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  1. I've just received the following P.M. from a French modeller: "Homebee, did you see in the HLJ video at 27mn/29sec what was on display on the KH stand at the All Japan Model & Hobby Show 2013? http://www.hobbylink.tv/all-japan-model-hobby-show-reports-2013-part-2" You're right Norbert it's a.... So after its future Kaman SH-2D Seasprite - ref.KH80122 - (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234943427-kaman-sh-2-seasprite-148-from-kitty-hawk/?hl=seasprite), Bell AH-1Z Viper (Super Cobra) - ref. KH80124 - and UH-1Y Venom (ou Super Huey) - ref.KH80123 - (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234943269-148th-bell-ah-1z-viper-and-uh-1y-venom-by-kittyhawk-in-progress/?hl=cobra), KittyHawk is working on a 1/48th Eurocopter/Harbin SA.365/Z-9 Dauphin 2/"Haitun" kits family. Source Wikipedia: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:PLAAF_Harbin_Z-9WA.jpg V.P.
  2. After the the 1/48th Dassault Mirage F-1B kit ref. 80112 (see: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234926672-148th-dassault-mirage-f-1cctcrb-by-kitty-hawk-model-f-1b-review-link/page-3?hl=mirage ), KittyHawk is to release the Mirage F-1CT/CR versions under ref. 80111. Source: http://www.kittyhawkmodel.com/#!80111/cxg3 See also KittyHawk completely renewed homepage: http://www.kittyhawkmodel.com/ The box art: V.P.
  3. Here's the box art from de future KittyHawk 1/48th BAe Jaguar GR.1/GR.3 kit - ref. KH80106 Source: http://s406.beta.photobucket.com/user/KAGNEW-71-73/media/brvbar-brvbar-_zpsb4058b3e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Waiting now the Italeri new tool 1/48th Jaguar GR.1/.3 (ref.2714 - see herebelow) for a product comparison... V.P.
  4. After reviewing this kit a while back here, I figured I'd give it a go, cos I do rather like these Russian side-by-side two-seaters, and I've not built anything modern for a while. I've built a few Kitty Hawk kits over the years, and found that as long as you test fit and keep your wits about you, they build up into pretty good models. So, with as many wits as I can scrape together, I set about building it, which is nice I'll try to flag up any gotchas so you don't have to find them out the hard way, but there's always a better way of doing things, so I reserve the right to be wrong at any point I began at the beginning (really? ) with the cockpit, and the seats, which are made up from a surprisingly large number of parts. I always clean up parts prior to fitting to remove mould seams, any flash and such that inevitably crop up with even the bestest moulding machines. The seats went together well with a bit of the aforementioned fettling, and given the part count, I took my time, adding a few parts and leaving them to dry off while I did something else. Each one has 20 parts before you break out the seatbelts, so if you try to put them all on together, you're gonna have a mushy mess on your hands. I ran across an issue with the rear panels on the headbox, which were a bit wide at the front, so I trimmed them down and they fit nicely now. I also noticed that the kit sides have two location pegs, but only one hole in the seat pan, so I cut off the rear one. It doesn't affect fit at all, as they butt hard up against the rear of the seat. The end result is some rather nice seats Their ejection rails are a single styrene part with a PE back, but there's a little break in the groove that holds the PE, so I sliced and trimmed that out so they fit within it better. Quite delicate, so I'm trying to be careful when I'm handling them. Incidentally, some of the part numbers are switched on the small parts, so check the diagrams, rather than trusting you have the correct arm-rest or whatever. The cockpit floor needs a few parts adding, and those are quite small and delicate, so before you add those, widen the slots for the launch rails a bit, so they fit a little looser. You'll thank yourself later Here's a weird thing. There's only one pair of rudder pedals, and they seem to be fitted between the two pilot stations, with one pedal for each pilot. Is that a mistake on the designer's part, or is that how they look? The rear bulkhead is a snug fit to the floor too, so test that and check if it needs a little easing. Now for the engines. Cutting and preparing took a couple of minutes, and I cut them dremelled off the ejection turrets inside to save weight, even though it's unnecessary for all but the one at the rear. Less plastic at the back, less nose-weight needed I glued two sections together first, and allowed the glue to set up a little before I tried in the third section, holding the ends betwixt thumb and forefinger while I got the join nice and neat. You can run glue along the last two joins from inside if you've left the first joint long enough, and adjust the seams while the glue is still moist ( ) . I'm not bothering with ancillaries or painting the engines on mine, so I won't be hiding the seams, but with care you can get them nicely lined up to minimise the job. The 2nd one was a tad harder because I hadn't left the first seam long enough, but overall not too difficult. I later glued in the engine fronts, but left the rear off for now, while I fill the three seams that'll probably never be seen The gear bays were a mixed bag. The nose gear bay is easy enough up until you put the rearmost C-shaped panel in, which I think is a little wide for the aperture. I test fitted the main parts of the bay in the lower fuselage, and couldn't find a way to make part C26 fit unaltered. The groove it fits into could be the culprit, but I ended up sanding away the lip until it was very small, after which it fitted nicely. Part C25 fits the bay ONE way, which you can tell by looking at it from above. The end of the lips taper in at one end, and that matches the contours of the bay. That'll save some head-scratching There's a couple of square ejector-pin marks in the bottom of this part, one recessed, the other proud. I put a slip of styrene in the low one and sanded them both back flush with a narrow stick. The main bays go together fairly easily, but F16 isn't used for both bays. F15 is used with B30, and F16 is fitted to B29. Those can be added after you've built the bay to make things easier for yourself. The same goes for D9 and D10. The numbers are switched in the diagrams, so swap 'em over if you haven't yet spotted they wriggle in the wrong direction. The gun bay is a simple affair, so not worthy of leaving the access panel off, so I built it up without titivating it, and won't paint it either. part F33 is a bit mushy as well as being tiny, so take care fitting it. My barrel had a weakness in the corrugated part, probably caused by two cooling wavefronts of styrene meeting and not mixing well. I glued that back together, and will replace the muzzle with some micro-tubing to get a nice hollow barrel and a realistic steel finish. Here's a pic of the various assemblies sat together: I'm currently working on the fit of the engines to the fuselage, which are held into the lower fuselage by a slot on the bottom of the engine, and two tabs on the leading edge, which you can see in the pic above. The bulkheads that glue into the fuselage aren't tooled properly, and one of the slots has been inverted in CAD, and has been moulded as a rectangular block sticking out. Oops! I chopped them off and drilled a new slot, tweaking fit as I went. They should fit reasonably central in their nacelles now, once I've painted the front and rear. Those two afterburner rings also had a couple of cold-front weak-points, so I drizzled glue in there and left them to set up. I've just started cleaning the parts up, with tiny amounts of flash on the uprights that I would rather remove, even though you'll be hard pushed to see up the tail without a flashlight! That's where we're up to as of now, and I'm quite enjoying myself. I would have held out for some Eduard parts to detail things normally, but as the canopy doesn't open, there's not a lot of point me lavishing detail on it, even if the sets were available (which they aren't at time of writing). If the exterior sets arrive before I get the fuselage closed up, I could be tempted, and I've just noticed that KH are working on a set of metal legs for this kit. After building the AMK Mig-31 and watching its legs spread under the weight over the next year or so, I'd really like to get hold of a set Shall I carry on with a detailed description of the build, or just crack on in a "today I built the xxxx" manner?
  5. Hello! For my second appearance on this sympathetic forum, a little drift from my theme (USAF Jets, 1/72): The Kitty Hawk T-6G2. Why this kit? simply because I had a "shock" during one of my travel back in France to see in a model shop this kit with the illustration of my dad aircraft flew in the 50's. So I decided obviously to buy the box and build the model for him. Back in history, my dad flew the T-6G2 during the Algerian war at "EALA 13/72". During this period, it was common for metropolitan fighter pilots to re-enforce close air support units in Algeria for a short term. So my dad, coming from EC 1/5 "Vendee" did a tour at EALA 13/72 where he flew T-6G2 114-440 WI and he was shot down by rebel ground fire: a single "golden BB" hit one of the two propeller blades, seizing the whole engine. He capsized during the belly landing but escaped with minor bruises. Building this model was a long journey because I wanted to make it "first class" for him. After opening the box, the kit seemed awesome but a closer examination revealed that it is far from being flawless. I did a lot of work to correct all the mistakes, especially in the wheel wells (wrong shape) and L/G, the rear portion of the fuselage after the canopy (way too thin), armament (wrong), etc... The cockpit and its inner framing have been completely re-designed, KH made a lot of mistakes here. I replace the propeller by a correct one (I forgot the manufacturer name) and the engine (resin). (If somebody is interested I have the full list of correction to be made to have a decent T-6G). To add some twist to the build, I open the port fuselage panel to show the inner details. Thanks God documents are plenty. I selected a yellow bird my dad flew also (he crashed in an aluminium-painted aircraft) because of the big shark mouth, the trademark to this squadron. The paint scheme is a mix of different yellows to mimic the faded "trainer yellow" applied originally in US when the aircraft was delivered to France. Also, I painted all the roundels and codes and obviously the shark mouth because the decal proposed by KH is wrong. Here are the pix (sorry for the poor quality: The true bird: My dad aircraft: Hope you will enjoy this kit!
  6. Source: http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/message/1344567290/Re-+Trumpy+A3D+Skywarrior Kitty Hawk homepage: http://www.kittyhawkmodel.com/ If not 1/48th F-11F Tiger (what a pity!)... Anyone's guess. - McDonnel FH-1 Phantom - McDonnel F2H-2 and F2H-3/4 Banshee - in the pipe line - North American AJ-1/AJ-2 Savage - North American FJ-3 Fury Kitty Hawk 2018-2019 ? - Douglas F3D/F10 Skyknight - Czech Model kit re-released - Grumman F9F-8 Cougar - done - Vought F7U Cutlass Kitty Hawk 2019 ? - Grumman AF-2/3 Guardian - Special Hobby kits - Lockheed T2V Seastar Etc. Current (06/2019) programme/catalog... No Cutlass! https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235047344-kitty-hawk-panda-hobby-catalog-2019-programme/ I vote for the AJ-2 Savage and the F2H-3 Banshee - with AF-2W Guardian the outsider V.P.
  7. #21/2021 So, my dad has finally finished his mojo killer. The Kitty Hawk kit looks good in the box but is no beginners kit. Many parts don´t fit good, pins don´t fit in their holes....so if you build it, dryfit everything. Well, it didn´t turn out perfect (which kit does?), some glitches, but better than landing on the shelf of doom or in the trash. Kitty Hawk first released the French Jaguar and then the British one. The only thing Kitty Hawk did was changing the nose, the rest of the kits are the same. So my dad had to add the position/formation lights on the "bar" of the vertical stabilizer. Furthermore he reshaped the French pylons to the British form, using the Airfix kit parts as template. The British ones are shorter/smaller and not as pointy as the French ones. Regarding the loadout, if you want to build a Desert Storm version you can only use the two Sidewinders, the single fuel tank, the two BL-755 cluster bombs and the PHIMAT chaff dispenser. The rest of the kit weapons are useless for that. Sadly no AN/ALQ-101 included in the kit, bought a resin piece from Flightpath UK. The kit´s seat is too tall. For closing the canopy you have to remove some plastic of the kit´s bottom. Used lead wire to add some lines to the landing gear legs. Kitty Hawk only provides the earlier two antennas after the cockpit. "Sadman" already had the later style single antenna, did some scratchbuilding there. There was some kind of "adapter" between PHIMAT and pylon, no such thing in the kit, used a piece of plastic. Painted the whole thing with a mix of sand and flesh. Kit decals used, only the little "Q"s on the vertical stabilizers came from Xtradecal. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235093580-operation-granby148-sepecat-jaguar-gr1a-raf/ DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0024 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0025 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0026 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0027 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0028 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  8. One of my dad´s excursions to the modern jet world. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  9. SH-60F Oceanhawk (KH50007) 1:35 Kitty Hawk The Sikorsky UH-60 Black Hawk was the Military designation of the S-70 design which was the winner of the US Army's 1970's competition for a twin engine medium lift helicopter to replace the UH-1. Following tradition it was named "Black Hawk" after the Native American leader and warrior of the Sauk tribe. Following the original UH-60A there have been many improvements and variants of the original airframe. Following the competition for replace the Seasprite which was won by the SH-60BSeahawk; the USN Navy then found itself in a position of needing to replace the venerable Sea King in the anti-submarine role. Again there were various submissions but Sikorsky came in a with a new version of the Hawk family the SH-60F. This helo would differ from the Seahawk by not having the search radar or MAD boom, but having a dipping sonar system and six tube sonar buoy launcher. As well as anti-submarine duties they were uses as plane guards and for shore side rescue. These have now been replaced in service by the MH-60S. The Kit This is a new tool from Kitty Hawk, like other members of the family it shares sprues with the other kits, The kit arrives on 13 sprues of plastic, two clear spures, a sheet of PE, and three sheets of decals.. The large box is fairly stuffed with plastic! some parts are common sprues for other versions so there will be a lot of parts left over. The first thing to strike you when you open the instruction booklet is the first 5 stages are blank! They are misprinted along with further pages of the booklet. Now this is the third one of these large Naval Helos to be reviewed and they have all had issues with the instructions. I would say that KH really need to address this issue as from their Facebook page it becomes clear they have shipped to customers like this. Construction then starts with the main cabin which is in effect a module which will fit inside the fuselage. We start with the floor and opening up of various holes for the internal fixings. The central well for the cargo hook is boxed in, then the centre console for the cockpit is added. Three main seats must now be built up for the pilots and the rear sensor operator; PE belts being provided for these. The cabinets and consoles for the rear position are then built up and installed on the left side, and the six shot sonar buoy launcher goes on the right in the area occupied by the radar avionics for the SH-60B. At the front end the main control panel goes instruments being provided as decals). Behind the rear operator the sonar buoy launching rack goes in, and behind that the rear bulkhead. The pilots controls need to go in and the left & right sides go on. Two additional seats go in the rear these hang from the cabin roof. The bulkhead separating the flight crew area and the rear area needs to be fitted in followed by the side parts. The cabin roof then needs to be fitted to the main module, at the front of this is the pilots overhead console where again instruments are provided as decals. The cabin module is then complete and can then be placed inside the fuselage halves. There are a large number of holes to be opened up before fitting this and rear wheel assembly (much further forward on the Naval helos) must be installed at this time. Once the cabin is built up attention then moves to the engines. There is quite a lot of detail here as two complete engines are built up along with all the internal structure. These are all fitted into the roof of the engine house. Gearboxes to the main rotor are added along with the exhausts. The intake assemblies are also built up and added. If wanted the external covers can be added, or they can be left off for maintenance dioramas etc. To the top of the housing antennas are added. The main glazing now needs adding along with all the doors and external pylons and fittings. including the over door winch. The landing gear sponsons and the gear itself then needs to be built up and added to the main fuselage. Other sponsons and rack are also added for the armament. For this version the tail is separate and can be attached in the normal or folded positions. The large rear stabiliser is then made up and added along with the tail rotor. Unlike the SH-60B the instructions for folding the tail are better here. The rotor head must now been built up. This being a Naval helicopter the blades can be folded and the instructions do show some detail of how to do this, but again they are not the best for this area. If making an armed version the kit contains torpedoes and external fuel tanks. If Again unlike the SH-60B these are shown in the instructions as well as how to hang them. Also at this point there is what looks to be a 7.62mm door gun and mount which can be built and added if needed as part of your chosen decal option. Decals The decal sheets are in house and should pose no issues. The main sheet (which is rather large) provides the colourful main markings. These have been developed by Kitty Hawk in collaboration with Shayne Meder who did the real artwork on these aircraft, so there should be no issues there. A smaller sheets provides cockpit and other details, and a sheet with colourful graphics. From the box you can build one of six helos NAS Fallon Rescue HS-7 Dusty Boys Naval Aviation Warfighting Development Center (Camo Helo) HS-4 Black Knights HS-14 Chargers US Navy COMSEVENTHFLT (VIP Green) Conclusion The plastic looks great, and it should build up into an impressive looking helicopter. There is much to recommend this kit in terms of the quality of the parts and the available options, however it is let down again by the instructions. Overall though recommended to those who want a modern tooling of this Helo and are prepared to put the work into the research and building of the kit. Not for the faint hearted or those who want a quick / easy build. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  10. Hello. I have just finished this nice Su-22 kit from Kitty Hawk in 1/48 scale. It is the replica of the Yellow 77 unit from the Ukrainian Air Force. The cockpit and Canopy is detailed using Eduard's photo etch upgrade set and crew boarding ladder from "Part".
  11. Kitty Hawk is reported running two 1/48th helicopter kits: Bell AH-1Z Viper (Super Cobra) - ref. KH80124 Sources: http://www.kittyhawkmodel.com/#!80123/cnuv http://www.kittyhawkmodel.com/#!80124/c1eup http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=266634 http://scalemodels.ru/news/6428-vertoletnye-anonsy-Kitty-Hawk-Models-1-48.html Also a UH-1Y Venom (or Super Huey) - dedicated thread http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234974037-148-bell-uh-1y-venom-super-huey-by-kitty-hawk-cads/ - ref.KH80123. V.P.
  12. It seems we'll have another Su-34 in 1/48 in March 2016. Info from the local dealer. Source: GreenMats.Club
  13. Dassault Mirage 2000 family by Kitty Hawk confirmed - 1/48th or 1/32nd? Images look like 3D scans from M2000B 5-OW n°519 preserved at Espaces Aéro Lyon Corbas - EALC http://www.ealc.fr/ & https://www.tripadvisor.fr/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g1582569-d5979211-i156131920-Ealc_Musee_de_L_aviation-Corbas_Rhone_Rhone_Alpes.html Source: http://www.greenmats.club/topic/1267-новый-mirage-от-kitty-hawk-слухи-и-догадки/ Hey Tali, your source? I mean the Chinese forum link? Updt: Thanks Tali!!: http://tieba.baidu.com/p/4260567148 V.P.
  14. Haven’t posted on here for a while. This is one of a pair I did simultaneously last year (the other one motorised with sound) but I called it finished before I weathered it, and last week I decided to finish it so here it is. Used the Aires resin cockpit. Not the easiest kit I ever made. Quite poor fit in places. Anyone who builds one should know the guidance about weight in the nose it out by a factor of about 2, hence the bodged tail strut! Thanks for looking
  15. Hello guys! Today I received this awesome kit, Kitty Hawk's DB Super Etendard in 1:48. As you can see, the box is full of plastic, most of that plastic is dedicated to the weaponry and fuel tanks. A small photoetch fret is included with the kit. Because I don't have a very good experience with Chinese decals, I bought two sheets from Calcas del Sur for the Kinetic SuE, but I assume they'll work just fine with this kit. Anyways, I hope to be able to post regular updates for this kit (I haven't seen many build reviews of KH kits on the internet).
  16. Kitty Hawk is to release a 1/48th modern Russian airfield set - ref. 80158 - including: a URAL 4320 truck & APA-5D Russian airfield starter truck Source: https://www.facebook.com/song.wang.5076/posts/2105122629746351 as well as Russian bomb loading carts Remember AMK is supposed to propose - one day... - a APA-5D kit: link V.P.
  17. Hi all, I wonder if anyone can help me? i purchased a Kitty Hawk F-35b (1/48 scale) which is a stunning kit, the problem is some of the parts on Sprue B are ‘short shot’ and only half moulded. My question is..... does anyone have any way of getting in touch of either Kitty Hawk themselves or the U.K. supplier so I can purchase a replacement sprue? I’ve tried the usual ways- Facebook page, original supplier etc. though with no luck. Can anyone please help?
  18. Sukhoi Su-30SM Flanker-H (KH80171) 1:48 KittyHawk The Su-30 was a development of the Su-27 with two branches of development being carried out simultaneously, one manufacturer making export versions for China and other countries, while the Irkut Corporation that are based in Moscow handled the Russian airframes and those for other Allies, both under the over-arching banner of the Sukhoi name. The Russian variant is the SM, which is the subject of this kit. It has small canards for manoeuvrability, to which is added vectored thrust from the twin engines, which are capable of adjusting the angle of the exhausts up to 15o in half a second, giving it even more agility that is great for airshows as well as useful in dogfights. SM stands for “Serial Modernised”, which fortunately for us starts with the same letters in Russian too. A few vanilla Su-30s entered service, and over a hundred SM later joined them, becoming operational in 2018, although they did take part in the 2015 Russian intervention in Syria, performing some low-risk missions and more than a few low-intensity combat sorties according to Western intelligence. The SM is also flown by the Russian Knights that are often seen at airshows, so up until this year’s Covid-related show cancellations, a lot of airshow-goers will have seen them hanging in the sky on their exhausts. The SM is to be joined by the SM1 that has more powerful avionics and engines, standardising on the same power plants that are fitted to the Su-35 along with other aspects of its service and repair envelope to reduce costs while improving availability of both qualified technicians and therefore airframes. Delivery of these airframes should begin in 2021, with a further updated SM2 following along after a contract for a small number was signed in 2020. The Kit This is part of the new range of Su-27 and Su-30s that are arriving this year from Kitty Hawk. It turns up in KH’s usual sturdy top-opening box, and includes eight sprues and two fuselage halves in grey styrene, two sprues of clear plastic, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE), a pair of exhaust nozzles in resin that are kept safe in a small plastic box. The decals and instruction booklet complete the package, with colour profiles on the inside cover and in the centre of the booklet. All the sprues are individually bagged, and there is a huge amount of detail moulded into this kit, with a pair of engines included, along with a detailed painting guide and access hatches to show them off, a very nice cockpit with lots of parts and decals for better detail, a full representation of the N011M Leopard phased-array radar and avionics black box in the forward fuselage. Construction begins conventionally with the cockpit, specifically the two RD-36 ejection seats, each made from eleven parts, PE belts for both crew members, plus their four-part rail and bulkhead assemblies. The inner facets of the side consoles are moulded into the dual cockpit tub, with the outer sections added separately, with the bulkheads, seats, control columns, main instrument panels and decals, rudder pedals, rear seat coaming, and the jack for the canopy installed at the rear. The preparation of the interior continues with the avionics ‘black box’ and the nose gear bay assemblies, plus two intake trunk sections that form the bulkhead in front of the engine faces, which are made next. The engine housing is made up from two halves, and inside is the front and rear fan with the rear bullet fairing surrounded by the afterburner ring, and the various external ancillaries taking up a further nineteen parts for each power plant. These are then dropped into their sponsons in the lower fuselage along with the aforementioned bulkheads and blanking plate to the sides, then two small brackets linking them together. The main gear bays are next to be put together, filled with good detail in just three parts, then they, the nose gear bay, radar box and cockpit are all fitted inside the lower fuselage, joined by the canards that slot into their sockets and are trapped in place by the top fuselage. Also trapped is the ‘beaver-tail’ or ‘stinger’ that extends the fuselage between the engines and has a number of important sensors and self-protection features inside. The top and bottom portions are joined over a representation of the braking para-pack, then seven PE parts representing the chaff and flare pods and two small blade antennae are glued into place in their recesses, with the resulting assembly trapped on pins inside the rear of the fuselage during their mating. Curiously isolated from the making of the rest of the cockpit, the HUD with separate glazing and push-button panel is made up, then set aside for a while as you make up the front sections of the twin engine nacelles. The main skin has ramps and louvered auxiliary intake fitted to the floor, then in the roof is another ramp, plus the lower half of the trunking. They can be set either closed or open to suit your needs, and of course there are two to make up. They are attached to the lower fuselage after adding the HUD and demisting hosing to the cockpit aperture, then after that the GSh-30-1 autocannon is glued into the recessed bay and covered by its door, with just the muzzle left visible. The nose is then tipped with an angled adapter panel that covers the avionics equipment made up earlier, and this can be posed open by adding two struts and a bracket, or closed by omitting these parts. At the rear the para-pack door is able to be posed open with pack showing, or closed using the same parts. The two upper access panels on the forward section of the engine bulges are dropped into the holes or left off to expose your hard work, with the central air-brake at the rear of the cockpit hump again able to be shown open or closed by using the ram that is included to prop the brake at the correct angle. A pair of sensors are then installed on the outer sides of the engine nacelles. This picture shows one nozzle with the flash removed to show off the internal detail The included resin exhaust nozzles have them angled down to depict maximum deflection in that direction, and these parts have a sheet of flash covering the open end that you should carefully cut from the part before washing and painting. Take care with cutting too close, and add back the steps on the interior of the petals with a sharp blade or file before you wash them to remove residual mould-release agent. They mount on a lug to ensure they are fitted the correct way, and are noticeably longer than the unused plastic exhausts on the sprues, which are marked Su-27. The wings have the usual tab and slot fit, and have separate front slats and flaps, two-part elevons and strakes just under the pivot-point. The landing gear struts are fairly complex on the real thing, and the detail has been replicated by using separate parts for the top, the oleo-scissors, brake assembly and ancillary brace, topped off with a two-part tyre that has the hubs moulded-in, and the two bay doors each having their own struts to hold them at the correct angle. The nose gear strut is similarly complex with separate top, three landing lights with clear lenses, additional details, and one large bay door that has a cylinder on the inside face, with a retraction jack set deep into the bay. The twin wheels are each single parts and are surrounded by a louvered mudguard at the rear. There are a large number of sensors in the Su-30SM, with many blade antennae around and under the nose, and aft onto the LERX and cockpit hump. The refuelling probe is also found on the port side of the nose, and that too can be posed open or closed, the latter requiring the aft section to be removed so that it sits semi-flush inside its receptacle. The radar gives you a choice of two flat sensors, which are both nicely detailed and fix to the bulkhead in the nose, to be covered with the radome and probe or not, depending on whether you are showing the nose tipped up for maintenance. The canopy is moulded as a single part and is very clear, but has a couple of very small sink-marks in the “b-pillar” vertical frame where there are contact point for the interior structure. As a result, the “glass” portion dips ever-so slightly as it approaches the frame, which will be difficult to do anything about without taking your life in your hands. It is small, so could well be ignored, and will be further obfuscated by the internal frame that is fitted from inside along with the rear section where the canopy attaches to the aircraft. A set of rear-view mirrors are also attached to the inside, which should look good with some Molotow liquid chrome applied to the mirror area. The windscreen part is separate and has two thin kinked PE strips added to the inside before fitting, which would be best attached with some clear acrylic gloss such as Klear. In front of the windscreen is the OLS-30 laser-optical locator system (think IRST with extras) in a bullet-shaped housing that has a clear lens and aerodynamic fairing so that it blends in with the windscreen. The airframe is completed by the twin fins with moulded-in rudders that have fairings added to the rear and a small insert fitted to the leading edge to complete the intake there. A pair of wingtip rails with tiny tip lights are added to the wings, with a dual-rail pylon included for under each wing. No weapons are included for a change, but if you have any of KH’s other Russian/Soviet kits, you’ve probably got plenty on hand already. Markings There are three decal options on the supplied sheet, which are protected by a ziplok bag and coated paper during transit and storage. From the box you can build one of the following: Russian Federation Air Force Red 24 Russian Navy Blue 45 Russian Knights Blue 31 Check your references for Blue 45, as it has an apparently monotone flag and code number that both seem to use the blue of the fuselage instead of a separate blue shade. This could of course be at a different point in the aircraft’s career, so don’t take my word for it. The decals are printed anonymously, and are in fair register, although my sample has a slight drift in the white, as well as a couple of blemishes in two of the larger Russian Knights decals, marring the red/white stripes and one of the sunbursts on the tail. Hopefully your copy will fair better from being on the slow boat, rather than the fast aircraft from China. Conclusion Another good-looking kit from Kitty Hawk that has lots of detail and some striking decal options straight from the box. There are a few minor issues with the decals, but nothing that can’t be fixed. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
  19. A new M. Song Wang subliminal message in the Kitty Hawk afficionados Facebook group. Kitty Hawk might have a 1/48th Kamov Ka-52 Alligator "Hokum-B" kit in the pipe line. To be followed Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/369828906819827/permalink/667734353695946/ V.P.
  20. Kitty Hawk is preparing a 1/32nd North American T-28 Trojan family for 2015. Sources: https://www.facebook.com/736521713066784/photos/a.736557876396501.1073741828.736521713066784/811973858854902/?type=1&theater https://www.facebook.com/736521713066784/photos/a.736556396396649.1073741827.736521713066784/812667008785587/?type=1&theater V.P.
  21. SH-60B Seahawk (KH50009) 1:35 Kitty Hawk The Sikorsky UH-60 Black Hawk was the Military designation of the S-70 design which was the winner of the US Army's 1970's competition for a twin engine medium lift helicopter to replace the UH-1. Following tradition it was named "Black Hawk" after the Native American leader and warrior of the Sauk tribe. Following the original UH-60A there have been many improvements and variants of the original airframe. During the 1970s the US Navy began looking for a replacement for its Kamen SH-2 Seasprite which was used by the Navy as its platform for the Light Airborne Multi-Purpose System (LAMPS) MK.I system. The new avionics of the LAMPS Mk.II needed a bigger airframe. After looking at a variety of airframes the USN decided on a maritime version of the S-70. The biggest changes being the addition of a folding tail, and main rotor assembly for ship board operations. The S-70B would be designated the SH-60B. Also added to the helicopter for Naval operations would be a sonar buoy launcher, emergency floatation system (later removed), and the left hand door of the UH-60 was removed. The new helicopter would keep an 83% commonality of parts with the UH-60. The prototype fist flew in 1979 with production deliveries beginning in 1983. The Kit This is a new tool from Kitty Hawk, like other members of the family it shares sprues with the other kits, The kit arrives on 12 sprues of plastic, two clear spures, a sheet of PE, and two sheets of decals.. The large box is fairly stuffed with plastic! some parts are common sprues for other versions so there will be a lot of parts left over. Construction starts with the main cabin which is in effect a module which will fit inside the fuselage. We start with the floor and opening up of various holes for the internal fixings. The central well for the cargo hook is boxed in, then the centre console for the cockpit is added. Three main seats must now be built up for the pilots and the rear sensor operator; PE belts being provided for these. The cabinets and consoles for the rear position are then built up and installed on the left side, and a box which contains avionics fits to the right side with a gap down the middle to reach the pilots. At the front end the main control panel goes instruments being provided as decals). Behind the rear operator the sonar buoy launching rack goes in, and behind that the rear bulkhead. The pilots controls need to go in and the left & right sides go on. Two additional seats go in the rear these hang from the cabin roof. The cabin roof then needs to be fitted to the main module, at the front of this is the pilots overhead console where again instruments are provided as decals. The cabin module is then complete. Once the cabin is built up attention then moves to the engines. There is quite a lot of detail here as two complete engines are built up along with all the internal structure. These are all fitted into the roof of the engine house. Gearboxes to the main rotor are added along with the exhausts. The intake assemblies are also built up and added. If wanted the external covers can be added, or they can be left off for maintenance dioramas etc. To the top of the housing antennas are added. The main rotor head is then built and the blades added. Now here is where Kitty Hawk and their instructions let us down. The parts are in the kit to support the rotors when folded, however there is nothing in the instructions to show how the rotor head needs to be configured for folding blades. The main cabin module can then be places inside the fuselage halves. There are a large number of holes to be opened up before fitting this and rear wheel assembly (much further forward on the Naval helos) must be installed at this time. The main glazing now needs adding along with all the doors and external pylons and fittings. There are optional structures such as a FLI turret for the front, but nothing is mentioned in the instructions about which option is for which decal option. The MAD and its pylon go on as well as the main landing gear and its mounts. For this version the tail is separate and can be attached in the normal or folded positions. The large rear stabiliser is then made up and added along with the tail rotor The complete top section and rotor can then be added to the main fuselage and the underside radome is added. Again here the instructions do not really explain how to attach the folded tail section very well. If making an armed version the kit contains torpedoes and external fuel tanks. If you are looking for how to attach these in the instructions then dont bother nothing is mentioned at all for this. Decals The decal sheets are in house and should pose no issues. The main sheet (which is rather large) provides the colourful main markings. These have been developed by Kitty Hawk in collaboration with Shayne Meder who did the real artwork on these aircraft, so there should be no issues there. A smaller sheet provides cockpit and other details. From the box you can build one of six helos YSH-60B LAMPS - Prototype Helicopter USN HSL-41 "Seahawks" - USN HSL-43 "Battle Cats" - USN HSL-45 "Wolfpack" - USN HSL51 "Warlords" - USN SH-60B From the Spanish Navy Conclusion The plastic looks great, and it should build up into an impressive looking helicopter. There is much to recommend this kit in terms of the quality of the parts and the available options, however it is let down again by the instructions. Overall though recommended to those who want a modern tooling of this Helo and are prepared to put the work into the research and building of the kit. Not for the faint hearted or those who want a quick / easy build. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  22. MH-60S Knighthawk (KH50015) 1:35 Kitty Hawk The Sikorsky UH-60 Black Hawk was the Military designation of the S-70 design which was the winner of the US Army's 1970's competition for a twin engine medium lift helicopter to replace the UH-1. Following tradition it was named "Black Hawk" after the Native American leader and warrior of the Sauk tribe. Following the original UH-60A there have been many improvements and variants of the original airframe. The MH-60S is the US Navy's replacement for the venerable Sea Knight. Unlike other naval versions of the 60 the MH-60 is not based on the original S-70.SH-60B platform but the UH-60L platform, but still with Naval features. The airframe is in reality a hybrid with twin sliding doors from the UH-60 airframe with the engines, gearbox and rotor from the SH-60. They also have the integrated glass cockpit from the MH-60R along with some of the avionics and weapons systems. The Kit This is re-boxing of the MH-60L which was a complete new tool from Kitty Hawk, The kit arrives on 15 sprues of plastic, two clear spures, a sheet of PE, decals, additional resin parts; and not least the two large fuselage halves. The large box is fairly stuffed with plastic! some parts are common sprues for other versions so there will be a lot of parts left over. As mentioned before starting the kit the modeller needs to decide which version they are doing. The instructions shipped with the kit are a complete mess they have some pages from the MH-60S boxing and some from the HH-60 boxing. New PDF ones can be obtained from Kitty Hawk but quite honestly these are not great as well. They show the sand filters being fitted though looking at reference photos not all the decal options had them. There is also included in the kit an excellent resin and PE M197 cannon for mounting on the side as per the box art. This does not feature at all in the instructions! The parts for stowing the folded blades are also included in the kit, however there is nothing in the instructions for this, and there seems to be no way to fold the tail, something I feel should have been included for a Naval Helicopter model of this size, complexity and cost. Construction starts with the main cabin. The centre console for the cockpit is added along with the control columns and pilots seats. The main and overhead panels go in with all faces provided as decals. In the rear the lifting well is boxed in. The rear seats, and those directly behind the pilots go in and then the cabin roof can go on. The internal side structures are then added to this module. Once the interior module is complete the main fuselage can be closed up around it, not forgetting to add in the tail wheel assembly. The main front screen can then go on along with the pilots doors and the main doors (though I suspect these will be left off until later). The main wheels and there support brackets can now be added on. Once the cabin is built up attention then moves to the engines. There is quite a lot of detail here as two complete engines are built up along with all the internal structure. These are all fitted into the roof of the engine house. Gearboxes to the main rotor are added along with the heat diffusing exhausts. The intake assemblies are also built up and added. Take a note from your references as to whether or not the sand filters are needed. If wanted the external covers can be added, or they can be left off for maintenance dioramas etc. To the top of the housing antennas and the IR jammer are added. The main rotor head is then built and the blades added. There is no option to fold the blades though this should not be too hard to do if the modeller wanted to. IR suppressing exhausts are also included in the kit, though again I have seen aircraft operating with and without these so again the modeller will need to check their references. The large rear stabiliser is then made up and added along with additional tail parts. At the front various antennas and sensors are added. The front FLIR turret and its mounts are made up and added. There are a few options here with no explanation so sounding like a broken record its back to your references. The rotor head is added to the engine housing at this point though I suspect most modellers will leave it until the end. A note on the rotor head I have seen on facebook that some parts of it are moulded back to front and will need to be cut off and repositioned to make them right. Again check your references or the discussion on KH FB Page! If making an armed version the stub wing assemblies for each side need building up and the appropriate weapons adding. The kit provides a lot of different options NONE of which are covered in the instructions along with no details of how to fit the stub wings or pylons. Decals The decal sheet is in house and should pose no issues. The main sheet (which is rather large) provides the colourful main markings. These have been developed by Kitty Hawk in collaboration with Shayne Meder who did the real artwork on these aircraft, so there should be no issues there. A smaller sheet provides cockpit and other details, though I detect a slight shift where the yellow has been overlaid on the white. From the box you can build one of four helos HSC-6 Screamin Indians HSC- 21 Blackjacks HSC-7 Dusty Dogs HSC-3 - Merlins SA07 To commemorate the 2011 Centennial of US Naval Aviation, this helo was painted as a 1950s era HU-2 Sea Blue scheme. Conclusion The plastic looks great, and there is an impressive array of weapons included. There is much to recommend this kit in terms of the quality of the parts and the available options, however it is let down badly by the instructions even if you manage to get a copy of the correctly printed ones, Overall though recommended to those who want a modern tooling of this Helo and are prepared to put the work into the research and building of the kit. A lot of options are doable from the box with the correct research. Not for the faint hearted or those who want a quick/ easy build. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  23. Recap - ref. KH80163 - Sukhoi Su-27 "Flanker-B" - ref. KH80168 - Sukhoi Su-27UB "Flanker -C" - ref. KH80169 - Sukhoi Su-30MK "Flanker-C" - ref. KH80171- Sukhoi Su-30SM "Flanker-H" - ref. KH80175 - Shenyang J-11 family - ref. KH80176 - Shenyang J-16 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kitty Hawk is to release in 2019 a 1/48th Sukhoi Su-27 "Flanker-B" kit - ref. KH80163 Source: https://tieba.baidu.com/p/5966177390 Box art But it's a Su-27SM in the box art https://russianplanes.net/id198962 https://russianplanes.net/regs/RF-95255 Schemes Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/369828906819827/permalink/665630623906319/ V.P.
  24. Slightly late to the party - I wasn't intending to start this build yet, but I moved it up because for once I wanted to actually finish before the deadline! This is my first groupbuild entry in flippin' YEARS so I'm looking forward to it! Here's the much-maligned Kitty Hawk F-35B in 1/48: The kit has a poor reputation with bad fit at the top of the list. Let's see if I can beat it into shape! There's a lot of plastic in this - all of the weapons bays are capable of being displayed, and the lift fan and main engine nozzle are intended to be deployed in the hover configuration. It's well-presented with a colour instruction book and some very nice decals for about eight different options. Because the kit isn't challenging enough (ha!) I'm also going to use the Eduard Big Ed set. It's not exactly their usual Smörgåsbord of goodies, this one is quite cheap and just contains the interior and exterior plus masks and the RBF tags (completely redundant for this build!) The weather's very nice, so I might as well waste it and do some undisturbed modelling! Alan
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