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Found 32 results

  1. Harrier T.2/T.4/T.8 Upgrades (for Kinetic) 1:48 Eduard Before Kinetic's relatively new kit of the much missed two-set Harrier trainer, we had a couple of resin conversion sets of varying quality in this scale, so I'm pretty sure the kit has sold very well since release last year (2017). Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (49882) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals; ejection seat details; sidewall details; coaming instrumentation and some canopy internal structure are also supplied. Zoom! Set (FE882) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE883) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles over the pilot and co-pilot's heads that gets them out of there in case of an emergency. Exterior (48945) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades, such as new heat-shields for the aft nozzles, with scrap diagrams showing how they should be fluted with a biro and arranged; an interior surface skin for the air-brake bay; an upgrade to the detail in the bicycle landing gear and the wingtip out-rigger wheels, along with some bay enhancements and replacement bay doors, while others are detailed rather than replaced. New in-scale vortex generators are supplied for the upper wing surface, along with a set of templates that ensure accurate placement, but keep that glue on the frugal side, or you'll have a permanent jig! Lastly, there are pylon mating surface skins for if you're not arming your Harrier. Masks (EX577) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. There are two centre panes to the windscreen, due to there being a choice of parts between variants in the kit. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the out-riggers, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX576) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. There are two centre panes to the windscreen on both sides of the pane, due to there being a choice of parts between variants in the kit. I guess Tface stands for Two Face or something similar? Review sample courtesy of
  2. I've now finished my AZ Spitfire trainer type. It's been built OOB and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I've really enjoyed building It though some of the short run nature of the kit was challenging. I bought it earlier this year from a model shop in the Czech Republic that had the last two for sale in the world or at least on the web. The only alternative would have been the CMR resin version, which is way more expensive and maybe even harder to build! My kit was the Dutch boxing which I chose as I loved the look of how SM250 was restored and converted to look like H99 until Boultbee took it down to Goodwood and put it in wartime markings. Needless to say AZ recently reissued the kit with the same Dutch markings as well as Irish Air Corps and a civilian target option. The kit could also be built as the Tr.8 as the parts are in the kit, though you would need to find the right decals (AZ did do a boxing with three of the Tr.8's civilian colour schemes if you can find it). Anyway here's some views of the completed aircraft. It was built alongside an Airfix PR19. Here's the RFI thread I have AZ's Russian 2-seater to build as well, and a plan to kitbash a Grace type too. For some reason l find the unusual Spitfires like clippies and bubbles more attractive. Cheers Will
  3. My second, or first, build will be a Percival Provost T. Mk.1 [box and frame photos to follow asap] Photos; I'll be doing the RAF version, the top option The decals are rough and have foxing. The roundels will need replacing as they are printed out of register. I hope I can use the badges. I have spare day-glo decal incase its needed
  4. I rather like odd looking Spitfires, such as with clipped wings, so the trainer type is ideal. When one was recently built / restored at Thruxton, some of my daughter's classmates got to sit in it on their primary school aero club visit. As first reflown the plane was in Dutch markings, which look a bit different, though it's now down at Goodwood with WW2 RAF markings. As this kit had been oop for a while I ordered one of the last two apparently available in the world from a model shop in the Czech Republic. Until I worked out the relative price in Koruna (Crowns?) I wasn't sure but even with postage it wasn't too bad - a lot cheaper than the CMR or Brigade conversion options... Now AZ have plans to rerelease the trainer kits this year, but at least I'm ahead of the curve! Basically you get an AZ Spifire 9 kit with an extra fuselage and the second cockpit interior and canopy. So far I've painted and assembled the interiors. It's not Eduard or Airfix, so it's all a bit delicate until the glue cures as everything is butt joints rather than any locating pins etc. Cheers Will
  5. Really enjoyable new-tool kit, needing only minor tweaks. This was a pre-release kit built for the current (November) issue of Airfix Model World, so there were no decals included; I used Xtradecals 72250 instead.
  6. Hello! So my obsession of Alpha Jets has become quite large. I've got 3 in progress, alongside this (click here) which was one of the first models I'd done in a very long time. This time I decided to do a 'normal' military scheme of Portugal (as I'm working on an Asas de Portugal one too). The build was very simple, as is the norm of an Alpha Jet kit. I think the final look is pretty nice and I'm quite happy with the result - perhaps with the exception of the canopy but I guess I can fix that at a later date. So here's just some nice shots. Please note I didn't have enough decals for the left hand side, so there is one missing. Bar the Portuguese specific markings the decals were also were pretty old and fell apart - but I'll sort that at some point. And here's a shot from a model show it went to.
  7. Morning all, I picked up this little gem of a kit for just over £4 from my LMS, and what a great purchase it was! The quality of the tooling itself is rather terrible- raised panel lines, no cockpit detail apart from some basic seats, poor wing-fuselage join, thick one-piece canopy and minimal level of overall external detail. But its redeeming features are So, I began by first of all cutting and dropping the flaps, positioning the elevator and ailerons and cutting the canopy into two pieces. Secondly modification was the cockpit, now this is quite literally what you get with the kit: (control columns modified slightly) I couldn't let that remain unaltered and so I started to add some detail: (note the compass in each cockpit) One or two coats of paint and gloss varnish later and it was completed: Airfix 1:72 De Havilland Chipmunk T.10 Notes: -Painted with Vallejo "Model Air" -Kit decals with a few from the spares box -Weathered with Vallejo "Moden Wash"- dark grey -Varnished with Alclad aqua gloss Well, that's it- thanks for having a look! Kind regards, Sam
  8. Talking of aircraft ladders...

    Hopefully a quick question... I'm scratch building a pair of aircraft ladders to go with my TF-86F Sabre Trainer like these: http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/tf86f Can anybody tell me if the aircraft ladders for the USAF in the 1950's were painted and if so, what colour? TIA
  9. Hi guys. Here is the beginnings of my first ever WIP. The plan is to build a 1/72 TF-86F, a 2-seater Sabre Trainer using the vacuform conversion kit from Falcon. The conversion recommends using the Heller kit which I will do but I'll be using as little as possible. The HobbyCraft kit will be used for most of it as I want to back-date the kit '6-3' wing to the narrow chord. The etched brass will be thrown into the offices as I want the canopy to be open. Not sure what the pace will be like as I'll be doing it during my lunch hour at work. Comments more than welcome. TIA
  10. Good morning! I picked up this kit from Bruntingthorpe on Sunday along with a 1:48 Airfix Lightning. I will be quite honest- this kit is a mixed blessing: Pros: -Great surface detail -Resin exhaust cans and seats -An Eduard photoetch fret included (this contains the instrument panel, belts and various aerials -A large decal sheet (which was barely used, decals sourced from the spares box for my alternative scheme) -Relatively straightforward to build and paint -Positionable flaps Cons: -Almost nothing in the way of guides to tell you where you should place the various parts (cockpit tub, intake cone and nose gear bay) -Nothing in the way of guide pins for the rudder and elevators -Main wheels with no hole through them (a hole had to be drilled to fit the axle through) -A myriad of ejection pins inside the fuselage, specifically of concern were those in the intake area -Wing-fuselage locating pins did not fit at all and these were subsequently filed down -No option to have open airbrakes!!! What I've done: Well, with a bit of fiddling around I apparently managed to get the intake cone, etc and the cockpit to line up correctly in the fuselage- once that was done I closed it up, added the various surfaces and painted her in Alclad. It's my first time with Alclad! I put down a coat of black Vallejo paint followed by a coat of Alclad gloss coat. I then sprayed on the Alclad, building it up to what it currently is. I didn't need to re-paint the black rudder because that was masked over before I sprayed the Alclad. I then masked and painted the yellow stripes on the wings and rear fuselage, added the IFR probe, small intakes and attached the PE aerials. Kit: Sword Lightning t5 1:72 Paints used: Vallejo model air: black, gold yellow. Alclad II Aluminium Note: Decals used and colour schemes are based off reference pictures but are to some extent fictional Thanks for having a look! Many thanks, Sam
  11. TF-86 Sabre Trainer

    Hi Guys, I've aquired the vacuform kit to build an TF-86. Can anybody supply/ point to images of the cockpit layout or am I going to get away with fitting 2 tubs? TIA Stuart
  12. Dear Fellow Modellers, I intended to participate in this GB with two builds: a Typhoon Mk I.B and a Tempest Mk V. However, life got in the way (too much work, very demanding German classes and tests every month, including a Goethe Zertifikat B1, which I managed to achieve) and I didn't found the time to build them past the first posts. I will build them properly later, as regular WIPs, as these aircraft deserve all the care and attention I can provide. However, to regain some modelling motivation and still finish something for this GB, I decided to build a simple kit, just OOB. The choice fell on Airfix's 1/72 Folland Gnat T.1, which is shown in the following picture: As usual, I started by taking the cockpit parts off the sprues These were glued into sub-assemblies in order to ease painting: Next, I took the fuselage halves and air intake mouths off the sprues: The air intake mouths were glued in place but fit is not the best, especially on the port side: This was followed by the wings: Holes had to be made on the lower wing parts in order to install the external fuel tanks later: The wing parts were glued together: The external fuel tanks were, then, built and the poor fit is readily apparent: A lot of filing and sanding will be needed on these to make them acceptable... The next step was building the main undercarriage parts. These must be installed in the fuselage halves before closing them. Here we can see one of the wheel wells (on the right) and a gear leg already glued to the corresponding wheel well door (on the left): Here are both sides of the landing gear ready for installation in the fuselage: It seemed to me that I wouldn't be able to install the gear legs after closing the fuselage.So, some complicated masking will be needed in order to paint the fuselage with these in place. I managed to break the nose gear leg while taking it off the sprue. As can be seen, this part was defective, as the shaft for installation of the nose wheels is missing: First, I glued the broken part using super-glue: Then I carved a shaft for the nose wheels from a piece of sprue. Here it is between the wheels, together with the remaining nose gear parts: A slot was made in the middle of the shaft, to provide a stronger point of contact with the gear leg: Finally, the shaft and leg were glued together using Tamiya Extra Thin Glue, later reinforced with a drop of super-glue: Here are all the parts, ready for priming: The interior areas and all parts to be painted with metallic paints were, then, primed using Alclad's Grey Primer: The intake inner walls were painted with Alclad's White Aluminium and the main gear wells with Alclad's Dull Aluminium (these according to pictures of real aircraft): These parts complete the inner air intake walls and were also painted with Alclad's White Aluminium: The centres of wheels and all other parts making up the landing gears were painted with Alclad's Dull Aluminium. The exhaust was painted with Alclad's Jet Exhaust: After the paint dried, the air intake parts were masked off: and the end faces (where the turbine face should be) were painted with Alclad's Steel: Finally, these parts were glued in place. They form part of the inner cockpit walls as well. The fit, again, is not very good and some putty had to be applied in order to fill in the joins: This is how the build stands right now. This post covers a week's worth of work, from Easter Sunday night till yesterday (Saturday). Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
  13. Good evening all, I've been following some of the builds on this group build for a month or two and alas last night I decided to enter into it. So, here I am- my first group build! What am I building? Well, during the "black friday" sales the Airfix Gnats were on sale for about £2, so I got 4 of them! I have already completed one (as seen below) as "what-if" British Airways Gnat (Note: NOT PART OF THE GROUP BUILD!) On a more serious note, the relatively recent incident regarding Kevin Whyman and the Gnat Display Team has given me an idea of what to do with the other 3 Gnats: the red and white "striped" gnat and the yellow gnat on either side of my Avro Vulcan (hung from the ceiling) with Whyman's red arrows gnat ahead, nose up and soaring into the heavens. Things that I have noticed about the kit during my BA gnat build and a previous OOB build is that: A. The landing gear legs need to be fully secured before the gear bays are inserted into the fuselage B. The seats need to be painted before they are glued to the "back-walls" of the cockpit C. Pitot probe is sturdy but not invulnerable! D. The underside antennae can be damage easily, so be careful! -It is also worth pointing out that these gnats will be built with the undercarriage retracted so the gear bays aren't a critical feature. Cue the pictures!!!: Picture of the 4 Gnat kits (note the Vulcan mouse-mat, i'm a huge Vulcan fan ) British Airways Gnat (not part of the GB) British Airways Gnat (not part of the GB) The aforementioned Vulcan (done many years ago when I was entering into the hobby, painted with a grey that was too dark ) So, that's it for today! Thanks for stopping by Kind Regards, Sam
  14. Greetings Fellow Modellers! I submit for your perusal a pair of small, so terribly small Gnats . Both models are Airfix's newish Gnat T.1 in 1:72 scale. They represent my return to the hobby, in that on these models I let loose every experiment from which I could learn. I initially wanted to build them OOB, but I ended up using quite a bit of aftermarket stuff: the pitot tubes are Albion Alloy Micro Brass Tubes and the nose wheels are from a nice wheel update set from the Hungarian company SBS. The nose wheels make an improvement over airfix's ones which are a little bit too small. The main wheels are from the kit, and the examples left over from the SBS set will be used later for a hangar diorama. The canopy was cut with a Revell precision saw to enable it to be posed open. The interior of the canopy was lightly detailed with thin plastic card and stretched sprue. For canopy work I mostly used bookbinder's glue, which is a strong PVA type. The windscreen was made flush with the fuselage with the aid of Gunze Mr. Dissovled Putty and then Mr Surfacer 500. Same story for smoothing the side walls of the nose wheel wells. Cockpit and ejection seats were detailed with plastic card of different thicknesses, stretched sprue and very occasionally thin brass wire. Paint was basically Gunze Sangyo Mr Hobby, except Vallejo for detail work and Citadel Runefang Steel for the silver. I had lots of trouble with the H1 gloss white, which I applies much too thickly and as a result wouldn't cure well. Thanks to tips from the Tools&Tips section (thanks DuncanB ) I learned some new skills. First matt white, a coat or two, then one coat of gloss. Works beautifully. Decals were from all over the place: lots of stuff from S&M models' sheet, wing stencils came from the home printer, and the rest was basically scavenged. Please forgive the format of some of the photos, I liked the idea of imitating 1970s film, so I edited the model's images accordingly. gnat2-7 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-9 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-13 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-1 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-3 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-15 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-4 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-5 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-2 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-14 by J Goat, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Jay
  15. Magister + Gina = ?

    I have a Heller Magister taking up shelf space, however I have a big reluctance to build it OOB because it's hardly inspirational as such... Option 1: Patrouille De France 1978, could there be a more colourful scheme? Or a more common combination...(tied perhaps with a Red Arrow Hawk) Option 2: All silver West Germany WS50 19966. Could this be the most boring Heller scheme? So without buying an AM decal sheet what could I come up with? 1. Put it back on the shelf 2. Build but don't paint/decal 3. Spend more money on decals, and blowing apart the idea of cheap + cheerful. 4. Wiff... Which do you think won? ********** Edit: Just found an old Matchbox G91Y in deep storage so now I have to wonder what a mix-n-match would result in...
  16. Japanese 'Trainer' Orange

    As I have 3 Japanese trainers in the stash I may as well tackle one as a practice run once I return to the fold properly. However I will need the correct paint (or near enough as I can make it factory fresh or faded). Emptying boxes I found I have Revell #30 but am unsure about it's suitability. Is it passable or is there a Humbrol or Tamiya option as ideally I don't want to get into mixing %s or special ordering (preferably available in Antics) I know the it's been discussed before as I've read similar requests at least once, but as usual Murphy's law says if I want a specific thread I won't be able to find it... Even delving elsewhere on the webosphere simply brings up mixes, technical specs etc as opposed to a simple 'use paint X' .... Thx in advance. - or alternative schemes for a Dinah trainer is another option (the Willow is much easier!)
  17. Good morning all! When going to my local model shop the other day to add to my newly acquired taste (not literally-tasting paint wouldn't be very good for your health ) of Vallejo paints, I stumbled across this kit. In regards to the paints it is a major turning point for me, I have been used to the Humbrol Enamel paints since I first began modelling about 10 years ago and since my "revival" in the hobby about 3 years ago and I have found that the Vallejo paints are less resilient but provide a better coating I believe in terms of the aesthetic appearance. In addition to this, they can be dilluted with water (saving a lot of money on thinners and being better for my general health too). Anyway the kit, it was about £5 I seem to recall which is not bad at all for a newly tooled kit and dare I say, what a pleasure it was to build too! I did make a bit of a mess of it in places and I suppose it was more of an experiment piece to test different techniques and different finishes (my first time using the vallejo silver and the fluorescent red), but nevertheless I believe this is not too bad a model-if I do say so myself. So, without further rambling, here we are: Thanks for looking, Sam
  18. Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-29UB Fulcrum-B Trainer. Pics thanks to Mike Costello, taken at The Polish Aviation Museum, Cracow. This is an ex Luftwaffe MiG-29UM which were sold to Poland for 1 Euro following German reunification.
  19. Hi all, The Seafire is coming to a close, so this is what's up next. Ok, I was expecting to do a Revell Lanc (Dambuster) and an Airfix 727 next, but as my other half got me the Red Arrow's boxing of the Gnat for Christmas, which was very special considering she can't stand model aircraft, I thought I'd get that up the build list along with the original boxing from the stash. Plan is to make them side-by-side, Tamiya gloss red for the red arrow, and Citadel silver for the high speed silver version. I'm guessing the Red Arrow's version wouldn't have an ejector seat in the back? I'm going to put it in anyway rather than have an empty space ! They'll be OOB with the exception of seatbelts which will either by milliput or Tamiya tape. And this is where we are up to, no dramas so far....: More to follow. Val
  20. T-6 Texan JASDF - PLATZ 1:144

    T-6 Texan JASDF Trainer Aircraft PLATZ 1:144 The North American Aviation T-6 Texan has a long history dating from its inception as the NA-16 in 1935 right up to 1970. Even today there are flying versions in various Warbird associations. The T-6 (in various designations from NA-16, through B1 to T-6 etc.) was originally produced as a basic trainer but over time it was upgraded to an advanced trainer (AT-6 Texan) with improved performance for basic and combat type flying training, plus an added facility for training rear gunners. The T-6 was also supplied to Britain and Commonwealth nations and designated the Harvard (I & II) and was in service during WW2 and for many years postwar. Following the end of hostilities in the Far East/Pacific Theatre, Japan's military facilities were disarmed; their military hardware and infrastructure had been completely dismantled or destroyed, and the nation had resolved itself to follow a pacifist doctrine. The years following the end of WW2 however were very unstable though and the security situation in the Far East was becoming unstable, especially the rise of Communist unrest in Korea, China and the Soviet Union. Japan needed to rebuild her forces for reasons of defence and the government (with agreement from the USA) to re-establish a military force primarily for defence. The new defence force was initially titled the Japanese Defense Force (JDF) but later split into Army (JGSDF), Air (JASDF) and Maritime forces (JMSDF). Japan had a requirement to train new pilots and aircrews for these forces however they were still restricted in being able to produce their own aircraft, therefore 232 trainer aircraft, the T-6 Texan, were supplied to the JASDF by the US and were in service with them from 1954 to 1970. The Kits There are two kits in the box, each with a two canopies depicting early and late versions or even a naval SNJ-5/T-6F. Each kit contains a two part fuselage, a single piece main wing, a separate set of engine cylinders and cowling, plus tailplanes, propeller and wheel units etc. The cockpit area is open and clear for the fitting of a small deck containing two seats and rudder pedals that is included in the kit There are no control columns in the kit but these could easily be crafted from fine plastic rod and added. The seats have virtually no extra detail, however at least they are there and could have extra detail applied by any enterprising modeller to enhance the model. The surface details shows recessed panel lines and, on initial checks with diagrams, look to be correctly positioned. There are also two sets of main wheel assemblies and this caters for a wheels-up or down configuration. There is not much else on the sprue to make up the kit except for a small radome piece which would be positioned between the rear of the cockpit and the tail fin, however the kit is sufficiently detailed enough on this tiny model to give the opportunity to build a nice little model of the Texan, or even a Harvard. The instruction leaflet consists of two A4 portrait sheets; one with information, in Japanese and English; the other with pictorial view assembly details. With a model of this small size; length is approx. 2.3in (60mm) there is not much explanation needed to assemble the kit. There are two canopies with each kit, so four canopies in each box, which allows for a combination of either: 2 T-6 Texans, 2 x SNJ-5/T-6F or 1 x T-6 and 1 x SNJ-5/T-6F. Initial views of the sprue holding the canopies shows the attachment points impede about 0.5mm into the clear part of each canopy. This will require sanding and polishing back to recover the transparency of the glass. It's not much but worth mentioning. The last but, for some modellers, not least is the inclusion of stand for those who wish to depict the model in flight mode. This is a two piece construction as was standard in kits produced in the 1960s and 70s Decals This decal sheet is only 3inch (80mm) square however it contains at least 74 (I lost count then!) individual decals. There are 18 pairs of hinomaru (red circle) national insignia; 2 sets of nicely detailed walkways and anti-glare patches, plus a whole host of side letters, serial numbers and colourful emblems etc. Care needs to be taken when selecting which written decals are used as, being in Japanese, there could be confusion as to which force, Air or Navy aircraft, they should be applied to. With so many hinomaru and markings available it is helpful that Platz has provided some good placement guides. The first is an A3 size sheet, on the reverse of the instruction sheets, and shows placements for 6 different aircraft, one of which is repeated with markings for a later period in its airframe life. The other reference is a colour display that has been printed on the base of the box containing the kits. This shows two aircraft, a yellow T-6G of the JASDF and a white SNJ-5 of the JMSDF. It is important whilst applying the decals to differentiate the Japanese texts for the JASDF (航 空 自衛 隊 ) and JMSDF (海上自衛 隊) and a little time spent using one of the on-line translation apps could pay dividends - and avoid an embarrassing mix up of incorrect writings on the sides! Conclusion These little kits can be built as either the air force or naval version for the Japanese Self Defense Force; or even Harvards (with decals sourced from aftermarket or the spares box) and should look good in any 1:144 modeller's collection. The look of the sprue suggest that it is from a short-run mould; which possibly means that there won't be a massive production of these. They should be of interest to anyone who builds and collects trainer aircraft in 1:144 scale. Review sample courtesy of
  21. Revell Saab JAS-39C is released now. But the test builders already have a double seat trainer variant JAS-39D: http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=90083&p=1680379&hilit=gripen#p1680396 JAS-39D cockpit: http://modelforum.cz/download/file.php?id=1036328 When will be released?
  22. It spent 74 years beneath the surface of freshwater Lake Muskoka in the middle of Ontario, Canada, about a 2.5 hour drive from Toronto. The Nomad's tail was raised yesterday (October 28, 2014) but it was originally found in July of 2010 after an approximately 3 year search. (http://www.thestar.com/news/gta/2011/07/24/71_years_later_missing_plane_found.html ) Associated articles from today's news: http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/2014/10/28/downed_second_world_war_plane_recovered_from_lake_muskoka.html and background information from the RCAF website from September of 2013: http://www.rcaf-arc.forces.gc.ca/en/news-template-standard.page?doc=the-northrop-a-17-nomad-3521/hlouaj92 It may not be as thrilling as finding a Halifax but I believe this is another good find and it allowed the airmen to "come home" after 70 long years. Cheers, Dave
  23. Only one more build till my dozen and I can stop bothering everyone with my counting. Modelling time was getting short after my IDF Spitfire, so I decided to bang out a no-nonsense, OOB build of a shake and bake kit with no added extras that I could do as quickly as possible. The new mold Airfix Vampire seemed to fit the bill. In this case, although spread out over two weeks, time expended could certainly fill a long weekend for me. The only thing to slow me down (related to modelling), was the application of the Humbrol acrylic 205 Fluorescent orange, which had to be spayed on in multiple very thin coats. Done as a reasonably clean bird, and here she is, with a friend in the last picture which is my Build 2 from last year, the Airfix Gnat. You've seen billions of these things on here, so maybe for my build 12, I'll find something a bit more esoteric, and in 1/72nd scale of course. Like my old eyes aren't complaining or anything. So check her out.. go ho hum, and move on to something more interesting. Like beer. Vampire_111014_01 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_02 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_03 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_07 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_06 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_04 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr Vampire_111014_09 by IrritableRabbit, on Flickr
  24. Here's a few pics of my completed Vampire; brush-painted and finished by hand...I'm quite pleased with how it has turned out. It's only my 4th build. I will take a few more photos of the Vampire tomorrow:
  25. 21st Kokusho A6M2-K Zero Fighter Trainer 1:48 Hasegawa History Whilst the Japanese Zero naval fighter is known the world over, it’s not so well known that there was a 2 seat trainer variant. The A6M2-K was designed and built at the 21st Naval Depot at Sasebo Naval Arsenal and was also built at the Hitachi plant in Chiba. The design was based on either a standard Model 21 or Model 22 A6M Zero. The conversion required the front cockpit be moved forward, and the new cockpit for the instructor to be fitted behind. This included a full instrument panel, and full dual controls. The instructor had a full sliding canopy, but the students cockpit was open with only small doors either side to aid accessibility easier. Two strakes were fitted either side of the rear fuselage to assist in spin recovery. The type served as a transitional trainer from the beginning of 1944 and were also utilised as target tugs trailing streamer type targets from pods beneath the outer wings. The A6M2-K used a larger fixed tailwheel than the standard aircraft and also had the outer gear doors removed to save weight. The Model Originally released in 2011this kit is still fairly new so naturally the moulding is very good. The finesse on the details such as rivets and panel lines is very nice indeed. There is no sign of flash and only a few moulding pips, plus no sign of imperfections on the review example. The instructions are well printed, clear and easy to read. Rather unusually the kit comes with two complete fuselages. The first is a single seater, and shares the sprue with the standard engine, cowling and propellers, whilst the second is the twin seater and subject of this build along with the interior required to build the trainer version. In fact you will end up with a lot of parts for the spares box once the kit has been built. The build begins with the assembly of the two pilot figures, each with separate torso, (with head attached), legs and arms. Next up is the cockpit or cockpits in this case. The single piece floor is fitted with a bulkhead, seat, seat supports, rudder pedals, joystick and instrument panel for each pilot. On the trainees’ instrument panel the gunsight and upper machine gun breeches are attached. As is usual with this type of kit from Hasegawa the sidewalls are separate and go to form a cockpit tub when joined to the bulkheads and floor. Before fitting the port sidewall though, two consoles need to be fitted, one for each cockpit. The completed cockpit assembly is then fitted to one half of the fuselage along with the tail wheel bulkhead and single piece tail wheel/oleo. The fuselage is then closed up and the upper forward decking attached and fitted with the machine gun barrels, whilst the rear decking is attached aft of the rear cockpit. The Sakae engine consists of engine mount, the two cylinder banks and the crankcase with connecting rods. When assembled it is fitted the fuselage and covered with the single piece cowling. The engine exhausts are then attached as are the horizontal tailplanes. There are optional tail cones, the normal solid type and an open tubular affair, which looks like it should be part of an anti-spin chute arrangement. The two upper wing sections are glued to the lower single piece item before the aileron trim tab panel lines are filled and sanded as per the instructions. A number of location holes in the lower wing also need filling and the trim tab actuating rods need to be removed. The completed wing is then fitted to the fuselage, followed by the lower engine fairing, with oil cooler, the cockpit role over bars and anti-spin strakes. The separate navigation light lenses are also fitted at this point, as are the aileron control horns. The main undercarriage consists of single piece wheels/tyres, oleo and outer bay doors, which can be left off as these were often removed to save weight. The undercarriage is then fitted into position and the outer doors attached, again these can be left off if required. The target streaming units, which look like rocket launchers in reverse, are made up of the two halves of the tube and capped off either end. They are fitted to the pylon, which is complete with separate sway braces and attached to the outer wings. With the model now standing on its undercarriage the pilots can be fitted and the four piece canopy arrangement attached. It is possible to pose the rear cockpits canopy open and the aerial mast is fitted to the fixed centre section. Lastly, the three individual propeller blades are assembled to the back plate, the spinner is then added and the completed propeller is fitted to the aircraft. Other than painting and decaling, the build is complete. Decals The decals from the latest batch of Japanese aircraft kits from Hasegawa have been pretty good, and it’s no different with this kit. Well printed, with thin carrier film, they are in good register and nicely opaque. Only the walkways on both wings and the identification numbers have any significant visible film, but on a nice glossy finish this shouldn’t silver too much. There are three aircraft for which markings are provided. All are from the Tsukuba Flying Group and both are in the distinctive and very colourful orange and black scheme, and are aircraft numbers 401. 407 and 415. Conclusion This is certainly an oddity I hadn’t heard of before receiving the kit and researching for the review. It will look great amongst a collection of Japanese aircraft, and in such a bright scheme it will certainly stand out. This will make a nice mojo lifter or weekend kit to while the hours away, and should turn out to be a fun build. Highly recommended Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for