JamesP

Just landed at Hannants

The finish is simply stunning.

Can't remember if I have the exact model but I have a Sparmax 0.5mm w/side cup for the same purpose. I don't use it a lot but it works fine once you've gotten use to it. Don't test on you latest build as you are likely to hose the model - AMHIK! My only issue is the side loading cup needs to be removed to fully clean it - just flushing with cleaner will not get rid of of all the paint especially where it attaches to the body.

For hand drilling I would avoid those brittle Carbide bits like the plague - I purchase a set and broke two just getting the ridiculously tight box open. I use a pin-vice as I have never need to use a motor tool for plastic ( but then I've never wanted to drill out all the portholes on a Titanic kit) and use the "Microbox" drills sets and just buy packs of the specific size then those small than 0.5mm inevitably break.

Oh yeah! I've got the full set, and have built the Healey. Yes the four British Sports cars were tooled in the UK and probably designed here too. They are also a lot more detail than Revell (US) American 1/32 cars of the time. Revell UK was set up so Revell could trade from within the UK and avoid import taxes, similarly with Revell (West) Germany gave them access to the Common Market at the time. The kits later appeared the Advent brand that was sold in department stores I believe.

Which probably explains why such errors keep creeping in to their releases. I’d welcome the subject if by another manufacturer but I can’t see AZ/KP improving on the sweet little Airfix kit beyond a handful of engraved panel lines.

Those SD Valkyries are surprising good and fully transform.

For every reasonably box of bits there is some idiot taking the Michael. I’ve seen a 1m square box full of Airfix series 1 kits obviously leaving the shelves of the local Aldi bare. So big was the box that it didn’t fit under the table and instead partially blocked the isle.

Can't believe any hosting company it still charging for SSL certs since Let's Encrypt issues them for free and renews automatically. There are few specific situations where they can't easily be used, eg you service is load balanced across multiple instances. IF you have shell and root access your server you can install it yourself.

If you can use Let's Encrypt the certificate is free and can automatically renewed every month. https://letsencrypt.org/

I can PM you my drawings for the glazing decals if you’d like.

Yes Yes Yes!

Blimey Charlie. The excellent photography really shows this model to it full potential.

Technically there is a gap for an inaccurate one.

village photos SSL issues, right click on the photo link and open in another tab,

This review for the GR3 shows the extra sprue https://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/airfix/kit_airfix_18003.shtml . Looks like nose and RWR on the tail and you are pretty much good to go.

Everyone complains about the latest reformulation of Humbrol paint so there is no reason it can’t be reformulated again. The only question is whether this is economically viable, though since Humbrol must have known this was on the cards why the seeming late reaction? Maybe a stock issue?

Thanks Greg these are very good points. I agree needle size is a misnomer. However I do attempt a thorough cleaning of the airbrush including the tip with a twist of tissue paper soaked in cellulose thinners. As to thinning, I’ve tried over thinning the paint to no avail. Also the issue occurs start away so it’s not the particles settling out. I may look at alternate methods of cleaning the tip.

I’m having exactly the same issue as the original poster. I used to be able to spray metallics through my Iwata Revolution CR(0.5mm) but over the last year I constantly have problems with spray stop/starting or just needing the needle fully retracted to get anything out. This includes Alclads, Vallejo Metal Color through to enamels. I can spray all kinds of non metallics absolutely fine. Unfortunately this thread quickly got off topic as I don’t see buying even more paint a solution as what I have should work fine. Could I have worn out/ caromed the airbrush tip, which is stopping the metallics particles from following for example.

I was comparing the box schemes with the side views you posted.

The box shows RB with a yellow and pointier spinner?

The instrument panel decal looks a huge improvement over recent ones (black with everything drawn in relatively thick white lines).

The engines look stunning

If it’s daylo then white else yellow would be a good choice. I’ve just finished mine and I found masking the hiviz scheme a royal pita. Yours looks very smart and so good luck with the orange.

I got mine today and agree with the comments above. My main issue is how overly complicated it is especially the nose and cockpit. The fuselage splits the guns troughs horizontally and there are at least four parts that form the tubes inside. I know some modellers want “all” the detail but I think a larger majority just want to enjoy putting a kit together. The CMR kit looks an easier build compared to this.