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Putty Animal

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About Putty Animal

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  1. Yeah, I was pretty glad to see that the Fe2's propeller was a fairly uniform colour. It made things a lot easier. Actually, now that you mention paper thicknesses; does anyone know what the real-world thicknesses of wood were that were used in the laminations?
  2. Hi Marklo, thanks for the tip! That has some real potential for 1/144, especially when doing some of the German props. I'll definitely be keeping that in mind, as I'm contemplating what would make a good adversary to the Fee.
  3. Thanks chaps! That’s really helpful. It sounds like the 0.05mm is the way to go then. I was contemplating stringing two parallel pieces of wire together and running a soldering iron down their lengths to make streamlined wires, but perhaps it won’t be necessary.
  4. Oh, I wish we could just skip ahead to that part! I bought some rolls of nickel silver vaping wire off ebay.uk from a place called the Crazy Wire Company. I was able to get 0.05, 0.07 and 0.10mm wire which should cover all my 1/144 needs for a lifetime. My biggest question is, how wide and how thick were those actual rigging wires anyway? If anyone has ever measured some real life control cables and streamlined raf wires I would be very keen to know! Today I was able to mask and spray the roundels under the wings. I'm not super happy with them, but they will do. The starboard one on A857 was unusual inasmuch as it did not have the white circle. I swear I didn't forget... If anybody knows a source of 4.2mm capital B's in white, do let me know!
  5. I've been thinking about that over the last week or two. I tend to find that the process of making allows us to get to know a given subject more intimately than one might do from a pile of books and monographs on a shelf, or an internet browser full of favourites. As an object in our hands we experience the thing differently and have a greater empathy for the subject compared to the written word or the third-person photographic view. The Vilbebeest is looking superb too. You've already left its vacform origins well behind. Looking forward to seeing more!
  6. The dear old Fee is beginning to look more like itself now. A fellow 1/144 modeller over at http://www.kampfgruppe144.com/phpBB3/index.php (check it out) very kindly sent me the cockades from a Valom kit which fitted the sides of the nacelle perfectly. I also applied the B1 codes for A857 which were taken from an MYK set for the F1M2 Pete. The letter B was a fraction wide, so I carefully cut a tiny section out of the centre and put the pieces back together. I also had some time to wrestle the fuel tank into the pilot's cockpit. For a while there I didn't think it was going to fit. After that the engine-bearers got a coat of paint and the Beardmore was cemented into place. Some of the side detail was added too, although there's still more to go on the other side. However it's starting to look pleasingly busy. Next up I'll probably look at the windscreen and the underwing markings.
  7. Hi Steve, I'll do my best. I must admit I didn't take any shots while in progress , so I've prepared a sort of "reenactment" below with the first blade I did which was a bit NQR. I've edited the last set of images in photoshop to show how the cuts were made and the pieces assembled. Hopefully it makes sense! The first bit is get the numbers. I scanned my drawings at 1200 dpi and scaled them in photoshop to 1/144 scale. Working by eye against a paper print out is no good. Certainly not at this scale. working from the prop tip you can use the ruler tool to measure the distance to the widest part of the blade and to the edge of the propeller hub. 4.3 and 8.7mm in this instance. Using the edge of your calipers and a fresh scalpel blade, score these lines into a length of styrene strip and give them a rub so they show up visibly on the surface. In practice I'd square the end off properly before doing this, but you get the idea Next up, start nibbling away at the top of the blade with a fresh scalpel to get the right shape for the pointed tip. Working from the tip inwards ensures there is plenty of material to work with and something to hang onto. Then start doing the same for the inside taper. Keep the prop blade attached to the strip as long as possible. When the frontal shape is correct, start whittling down the aerofoil shape of the blade. Working from the hub to the tip works best at this stage. Scalpels, files and scrapers are all very useful for this. Flip the blade over and do the back at the same time to avoid taking too much off one face. Once you've got the blade shaped right, stick it securely to a piece of sprue that represents the hub. If you need to you can fair it in with putty. I find that putty straight from the tube is not very good. It's best to thin it down and float it on with a brush to get good contours that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. I prefer Tamiya white putty over other brands. If you want to get a really strong bond, you can thin the putty down with liquid glue before applying it. Once you get going you can quite quickly end up with four of these: Now just to be clear... what you want for this are four individual blades on four individual propeller hubs. The shots below are edited to try and recreate the process. Get two of the prop/hubs and cut their hubs in half like so And stick them together, making sure each one is facing the right way up. If its a two-blade prop you want, you're pretty much done. However if it is a four-blade, get a good sharp scalpel and use the tip to cut a vee into one side of the hub. There should still be enough strength in the joint that you can do this without splitting it. Get prop blade number three and cut its hub to fit. I made my vees fairly loose to give some wriggle room and used gap filling superglue to take up the slack. Once the three blades are assembled do the same with the fourth and that's pretty much it. The pics aren't too well edited, but you get the idea. Finish up with a good coat of primer and a sand with fine wet n dry paper. Thinned down putty can be used to touch up any areas that need it. Cheers! PA
  8. Aw man, if I had a dollar for every giant match comment! Okay, my little jam fancies. Here we go again... So, earlier in the week I made this cute little Boulton Paul 4-blade propeller out of styrene strip and painted it with oils. Then I put it in a box and tried not to even think about touching it for a few days. After an expectant (impatient) wait, I was able to get a coat of clear gloss on the propeller this morning. I let it dry for a bit then gave it a light sand with some ultra fine emery paper to remove the slight hairiness of the oils. The gloss was a bit overscale, so it got a second coat of Mr Color 182 Flat Clear which is always more of a satin when applied thinly. The hub is a disk of silver painted decal, with a sliver of sprue in the centre and dabs of artist oils for the bolt heads. I bought some Mr Metal Color 219 Brass to do the metal sheaths on the prop tips, but I'm uncertain now if the aircraft I'm trying to represent had them. I'll leave it for now and see if any other info turns up. I also did some more work on the nacelle, picking out some of the fasteners by dipping the end of an appropriately-sized piece of sprue into some oil paint and touching it to the model. Also adding filler caps and whatnot. The little arched plate below the pilot's cockpit was also made from a disk of painted decal. I suspect the plate formed part of a mount for a swivel gun for the pilot, as there was a small wedge shaped bracket that stuck out at the bottom of it. I tried to add this several times but couldn't apply a small enough quantity of glue that didn't dry out before I positioned the wedge. In the end I managed it though, using some UV-setting glue which I bought a while back from a craft store for around $3. I found I could apply a minute amount and have an unlimited amount of time to position the piece under a desk lamp before wandering outside to give it a couple of seconds of direct sunlight. It worked a treat. Still need to paint the styrene bit, but here is a shot of the parts as they stand today.
  9. Welcome to the forum too! Congratulations on the 109 as well, it looks fantastic. If that is your first effort, I can't wait to see what you come up with next.
  10. This is fantastic! The Seafox has aged very well all things considered. It’s only getting better too. You are doing a brilliant job.
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