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Found 269 results

  1. Kit - Italeri 1:35 (re-tool). Paint - All acrylics. Decals - Kit & Star Decals Extras - Verlinden & Voyager resin stowage, lead foil, Jordi Rubio turned aluminium barrel. M24 Chaffee 3rd Armd Div Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg February 1945. Started two-and-a-half years ago, then parked on the 'Shelf of Forgetfulness' until about four weeks ago. Kit is the old but still OK'ish' Italeri kit - but the later re-box with the WWII tracks. It went together fairly well, but the suspension arms are surprisingly delicate and don't stand-up well to rough handling and the tracks are waaaayyy too thick and generally un-co-operative, if I ever build another I will definitely be investing in a set of AM tracks. Two 'firsts' on this - First time using MIG's US WWII OD set - but only the base tone and the first lighter one, and first time attempt at the Rinaldi hairspray chipping method. BECAUSE it's my first time using this technique, I'm sincerely asking for feedback, because it's the only way I will get better, right ?. So that's pretty much it, as ever thanks for taking the time and effort to comment or criticize, have the rest of a great weekend, folks. Best from NZ Ian.
  2. I'm having my StuG currently on a pause, so meanwhile I have another build on my workbench, which is a little TKS tankette. The thing is really tiny, only a spec bigger than a matchbox. The kit is from IBG, which is currently the best one on the market over the RPM and Mirage kits. I also have Part aftermarket sets - both exterior and interior one, to add some detail to the vehicle, and ABER Hotchkiss M1914 barrel. It's going together relatively well. I have added great deal of Master Club rivets to the hull though - the front and rear glacis got them wrong and bottom had no rivets at all. And the engine has been completed as well. Kristjan
  3. Hello friends, this time I have a great and well known kit from the Dragon: I wanted to build it from the mid 1990s when I first saw this kit at my friend’s house. It’s a typical Dragon moulding from 1992 with a very good sculpting and perfect artwork from Ronald Volstad. An artwork represents the four infantrymen in their very motley equipment and that’s the main reason why I want to put my hands on it. The painting guide on the back of the box: Actually, I don’t decided yet which paints I’ll choose: Mr.HOBBY or AK Interactive... The sprue with the soldiers and ammunition: Same, the other side: The little sprue with the weapons: And other side of this sprue: The weapons looks fantastic, I haven’t seen more exciting rifles and machine guns in the 1:35th scale. OK, let’s start!
  4. Hi everybody, while fiddling about with the track links of the AT-T artillery tractor I started a parallel project as a relief from frust and slow progress. I chose the Panhard VBL from Tiger Model, a small french reconnaissance vehicle. This is a very nicely detailed kit with a good fit of the parts. There are some ejector pin marks you have to take care of, because they are in places that you will probably see. No big problem at all. I started with the interior of the crew cabin as per instructions. The colors I used are Revell Aquacolor 06 (Anthracite), 09 (Teerschwarz), 65 (bronce green), 46 (NATO-olive) and Gunze H405 olive green. The hoses on both sides of the central panel are drybrushed with Aluminium. That's how far I got: Thanks for looking! Suggestions and critiques are always welcome. Have a nice day Nick
  5. Tamiya's superb T-55A (Czech built), finished with Star Decals for an Afghan Northern Alliance vehicle in 2001. Only extras are the grills which are from the Eduard kit-specific set. Camo is Tamiya Olive Green and RAF Cockpit Green. Weathering is as you would expect - pin washes and dot filters with W & N oils, rust is red/orange/yellow and raw umber oils stippled with Vietnam Earth and Yellow Ochre pigments. Dust finish is Migs' Beach Sand mixed with AK European Dust, applied very sparingly on the hull & turret and thicker around the running gear and tracks. Still need paint and fix the tow cables and yes I know the tracks on the left side are a little 'off' in the photos I've already repaired that ! Thanks for taking the time to look and / or comment. Best from NZ. Ian.
  6. Hi Pals, I finish working with this model. I have seen that it is a fairly simple kit, without major problems for assembly, with very good instructions. The tracks, are the originals, which although vinyl and not the best option, are "Tamiya", which is always a guarantee of quality, and have been very easy to assemble (they are wide and with 4 points of union instead of 2). I have chosen not to overload with extra equipment the vehicle, because it is in question to choose between there is a lot of equipment or lose the painting / detailed work underneath (detail cast, weathering ...). I have improved as much as possible, without complicating myself too much, some details of the kit, such as crystals for the periscopes, and the knobs of the boxes of spare parts, that I had spare in my box of pieces ... Still, I added something extra besides what the kit brings, crates boxes, ammo boxes, backpack, several, and wire roll. Although this is an old kit, modestly I think you could still get a good result, (I am reasonably happy with it), I have chosen to make the Marine version in Vietnam. I thank you all the fellows of the forum who have accompanied me in the assembly process and encouraged me with their comments to improve / continue. I include a link to the WIP section, in case someone is interested in seeing the post. Some shots details... And a bit of information... And I add some photos that I found in Google, very appropriate IHMO I think, of course only for information and with all rights for its legitimate authors. This is in the assault of Hue ... Thx to all for watch and comment, cheers mates
  7. Hello all, This is my version of Mini-Art's T-60. Pretty much built out of the box (just added the ignition wires). Resin figure is from Evolution Miniatures. there is definitely something about is winter whitewash camouflage, when I start on one of those I can't stop weathering.
  8. Hello, It's my first post here, so be gantle with critisism This is my fourth serious model. I know that not everything is perfect, but for me is good. I try some new techniques. Hope you like it, of course I'm waitng for advices to make next model better
  9. Tamiya's still superb wee Universal Carrier: Built pretty much from the box with just some 'tarps' and an Italeri 'Boys' rifle from the stash. Markings are from Star-Decal (35-C-1148) - which are a quite thick in my opinion - for a vehicle from the 19th Bt. 2nd NZ Divn' in late '41 / early '42. Not too much else to say, the 'Caunter' colours are 'home brewed' using so many other folks builds as reference and the always (un)reliable Mk.1 eyeball method. Not too shabby for a 43 year old kit... as ever all outrage, questions and comments welcomed. Best from NZ Ian.
  10. Hi, Here are the shots of the finished model. Build log can be found here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235048283-lvt-4-water-buffalo/ And some closeups: Thanks for watching, Kristjan
  11. Hello, My next thread will be StuG III Ausf.B. I have chosen Tamiya kit for this one and since I have few leftovers from Dragon's Panzer III family kits I've built before, I use them wherever I can. I have few Aber upgrade sets also to use and aftermarket decals, as I'm going to one of the StuG Abt. 185 vehicles. I'm not very happy with the Tamiya kit, but there are not many options when building Ausf.B. Bolts are rounded and need to be replaced, weld seams are often missing and need to be reproduced, fit is loose and need a lot of filler. But main problem with this kit is that upper hull, when removing the molded fenders, appears to be 1mm wider than lower hull. I really don't know what to do with that yet. Here is the front driver's plate compared to hull: But Aber's etched sets seems to be awesome and offers a lot of fun. Here's the assembled ammo storage cabinet. And yep, the lid is movable: Tracks are from MasterClub this time and oh are they awesome. Compared to Friuls, these need very little cleaning and go together with little resin pins. Til' next time, Kristjan
  12. Hi everybody, as I promised yesterday I now post my second finished model. It's my only second finished model this year. You can find the build log here: Here she is: Thank you all for looking. Comments and critiques are welcome! Have a nice day Nick
  13. Wow. What a build. The final reveal: The build thread is at: Apologies - it's a bit long, and possibly a bit dull I've really enjoyed this one. The kit is excellent. I replaced the barrel, but that was just personal preference... The King Tiger. What a beast. Coming from from the Panzer IV, it is huge. I stuck with the kit tracks. and found them really good. To ensure that I could see the tracks, I left the side skirts off, and cut down the front mudguards. Tools were fiddly, as always, but loads of great definition from Meng. All good I'm really pleased with how the rear came out. Overall, a really good kit. Hard work (on my part), but worth it. Always learning... for this build: 3-colour hard edge camo is tricky, but doable. I like Panzer Putty Never try to do chipping with a sponge on a gloss coat, Duh A £2 box of artist pencils is better than expensive pigments Never ‘just give it a final coat of Dullcoat’... Just leave it as it is This model is broadly based on a number of photos/drawings, but does not try to ‘be’ a certain example. Comments happily received A bit of a rest now before the Jagdpanther!
  14. This tiny tracked vehicle is quick and fun to do. I spend an afternoon building, painting, and weathering the thing. Nanond
  15. Hi friends Here i want share to you my Academy King Tiger, which i built last year, i hope thats ok with you that i posting also models from my past. It was my first AFV from Academy, before i built always Tamiya, Dragon, Italeri and Revell. But the Academy kit was really a nice kit, even some parts have to many pieces, example the front machine gun holder have 6 pieces, where the Tamiya one have just 3 pieces, but the fitting was really well and it was a joy to build this kit. As you can see i am not a huge fan of tons of mud, maybe thats could be good for a diorama, but if i build my models just for the shelf then i dont make it so much dusty or muddy, coz i want show the model and not the mud. I wanted build a late version, so i paint it in a very light Dunkelgelb, the green is lightening NATO green from Tamiya even the brown too. so here we go Cheers Werner
  16. Soviet 2 ton 6x4 Truck w/76mm USV-BR Gun MiniArt 1:35 The ZIS-6 is a Soviet general purpose 6×4 army cargo truck, a three-axle version of the ZIS-5 two-axle truck. It was built from 1933 until October 1941 at the Moscow Zavod imeni Stalina factory and reached a total production of 21,239. The robust and reliable base was used for many different bodies, for example as a searchlight truck or mobile workshop. But is best known for its role as the first multiple rocket launcher in July 1941. It was built by the "Compressor" Plant's Design Office during World War II (1941–45). Very few ZIS-6 trucks survive till today. The 76-mm divisional gun M1939 (F-22 USV or USV) was a 76.2 mm cannon produced in the Soviet Union. It was adopted for Red Army service in 1939 and used extensively in World War II. The gun was designated as "divisional" - issued to batteries under the direct control of division headquarters. The F-22 USV was an intermediate model, coming between the F-22, which had limited anti-aircraft capability, and the simpler and cheaper ZiS-3, which eventually replaced it in production and service. The Model MiniArt ahs a great habit of combining several kits into one set and this is no exception, the Gaz AAA and Divisional gun have been released separately before, but then they have added several new parts that will make for a great addition to a diorama, this includes ammunition boxes, shells and a couple of figures. The mouldings, particularly for the truck are showing their age in that they are really quite complex and certainly not for the beginner. This is shown more in the running gear and suspension as well as the steering rack parts. That said the parts are still well moulded with no sign of flash or other imperfections, but there are a fair few moulding pips. The gun is of a similar vintage and again the parts are well moulded. I still don’t understand how MiniArt packaging department get all the sprues into the poly bag, I’ll have to video them the next time I’m there. There are seventy five sprues of grey styrene in total, plus one of clear, along with two sheets of etched brass and a small decal sheet. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block, head and sump being glued together followed by the addition of the starter motor, alternator, water pump, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan, cooling pipes, oil filler pipe. The gearbox is then assembled from three parts and glued to the engine assembly, along with intake manifold. The two, chassis rails are fitted with an extra beam where the truck bed will sit. These are held on the rails by three “U” bolts and their associated clamps. The rear leaf springs are then attached via their support links. Four cross members are then used to join the rails together, as well as the rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye spring is attached. There is a three piece box attached to the left hand rail, near the front. The wheels are assembled, and in this, MiniArt have deviated from the norm, by making the inner tyre half made up from four individual rings, while the outer section is made up of three rings. The wheel itself is then sandwiched between the two tyre sections. Whilst this sounds odd, I think it’s to make a realistic tyre with the type of radial tread used at the time. The rear axles and differentials are each made up from fifteen parts, if you include the drive shaft. These assemblies are then fitted to the rear leaf springs, while the front suspension is made up on a single leaf spring assembly mounted laterally and fitted with the front axle, steering rack and support arms. The rear differential is then fitted with a triangular support structure which also supports the brake rods. The front chassis end cap is attached as are the two bumper side arms, while to the rear there is a choice of towing hook styles, one, just a single piece unit, the other is made up from five parts. The spare wheel, mounted under the rear chassis is held in place by a support large clamp. The front and rear brake drums are then attached to the axles, followed by two wheels per side on the rear axle and one per side on the front axle. The engine assembly in then glued into position, followed by the two piece radiator, two piece front bumper and two support brackets on chassis rails. The three piece exhaust is the attached to the right hand side. The two front fenders are each single piece units to which a small hook is attached before being fitted to the chassis, as are two of the lateral truck bed beams. The cab floor is also attached and fitted with the bench seat, gear stick and panel support. The three piece wiper/wiper motor is fitted to the front screen surround, once the clear screen has been fitted. The screen is then fitted with two small arms, these can be glued in either the stowed position for a closed screen, or down, so that the screen can be posed open. The rear of the bonnet section is then glued to the front of the screen support, along with eh two side sections and engine bulkhead which has been detailed with several small parts. Inside the foot pedals are attached lower bulkhead, part of the floor panel fitted earlier, before the front cab assembly is glued into place, along with the steering column and wheel. The three piece rear panel and roof of the cab are then glued into place, as are the two bonnet supports, between the bulkhead and the radiator. Each door is made up from six parts, including clear section, door handles, latches and window winders. The doors are then put to one side. The bonnet halves, split longitudinally are each made from two sections, which can be posed in either the open or closed positions, allowing the modeller to show of the engine should they so choose. The doors are then attached; again, they can be posed open or closed as the modeller wishes. The three piece horn is attached to a rail, which in turn is attached to the front of the vehicle between the fenders. The two, three piece headlights are then fitted, as is the single, two piece wing mirror, on the drivers side. The truck bed is then assembled from five parts, bed, sides, front and rear sections, and glued into place, completing the truck section of the build. The truck bed is made up from the bed itself which is strengthened by four small and two large lateral beams along with three tie hooks per side. The rear large beam forms the backplate of a stowage box, while the two spare wheels are stored just forward of this. The front, side and rear panels are then assembled with their associated latches, with the side panels also being fitted with holders of the snow tracks which are also provided with the kit. With the bed sides attached the six ammunition boxes are assembled, complete with shells, three with armoured piercing and three with high explosive shells. The snow tracks, which wrap around the rear wheels when required, are assembled completely from PE parts, and are assembled from a series of two piece links and two piece connecting rods, there being a total of 90 links. The tracks are split into three sections per side and if not being used around the wheels there are stored on the sides of the truck bed and clamped into place. The completed bed is then attached to the chassis completing the truck build. Ensure you have taken you’re yearly dose of patience and dexterity when building these tracks, because you’re going to need them. Work then begins on the gun and its carriage. The split trails are assembled from two parts and fitted with items such as the cleaning rods, grab handles locking pins, spreading handles, rear mounted spades and towing eye. The central mounting is a complex affair consisting of 29 parts, to this the trail brackets are then attached, wach being made up from three parts and the trail assemblies glued to the brackets. The wheels are assembled in the same way as the truck wheels and fitted to the axles on the mounting. Then its onto the gun, with the slide assembly built up from six parts and the gun from eight. The gun is then slid onto the slide before being fitted with a large PE plate and small mid section splinter shield. The two trunnion mounts are fitted out with a selection of hand wheels, gear housings and sights before being attached to the mounting and the gun to the trunnions, as are the recupertor cylinders. The main splinter shiedl is a single piece item and fitted with a multitude of smaller parts such as site doors, stowage boxes and support bars. This assembly is then fitted to the gun assembly finishing the build, well apart from the option of having the gun in operational or towing position, if in towing configuration there is a locking bar that locks the two trails together. In addition to the truck and gun, the kit also includes a couple of figures, one appears to be pouring water out of a bucket, perhaps into the radiator, the other looks like a driver, but standing on the fender holding onto the steering wheel. Each figure comes in multiple parts such as separate head, hat, legs, arms, lower coat for the bucket holder, and bucket. Unusually there is fair bit of flash on the figures, but nothing that can’t be sorted with a sharp knife or sanding stick. Decals The decal sheet gives the modeller just two options for the truck, and yet there are three options for the gun. The decals are beautifully printed, are clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. The names of the different companies are included, as well as their respective registration plates and insignia. The options are:- Soviet 2T 6x4 Truck of an unidentified unit of the Red Army, presumably during the winter of 1941 – 1942 Soviet 2T 6x4 Truck of an unidentified unit of the Red Army, 1941 – 1944 Divisional gun from an unidentified unit of the Red Army, Western Front, December 1941 Divisional gun from an unidentified unit of the Red Army, Winter 1943 – 1944 Divisional gun from the 889th Artillery regiment, 387th Infantry Division, 2nd Ukrainian Front, May 1945 with the gun shield showing 5 victory marks, denoting 5 destroyed German tanks. Conclusion As most people will know I am a big fan of MiniArt, and not just because the owner and some of the staff have become friends. Their product line continues to grow almost exponentially, both with new releases and products like this one where several separate kits have been brought together to provide the modeller almost a diorama out of the box. The truck and gun are quite complex as mentioned earlier, but they will build into lovely models for any collection. Review sample courtesy of Miniart - Distibuted in the UK By Creative Models
  17. Weird the random thoughts that occur to you and were you are when it happens, right ? - sitting at the traffic lights in-town this lunchtime and realised that in forty-eight years of building plastic models, I have NEVER completed a German WWII vehicle, not once, been pretty close, but never actually finished one. So… time to change that, I think. I bought Tamiya’s Marder IIIM (35255) a couple of weeks ago, and have made myself a promise… this time I’m going to finish what I start. Please stick with me as this could take a while, but this time, this time I’m going ‘all the way’. Ian.
  18. Also on the bench just now is Tamiya's superb 'Easy Eight' Sherman, easily one their very best kits and IMHO right up there with their T55 in terms ease & quality of construction. So not going to linger on the build except to say it was an absolute joy and all done in just three evening sessions. So straight in to some photos of me slapping some paint on it: Tamiya grey primer straight from the rattle-can. Acrylic satin black as a base-coat. Tamiya 'Deck Tan' on the facets that will get the most fading from sunlight & weather. Ammo of Mig dark OD base coat. Ammo of Mig acylics modulation which looks very stark just now but will calm-down a lot as the washes, filters and weathering are added layer-by-layer. As ever thanks for taking the time to look and / or comment, more later in the week hopefully. AFN Ian.
  19. Soviet LAP-7 Rocket Launcher MiniArt 1:35 The GAZ AA 1.5 ton truck was a licenced manufactured version of the Ford AA truck for the Soviet Union, where more than 950,000 were built. There were many body styles, but the most recognisable version was the flat bed truck as depicted in this kit. The difference with this kit though is the fact that the flat bed is fitted with a large frame work fitted with rockets, and big ones at that. The model is contained within a very attractive, bright and colourful box that MiniArt have started using recently. Inside, there are forty four sprues in grey styrene, one of clear a single sheet of etch brass and a small decal sheet. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block, head and sump being glued together followed by the addition of the starter motor, alternator, water pump, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan, cooling pipes, oil filler pipe. The gearbox is then assembled from three parts and glued to the engine assembly, along with intake manifold. The two, chassis rails are fitted with an extra beam where the truck bed will sit. These are held on the rails by three “U” bolts and thir associated clamps. The rear leaf springs are then attached via their support links. Four cross members are then used to join the rails together, as well as the rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye spring is attached. There is a three piece box attached to the left hand rail, near the front. The wheels are assembled, and in this, MiniArt have deviated from the norm, by making the inner tyre half made up from four individual rings, while the outer section is made up of three rings. The wheel itself is then sandwiched between the two tyre sections. Whilst this sounds odd, I think it’s to make a realistic tyre with the type of radial tread used at the time. The rear axle and differential is made up from six parts, if you include the drive shaft. This assembly is then fitted to the rear leaf springs, while the front suspension is made up on a single leaf spring assembly mounted laterally and fitted with the front axle, steering rack and support arms. The rear differential is then fitted with a triangular support structure which also supports the brake rods. The front chassis end cap is attached as are the two bumper side arms, while to the rear there is a choice of towing hook styles, one, just a single piece unit, the other is made up from five parts. The spare wheel, mounted under the rear chassis is held in place by a support large clamp. The front and rear brake drums are then attached to the axles, followed by two wheels per side on the rear axle and one per side on the front axle. The engine assembly in then glued into position, followed by the two piece radiator, two piece front bumper and two support brackets on chassis rails. The five piece exhaust is the attached to the right hand side. The two front fenders are each single piece units to which a small hook is attached before being fitted to the chassis, as are two of the lateral truck bed beams. The cab floor is also attached and fitted with the bench seat, gear stick and panel support. The three piece wiper/wiper motor is fitted to the front screen surround, once the clear screen has been fitted. The screen is then fitted with two small arms, these can be glued in either the stowed position for a closed screen, or down, so that the screen can be posed open. The rear of the bonnet section is then glued to the front of the screen support, along with eh two side sections and engine bulkhead which has been detailed with several small parts. Inside the foot pedals are attached lower bulkhead, part of the floor panel fitted earlier, before the front cab assembly is glued into place, along with the steering column and wheel. The three piece rear panel and roof of the cab are then glued into place, as are the two bonnet supports, between the bulkhead and the radiator. Each door is made up from five parts, including clear section, door handles, latches and window winders. The doors are then put to one side. The bonnet halves, split longitudinally are each made from two sections, which can be posed in either the open or closed positions, allowing the modeller to show of the engine should they so choose. The doors are then attached; again, they can be posed open or closed as the modeller wishes. The three piece horn is attached to a rail, which in turn is attached to the front of the vehicle between the fenders. The two, three piece headlights are then fitted, as is the single, two piece wing mirror, on the drivers side. The truck bed is then assembled from five parts, bed, with two cross beams fitted underneath, sides, front and rear sections, and glued into place, completing the truck section of the build. For the rocket launcher frame, there are two large beams that are slightly longer than the bed, the overhang being where the handles used to raise and lower the framework into firing position is attached. There is a smaller plank that runs crossways from this elevation beam, which is also fitted with th hinge points or the rear of the frame. The modeller ahs a choice of building the frame in the firing position or transport position by the use of alternative actuator parts. The raising mechanism is made up from nine parts. The main frame is made up from ten parts while each of the six rocket containers are each made from sixteen parts, while the rockets themselves are each four parts. With the rockets slid into the containers, each assembly is then glued into position on the frame. If the frame is to be modelled in the transport position, the right hand side and rear flaps of the bed are fixed up with the relative catches fitted. In the firing position these flaps are lowered and the catches fitted in the down position. Decals The decal sheet gives the modeller only two options for same truck, one in a summer paint scheme, and one in a winter scheme. The decals are beautifully printed, are clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. Conclusion I just love these trucks from MiniArt, they are so evocative of the period and can be used in so many situations, whether on their own, or in a diorama. The rocket frame gives this normally benign truck a certain menace and goes to show the ingenuity of the Russian forces to get as much use of these types of vehicles as possible. Review sample courtesy of
  20. The dioaram I have been building, and described in this thread is done. Here are a some pictures. The cab is empty. Where has the driver gone? Here he is. Tending to urgent needs! Is the driver drunk? Starring eyes and the helmet askew
  21. Hi, This is a 1:35 model, the IS-2 heavy russian tank. This is an Zvezda KIT no. 3524. I made it as a moving model (the film about how can it ride is at the bottom). Additional parts are the Friulmodel tracks, handmade towing cables and small accessories. Constructive critique is welcome and some assembling photos
  22. Hi! Let me present my last finish. A Dragon 1/35 panzerjäger Hornisse. I usually finish a few aircraft and ship kits each year, but this is my first 1/35 AFV in so many years. It's also my first time doing crew figures in action in an open-top vehicle. I also tried a full PE set for the armor plates. The fighting compartment armor is in full brass (I'm certain it will resist a 6 mm BB airsoft bullet at normal combat range, the paint won't survive though). So, the kit is Dragon's original release back in 2002. One PE set for armor plates and another set for interior details were from Lionroar, track links are AFV club and the crew is from Tristar. Originally the guy ramming a round into the breech was prepared, unfortunately I wasn't able to fit him properly with all the ammo boxes/tubes on the floor. (I did dry-fit them but perhaps not everything all at once. It's problematic because this build spanned over 7-10 years) In the end, the guy holding a round (from the same set) was brought in. The ammo doesn't seem heavy for him, if you notice. Anyway, it was done and I am quite happy with it. I'll certainly do more German panzerjäger and I hope it won't take such a long time to finish another one. Thank you for having a look. Comments are surely welcome. It is my pleasure sharing my model with you, as much as I'm enjoying your works posted on the forum. Nanond
  23. I have started on a diorama to show off the Hitachi Zaxis 135US Excavator i built earlier. If you care to have a look at the excavator itself it is here: Since an excavator is intended to dig, as far as I know , I wanted the scene to show just that - an excavator digging a hole. I have settled on road work scene where one of the lanes of a street has been blocked off with barriers, and the behind the barriers the digger is at work. My scene plan/sketch looks like this: Apart from the stuff shown above I intend to add other details as well, like various signs, traffic cones and likewise. So far I have also cut the diorama base from piece of extruded foam. The foam is 5 cm (2") thick which hopefully is enough for the depth of a decent looking hole.
  24. Shar2

    T-14 Armata. 1:35

    T-14 Armata Revell 1:35 The T-14 Armata is a next generation Russian main battle tank based on the Armata Universal Combat Platform. It is the first series-produced next generation tank. It has entered serial production, with the first batch of 100 T-14 Armata tanks being deployed with the Taman division, and it is expected to be completed by 2020. The Russian Federation was expecting to order 2,300 new main battle tanks for delivery by 2020. In 2015, Russian media had announced that around 20 tanks had been delivered for testing, without naming a source, and at least seven T-14 Armata tanks appeared in the 2015 and 2016 Moscow Victory Day parade, five in 2017. But in 2016 the Russian defence ministry announced that it had signed a contract for a “test batch” of 100 tanks to be delivered by 2020, with the full project extended until 2025. In July 2018, Deputy Prime Minister for Defence and Space Industry Yury Borisov said there is currently no need to mass-produce the Armata when its older predecessors, namely the latest variants of the T-72, remain "effective against American, German and French counterparts”, saying, “Why flood our military with Armatas, the T-72s are in great demand on the market(s).” Instead, a modernization program of the T-72s, T-80s and T-90s in-service will take precedent. In August 2018, at the ARMY2018 Forum outside Moscow, the Russian Ministry of Defence signed a contract for the purchase of 32 T-14s tanks and 100 T-15 infantry fighting vehicles, with delivery to be finished by 2021 The Model This is a re-boxing of the Zvezda kit from 2016, as such the kit is quite well known and from what I’ve seen is pretty good when built up. Unfortunately Revell have used their own flimsy end opening boxes rather than the strong Zvezda type, but its fine if you don’t want to store it for any length of time. The kit itself is very nicely moulded and come on eight sprues of light grey styrene and a single clear sprue. There are also squares of mesh which need to be cut to size for the engine deck grilles and a small decal sheet. There are no signs of flash or other imperfections and only a few moulding pips. Construction begins with the fitting of the engine deck grilles, using the netting supplied. There are templates in the instructions for the modeller to cut to the correct size. For covers are then fitted on the underside of the grilles. The crew vision ports and hatches are then glued into position on the upper hull section, while on the lower hull section the two, three piece exhausts are assembled and attached, followed by a large panel on the underside. The upper and lower hull are then glued together and two more net grilles are added to the very rear of the ending deck. The rear bulkhead is then fitted with the numerous brackets, towing eyes, and tow hook before being attached to the rear of the model. The two rear mudguards are assembled from three parts and glued into place. The lower glacis plate is then fitted with the attachment points for the various engineering equipment tan can be fitted to most Russian tanks such as dozer blades etc. The front mudguards are then attached, followed by the assembly of the fourteen dual road wheels, idler and drive sprockets. The return rollers, four per side are glued into place, followed by the axles and, where required, the three shock absorbers per side. The idler and sprocket axle covers are also fitted at this point, as is the spaced armour, and spare track links for the rear bulkhead. The road wheels, idler and drive sprockets are now fitted to their respective axles followed by the assembly of the tracks. Each track is made up from link and length with separate guide horns, and while not quite as realistic as individual links can make it easier to assembled for the less experienced modeller. The tracks are then glued into place, but I would normally do this at the end of painting as it’s easier to paint the track and vehicle before fitting. Because of the size of the two, three piece side skirts, it is possible to get away with only making the lower length of track if you’re not too worried about doing something that can’t be seen. You can add the side skirts after painting and fitting of the tracks if you so wish. The engine deck is further detailed with the fitting of hinges, stowage covers, deck armour, cables, and hinge covers. The towing cable is then glued to the rear bulkhead and the upper lengths of the side skirts are also fitted. The attachment arms for the slated armour to the rear of each side of the tank are glued into place followed by the armour itself. Fortunately the arms are moulded integrally with their hinge points, making the setting of the correct angles so much easier than the Takom version of this tank. The turret is now assembled with a plethora of panels, vision blocks, additional armour, grab handles, lifting eyes, and the many defensive launchers. Be aware that there are quite a few panels that have to be fitted internally including the sight doors before the turret ring can be attached, and including the large active defence launch tubes. The main gun is made up from thirteen parts and is fitted to the turret ring section before that turret is closed up. The remote machine gun mounting is made up from twelve parts before being attached to its base and sight consisting of another eight parts. The mounting can be glued into position or left to rotate as required. The turret is then further detailed with additional sensors, aerials and other fittings before being attached to the hull. Decals While there are two paint options, there are only decals for one vehicle, that of the prototype shown at the 2015 Moscow parade. Conclusion Zvezda are gaining a reputation for producing nicely detailed and buildable tanks and have come a long way over the years. This does look a very nice model from the box and there shouldn’t be any need any aftermarket to produce a good looking tank for your collection. There are also numerous paint schemes available to be seen on the internet, so you could try your hand at one of those. It’s great to see Revell re-release this kit as it gives those modellers unsure of buying a Zvezda kit a chance to see what they’re like while being backed by Revell. It also keeps product coming from Revell while they continue their reorganization which will hopefully lead to more self designed releases. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  25. I have been building this Hasegawa Hitachi Zaxis 135US excavator kit: If you care to have a look, the build thread is here: And here are some pictures of the result. I'm quite pleased with the outcome, but as always I also see a lot of flaws, but let's not dwell more on that right now. Please enjoy! Lennart
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