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larchiefeng

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About larchiefeng

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  1. I made some progress today and actually attached the PE to the frame today. I still have to make the rods for all of the cross braces out of brass tubing and bolt them into the brackets. However, all of the brackets are attached with the exception of the lower control arm brackets. After the tubing is done then it will be time for some primer. These brackets could be glued down but, because they will get the rods, I left them slightly loose on the nuts and bolts to be able to turn them as needed when fitting the rods. All these frame sections are angled and don't really line up straight ahead. The "A" sections glued in place. Motor mounts and rear sections covered with brass. Angle brackets with holes added and at the bottom of the "A" frame there is a stainless steel piece that goes on the outside of the frame with holes to drill and mount the lower control arm brackets. Pretty much all of the PE attached to the frame. There are bolts and more finish PE plates that will go on after the frame is painted black. I still need to repair the WM main cross member which, I'll do when I make all the other brass rods. Once all the rods go in and it gets some paint the rear suspension starts getting built.
  2. It wouldn't surprise me if it was glass filled nylon. It does have a feeling of nylon plastic about it. Tonight, I took a couple of steps back on getting the brackets on the frame. My screw up totally; when I tried to connect the white metal cross brace and then re-position the two lower braces I wound up melting the white metal lower rods when I tried to solder the brass back on the "A" frame. The rear frame is finished and ready for the PE Started with getting the rear cross member attached to re-position the lower brackets. You can see that with the lower brackets mounted in what is supposed to be the correct locations they don't line up. Red circle on the right shows how much lower the arm extends than the left one circled in green/ Here I've attached the upper section and you can see the ends circled in red that melted off; total brain fart! A close up of the melted end still bolted in the bracket, oops! This bracket was moved down and reattached but, melted the end off. I have some thoughts on how to fix this and I will see which one will work the best. I'm going to remove a few of the brass brackets and clean up the solder and then try and solder them back on more cleanly. I'm going to have to use brass rod in place of the lower white metal rods so, I guess I'll just have scratch build new rods. I expect that in the long run they will probably fit better. At this point it's just better to remove everything and start over. One other thing that, I discovered when using the bolts to attach things to the WM and brass is that, the holes in all these parts are too small for the bolts. I had to drill out all the parts for the bolts to fit. This would have been good to know before bending and soldering them. So, the tip here is if there are any brass PE parts that will require bolts to go through them, be sure and drill out the holes prior to even cutting them off the PE sheet; you'll save a lot of time and aggravation.
  3. Thanks Darin, you're definitely right about being left to your own devices. I make a lot of notes and try and write down my own sequence of operation based on what I've read in the instructions and reference materials from other builds that have been documented on other websites and forums. My own observations from looking at everything give me what I feel is a logical progression to build and I write it into my notes. Of course things change frequently but, I at least feel like I have a good plan each time I sit down to work on it. At the moment, I'm done cleaning up the frame and I can move forward with attaching the various pieces of PE. Tonight I discovered that two small braces didn't line up with the main white metal cross brace holes. So, I'm going to have to make some corrections on their locations before I glue the two largest PE pieces to the shock towers. I'm thinking that if I bolt the WM part to the top of each piece then I can unsolder the two lower brackets and then bolt the other end of the WM piece to them and then just solder them back on and the location will be exactly where they should be. Just an example of figuring things out as you go along. Hopefully, I will have some decent progress pictures tomorrow or the next day.
  4. I feel your pain, it took me about six months to finally get the perfect black enamel paint job on my Pocher F40. The biggest problem was dust and runs in the paint from getting over eager when spraying. And, because the body is die cast metal, every so often I accidentally banged it on something and got a chip in the paint. Lots of sanding and spraying and sanding over and over again. In the end I managed the perfect black paint job and I wound up clear coating it for just that little extra layer of protection. I used a lot of varying grits of wet/dry sandpaper and sanded in or under running water. In the bucket of water I added a little dish soap to ease the friction. I never removed all the paint and started over again, I just color sanded and when was smooth I painted again. When I finally moved inside for the winter and used the spray booth I turned it on about an hour before I started painting to draw in any dust particles in the air within the vicinity of the booth and then I tried not to stir anything up before painting. Oh and because I was using spray cans I would put them in hot water from the tap for about 5-10 minutes before spraying. I managed to get a great flow of paint from the can and virtually no dust in the paint. After painting I shut the booth off and covered the entire opening of the booth until the paint was pretty much set up. Painting large pieces like this is a lot of trial and error. I'm glad that you're back on this build, it's really a great departure from the cars and planes and an interesting subject.
  5. Thanks Rich. Yeah, there's a lot going on the frame and with the whole transkit in general. You really have to be thinking about what else has to be done when you are doing something. Because the instructions tend to jump around some, you almost have to review every page as you are doing one to see if there's something else that needs modification five or ten steps later. And does that, needs to be thought about or done now. It's not exactly a Tamiya kit. My biggest problem is, I can't sit down and work on it every day and I have to go back over things each time I sit down to make sure I'm not missing something that's why I keep a note pad next to the reference material.
  6. Tamiya Ferrari 360

    There's different thicknesses of Mr. Surfacer. The 500 and 1000 are the two I have and I think that the 500 is the thicker of the two
  7. Here's where I left off with the rear frame some months ago with the PE just mocked up on the rear frame. I had already made a number of cuts and removed quite a few molded on plastic cross members in preparation to add the PE. It's been sitting on the bench staring at me for months and it's time to get on with it. The PE has been removed to continue work on the frame and remove the additional sections that, I realized that still needed to be removed. Ready for battle with reference, my list and the parts. Here's the areas that need to be removed. The top circle is an area that needs to cleaned up for the brass PE piece to sit down level. The small circle in the corner shows that, even after cutting out the section before, I still need to clean it up and square up the corners. Before cutting After cutting and again, the small circle shows more clean up required after making this cut. You can only get so close when cutting out these sections and the plastic very thick and heavy. I think that, it's actually ABS and has kind of a nylon texture, definitely not polystyrene plastic. Everywhere I look there's more clean up to be done from the first frame section removal. These Xacto knife blades are really handy for getting into all the angles and removing the excess. As you can see, I have a lot of cleaning up to do before I move on with any PE work. I want all the frame sections to be smooth and square before the PE gets glued on. Almost cleaned up. I still need to turn it every which way and make sure every side of every brace is clean. I know that there's still a few small spots that need to be finished up but, I'm close. Tomorrow, I should be able to start fitting the brass that's already done and more that's in the pan.
  8. BUGATTI T46 "Surprofilée" 1:8

    I'm sure that you have probably already considered this but, I know Codger's RR had threaded rod soldered to the bottom of each running board strip which was then held on with nuts. I'm pretty sure that Dave Cox assisted or fabricated those for him out of brass and then Chas polished them to a flawless finish and sent them out to be chrome plated. It's one way to attached the strips on a flawlessly painted part without the worry of using glue. Just a thought
  9. I finally sat down today and started going over what I've already done to the rear frame and PE. It's always a problem for me to get back to something that I worked on months ago and to try and get familiarized with where I am in the process. This is especially true when you are dealing with a transkit that has as many different parts as this one and the actual instructions leave a lot to be desired. To that end, I had to spend quite a bit of time going through all my references and the instructions. I also had to take a quick inventory of what PE parts that I had already removed from the sheet and identify where they need to go and in what order. I wound up writing my own instructions for myself as to how I need to start and proceed. The first thing that I realized is that I have to remove more of the plastic rear framework. I took a couple of pictures and tomorrow when I actually start working on it and soldering some of the PE brackets together and then gluing them to the framework I'll post them to show the before and after along with progress made. I'm sure that there's going to be quite a few pictures working through this section. It seems like it should go fairly quickly but, you never know. This is where all my reference pictures and most importantly the DVD of the rebuilding of the wrecked F-40 in Germany is crucial in order to make sure of correct placement of all the brackets and gussets. I should probably also have a partially built engine block for correct engine mount bracket placement. Anyway, lots of measuring two and more times before cutting once. More tomorrow.
  10. Oops! Try going to their website and downloading the instructions .pdf. here. I know that Rich should still have his transkit intact but, this will give you most of what you need plus the corresponding key sheet to tell you what each part is. There's eight large PE sheets with some in brass and some in stainless steel; lots of PE!! Just out of curiosity, what are you looking for in the PE? https://shop.autographmodel.com/Autograph-1-8-Transkit-Ferrari-F40-Pocher-based
  11. Pocher Aventador Build (Blue Roadster)

    That looks great! Like you said, it's too bad that it all gets hidden underneath the plenum. I like the the bolts with the washer attached and I think that they might even work on the F40 cam covers. I'll have to measure the molded ones to the measurements on the bag. Keep up the good work!
  12. I've already removed a lot of pieces from most of my PE sheets but I think that there's some scans on the instructions of each sheet. I'll take a look and let you know. Try this link to the instructions: It has everything that's included plus the copies of each PE sheet. file:///D:/Modeling-%20All%20Folders/Car%20Reference%20and%20Pictures%20by%20Car%20Type/a-F40/Autograph%20Instructions/TK08-F400-SSO%20Autogaph%20F40%20SSO%20Bauanleitung%20english.pdf
  13. I managed to shoot another coat of clear on the front bonnet to further seal the side emblems and put a coat of clear on the front emblem. I also have the front lower valance attached now as well. I will continue to get the rest of the body parts another coat of clear one at a time. I am cleaning off the bench and putting everything away that doesn't have to do with the rear frame and suspension. I'm going back to where I left off when I started the summer painting work. The other things like the engine and interior were just small diversions until I could get back to bigger work of the frame and suspension. When I was mocking up the body it became clear that, I need this part done before I can move on to the engine etc. I will also need both the front and rear frames completed to continue to mocking up the rest of the car if it's going to do any good.
  14. So, I was sitting around yesterday and I was looking for some inspiration. I decided to do a quick little mockup in order to see some of the body parts together rather than as individual pieces. Here was my little Christmas present to my self. Today, I did a light color sand on the front bonnet to get rid of a couple of dust specks and while I was at it, I added the Ferrari emblem on the nose. When the decal sets up later today, I'll shoot another clear coat. I'm cleaning off the bench today and deciding on just one sub assembly to concentrate on moving forward. I had too many things started and every time I sat down I didn't know what to work on so, if I put everything away but one then, problem solved.
  15. Thanks guys, I appreciate your kind comments. Big, on the color, I would just go with what you like. You're building it for yourself and you will be the one looking at it so, you might as well be happy with it. When I chose black, I was already wanting to paint it black and I did some research to see if there were ever any from the factory in black. I did it mainly just to satisfy myself that, because it's not red, it's not really a pure F-40. Also, I'm building mine as a quasi LM version so, it's not going to be a strictly stock version anyway. I can really sympathize with you on the opening up of all the vents on the rear end. I had a heck of a time trying to make the cuts without overdoing it. I was also pretty surprised at how hard the metal was to cut and after going through about 30 carbide discs I finally made it.
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