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About Flipper

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  1. Next up was fitting the chassis. I was dreading this and was putting it off as I know Revell car chassis are a pig to fit. Well would you believe it, one click and it was in, no fuss, and just a small bit of CA glue at the front. Not the best of pics I just couldn't resist offering up the wheels, well the rear wheels. Almost just almost looks like a finished car. Only a handful of things to do so hopefully it will be finished soon.
  2. Anyway I'm on the homeward stretch with the car. Next up were the kidney grills. These came in the horrid fake chrome which I stripped off. I then primed them in UMP black primer. I then gave them a coat of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black thinned with Mr Hobby Self Levelling Thinners. I then gave them a coat of Zero Paints Chrome. The finish is ok but not brilliant I then gave them a coat of Zero Paints 1K Pre-Mixed Clear Lacquer. Once dried I then blew over them with a coat of Tamiya Clear Blue. Once that was dried I went round them with airbrush cleaner and cotton bud, only leaving the inner part of the kidney grill blue. Hopefully this makes them look like the grills in the real car. Also shown are the finished headlamps which I totally forgot to take pics of. And then attached to the car. Next up I attached the door cards to the doors. The doors will probably be the last item I put on the car. Next up is the door mirrors. Normally the top half is black. I decided to add some carbon fibre decals. I then clear coated them. I thought they looked good, well that lasted for a whole 5 mins. I thought they were dry and pressed way too heavily on one and smudged it. Arghhh. I'll strip it back tomorrow and redo it. Then probably the smallest item I've carbon decalled, the roof antenna, and yep that's a cocktail stick, Don't look to closely, as you'll see the weave is the wrong way, doh. Aw well it makes it a bit different, as I ain't doing that again. That's it for this part, so again thanks for all your comments and thanks for looking
  3. I then I've put the interior into the car. For some reason Revell want you to put the dash in first then the rest interior. In the end I just couldn't get the dashboard to sit right. So out it came and was attached to the rest of the interior tub. Next up was the side skirts, I just lined them up and they fitted fine. That's it for the moment, I'm just 1k clear coating a couple of bits. Almost there now. Again thanks for looking folks
  4. Next up I put the Audi to one side and concentrated on the i8. First was the rear hatch and rear quarter glass. The rear hatch is made up of a frame which slips into a grove in the shell and the glass itself. Now me being me forgot to take a pic of the frame. The glass has a black border which needs to be masked off. Here's the side window and rear hatch glass masked up ready for painting. When painting car glass I find it's always a good idea to lay some masking tape on the other side to stop any overspray. And all painted up. I used Tamiya Semi Gloss Black for this. I then left it to fully dry then attached it to the frame using watered down PVA glue. The side glass was then fitted in. Honestly it is there I then laid in the rear hatch. This just sits in place with the roof lining holding it in place. That's it for the moment next up the roof lining and the boot.
  5. Cheers Mike, with the i8 kit, Revell certainly took a step backwards then.
  6. Cheers Shaun that's the look I'm trying to get, a road legal GT racer
  7. Hi there folks, I'm now fed up waiting on my kit for the car so I thought how hard can it be. Mmmmm. First up the front splitter. Out came the 0.75mm plasticard and I marked out the outline of the front of the car. I then smoothed it up. Yeh that's what I was looking for. I'll fashion up some struts to mount splitter to the front valance. The splitter will then be decalled in carbon fibre. Next up was the rear of the car. On the chassis at the rear I felt that it was lacking something. So out came the plasticard to add some bits to it. I haven't a clue what they are called, but I think they look alright. The rear valance will be carbon fibred as well. Next up was the rear spoiler. I had a JDM spec spoiler kit. Again I think it looks alright, a bit OTT but hey. Right that's enough of the Audi for a day or two as I need to finish the i8.
  8. Next up I thought I'd offer up some of the wheel options, hopefully the car will sit this low. The first one is my son's favourite. It's an Advan 19" 5 spoke. The second one is a Volk Racing 19" 10 Spoke these are in chrome at present but will be painted black or a darker colour. Lastly these 20" multi spoke wheels were offered up. I'm not using these wheels as they are going on a LaFerrari. These are just to give you an idea of the look of a set of 20" BBS wheels I've ordered. Now which ones to use, bearing in mind that it will have a T-Tray rear spoiler, front spoiler and side skirts.
  9. First up is some body work, now the body was straight enough, but had a few sink marks, plus loads of mould lines and other marks. I highlighted these with a Sharpie Black Marker. The rear bumper assembly comes separate for some reason this just required some general sanding. The body imperfections and mould lines were then sanded down using various grades of Sanding Sticks. Then I went over the body with a 600 grit Tamiya Sanding Sponge to key the surface. The Audi Badge has been smoothed but still can be seen on the body (Weird) Next up the rear bumper was glued on. The fitment of the bumper was a breeze compared to the bumper on the i8. That's as much as I'm doing with the body work until the body kit arrives.
  10. Ah Mr Grey I can't keep up with him lol. The paint and metal decals arrived from Hiroboy. The paint from Zero Paints which is a Lamborghini Huracan colour. And the metal decal kit from Hobby Design. . Just a short update although I have been busy with it today getting all the engine and drivetrain bits and bobs sorted out. Considering this kit and the BMW kit are from the same era, this kit has loads more detail. More pics to follow. Cheers for looking.
  11. I picked up for just over £5 on eBay because all that was allegedly wrong was that the box was worn a wee while ago. On closer examination there is more than that wrong with it, but nothing I won't be able to work round. I'll be adding a few bits and pieces to the kit, including an aftermarket bodykit that still to arrive. It will be painted in Lamborghini Blu Caelum hich is a darker blue metallic colour. Anyway here is the kit. The instructions Next up the bodyshell, it's ok but not the best I've ever seen with quite a few sink marks, which will need to be sorted. The Audi 4 Ring Badge will come off as I've ordered a real metal decal kit which will hopefully arrive tomorrow. The decals, not many of them, although I'll be added a few parts that will be carbon fibre decaled with decal sheets from Scale Motorsport. The rest of the sprues, quite a few of the parts are better detailed that the BMW i8 I've just about completed. The chassis which is probably one of the reasons the kit was cheap as its severely warped. It was a lot worse before this pic, I've had it under hot water for a while. Next up I'll take it off the sprue and apply a fair bit more heat to it. Now I didn't plan to use the original wheels and tyres, but on opening up the kit there is no way I'd be using them anyways. The wheels are alright at a push but the tyres are horrible. This is one of the tyres. They can only be mounted one way and this is the outside of the tyre. It looks like one of the other sprues has been wedged heavily against it. So I've my work cut out for me, but hey ho that's what it's all about, if everything in this Hobby was easy it would be boring, well that's what I keep telling myself lol. More to come soon.
  12. Next up I attached the rear panel and the "blades" that come from the roof down to the back of the car. The rear panel attached easy enough with two locating pins. The blades attach quite securely to the roof, but it's quite a flimsy way they fit to the rear deck so hopefully they'll stay on ok. Hope you all like it, it's slowly coming together.
  13. Cheers folks, again your comments are very much appreciated. I've not done much to it as I've been waiting on the clear coat curing. Anyway once it was dry I could have left it the way it was, but there was a couple of dust specks and also I feel that the straight from the AB the clear coat looks kinda toy like. So to dull it down slightly I purchased a new set of micro-mesh clothes and got to work. I worked my way through grades 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000. I then compound polished it with Tamiya Polishing Compounds. I then finished it off with a coat of Zero Paints Pure Carnauba Wax. Here's the roof before I got to work. Shiney but as you can see some dust specks in it. And after I then did the rest of the car in the same way along with all the additional panels that make up the car. Here's the bonnet with the bonnet vent part attached to it. Then it was onto the tail section. I think the tail lights could have turned out better as I used solid red, instead of clear red by mistake. (I wasn't paying attention) I've only to fit the number plate holder then that's this part finished. Well that's it for the moment, hopefully it won't be too long now until I get the rest of it finished. Cheers
  14. I think they've tried it out on all major kit manufacturers, but at the end of the day it's basically suck it and see. You can't obviously straight away lay down a full wet coat on the decals, you'll destroy the decals. What I always do is lay a mist coat down, wait a good 15mins then lay down another mist coat and again wait another 15mins. If the decals are going to react in my opinion they would have by this time. I then lay down a lightish wet coat, leave that a good 10-15 mins before laying down some thicker wet coats. I laid down 3 full wet coats on this car. Maybe a bit over the top but it's the way I like it, One thing is make sure your decals are fully adhered to the surface, and if the decals are conforming to any shape, make sure that they are well down. I didn't do this to one of the decals on my Honda m/c build and the 1k clear coat attacked it slightly. Also I normally leave the decals a good 24hrs to dry off completely before I lay down the clear.
  15. Looking good mate, I've just bought this kit for a future build. I will also be doing it in orange, I think, well that depends on what colour my son chooses and that changes with each passing day. Anyway good luck with the build.