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Vlad

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About Vlad

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  1. I'm currently working on a different project also using the colours B5 and B6, I don't have access to primary sources but I've tried to guesstimate based on what I have. At the moment I'm looking at using Xtracrylix XA1125 "Intermediate Blue" for B5 and XA1026 "Azure Blue" for B6. I don't know how much that helps the OP, but what do you guys think of those as approximations?
  2. I hope it's OK for me to post this here, it seems I'm not allowed to post in the "Reviews" section but I wanted to share this for those who are interested. Anyway, I recently bought some very nice 3D printed turrets in 1/700 for a few RN subjects from Micro-Master (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/micro-master). Pictures an more details here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=85&t=164867
  3. Thank you. I don't plan to branch out into another brand of paint but the FS numbers were very useful. Seems Xtracrylix 1005 Extra Dark Sea Grey is close to Humbrol 112. Humbrol's own Ocean Grey, Dark Sea Grey and Extra Dark Sea Grey to me look too neutral grey but from pictures online the Xtracrylix versions of those colours look like they have a nice blue tint, which is whay I'm looking for (and what I used to achieve with those dull dark blues I listed). The general theme here is I'm looking for medium and dark grey-blues where Humbrol seem to only have neutral greys or straight up strong blues.
  4. Yes, another Humbrol Acrylics question from me. When I was still using enamels, I came very close to finalising a complete (personal, approximate) colour match chart for Humbrol colours to the various kind of things I work on. Unfortunately, switching to acrylics has thrown some of this out of the window because Humbrol don't have equivalents for all their enamels. Do we know if Hornby are actively working on expanding the range to fill existing gaps and any timescales on this? Alternatively, I've bought some Xtracrylics from Hannants and am generally impressed with how they paint on and turn out. I'd be happy to use these to fill gaps, if someone can help me with matches? Xtracrylics don't seem to have a full colour chart and it's hard to guess shade by name. Off the top of my head, some of the key Humbrol enamels that I can't find in Acrylic (and therefore need a substitute for) are: 77 Navy Blue 112 Field Blue 133 Brown 144 Intermediate Blue 145 Medium Grey Thanks!
  5. It does seem that the synthetic "detail" brushes behave better and are easier to clean of acrylic gunk without destroying the bristles. Yet to try any of the soaking techniques because the brushes I was using when I posted were too far gone and the new ones aren't bad enough yet, but thanks for all the tips! I have a good repertoire at my disposal now when I need it and I feel much more comfortable with my paint choice
  6. I use Humbrol Evoco which are not really luxury brushes but are claimed to be natural. I also have a set of their Detail brushes (the ones with the fat orange handle). They are synthetic but I've been treating them with extra care because as the name implies I need them fine. However, usually I only dip the tip a little for fine work and they're easier to keep clean than the Evoco that I use for longer periods and bigger surfaces. Next time I need new brushes I'll buy Coloro and/or the flat synthetic ones. Thanks! If the oven cleaner doesn't do it I'll look for some brush cleaner, acrylic doesn't seem too aggressive though so I'm hoping it will clean easily. Will probably try after my current project.
  7. Alright, I'll give it a try to "revive" some of my brushes. Seems both your solutions don't involve added hassle during actual painting which is a big plus.
  8. Aha, I've used oven cleaner as paint stripper before (Mr. Muscle here but should be equivalent), that seems like a reasonable idea. So do you use water for the immediate post-paint wash? Do you not stop to rinse during painting and how long are your painting sessions? For the alcohol, did you also mean using that as a cleaner only after finishing or also during?
  9. I recently switched from Enamels to Acrylics and I've stuck with Humbrol as they are readily available and I have a catalog of personal colour matches. Anyway, overall I'm impressed with their coverage and general behavior with a brush (I only brush paint). I also re-discovered the joy in painting without the chore of solvent based cleaning or the nuisance of drying times. However, my brushes are suffering. I try my best to rinse them every couple of minutes while painting but even so they very rapidly become clogged at where the bristles go into the metal bit. I end up with splayed bristles and even after a thorough wash at the end (all using water BTW) the whole brush clumps and feels stiff. I'm close to accepting that the brush will just have to be another project consumable but I thought I would ask for tips first.
  10. Interestingly, I found a few tins of 128 of the old Chinese batch at my local shop and bought one for testing. The paint was very badly separated but after a lot of scraping the bottom and mixing I got it to a usable state. The colour has a much more noticeable blue hue than the new UK batches, and it comes out closer to Matt, which I don't mind. To me it seems worth the effort to overcome the paint quality issues to get the colour I actually expect. Also you mentioned Ocean Grey. I used Humbrol 106 on a Spitfire and it looks mostly fine but is also a neutral grey, not a hint of blue that even RAF Ocean Grey should have, never mind USN one. I actually use Humbrol 144 for USN 5-O.
  11. Thank you very much! That to me demonstrates two things. Firstly how light conditions can make a world of difference (the scan makes everything look blue, the lower picture makes half the colours look green, or it's just my screen). Secondly, 5H is much darker than a lot of people seem to use on their models (I keep seeing USN ship models in Measure 22 looking like they have blue hulls and white superstructure). I'll probably go and do what you've done, give my tin of 128 a good stir and see how it comes out on a bit of cardboard.
  12. Not at all, and actually that's a good suggestion that I didn't really think about, mind clouded with complaining about Humbrol obviously. Do you have some pictures of how Colourcoats 5-L and 5-H turn out painted on? What else would you recommend for a slightly blue-ish grey?
  13. Thank you! I am aware my matching methods are unorthodox but at least as far as USN colours are concerned the slight blue tint is important.
  14. Yes, they seem to be modern USAF colours. I do have fairly yellow-orange lighting in the room which I assume makes them look more grey, while more "natural" whiter light presumably brings out the blue more? Oddly enough, some of the older Chinese batches come out more noticeably and consistently blue irrespective of lighting (although they also dry Matt instead of Satin). Maybe I need a better lamp! I'm not looking for perfect absolute matches. What I've done over time is built up a "library" of Humbrol paints (as I said, easily available to me) that best match as many different real life colours as possible (to minimise my own paint stock) not just in an absolute sense but relative to each-other (e.g. the contrast they create in camouflage schemes). Humbrol 127 and 128 are amongst the most versatile to me, here are my current uses: Humbrol 127: - USN - 5-L Light Grey - RN - AP507C - also late WWI ships - KM - Hellgrau 50 (RAL 7001) - also WWI ship upperworks - Luftwaffe - RLM 76 (mid/late-war faded variant) Humbrol 128: - USN - 5-H Haze Grey - also possibly post-war/modern Haze Grey - KM - Dunkelgrau 51 (RAL 7000) - also WWI ship hulls - possibly testing it for a mid-WWI RN colour (e.g. ships at Jutland) I brought up the issue with the amount of blue tint in them specifically because at the moment I'm using 127 and 128 for WWII USN 5-L and 5-H respectively, which despite their names (light/haze grey) have a blue-ish tone to them. I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that the range of USN WWII camouflage colours from 5-P to 5-N used the same tinting paste just in different proportions. This is the main application where having a batch that comes out neutral grey spoils the finish for me, since it's often juxtaposed with more "true" blues like 5-O and 5-N.
  15. I agree but despite their numerous issues they are still the best paints for a brush user like myself (once you work out the thinning quirks of each tin) and are the only paints I can walk into a local shop and buy (planning simple paint use around online orders is a big hassle especially with the new Royal Mail rules). I've thought of switching and read reviews of other brands but every time there's something that puts me off. EDIT: I was talking about enamels but do the acrylics have the same quality issues? Review are mixed as to how well they brush on, any experience?