Austin 7 model

Very nice!

The image doesn't display, and when I click on it I am given a warning that the host website is unsafe and should be avoided. Lee

I wish I still had my 1959 Chevrolet Impala four door pillarless saloon. I bought it in the early 70s before I'd passed my driving test, and drove it many thousands of miles. As a right hand drive car it was probably made in Canada. I sold the registration number, XJJ6, for £115.00, and used that money to buy an Austin 7 special that I still own. I sold it for £45.00 to a local man, and it was used in the TV show "Rock Folies". The local kids called it "The Batmobile". Lee

Thanks BrianI, That certainly is an amount of work you are doing. I wait to see the results. Thanks Casey, The before and after pics show the Molotow is well worth the recommendations. I am going to a local model show here in Cornwall next weekend. I know there will be a paint specialist there, and someone I can ask about display cases. If there is chrome paint for sale, I'll buy some. Lee

Ben, You wouldn't need F360 to do that. The slicer programme that produces the file sent to the 3D printer will do it for you. Although how you scale from 1/64 to 1/72 is way beyond my limited brain power! I drew up the files for my Austin 7 model at full size. I didn't use the cad programme to scale them to 1/10, I used my slicer, Cura. That way I could print them at any scale. Lee

I have only used water washable resins. Virtually no smell. The printer is in a room off my kitchen, I don't need to shut the door when using it. After washing the parts with water I use IPA to to wipe the surface of the build plate and FEP, now that does smell! Because I haven't used any other type of resin I don't know if WW stacks up in strength and stability. Getting rid of the water afterwards is a bit of a pain. Lee

Hi Giuseppe. It is possible to post pictures here, but you have use a picture hosting website. I use "Postimages", there are others. Once you have joined the website, you can upload your pictures to the hosting website and post it here. This a casting I made a year or so ago for a model engine. The casting looks OK, but was a failure. Other hosting websites may have a different way of doing things. Good luck, Lee

A bit late with my reply, I have an Anycubic resin printer. I cut the front and bottom off a large cardboard box that fits over the printer with room to spare. I then draped several spare towells over the box, especially the front which is open. I put a 40 watt old fashioned filament bulb, not led, inside the box but away from the printer. Give a bottle of resin a good shake and put it near the bulb, not too near, and hang the build plate over the bulb. With the towells insulating the box the temp gets up to 85f in about an hour, in a sub 50f room. The resin is also warm and thin, and the build plate is up to temp. I then install the build plate, put in some resin and start to print. I leave the bulb switched on, or replace it with a 15 watt bulb left on during the print. The towells stay closed around the box during the print. It works and is very cheap. Like me. It's getting harder to buy old fashioned bulbs. I have two shops near me where I can them.

Unfortunately, the led's were bonded into their respective housings months ago. Before I bought the led's I had considered using fibre optic strands lit from a single led. I can't remember why I didn't!

Florian I would like to have found a warm led, and I am trying various resistors to see if I can dim them a bit. If I can't dim them I will put a dab of paint on them. Vanroon Thanks. I started off with FreeCAD, an amazing cad package, but perhaps not the easiest to get to grips with. I then got myself a "free" copy of Solid works, but realised after a while that free means until they decide otherwise. I now use Designspark mechanical for most of my designs, and every now and then, Solid edge. All these cad programmes have one thing in common. FREE! I would like to buy a cad programme, but only one I would own. There doesn't seem to be many of those about, so DS it is.

That sounds OK. I am posting a few images here of my 3D print of a 1/10th scale Austin 7 engine that I had intended to use in my model. But I've decided to go for a closed bonnet instead. The images aren't too good but they do show how good a resin printer is at producing detail. The head nuts are the size of the letter C on a 5p coin. Lee

I would like to have a go at making the missing parts. I would use a resin printer which would give the best results. I do have to say though that sometimes resin printed parts, especiaaly thin ones, are prone to warping. It might take a few tries. I live in Cornwall, so not much chance to pik the parts up. We would have to rely on a parcel service. If you want to either post a few pictures of the parts on here, or send them to me via a private message I can let you know if I can do it. Lee

I forgot to click on the follow topic button. I hope this will do it. If not, is there a way to add a follow topic request? Thanks Alexey. I have a supplier for Molotow earmarked, have you used it?

Thanks for the extra info Tony. I would like to get back into casting again, if I can find the time. I have 3D printed the patterns and moulds to make a small single cylinder petrol engine, bore size 30mm. Most of the parts would be sand cast, but the name plate would look much nicer if investment cast. The smallest letter is 1.5mm high, a letter "o", the middle is .5mm It might be easier to drill that out. Lee

I am making a 1/10th scale Austin 7 model. I would like the radiator shell, headlights and sidelights (all resin prints) to have a good chrome finish. The finished model will be in a display case. The chrome offered by ProScale paints seems good, any other recommendations? The radiator shell will be matt black on the middle surface where the text is, the text will be aluminium. I haven't filled the gaps yet! Lee