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Greg B

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Everything posted by Greg B

  1. Cheers Al, pair of socks you want isnt it? I'll dig out my pattern to cater for your 6 toes
  2. Thanks gents for all the nice comments! Bryn, the full build thread is here Linky. The burnt metal was done by using alclad, aluminium as the base, then pale burnt metal over the panel lines, then the clear colours from alclad (red, blue, yellow and green together with alclads clear mixer) in various combinations and depths filling in the gaps between the panel lines in a random fashion (well referring to phots). Not as difficult as it sounds! No phots at the moment as its raining outside!
  3. It's done, I'll get some pictures outside with it tomorrow as I'm still getting used to my new camera. So that will show the colours properly. Out of the box apart from AMS resin seat and tank extensions. Thanks Harold, they are the dogs danglies. Painted with Gunze and Humbrol flat coat using an Iwata HP-CH. My first foray into 1/32 scale
  4. The only difference between me and you is you use a paintbrush. When you get an airbrush Daz, the difference will suprise you!
  5. Stoppit! After seeing some of the builds on here over time I'm mostly playing catchup or trying desperately to work out how other people have done the sme thing. The kit has been good, only thing I wish I had done was metal tube and pinned the Tanks as it isnt as neat as I would have liked. But thats the engineer in me creeping out! Its not Tamiya, its not Hasegawa, but its pretty damn close and after a primer coat and the top coats the rivets have toned down really well. I'm looking forward to seeing Trumpeters Harriers and Crusader as they are catching the big 2!
  6. Ahh, space hopper heid! Thanks for the compliments Gents, nearly there now!
  7. Flat coated, ordnance added and RBF tags. I've just got to do a little touch up on some areas with the flat coat, then its put the tail planes on and its done.
  8. Greg B

    Heat discolouration

    Alclad do a series of 'clear' colours and a 'colourless base' for mixing them into. I used them on my F-100 and had no dramas with them, the red with blue and the clear made a good purple. If you want it lighter just add more of the clear base. They also now do some Hot Metal colours, one of which is a violet, however I have not seen them in this country yet and would love to get hold of them myself! If anyone can find them give me a shout!
  9. Yep, it gives a gloss finish. You need to add a matt coat of varnish afterwards to tone it down, or add a little bit fo Tamiya X-21 which is their flat base for turning gloss paints into a matt finish.
  10. Will be another day as I'm getting a new camera from Phreak tomorrow I must admit, I've tried lots of different flat varnishes and I'm afraid that nothing beats the Humbrol Flat Cote, I thin it about 10 parts thinners to 1 part flat cote with Xtracolour thinners and it goes on perfectly, a really thin and flat finish. Xtracrlix and Vallejo flats tend to have a slight satin sheen.
  11. If thats the case, because they are rose tinted I'm in with a Pink Spit to match your frillies!
  12. I'm getting a wooden plinth, a 5l tin of Barley Grey, 2 six inch nails and a 3" paintbrush. Best brace yourself matey!
  13. There is the point, its not the origin its how its used! I'm a bit disapointed as that means for us Aircraft modellers anything past the lightning is well out, unless you go for a Hawk or Gnat!
  14. Well, in that case I'm going to paint Sean Barely Grey and have him mounted on a Plinth, as thats the closest I'll get to 100% unadulterated British Beef! As we have then lost the big wing Harrier, Gazelle, Sea-King, Merlin, Griffon, Lynx, Squirrel, Typhoon, Jag, Toom, Herc, Tristar etc.
  15. A Wessex is British, its a Yank design for the frame but with turbine engines cos the piston of the original were not powerful enough and the Yanks only ever trialled their own turbine version. Besides which they were made in the UK! We could by rights go for a Mustang as it was built to a british specification and only worked properly when a Merlin was put in it!
  16. Mmmm, How about a Phantom? Jet engine invented by us, Ejector seats by Martin Baker, uses the steam catapult invented by us, need I add is slowed down on an angled deck (invented by us) by an arrestor hook, funnily enough we were there as well. Or am I being pedantic
  17. Just spent a couple of hours spraying on the finishing matt varnish with the ever reliable Humbroll Matt Cote. Apart for 5 x nav lights, hanging the ordnance and 6 RBF tags, I'm done! Pics will follow tomorrow when I can safely pick it up. All I'll say for now is it looks the part
  18. Very nice indeed, I love the markings especially!
  19. Good site Oz, I'll get my walkaround sent there as well. Rab, from the info on the site the correct FS is FS14031 Which equates to Xtracolour X152 US Helo Olive Drab. For any paint references look here its a good resource: IPMS Stockholm colour chart helpdesk
  20. Err, the paint should be a start, but its not as simple as lightening it, wait till you see the walkaround! The paint is rough and changes sheen in different light/angles, if you rub your hand on it the oils in your hand change the colour as well by making it darker! Like I said, its a start, pre shading, post shading and matting it down to death will do the trick. If Jen is around, the new green scheme for the Hercs is AFAIK the same so she might be able to help with a BS or FS! Cant help you out with the kit, if its a Hase repop it goes together nicely, but yet again on the walkaround there are a lot of lumps and bumps missing which form part of the defensive aids suite (HIDASS)
  21. If you want I'll put up a walkaround over the weekend of a WAH-64. Colour is supposed to be NATO non IRR Green. However it fades to death and varies with the light, start with Xtracrlix XA1110 which equates to FS14079 which is the dark green used in the USAF SEA scheme, close enough for a start.
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