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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

larchiefeng

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About larchiefeng

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  1. Rode hard and put away slightly scorched!
  2. A small bit of progress. I had to take the whole front end apart and you can see the bendy nature of the stabilizer bar Back assembled without the cover for the top control arm ball With the cover on which will get painted black when I start with the touch up paint part of this area I think that I'm about done with most of the assembly here on the front suspension for now and I can now go back to the rear frame area and play with some PE and solder.
  3. Yeah, you're right about the plasticy look and feel. I was going to make one out of brass rod but, the only thing that actually will show are the ends with the bolts. The bowing in the middle is completely hidden and the flexibility actually helps during assembly. I had take the whole front suspension apart today to address the upper control arm balls and get the steering rack and stabilizer bar installed. I decided that while I was at it I might as well do some touch paint work too. I'll post some pictures later.
  4. OK, here's some pictures from the previous post. Apparently, I created the problem myself with Photobucket when I was experimenting with a VPN; that's a whole other story. Anyway, everything is back to normal. I'm not sure where I left off so, I will just post the pictures and pick up the narrative later on. Brass piece replaces the end with the big hole. Replaced Stabilizer bar to be worked on some The specific area to be modified This piece needed to be cut off and drilled out for the bolt and nut Modified part Sort of a before and after of the stabilizer bar; it just looks better and is stronger Both parts now modified Here we have the aforementioned ball and post to be removed circled in red and the results of too much handling circled in green; that's to be repaired after all this gets resolved and I start touch ups. Still catching up from yesterday now. Here is the tie rod connection that has to be removed for the new tie rod ends. The ball and rod are circled in green. Circled in red is the top part of the upper ball that needs to be cut down more for the PE cap to fit on and cover it. Ball and post removed and drilled out Just mocking up here to check the angle of the tie rod to the spindle. I think that the 1/8" long aluminum tube is too long and needs to be shorter or molded section right below the bolt head needs to be rotated and the aluminum tube removed. Either way, I will get it dialed in but, for now I'm just checking the fit. I still have to cut down the upper ball and you can see how much of the axle hub had to be cut off for the new axle on the brake rotor to fit on. The brake rotor is screwed on so none of that will ever show that's why it looks rough. I also did some more mocking up with the body on to check the axle and wheel placement to make sure everything is in the proper position. Looks like it's right where it's supposed to be after all the frame work.
  5. Thanks SB, I'll look into it if this doesn't get resolved soon. I did stumble across a Photobucket blog about the problem and it seems that, it's been going for a few days and a lot of people are pretty unhappy. The only thing that I like about PB is the ability to edit the picture size and upload to the forum. When it's working it's really pretty easy but, lately there have been a lot of problems for a service that, we pay for. The biggest issue that I have with them is the inability to contact them but, I think that this blog is the way to do that.
  6. Yeah, well in the best tradition of "Game of Thrones"; I cut off the balls and post on the tie rod connection on the spindle. After I cut off the balls, the small little post that, was left was going to be extremely difficult to drill a 1.2 mm hole through for the bolt. So, I put the micrometer on the post and it's about 2.3 mm in diameter or 3/32". I have both 3/32" aluminum and brass tubes so, I just cut a couple of 1/8" or 3.5 mm long pieces of tubing to replace the plastic with. Much easier than trying to drill a 1.2 mm hole in a 2.3 mm post! Again, I still can't post any pictures because I can't copy anything in Photobucket yet. I'm pretty much over Photobucket; does anyone have a better idea for uploading pictures to the forum? I will post the pictures as soon as I'm able.
  7. Beautiful paint work and you have done a great job of getting the hood panels built fitting well. It just goes to show what a little bit of patience and perseverance can produce! When I see the work that you and many others are doing with scratch building somehow the transkit doesn't seem quite as difficult. But, then I realize that they are not so much different as they are somewhat the same; transforming a stock kit into something more realistic.
  8. Thanks guys! You know me well Chas, I have been going over and over this stuff and as you say, I've even been looking for outside sources to improve on certain things within the transkit. When I see something that, just doesn't look right, I'll look for alternative things to improve on it. Just because this is the highest end transkit ever made for a Pocher F40, it's not perfect. Additionally, after reading other build threads I've seen where there are areas for improvement. I keep going back over the instructions again and again and I find things that I've overlooked or missed. Case in point is spindle and the ball connection points for the upper and lower control arms and the steering rack and tie rod ends. I completely missed that, the balls have to be cut off to connect the new tie rod ends to the spindle. The first picture shows the tie rod end with the big hole for the ball to pop into and the new tie rod end that replaces it circled in red. Well, sort of circled, you get the point. If Photo Bucket was working this where a picture would be. I can't get anything to copy so, that I can post any pictures. I did manage to get the front stabilizer bar rebuilt and the steering rack and new tie rods are done too. So, in lieu of posting any pictures tonight, I will just stop the update here until I can get the pictures to upload. I will continue on with some paint work and more assembly tomorrow and hopefully, I will be able to post tonight's pictures and tomorrow's progress tomorrow. Oh, and, I don't know if this is chapter and verse for other transkit builders but, I appreciate the comment.
  9. Thanks for the input Pascal; after reading your post, I went back and did some more research and discovered that, both sides had the small sliding Lexan windows. Even though I haven't been posting for a few days, I haven't been entirely idle. I cut one set of the Lexan frames out using the PE templates and trying to cut them on clear acetate was just too difficult for me. My perspective kept changing and I couldn't be sure I was on the line so, I thought about it for a day or so. After a while I came up with a very simple idea of, just covering the acetate with low tack tape and drawing the outline on the tape and cut it out that way. So what we have is the result of that exercise here. The layout I thought when I first saw the templates, how cool, the side window frames are PE. Then, that idea went out the window by finding out that, there are sliding windows on both sides. There is only one set of templates so, it was time to cut them out of the acetate! OK, two sets cut out I checked them on the side window glass and made the mistake of drilling some holes in the window before realizing that, the holes were too big for the tiny watchmaker screws. My next conundrum was which, frame went on the inside and which one on the outside of the slider. Back to the reference pictures The inside one is slightly wider and has the half round hand cut out so, it's the inside one. Now, I have to cut out two more side windows and the two sliders before I assemble them. That was really not a big deal and it's way down the road as far as assembly goes but, it was something that, I needed to get out of the way for the doors. Before I do anymore work on the doors and body and paint work, I needed to ascertain that, I could get the windows done. The doors can keep the roll up windows and would require no modification to the inner door skin or the trim panel or be done with the Lexan type windows. Lots of things have to be thought about way ahead of time if you are going to make it work. I also did, get the front suspension attached and it is a bit rough. I need to go back and touch up some paint and fix some of the brake rotor screws that got loose and a little out of shape. There's a lot more that has to happen here on the front end so, I'm going to wait a while before I touch up anything simply because of all the handling I'm going to have to do with it. So, no sense in doing that more than once. Right side attached: A little look with the body mocked up to check spindle placement after all of the mods Slightly different angle Both sides are on now and I added the front tub to check clearances on the radiator The radiator slipped out of the frame braces so it looks a little crooked here. I also have some new PE screen mesh and I'm going to correct the front section of the radiator that is inset too far. I'm just going to make a piece and insert it in the opening to extend it out a little farther. It probably won't ever be seen but, it's one one of those things that, I know was a mistake. Left side of the front end. There are some PE pieces that cap off the cut ball on the top of the spindle that will finish off the look. It's hard to see here but, there's also a re-worked front stabilizer bar and steering rack that has to go in here to finish the front suspension. There's the radiator fans, hoses etc that will fill up the front space as well. The whole front tub gets carbon fiber decals and brake master cylinders and bottles up here as well but, it's a good start so far.
  10. I think that when you get the LED's and see the wire, you will probably not have any problem with getting it in the 1/32" space. The pre-wired pico LED's have a very thin wire. I'm pretty sure that the wire is 32 gauge or smaller. I have a roll of 30 gauge wire and it's smaller than that. What I found was the easiest way to strip the wire for soldering was to just use a sanding stick to remove the lacquer coating. It's a motor winding wire. The only thing that might add any thickness to it is that, the two wires are twisted together but you can always take the twist out. I would use two thin strips of metal imbedded in the walls as buss bars and bring the shorter wire runs to the buss bars. That way it keeps the fiddly wires to a minimum. Maybe drill some tiny holes in the bars as connecting points to run the wire through with a small twist and a dab of solder to hold fast. Simplifying the wire management is going to be something that you should give the most thought to given the number of lights that you want to have.
  11. I'm working on the drivers side window now which, is the only one that has the sliding section. I think that I've found the use for the micro watch screws on the window frame. We'll see how it goes since, it looks like I'll be inside for the next three days or so. We're expecting snow through Monday night; go figure!
  12. That, Mr. C is a good idea and,if I decide to go with the PE piece I might do something along those lines. But, Rich and I were talking this morning and he told me that, he had done a search on the 1:1 F40 doors and it seems the the PE door part is for the LM version and not the regular road version of the F40 with roll up windows. This is kind of interesting because, as Pascal pointed out, a while back, this transkit does not contain any racing version upgrades for the engine, body or interior. If it was intended strictly as an upgrade for the road car version what, are the racing version PE door panels doing in the transkit? I'm getting a bit of a mixed message here with regards to the intent of the transkit. The plastic that, is provided for the stationary door windows is some very thin 0.010" clear acetate to be used with PE and inserted into the kit window frames. I think before I make any decisions regarding the type of door panels that, I'm going to go with, I'm going to make a couple of the stationary windows first. This will kind of push the doors to the back of the line as far as body work goes for a while. Nothing is easy with this! Lol
  13. Thanks guys. I spent a bit of time sanding down all the Bondo from the inner sections of the body to try and get as smooth of a surface as possible. Mostly this, is for the decals to lay down smooth and not have the ejector pin marks show through. I know that on the 1:1 car the inside surfaces aren't perfect but, there's definitely not ejector pin marks so, that is the main reason to spend this much time getting it right. I think that, just because of how difficult it is to get at things on the under side, I've spent way more time on the inside of the body than the exterior which, is kind of funny when you think about it. I can't think of any other model that, I've concentrated so much on under side of a body. So, here we have the parts after sanding down the Bondo. Now, I had to get a coat of primer down to see what still needs to be fixed. For the most part they came out pretty good. Any ejector pin marks still showing are going to be covered up by other body pieces so, there was no need to deal with them. Here's some close up shots to show some of the areas, circled in red that, I need to patch with some more Bondo. The doors are quite a bit trickier because of the interior door panel modifications that have to be made. I concentrated on cleaning up the opening that will show when the carbon fiber decal is applied to the inside of the outer door. As you can see, the doors didn't come out quite as clean as the larger panels. I'm looking at the components of the door and trying to figure out just how much actually needs to be removed to get the look of the 1:1 car. First of all the main door trim panel opening needs to be opened up more to match the PE piece. See the outline of the PE piece showing what should be opened up. Then there's the horizontal vents in the PE panel. looking at those when laid over the door with just the hinge in place, it's pretty apparent that, they really can't be cut open with the big door hinge there. So, if that part can't be opened, why remove the entire window frame marked in red as the instructions show? There's got to be another way, even if it's doing some more scratch building on the inner part of the door by just cutting out the section outlined in black and building a frame around the opening. I think that, this is what I'm going to do first and see what happens; I can always cut the whole thing off later if it doesn't work. Just too much fun here but, at least it's keeping me occupied while the shock parts drying out for the front suspension. By being able to move around from the front suspension to the rear suspension and body it allows me to keep working while other things are setting up and I'm thinking about it.
  14. Thanks guys. I have to admit that, I'm kind of missing what you are referring to Pascal. The only thing that, I can see different is that, the upper control arm brackets are angled in on mine versus the drawing showing them more straight out and upright. Perhaps if you could circle the area so, I can see what you are referring to. Also, everything on my frame is just mocked up other than the brass being soldered to the brass "A" frames. Nothing else is permanent because, I'm still working my way through all the other builds using their pictures as reference. I did take a break from this the last couple of days and started going through every step that, has anything to do with body panels. I ground down the high spots where there will be carbon fiber decals, paint or other things that will show. Here's what I spent most of the day doing on the inside of all the body panels. Ejector pin marks smoothed out some and taken back to bare metal. In addition to the decals, some of the parts have white metal pieces added like the side vents on the rocker panels and the front bonnet. Nothing like my trusty Bondo to fill in the gaps and grind marks. Here's an example of an add on white metal piece on the bonnet. I have already painted the other side of the part so, when I paint the whole part it, will already have a color coat inside . The spray gun that, I'll be using has a much larger spray pattern and trying to get paint inside that opening would only result in runs and uneven coverage trying to get paint in there. As Pascal mentioned the doors are somewhat tricky in the way the transkit instructions want you to remove most of the mounting screws for the inner door panel and window frame. I haven't removed all of them yet and I'm going to explore a different method for doing them. As with everything, once you remove it you can't really put it back the same way so, before I go down that road, I'm going to make sure I can't do it a different way. Here's the PE piece to be added and you can see a lot would have to be removed to open up the pocket and add the horizontal vents. I'm already taking into account that the lock mechanism might not be working, by drilling a 3mm hole in the bottom of the doors and in the rocker panel sill for small magnets to be inserted, in order to hold the doors closed. Tomorrow will be spent working on making sure all of the insides of the body panels are prepped for the decals and paint. The first thing that, I would be painting the body color is, the insides so, I'll spend whatever time that I need to in order to get them right. I just like taking a break from one part of the car and working on another. Everything still moves forward but, it seems like I'm getting farther along this way.
  15. As far as the tire lettering goes, does it fit with the story and the owner of the bike? This is really the only question to be asked.