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pheonix

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Everything posted by pheonix

  1. Wildcatfish

    I too have never heard of this type (amazing what gems GB's reveal!). Looking forward to seeing this one progress. P
  2. Dornier Do 18-D

    Not having a Dremmel I sometimes envy those who do as I sit sanding away with coarse and then finer grades of glasspaper! The new shapes look very good - much more like the real thing. I do not envy you having to sand down all those actuator ports on the wing though.....(see you cant use the Dremmel all of the time!) P
  3. I generally make small models because I only live in a small house and do not have the space to display large ones. Stevehed introduced me to the DFW R1 in his scratch build a couple of years ago, and last year I discovered the Siemens-Schuchert Werke Rs I while looking through photos on the net. I discovered the subject of this build at the same time and knew immediately that I wanted to give one a try. Fortunately the internet has made access to information on these early types much easier than it used to be: in addition there is a Windsock DataFile (no 136) which also contains information and drawings, although the drawings for the machine that I wish to model are at 1/144 scale so I have had to enlarge them to the correct scale ie 1/72. My intention with this build, as it is with all of my builds, is to demonstrate what can be done by an average modeller with simple tools and a minimum of expensive equipment, and limited skill but some patience! I hope to shape and scrape my way to something that will resemble this: http://1000aircraftphotos.com/Contributions/SavinCristian/8377L.jpg My apologies for not providing a photo but I am not sure about copyright restrictions and I do not wish to bring problems to the site by using pictures without prior permission. Incidentally the figure in the bottom right of this photo in the Homburg hat is C. Dornier. I write "resemble the above" because the picture shows the Rs II in its final form with the engines in cowlings and a simple tail unit. I intend to model the machine with the engines in cowlings but with an earlier version of the tail which looked something like this: http://flyingmachines.ru/Images7/Putnam/German_Giants/62-1.jpg This shows the first version of the machine with three engines buried in the hull driving the propellors by shafts: this method was found to be unsatisfactory so the hull was redesigned and four engines mounted above the hull as shown in the first photo above. Both photos show the machine on a turntable at the old Zeppelin shed at Seemoos, Lindau on Lake Constance. The second photo was taken in May 1916, the first photo in November 1916, so the changes were made very quickly. I intend to make a small diorama based on the turntable and slipway in front of the shed at Seemoos as shown in the photos so that I can display what will be for me an outsized model. However I am sure that I will not have time to complete the diorama: I will focus on the aircraft for this GB and provide a build log for the base in the appropriate section of this site later. Claudius Dornier started the design of his first large flying boat in August 1914 because the Imperial German Navy wanted to know what the British Grand Fleet was doing: in particular the Germans wanted to keep an eye on Scapa Flow which was the Grand Fleet's principal base. His Rs I design was a huge biplane with a wingspan of 43.5m: it was constructed from steel alloy using airship construction practices. (Dornier was working for Zeppelin at this time). This machine was one of the first all-metal aircraft to be built and flown, when most aircraft were made from wood and linen, and held together with lots of wire, but it was wrecked in a storm on Lake Constance on 21 December 1915. Dornier's second design was very different from the first and incorporated features which were to characterise subsequent flying boats from this team. They included a very broad hull and a low aspect ratio main plane which was mounted parasol fashion high above the hull. Although the first version had engines in the hull these were quickly moved to above the hull, and drove push and pull propellors. Small stub wings were added to the rear of the hull: on later designs these became full sponsons. The tail unit was mounted on booms which were left uncovered to avoid damage from spray when taxiing. The early booms were made from lattice girders but these were quickly replaced by stronger large diameter steel tube and the central fin was replaced by a pair of fins and rudders. The elevator was of biplane form. In the final version the tail boom, rudders and elevator were simplified even more and it only remained for the design team to change the boom to a single fuselage mounted above the wing for the basic shape of the classic Dornier flying boats of the inter-war and wartime periods to emerge. Here is my kit for the build: it is not quite complete as I am sure that I will require additional items as I go along: This includes basswood for the hull, plastic sheet of various thicknesses, assorted strip, wood for the propellors, brass rod for the booms and copper wire for the rigging. I will write the instructions as I go along as usual. Additional materials will be required for the base but that need not distract us here. This will be a large project so I have made a very small start already in the form of laminating pieces of wood for the hull, and plastic for the wings and engine nacelles so that I can start marking out and the scraping and shaping some of the larger parts. These will be the engine nacelles: they are three pieces of 60 thou card and one of 20 thou which have been laminated. [ The hull is going to be made from 2 pieces of 1.3cm x 16.6cm x 6.3cm basswood with a sheet 0.7cm thick between. The wings will be made in two sections from from three sheets of 60 thou card, laminated, shaped and then butt joined, reinforced with metal pins. The wing and hull blocks now look like this: ......which means that I can now spend many happy hours scraping and shaping.........but I can assure all of you that I will be nowhere near completing 20% of the model, or even anything approaching that by the start date in a few days time because I will not have the time to get very much done before then. Thanks for looking. P
  4. That looks as good as the bomb racks. Excellent additional details. P
  5. Thank you Jerzy. I really appreciate positive comments from a modeller with your skills Thanks Pat. The next instalment is below - I hope that you will enjoy this one too. I have to get on with this though as Jamie keeps reminding us of that looming deadline..... That must rank as one of the kindest remarks that I have read so far for this build. I do hope that it will not look like a scratch build when it is complete. Thanks Jamie. I was taught how to use acrylics by Epeeman who also uses a hairy stick and achieves a finish which is as good as any airbrush. I hope that my finishes are better than they used to be when I was using enamels. I have rigged the lower part of the tail boom together with the vertical sections as shown in the photos. Experience has taught me that rigging parts of a model like this is strongly advised as they become much less accessible later when there are large parts such as wings etc to catch on when one is trying to get the tweezers and wire into tiny spaces. I use rolled 40 SWG copper wire: I measure the length needed directly from the model using a pair of dividers. l then cut a piece of wire which is slightly longer than needed and roll it flat with a piece of brass strip on a hardwood base. The wire is offered to the space where it is supposed to fit and by the use of Mk 1 eyeball I estimate how much needs to be trimmed. A second, and if necessary third, attempt is made until the wire is the correct length. A tiny blob of CA is added to the model at both ends where the wire is to be attached and the wire carefully placed in position. The CA usually grabs the wire and holds it firm. Sometimes I will put one end on and then use tweezers or a knife blade to gently ease the other end of the wire into place if it is difficult to get to. By using wire I do not have to drill and fill lots of holes, and in the case of this boom structure which is made from brass, I do not have to drill into metal which would be extremely difficult and time consuming. The results look like this: Whilst I was in rigging mode I decided to complete the elevator so that I could store it where it cannot be damaged. This will be one of the very last parts to be added to the model so I need to keep it safe in the meantime. Just a reminder of size and how much rigging there is on this aeroplane, here again is the Avro biplane with the rigged and painted elevator: remember this will be at the very rear of the flying boat and is a relatively small part of it! I have been thinking hard about how I am going to attach the large V struts under the wings to the hull sides. On the original aircraft they came to a common joint and were attached to the hull side and probably to a large piece of frame inside the hull. I do not think that it will be practical to make the ends of 4 pieces of plastic come together and simultaneously be able to fix them to the hull sides, so I have decided to make two small attachment pieces from 60 thou card, drill holes in them and the hull and attach them with wire and CA. However I needed to make the attachment pieces the correct size: the struts will be made from 120 thou x 30 thou Evergreen strip shaped to aerofiol section, (the original struts were huge as the photos show). So I cut two small pieces of strip and made a tapered joint so that they would come together with a combined width of 60 thou. I could then cut the attachment pieces to fit exactly the strut ends: The hull attachment parts have an angled face which will be glued to the hull side and be reinforced with a piece of wire which I took from a piece of telephone cable. The opposite side will then be angled upwards so that the ends of the struts will fit directly on to it and will form a butt joint. The wing is completely rigid so the V struts should not be carrying any weight. The completed attachment lugs look like this: These have been CA'd to the hull. I have also done some work on the engine nacelles: by the use of a file and glass paper I have shaped them to match the drawings and then I drilled out two slots, one at each end on the top, into which I am going to insert some short pieces of 60 thou rod to represent the cylinder ends. I have called this a retro model for good reasons: I am not intending to add a huge amount of cockpit and engine detail only to cover it all up - this model will resemble some of the early Frog and Airfix models from the 1950's where there were no wheel wells, cockpit openings, or other recesses! I have also resorted to talcum powder and dope as a filler - another 1960's, pre-resin aftermarket solution to a modelling problem! The engine tops will have some detail which will hopefully disguise to all but the most serious onlooker the small liberties that I am taking with this model. The rear engines will be nearly hidden under the wing anyway and all will have radiators mounted above them which will also help to obscure the view! There is some tidying up to do around the edges of the slots but that will be easy to do and when paint is on they should pass muster. Various holes have been drilled in the sides and front and rear which represent various orifices on the originals, but I have no idea why they were there, they are just clearly visible in the photos Thanks for looking. P
  6. I think that those bomb racks look just fine - better in fact than what you get in many kits! P
  7. Excellent job on the tail. That even looks difficult! Brass rod is clearly the material to use there - must remember that for the future. P
  8. Dornier Do 18-D

    This is really coming together well now - good to see the componebts being fixed into place and an aeroplane emerging from the many parts. I really admire your skill and patience with all those brass fittings for the ailerons and flaps - a lot of fiddly work but well worth it. The new flaps will be fine without surface detail - as you write panel lines and other such irregularities on the actual machines were so small as to be invisible at this scale. Looking forward to seeing the wing mounted soon. P
  9. Great and original idea, brilliantly executed. P
  10. Two first class models in the making here Jerzy. I particularly like the Finnish markings - so nice to see these lesser air force machines represented. P
  11. That is truly first class Ian. Very difficult to guess that that is a vacform model. P
  12. Sanger Blackburn Iris

    I agree with Beard - looking very good indeed. The exhaust and louvres are much improved. P
  13. Thanks for a super update Ian. That really is an impressive piece of modelling. Does this mean that you are going to enter a Macchi M5 into this GB too? P
  14. Evening All, Thanks Ian and Jamie for the positive comments. It will be a little while yet Ian before I am ready to dry fit very much - more like assembling each sub-unit as I go along, especially as the engine nacelles are mounted on two sets of struts and the wing on a third! Which reminds me I have still to shape the engine nacelles and put in something resembling engines..... I have fixed the windshield to the hull - that was the part that I moulded and showed earlier. It was metal and I think had the instrument panel mounted behind it - at least that is how I have interpreted it. The IP was a simple piece of card painted in oils to represent wood, (although on the original it may have been duraluminium?), and then some black dots to represent instruments. As this part will barely visible on the completed model that is good enough. The joint between the windshield and hull was filled and sanded and then the whole given a coat of primer, together with the wing and tail surfaces. The brass boom was given a coat of metal primer: I am not sure how acrylics would go on to uncoated brass and I was not prepared to take the risk. Painting and decorating followed. The first was the CDL for which I have used Revell Beige 314. Artwork is not my strong suit and I find it very difficult to mix paint and get consistent shades so I used this straight from the pot. I watered it down and applied numerous coats - I think about 12 in all - I lost count actually. The first two coats looked positively awful but after that things improved a little. For the wings and large surfaces I drew the brush across the surface for one coat and then along for the next, alternating the direction for each coat. The final coat was always from the front to the rear of the part being painted. Then on to the metallic areas which I have represented with Revell Hellgrau 76 again straight form the pot but again watered down and multi-coated as described above. The finish does look a bit uniform but the photographs do not show any variation and any panel lines would be too small to see in this scale anyway. Next came the decoration: I had printed the crosses on my computer so I first cut out the white background squares from white transfer sheet and applied these: This is the top of the wing and shows what I mean - nothing special. After that was dry the crosses were applied, in this case under the wing: The ribs on the underside were cut from 10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip and represent reinforcing strips between the strut location points. I have since painted these grey too as these were metallic and not covered by fabric. The holes where the struts will be eventually fitted can also be seen here. The fin crosses were also applied so that the complete hull assembly now looks like this: After all the excitement of waiting for paint to dry I can now get on with rigging the underside and inside of the boom because I am concerned about access accidentally knocking off parts because I have to invert the model in order to rig these areas. I also need to get on with those engine nacelles..... Thanks for looking. p
  15. AZ Model Morane 'WR'...or is it...?

    You do work quickly! This is beginning to look very interesting indeed. At the pace you are going this will only take a week to finish! P
  16. Dornier Do 18-D

    Lovely pair of propellors there - very elegant method of manufacture too. I always use the simplest possible jigs - they are effective, less likely to go wrong but easy to correct if they do. Modelling does not have to be difficult if we do not want it to be and the results can still be very good - as you have just demonstrated. P
  17. That is a superb piece of modelling to get that engine, fuel tank, and other paraphernalia in such a small space. Small Stuff engines are well described - but they are good. P
  18. You have made a good job of the torpedo recess on the DT 2. The finish on the Ripon looks good too. There is a close similarity with the Shark which I can see now - an interesting family of aircraft. P
  19. That is a super piece of fiddling with the fuel tank and carb mount. Knowing just how tiny all this is, I take my hat off to you for such fine workmanship. P
  20. Aeronavale Dornier 24

    That is a very nicely finished odel I think that the tonal variations that you have on the green there are really good - not easy to achieve. I think too that you are too self-critical (aren't we all?): I have yet to complete a model with which i am totally happy. I would let others make the criticisms and praise, and just sit back and enjoy the praise! I think that this is a very good model in unusual and attractive markings. P
  21. AZ Model Morane 'WR'...or is it...?

    Lovely to see another early type being built. Like Ian and you I too can remove parts that I should not, after having laboriously made them sometimes! That engine really looks the part so if you do not use it on this model it can be used elsewhere. P
  22. Burgess-Dunne Floatplane

    This is really looking terrific Ray, and it is not finished yet! The engine will certainly pass muster - that is as good at is gets short of Small Stuff. Really looking forward to seeing this one completed. P
  23. Excellent tutorial going on here Ian. I will be using this thread when I come to scratch build mine! Those Small Stuff engines are really first class - I have stocked up on a few - something I rarely do these days but scratch building rotary engines is far from easy. P
  24. That is a first class set of rigging Jerzy. Very well done. P
  25. This is going together remarkably quickly. It looks very promising indeed and will be interesting in a different set of markings. p
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