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James B

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About James B

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  • Location
    Christchurch, NZ

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  1. Sorry for the lack of updates. My father came to visit from the UK, and was his first time over here in NZ, so the wife and I took some time off work and took him on a tiki tour around the South Island. A couple of off topic pics I took. (Hope you don't mind me sharing)? Anyway, excuses and distractions done, after getting back from the airport drop off and farewell I got all my stuff back out of the cupboards and tried to figure out where I'd got to. I finished off the last of the panel lines, filled lots of large gaps, and assembled and cleaned the other parts. Next I got an undercoat on so that I could better see what else needed filling and where I'd really mucked up the panel lines. To my surprise the panel lines weren't that bad, and I have gone round and filled some more gaps that weren't as obvious with filler. I had gone a bit off course with some of the scribing and so I have filled those with a small amount of thin super glue. Need to let the filler cure before I can do too much more.
  2. Just caught up with this, and I have to say I'm blown away. Your seat, especially the harness, is magnificent, and the modulation on the green is also fantastic. Just a side note/question concerning the weight you added. It looks like a heck of a lot is needed to stop this sitting on its tail. Did the instructions call for 20gr or 20g? The reason I ask is that I got caught out recently trying to find enough weight, and places to put in the Hawk I built. I too late found out that gr is grains which is a lot lighter than grams (which I'd assumed it meant), and I wonder if you have done the same? 20gr = 1.3g Nevertheless, I'm now pulling up a seat to watch the conclusion of this excellent build, and I thank you for your time sharing it.
  3. Harrier

    Amazing detail.
  4. Wow, this looks incredible so far. Keep the progress and the posts coming please.
  5. Nicely done. Subtle weathering, and a great job on the camo makes for a beautiful walrus.
  6. Really great job. Just the right amount of weathering to reflect the work horse nature of these two. You certainly won me over (well maybe not completely - but that's not a reflection on what you've produced) to liking these new designs.
  7. Coming along really nicely Mike. I found that the google translate app was quite accurate with translations and has the ability to read from a photo taken. Mind you, it seems to be quite open to interpretation, as a few weeks after, a friend of mine took a look through and eventually translated it all and came up with some quite major differences. That said this was in regards to made up vehicle names for the TB2 pod vehicles, so colours might be easier.
  8. Hi, Another small update. I gave given the cockpit a light wash, just to dirty it up a little bit, and add some contrast to the varying surfaces. Not much will be visible, so I didn't want to darken it at all with the wash, so kept it to the recesses as best I could. As you can see from the last photo below, my first attempts at scribing the panel lines were not very neat. I tried using electrical tape stacked on masking, and doing it freehand, but neither worked. This is why there has been a delay in updates. I couldn't carry on like this and needed a solution. Unfortunately, the recycling had been collected a few days prior, so I was unable to raid it for some plastic card substitute, so that's what I needed, plastic card, or demo tape. Last night I managed to get to another small local stationary store and they had this tucked away in a corner for $15nzd. I'm glad I didn't buy any from NZs version of ebay as it turns out, almost all Demo tape is laminated paper, or just paper, and reacts to heat rather than the old embossing way it worked when I was a lad. These are explicitly called embossing tapes, so if anyone is looking for any, that I think is the keyword. Here goes, my first try using the tape as a guide. As with my first attempts, i've lightly sanded the raised panel line so it sits flat, but so there is a slight mark where it used to be. I've then aligned the tape with this line and triple checked it is parallel with the existing raised lines. My neatly scribed panel line, next to the not so good ones. These are on the underside, and I will see how they come out after they have some paint on before deciding whether to fill and redo them. I'm quite please at how the scribed line came out with the tape as a guide. Of the methods I tried it's definitely the best option. It's not perfect by a long shot, but it's a huge improvement over the first few, and so the rest is just practice and understanding how to use the tools. Here is one of the finished tail sections. And that's as far as I got before running out of time. Hopefully, I'll get a bit more time over the weekend to finish the panel lines. Cheers
  9. I'm most of the way through the first season, while I build mine, and in their defense this is actually covered... Brains invariably advises Jeff, either that or Scott arrives early enough in TB1 to advise which vehicles TB2 should bring. That said, there seems to be more often than not a new device or gadget being developed that just happens to be exactly what's required for the emergency that coincidentally happens just after they've finished testing it! Never fails to make me smile, and that's what matters. They're enjoyable to me now for different reasons than when I was a kid. Good harmless fun, with a pinch of casual discrimination that just wouldn't be ok today. I did have a little chuckle at Lady P being scared of the badly designed remote control mouse camera and ruining all the photos of the equipment.
  10. I shall neither confirm or deny any suggestion that this build was what made me buy the Fireflash model. As well as your stunning diorama there is also this one as well: Both are such beautiful renditions of the model, that I just had to have it.
  11. Jeez, that pod is beautiful. I was all ready to post a reply regarding the TB4 model, which you've done a lovely job on, and comment on the small decals and details really making it more like a model of a real vehicle, rather than a model of a model, if that makes sense? Obviously the new TB vehicles were designed to be more realistic than their predecessors, and these models do them justice. Then I saw the finished pod, and, wow, just wow. It's spectacular. The weathering on the door is spot on. I do think it could do with a bit more around the sides though. Is it worth trying to get a water line stain along it too. Not sure how you would achieve it, perhaps someone in the boat/ship section might know? It doesn't need either of these things however, and they might just ruin a spectacular pod.
  12. Excellent, on all accounts! I order a fair bit of stuff from Japan and it usually arrives (in NZ) faster than items I order locally. I ordered something on a Wednesday evening a year or so ago, only for it to arrive on the following Friday morning, less than 48 hours after I ordered it! I couldn't believe it, so I triple checked the tracking info, and the postage labels, and sure enough Japan straight to Christchurch, skipping the usual delays in Auckland. I can't wait to see your TB3 launch bay come together. I might accidentally build Fireflash after this one is finished, and if you still haven't started, I'll have to accidentally take my time finishing Fireflash! That way I'll be able to steal all your excellent ideas, and techniques! *Cue evil laugh*
  13. Thanks for the really great advice @Pete in Lincs. I haven't heard of using a steel ruler in that way to clean up mould lines and I'll certainly give it a go on a future build (I've already sanded the seam back now). The one thing I'm enjoying about this hobby is experimenting with new techniques and products, so I'm actually excited to give this a go! I usually scrape with a modelling knife in much the same way, but have recently started using fine grit sand paper instead for larger areas. I think there's definitely a place for both ways of doing it, depending on the underlying surface detail. The knife way works great on small detailed areas as there's a bit more control and ability to get into little recesses. Sand paper seems to be best suited to large flat areas as the risk of losing detail is quite high. It's also difficult to get into corners. Your steel ruler technique will be really interesting for me to see where it fits in all this. What makes the ruler a better device than a knife? Is it just that because there's little risk of slipping and damaging the model or yourself, you can press a bit harder and go a bit quicker? As for the plastic card, it's not something I've ever used. I don't have any lying around to give it a go. With the panel lines running across curves, would the plastic card bend around them easily? How malleable is it? Would you suggest using double sided tape or something similar to help hold it in place?
  14. Thanks @HOUSTON, but a long way from done yet.
  15. The two halves of the main fuselage are together, and my goodness are there some gaps. A lot of filler and sanding later and we have the below. Needs some more filler and some more sanding, and then finishing off with a finer grade sandpaper along the seams. While the filler dried I also made a start on the cockpit and just after taking these pics had a go with my new Tamiya scribing tool. Things have not gone well, as I wasn't able to source any dymo plastic tape locally. They seem to have moved more into thermal printing tape instead, which is frustrating. I tried stacking masking tape, but it was just too soft and frayed at the edges. Please do chip in with your thoughts, suggestions, tips and advice, as well as anything else relevant you like. I'm still very much a newbie, and have gained a lot of knowledge from build threads like this. My hope is that in the future, someone will come across this and find it a good source for building these kits. However, I have very little useful advice to give, and so that's where the rest of you come in (Plus selfishly, it'll help me! )
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