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About OneEighthBit

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  1. Hey, I'm the guy that did the original Master III -> MkII Glider Tug conversion that got it's photos borked. Only real difference between the MkII and MkII GT is the cropped rudder, internally strengthened stern post and the installation of the "Type 4" towing attachment. The specific Mods that cover the towing gear are 450, 617, 623 and 647. Rear cockpit was as standard and the tow release lever was added to the front cockpit on the port side next to the pilots seat. Tug could release the tow rope via the handle after the glider had released itself from it's end. I don't know what scale you're working on but let me know if you need any specific stuff.
  2. Thanks for the tip. I actually have one of those stirrers that I use quite a bit but I guess I left these too long and it doesn't seem to get the paint going enough to lift the sludge. I get the feeling this is something to chalk up to experience and I need to do "maintenance" and give the bottles a scheduled shake once in a while.
  3. Ah good point. I didn't have much luck finding loose ball bearings but found a box of 4.5mm zinc coated air gun BBs which seem to have done the trick. I've only added it to a few paints so far and will have to keep an eye on it. Initial results seems reasonable - I gave the goop at the bottom of the bottles a good stir to loosen it and then put a couple of BBs in the bottle and shook the life out of it. The normal colours appear to have re-mixed well but some of the metallics not so much. Not sure if it's to do with the pigments they use. I may just stick with a single BB in each as I guess two hitting each other when I shake it might wear off the zinc coating and allow them to rust quicker. Currently thinking about making a 3D printed bottle shaker to save my poor arms
  4. Thanks for the tips everyone. It's mostly the little dropper bottles I have so I think a couple of M5 nuts might do the trick. I'll give the bottom a good stir first. I was more worried that there might have been some sort of chemical separation and they wouldn't re-mix into paint so to say. But I'll give this a shot, do a couple of test sprays and see how it turns out and report back.
  5. About 3 years ago I picked up modelling again and over time started investing in Valejo Model air paints and products as I found they work best for me. Unfortunately an unplanned house move has meant they had to go into storage for about 18 months. I've been able to dig my stash out I can see that they've all settled. I've given them a vigorous shake by hand and some seem to have re-mixed but others have the pigment sludge firmly stuck to the bottom of the bottle. I was going to attempt the electric stirrer, maybe try and vibrate-mix them with something but not sure if this is worth it or a lost cause? I'm unemployed at the moment so was hoping to model as a way to pass the time but it now seems I have 50 bottles of ruined paint I'll need to replace. Any tips if this is at all salvageable?
  6. That actually has confused me a bit because I was always led to believe the tail light was red but the G.A.L Hotspur manual actually states that the tail light on the glider should be red.
  7. To add a bit to what Aeronut wrote - Interior of the cockpit was green all over but as noted the fuselage was bare plywood except for the floor and up to two feet up the sides. This was Mod.22A and was a production line modification from April 1942. The reason they only painted the floor and part of the sides was for wear and tear. As gliders were deemed "disposable" there was no reason to waste paint plus the paint itself adds quite a bit of weight to the aircraft. The yellow ditching panels didn't appear until Jul. 1945 (Mod 387) so not applicable to a D-Day Mk.I.
  8. Yeah the tailplane strut and the enlarged canopy is probably the most well know of the Mk.II -> MkIIT/III motifications the rest were mostly internal or equipment based. Those who know the regiments history are probably aware that John Sproule was a well known competition pilot before the war and designed and built a number of gliders himself and worked at Slingsby. When he was enlisted to work at at No.1 GTS Thame everything was still very "experiemental" so he devised and implemented a lot of the modifications to the Hotspur which G.A.L and Slingsby formally ratified into the production design. It was John who discovered the weak tailplane spars and petitioned for them to be fixed but it wasn't until they started falling off that someone did something about it. He also figured out why the hoods kept falling off (screws too short in the hinges) and devised the longer centre skid because the original castering one kept snapping off during ground handling. The modifications he made in Canada were another of John's own designs and tackled the weak tailplane spar. The service modification of adding the tailbrace hadn't arrived yet so his solution was to get deHaviland to scarf a block of wood into the tailplane spar to thicken it and reduce the abrupt changes in cross section which were the primary source of the weakness in the original design. Had he done this in the UK I'm pretty sure it would have become a factory mod and we wouldn't have seen the tailstruts in the MkIIT/III.
  9. If you like scratch building you can always add the box parachutes fitted in the gunners hatch in the rear of the Horsa.
  10. Just adding some extra info from my own research over the years. John Sproule who was based at No.2 Glider Training School at Weston-on-the-Green, UK was asked to be the Chief Flying Instructor at the proposed new Canadian glider school in mid-1942. 22 Hotspur Mk.II's where shipped to Canada from a batch of 600 made by Harris Lebus and arrived in Toronto and stored. Serials were HH418, HH419, HH421, HH425, HH427, HH521, HH551-553, HH557-HH562, HH564, H579, HH580, HH646, HH647, HH654 & HH667. John decided the Hotspurs needed to be modified to suit the local environment. As the local de Haviland works had some capacity while changing from Anson to Mosquito production, he got them to make he changes to his specifications. 20 were modified and 2 were held back for spares. After the modifications were made a few test flights were done behind a Lysander, John was told that the Canadian GTS was abandoned and that the 22 gliders were to be scrapped as there was no capacity to ship them back to the UK. However the US Navy heard about them and asked if the 20 Hotspurs and John could be transferred to the Navy Yard at Phllidephia under the command of reknowned gliding expert, Commander Ralph S. Barnaby. Barnaby was heading up Project George which was experiementing with using television guided gliders packed with explosives as flying bombs to be used again U-Boat pens and other highly defended targets. The XLRN-1 was currently under development and they wanted the Hotspurs as expendable airframes for testing and experiemental work to support the development of the "Glomb". Most of the towing was done behind a PBY Catalina. Project George were also issued with a single Horsa Mk.I from the UK (poss. DP725) I actually have a picture of one of the Canadian Hotspurs in flight with a USN pilot at the controls somewhere. It's nothing special and has just the standard RAF markings and camoflauge. It wasn't modified in anyway apart from some internal strengthening of the spars. And a small humble-brag - I've got one of the original Hotspur AP Manuals that were shipped with the gliders to Toronto dated 4/5/1942.
  11. The grass I used I picked up at my local model shop for a tenner as a pre-made foam sheet. Was quite impressed how it turned out actually. The sky background is actually a piece of 12"x12" scrapbook paper my missus had which just happened to have a cloudscape on it. It was all rather precariously balanced in front of the living room window so nothing glamorous. I agree though - this particular range are more caricatures that egg plans. In fact I think they look better a lot better than the Hasegawa ones.
  12. I think the oven cleaner/dettol works as they contain ammonia? I had problems finding any cleaning products here in Sweden that had any useful ammonia content which is why I went for meths. BTW, don't make my mistake - I googled "paint removal models" and found tips to use brake fluid/ammonia. That's for *metal* models. Using that on plastic just melts it.
  13. I had the same problem bootneck and had the same thought. I was actually pondering making a small mask to limit the foil to contacting the area where the decal is. The other thought I had is how important the temperature is. You want *just* enough to fuse the foil to the toner but not the decal sheet. I know you can affect the fuser temperature in a laser printer by changing the paper type in the print properties. If that's not practical and you don't have a temperature controlled laminator, maybe putting another sheet of paper over the foil and using an iron would give some degree of heat control.
  14. I can only speak from experience but soaking them in methylated spirits (t-röd here in Sweden) in a zip-lock bag for half and hour the some gently scrubbing with a scrubbing sponge did it for me. Seemed that friction helped lift the paint more than anything. Two notes. 1) It does make the plastic go a little bit more flexible but doesn't seem to warp or melt it and washing it off thorough seems to make it return to normal. 2) Don't soak your hands in meths. It dries them out and breaks down fatty tissue. Even getting a little bit on my hands left them dried and chapped for a week.
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