larchiefeng

The curtains look great, I would probably just go ahead and print them all. I don’t think that you would be able to achieve the correct scale with real material. The chairs look much better and definitely more in scale between the seat bottom and back. The other seat backs look way too tall when compared with your recent prints. There is nothing wrong with using the new tools at hand to enhance and improve your scratch building. After all, isn’t producing the most realistic representation of your subject the goal here? Being able to learn how to draw a 3D CAD drawing and get to the printer and a slicer program is not exactly an easy thing to do! Using a 3D printer is just an evolution of scratch building.

It's good to know that I was looking the kitchen instead of the bathroom! I'm guessing that the barman accesses behind the bar through the kitchen? The detail on the glasses is pretty amazing as well as all the little bits here and there. It all makes it look like the 1:1 real deal.

Wow! When I look at this overhead picture including a glimpse into the bathroom, I can't help but marvel at all of the pieces and know that every one of them is hand made by one means or another. Nothing is from any other kit that, I can recall and that is a extremely impressive feat! And, we're only talking about what we see there; that doesn't include the whole rest of the build including all the artwork inside and outside! Well done!

Small victories like this make all the repetitive things like doing the same windows over 40 times, worth while. When you get bored with all the windows just look at the whole bar area with the cabinets, bar top, bar itself and the cool map on the wall! That ought to keep you going for a while! Great work!

Here’s a little trick with the rattle can paint to get the paint to flow better before shaking the can. I put the cans in warm water about half way and let them sit for a couple minutes before shaking the cans. It gets the so it mixes better and then hopefully eliminate the sputtering when it is spraying. It also helps to have a clean nozzle. I’m probably not telling you anything that you don’t already know. I’m also guilty of being in a hurry and not always doing it but, if it’s something important I always do it.

Cigarettes and Monte Cristos? Then you’re going to need ashtrays, matches and lighters to go with the scotch bottles and glasses etc.! It never ends out here in “Hendie Nation”! We just can’t get enough of your creativity!

I like the last option! I was just reading an old article about Dan Jayne and his remarkable cut away aircraft models and that’s what put the idea in my head. It’s just that you have put so much time and effort into creating this piece that it would be a shame to not be able to show it off. Especially with all the cajoling err browbeating err helpful suggestions we all have been providing. I’m sure that whatever you decide will great!

Good to see you back on this! Great workshop and lots of work space! I like the addition of the work table in the middle and I expect that, you will too as the build progresses. I have quite a bit of counter space but, I find that things rapidly pile up around where I'm actually working. With all the big sub assemblies and wanting them close by to fit and mocking up you really do need lots of square footage to lay it all out and still have ready access to it. The only other comment here is, it's too clean!

Martini glasses should also be on the 3D printing list! When you mentioned that certain things wouldn't be seen when it's all closed up, I started thinking that, it would be a shame to hide everything under the roof. A couple of thoughts on that, first, would be to make the whole roof removable or failing that, make certain sections removable to show off the more interesting or intricate areas of the interior. Two other options would be to use clear plastic on various sections over the aforementioned areas. And lastly, and probably the least probable would be to cut out sections like aircraft models opened up to show framing and everything under the skin. I know, after five plus years, you're probably anxious to finish this one but, we all enjoy watching you work your scratch building magic and keep prodding you to keep the build alive! LOL

Thanks for the great review. I didn’t expect you to go into so much detail but, having said that, I trust your experience with the printer and we’ve all seen the results to be comfortable with buying it. You never know what you’re reading is true or accurate unless it’s coming from a trusted source. Thanks again!

I did some research on the Mars printer and I found a few comments regarding the print bed cracking being “unavoidable”. I found that comment on more than one review which kinda makes me a little nervous about buying one. The other thing that I see is that the Mars printer requires the VAT liner be replaced every liter of resin. I’m wondering if you have had any problems or have come to the point where you have to do any type of maintenance on it yet?

Hendie, just out of curiosity, which resin 3D printer do you have? And, Schwartz, did you order the same one or something different? I have an old Robo 3D extrusion printer that, I got 5-6 years ago and have had a lot of problems with it and I just quit trying to use it. I also have another delta style 3D printer that is still new in the box which, I obviously never used. At the time I was getting the Robo printer I was about to get a SLA resin printer for around $1000. I finally decided to not get it after seeing how much the resin was going to cost and the maintenance with certain parts having to be replaced on a fairly regular basis. I can tell you that the print quality of the resin SLA printer is far superior to the extruded type using the rolls of ABS or PLA. After seeing Schwartz’s post, I took a look on Amazon and I was amazed at how low the prices are for the resin printers and, that’s why I’m curious to see which ones that you guys have. It’s looking like the resin printers are becoming very affordable. Thanks in advance for the information! BTW, the side panels look amazing!! I’m starting to get a little excited to see how this all comes together!

Great work Hendie! I’m just taking advantage of being kept at a reasonable social distance from most everyone and using my morning to catch up on your build. It looks great and it’s good to watch you sort out the various problems and the number of redos that come with scratch building. What I most like about this thread aside from the model itself, is the thought process. Watching you work through the problems and then coming up with a solution or sometimes multiple solutions. Your process gives me ideas for my build, albeit a completely different subject the process translates. Looking at this last picture brought up question in my mind, which, is the roof of the car when completed? I know that I’m jumping wayyy ahead but, that’s how my mind works. I know that you have had to given it some thought. I hadn’t until, I enlarged the picture and saw the compound curves on the corners. If I may offer a suggestion, use the 3D printer to make the corner or end caps. Just a thought. Anyway, keep up the great work on your “break times”

I got it figured out, I wasn’t looking at it correctly. I also needed to cut off a piece of a Pocher part for the spacer and then it all came together

Ok thanks, I’ll get a couple of part numbers and take a couple of pictures of the exact parts and location

Beautiful work! Thanks for the reference materials on this section of the engine. I did have a question about how the PE part fits on the actual waste gate itself. Once it’s folded it doesn’t look like it fits around the two round waste gate pieces. Maybe I’m just looking at it wrong. I also like the way you molded the MB brass pieces onto the exhaust headers and integrated the waste gate pipes in to make it appear to be part of each header. Keep up the great work!

I don’t think that there’s a “standard” color for a lot of the pre-war classic car engine parts. I don’t know about the Rolls-Royce for sure but, I would imagine that, of any of the pre-war cars they might be the most likely to have had something of a standard color palate. When I was building the engine for my Alfa Monza and ,doing research on the colors of the engine, I found a wide variety of colors. I talked to David Cox about that and he told me that back then there was no such thing as a standard color for engine or transmission parts for the Alfa’s. They just used whatever color in a can of paint that they had on hand. I suspect that the Rolls-Royce factory might have been a little more discerning in that regard than, the Italians. The point that I’m trying to make is, I wouldn’t get too hung up on whether or not you have the exact perfect color on a particular engine part. When the model is finished the bonnet/hood will likely either be closed or partially open and it’s likely to stay that way. It’s probably going to be inside of a case to be admired from a distance; you will not be handling it. Likewise the the chassis and undercarriage will probably never be seen unless you have a mirror under the model. These models are big and heavy and with lots of small detail, you will not be picking it up to show off the brakes or transmission. So, with that in mind I think that whatever looks right will probably be fine.

LOL Thanks guys! Just like with the tools, I accumulated the models over the course of the last 20 years or so thinking that, when I retired I would have the time to build them. I started picking up things that interested me and that, I thought were cool and sometimes different subjects. But, it got way out of hand and it became a case of “my eyes were bigger than my stomach”! I think that, there’s slightly over 500 models there. What you don’t see is all the models underneath the workbench counter and in the build up etc. Here’s where the irony comes into play; now having just officially re-retired yesterday and now having nothing to keep me off the bench like, a pesky job, my wife has a new list for me. However, that’s not the ironic part, it’s that now my interest is pretty much just models like the Pochers and more specifically the F-40 I’m working on. So, besides looking at my “wallpaper” what do I do with all these models that will never get built? I think that I’m slightly over stocked! I don’t want my wife and kids to just throw it all away when I die and I’m not crazy about selling everything on eBay and giving them and PayPal 13%-15% of the proceeds essentially taking any and all of my profits while I do all the work! Anyway, I really do need to start thinning the collection down to just the few kits that, I would like to keep. Which, when you think about how long it takes to build one, isn’t many. So, if any of you guys have any ideas, I’m open for suggestions. Real quick, on the Molotow pens, they are like a smaller marker pen tip and they come in different tip sizes. They are pretty easy to use and, yes, I have a couple in one of the paint drawers. The one tool that I am going to get out and start experimenting with and trying to use is the mini lathe. I was looking at a couple of pictures of the waste gates on the F-40 and, there’s a picture of a polished aluminum one. And, I thought that the lathe would probably be a good idea to make one with more detail than the plastic kit piece. So, that is on my agenda. Anyway, Brian, I didn’t mean to hijack your thread but, if you have any questions about a specific tool, just ask; I probably have it

My room is not quite as neat as yours, lol

That’s good that you were able to get the calipers at a good price. I usually keep a couple spare batteries on hand. Also, not a bad idea to have the extra parts for the body etc. No, I’m not an artist but, you are pretty close with your second guess. I was an auto mechanic and service manager for Toyota for 20 years. And, more recently for the last 20 years, I was the chief engineer and director of facilities for a resort hotel and the two towns/villages and, finally I have been working here at the same lake where all the aforementioned properties surround. So, I guess that accounts for my mechanical and problem solving skills. I just posted some pictures, on your thread, of my tools, paint and supplies for you to look at. It’s probably just my background that accounts for my over abundance of tools and where I live accounts for the more than enough supply of scratch building supplies. I live up in the mountains and it’s not every day that I can get down the hill and since the hobby shop went out of business, it wouldn’t do any good anyway. So, if I need anything I would have to order it and I decided to just keep more than what I need on hand. One last thing here, I am more than happy to help you and answer your questions but, I would prefer to do it on your Rolls thread and keep this thread for the Ferrari. Anyone who follows this thread who gets a notification of a new post is more than likely expecting something to see something new on it. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to work on the Ferrari as often as I would like over the last 18 months due to my job. I would also like to take the opportunity now, to let everyone know that, as of this Thursday, I will will be officially retired again. I plan on getting back to the workbench more often and hopefully start making more progress than of late. So, more new stuff to come, stay tuned!!

Dan, Beautiful work! There's so much great detail work everywhere on this car it's hard to know where to start looking first! The overall presence of the car is impressive and it's definitely not something that, you see every day. I also, really like the dash and interior. I think that, it's probably where your eye goes after taking in the overall shape of the car. You are drawn to the details and the dash and cockpit are where they are concentrated without opening things up. Superb work !!!

Brian, A while ago you asked me what tools etc that you should buy. For me, that's a hard hard question to answer so let me just show you what I have in a toolbox and on my workbench and you can pick and choose from there. Also, understand that, these tools were accumulated over a lot of years. I hope it helps.

I don’t know how you can use a slide rule to do what needs to be done. Go to Amazon and search for digital calipers or micrometer. They are about $20-$40 and it will give you measurements in mm, fractions or decimals. This makes it easy to get a measurement on something and then push a button to switch between millimeters, fractions or the decimal equivalent. Also, after my last post, I had a thought regarding you trying to decide what to do. Here’s my thought, even if you decide to just build it OOB, consider this. The single most difficult thing to do on a Pocher classic is to assemble the wire wheels. If you can put six wire wheels together then, you can probably do any extra detail and finish the build. eBay is littered with Pocher kits where guys gave up on the wire wheels. On my Mercedes thread I actually built two complete engines and frames. The second one includes assembly of the wire wheels. I made a little jig to assemble them and there’s probably other threads where others did the same thing. Even though some of the assembly between the Mercedes and Rolls are similar, Codger’s newly reconstructed build thread is the Bible for your Rolls. I can only offer general advice for how I would probably do things.

I understand your concerns regarding just doing an OOB build but, let me impart a little knowledge here. When I started on the Mercedes this, was my exact intent as well. I have always considered myself a decent builder but, no where in the category of a number of builders here on the forum and elsewhere. As I went along and started doing some things, I got a little better at things and just kept at it with a little help, OK, a lot of help, from one Mr. C. We would talk through problems and issues that, sometimes were mutual and sometimes not but, we always came up with workable scenarios. Sometimes it wasn't exactly talking as much as he pushed me to try things. As I went along my confidence grew and I found myself making decisions to make a lot of changes to the body, add a lot of scratch built detail and eventually to light it up. My Mercedes is really the budget model when it comes to Mercedes kits in the Pocher world. I was actually trying to make it look more like the K82 and not my lowly K91. Again, as things progressed I started taking more and more risks with the build. My mantra became "what the heck it's only plastic and paint and if I screw it up, I can fix it and do it again"! Over the course of the 2-3 years it took to complete the build, I was adding MMC parts as I went and the modifications just evolved. I never set out to build the car that, I ended up with. With this F-40, it's kinda the same but, with a bit more planning, not much mind you but a little bit more. I knew that, this transkit was going to be pretty daunting but, after the Mercedes, I knew that I could do it. I just really didn't think that, I was going to try and upgrade and elevate a 2000 plus part transkit because, I wasn't satisfied with some of the parts. For instance, I spent a couple of months and bought a lot of small parts just to improve the turbo hose line fittings because, I didn't like the white metal ones in the transkit. Who does that? I guess someone as stupid as me but, what the heck it's my kit and I'm going to do it the way I want it, no matter how long it takes! Nobody starts out being a scratch building expert, you learn by doing and, yes, failing. If you don't try and stretch yourself here and there on a kit like this when will you? You don't have to try and do everything that, Chas did with his Rolls but, you can do what you are comfortable with and you will get help and support along the way. If you have any questions, all you have to do is ask. Now, start building whatever you are comfortable with!

I agree, your interior came out beautifully! I'm not sure if I'm going to use the red tights that came with the transkit on mine but, just in case, what did you order from Amazon to replace the transkit material with?