Bertiebob Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Hi guys and gals better late than never Happy new year 🥳 I’ve just recently picked up the urge for kits again after having a wee break from the plastic with my wife not being well and work commitments. So decided to clear a lot of display old stuff away some long chats with my Mrs and decided on doing cars in 1/25 scale etc I’ve mainly done WW2 stuff before tanks aircraft etc bug never really tackled a car watched a few you tube videos and thought I could have a bash at this So I’ve started with a simple AMT Chevy nova 66. i have primed everything in flat black and given a once over with the 1000 grit wet and dry Now it comes to the hard stuff painting spraying etc I don’t really want to go down the line of rattle cans as they stink to high doors even with the spray booth. im asking do any of you know much on zero paints and any good reviews of them the other one was mission models paints again views reviews etc im used to using tamiya, Vallejo, model air, humbrol etc Would appreciate any advice I spray with H and S CR infinity plus kind regards Bertiebob68 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Hi Bertiebob, and to the forums! A great tutorial was posted by Matt @cmatthewbacon here: As to Zero paints - first thing is they also stink! And they need a really good primer coat and applying in light coats as they are a hot automotive paint - apply them too wet, or heavy, and they will craze the plastic. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Indeed, welcome aboard @Bertiebob. If you've got an airbrush setup and booth already, you're well on the way, but... if you want to use Zero paints, you'll need a really good chemical vapour filtering mask/respirator (not just dust protection) as well, and disposable gloves to cover your skin when using them. They give a great finish, but are toxic. On the other hand, water based acrylics, which are fine for tanks and planes, don't tend to make it easy to get a shiny finish, which is "de rigeur" for cars. Zero's paint system makes it easy (too shiny for many people...) but at a price. Tamiya sprays will do it, especially for "period" finishes. Now you also have the option for Tamiya LP paints, which are basically the same paint as in the spray cans, but in a jar without propellant. You can use them with an airbrush without the faff of decanting them, and choose either regular thinner or "retarder" thinner which make it easier to get a super smooth "wet look" finish without polishing. They are more fragile than the Zero finish (which is pretty bulletproof when fully cured after 24 hours). It can be hard to polish Tamiya paint without burning through to the primer or plastic on sharp edges, so you want to avoid it if you can... best, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 I basically agree with all Matt says in his post, but do have to say I've never used 2K clear as I can only spray in the house and I wouldn't want to risk the toxicity of it harming the wife (or cat!). I do have a good spraybooth with external extraction and a 3M respirator but still won't risk it. Instead I've always used zero or similar ready mixed clear, or more recently Mr Hobby clears. My favourite at the moment is actually their Aqueous Premium clear gloss which I thin with Mr Color levelling thinner. This has been giving me the best out of the airbrush shine I've ever had. It does usually still need compounding and polishing but nowhere near as much as the laquer clears I've previously used - but tbh I find polishing out clear coats somewhat therapeutic so quite enjoy it! I also often use 'full size' car spray cans, both directly from the can and decanted through the airbrush - these can be cut and polished without needing clearcoating and can give a really nice finish - and there's a huge range of colours available. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 It is possible to do cars in acrylics. Apart from Halfords primer, this Mazda. was multiple coats of Tamiya acrylic, airbrushed on then rubbed down between each coat. The shine is several coats of Johnson's Klear brushed on, a wide flat is needed. From what I read in the owners club, the paint on this model is probably thicker than on a real MX-5!😂 This Escort is Halfords Primer, then their Appliance White, again rubbing down between coats. Gloss on this was airbrushed Windsor & Newton acrylic gloss. So it can be done without the smellier / more hazardous paints as long as any rattle canning can be done outside or well ventilated. I find the main thing is time, leaving at least 24hrs for a coat to harden before rubbing down or another coat. Cheers Will 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 2 hours ago, malpaso said: It is possible to do cars in acrylics. Indeed, I've also used craft acrylics - the ones that come in those 2 fl ol upright bottles from places like Hobbycraft or the Range. Just sprayed a Tamiya Nissan 350Z in Pebeo pearl violet which has some of the finest metallic flakes I've found. I usually thin them with water and some Johnson's Klear which hardens them up a bit. It's just waiting for a Mr Hobby Aqeous clear coat now. Nice builds Will - very tidy job on that old clunker of an Escort kit! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertiebob Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi guys these models look awesome and I’m really looking to get to grips with more kits. They really are looking great and fantastic paint jobs I’ve received my second kit Christine by AMT in 1/25 with 3 Zero paints but I’m still working on the Nova. ( so she’s staying in the stash with paints ) I have a question if possible to help. I’ve decanted some car paints satin black and mixed 50/50 with anthracite grey to make my own car paint colour which has sprayed fine on a few plastic spoons testing the colour and have now sprayed first coat on the Nova, however I’m using best cleaning as possible ( flash spray helps clean my airbrush but I’m really looking for the best cellulose thinner/ laquer thinner to clean my airbrush and if need to thin the paints but as of yet the paints are thin enough for light coats. Obviously I need to purchase online as COVID has shut all the shops for now so what sort of cleaners do you use when using laquer, car paints etc I use H and S infinity but have few cheaper airbrushes if this is the better way to go using laquer based paints as I know this paint can destroy seals in airbrushes looking for any help here. still trying to work out the pictures to post some progress pics regards Bertiebob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 39 minutes ago, Bertiebob said: so what sort of cleaners do you use when using laquer, car paints etc Personally, Mr Color Levelling thinner - works great for thinning and cleaning. As you're using H&S brushes they should have PTFE seals as standard - I think Infinity has the triple seal system? If not you can upgrade it cheaply and safely use ordinary cellulose thinners to clean the brush (it's safe to do so with even a single PTFE seal in a H&S brush as long as you don't leave it soaking in the stuff). I still flush the brush out with water after cleaning just to be on the safe side! I use a H&S Ultra and Evolution both with triple seal now as I've upgraded the Ultra and have been using Mr color laquer thinner (and cellulose when I have some) for years with no problems (touch wood!) Keith 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertiebob Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Thanks Keith I’ll put this on order tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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