clear plastic. In the meantime I had to paint it a few times because due to all the man handling, the paint was chipping. My only excuse is, I can tell from my own experience that plexiglas or real glas in the harsh environment of the sea does not keep very well. In that aspect, I guess, it looks very accurate. I don't understand why Italeri could not have molded each window as one piece in clear plastic instaed of 3 PE parts and the clear plastic sheet.... Judge by yourself: Final act in the drama: some soft weathering of the hull, as you can see above and here: So, I consider this more or less done. I did not do the camouflage of the hull, the weathering of the below waterline hull, the mooring lines are still missing and I left out the swivelling chairs in the bridge (my CO is a hard nose who doesn't think his watch officers need those creature comforts - and the pieces would have not really fit with the two crewmembers I placed there). When I have some decent weather conditions to take some good pictures, I will post those pictures in the completed section of the forum. Until then, thanks everybody for watching and your very helpful comments. If you have any more, please feel free! Cheers
  22. Aaah, reading the earlier posts again, I think you mentioned that. Sorry for not reading carefully enough the first time around And again: it is already looking pretty good - and better than any of my attempts at rendering water - Looking forward to the final results Cheers
  23. Pr4obably everybody said already everything. Let me just add that is absolute proof of one of modelling thesises: You don't have to add every detail, as long as you have enough details that the onlooker believes the scene. This has a fantastic amount of detail and really makes me believe. Great work. Cheers
  24. I think you caught the looks of a Burke class excellent! Especially the subtle weathering (I was surprised how dirty/rusty those cans get) and, as mentioned before, the rendering of the sea is 1st class. Cheers
  25. Looking very good. It's a bit hard to tell from the pictures, but the white foam close to the hull and in the wake looks a bit to shiny. From my experience that part has a more matte look. I don't have too many of my old pictures digitalized, but this maybe shows a little bit what I mean? (Actually, here all the water looks more matte, so maybe not the best example...) Of course, it is much easier being critical, my own renderings of water never really matched the real thing. For my next try I will come back to some of your techniques ... Cheers
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