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Robin-42

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Everything posted by Robin-42

  1. I have the same diagram, the way the cutaway goes through two seperate cutaways makes it hard to follow. It appears to me that there is just enough opening to allow the leg to swing through it’s arc, but a picture would be worth a thousand words!
  2. Any of you experts have a photo of the interior of the retractable tailwheel well? I have some drawings in my references but they are unclear as to how far the “mudguard” section goes foward. There has to be some open area for the strut to retract. Most of the kits seem to jusy have a solid well.
  3. See that lovely gap at the top of the instrument panel. Should not be there. As the side panels are permently attatched, the panel frame will have to be trimmed to allow it to move upwards. If you are following my mistakes, save the grief, assemble the cockpit as a unit, then Dremel happily away at the kits fuselage until it fits. On the plus side, I am quite happy with my slight mod to the part of the fuselage frame sicking up proud of the fuselage. I made a pattern of the MasterCasters top, made two pieces out of sheet, trimmed down the MasterCasters part and thinned it. Then glued the sheet pieces and gently sanded them to blend into the frame.
  4. Tailwheel, Matchbox doors re oversized and the shape is wrong. I am gluing them in place and will cut out a better shape to match the resin. I can’t find a pic of the interiorof the tailweel bay shown in the aircraft manual drawings-anybody have one? Grey Matter have a simplified flat roof. Matchbox have a better representation of the mechanism, but it is incorrect in detail and is missing the “mudguard” which hides the hydraulics anyway. I have managed to open up the resin forks, but the tire looks a little small. I will see how it looks after painting.
  5. I don’t have any 1/32 plans, but I believe the resin is correct and the kit is off. The instructions do warn you of this, advising you to a add 1mm to the inside of the fuselage and to trim down the kit fuselage. I did find another build where he removed the fuel tank portion from the resin. Too late for that approach. In any case there will be putty, lots of putty.
  6. These fine books of course means I have no excuse not to get it reasonably right! As for the nose, studying plans shows that lining up the panel line on the resin nose below the fuel tank with it’s counterpart on the kit will put the resin nose in the right spot. The kit half of the fuel tank is going to have come down about 1mm, the sides as well. The wing stubs on the resin nose will have to come off as they sit way to high. This will have to be done after the fuselage is cemented together-again. So cockpit and tailwheel bay are up next.
  7. I am slowly working through my shelf of doom, finishing some kits that should have been binned. This was originaly built in the 70’s by my brother. I got it when he was going to throw it out. It had a fuselage, wings, and a propless spinner, only slightly less than the kit originaly had..... Over the years, I opened up the undercarriage bays, gave it an Aeroclub prop, vacuform canopy of unknown provenance, undercarriage, tailplanes and enlarged radiators from the Spitfire spares box. Highly inaccurate cannon barrels are turned brass by me. Now, if you wanted to do PK312 as it was originaly built, it would be far easier to start with a later F22 kit and swap an earlier tail on it. I have finished it and posted it because, well, not a kit many people are dumb enough to build, and I never give up on anything.....
  8. We don’t call that a mistake, we call it a “new technique!”.
  9. No, this one. https://www.hiddennewfoundland.ca/burgoynes-cove-b36-crash
  10. Great work on a deceptive little kit. Looks simple, it’s not.
  11. A very impressive build of a rarely finished kit. My photo has as it’s backdrop a wing section of one of Canada’s three B36 wrecks. This one near Gander Newfoundland.
  12. A very impressive build of a rarely finished kit. My photo has as it’s backdrop a wing section of one of Canada’s three B36 wrecks. This one near Gander Newfoundland.
  13. Immediately prior to the nose job. This is a problem. The wing fairings and lower cowl line line up perfectly, but this leaves a huge gap at the top and the whole upper part is too low. Raise it up and the entire lower section sits too high. Either the nose is undersized or the Matchbox fuselage is to large. The Grey Matter instructions do state to thicken the fuselage at the join and taper the kit to match, but you can only do this so much because on the real aircraft, the fuselage is pretty much straight from the cockpit foward. Current thought is remove the stub wing sections, align the top of the new nose and resculpt the lower cowl. Any advice gratefully accepted.
  14. A vacuformed canopy does wonders. I also actually prefer the rivets on these kits to the newer kits.
  15. Thanks Kieth, the references I have found, mostly right here on BM seem to indicate Interior Green for the F22, a bit lighter than other RAF aircraft apparently. Black seems to be a Navy thing. Having said that, museum and restored ones are green, black and a grey, although I never trust restored aircraft. At the moment the green is just a primer anyway, there is still time. I have the Valiant book on it’s way, maybe it will help. What I really want is a photo of PK613. The correction kit has a new canopy, or will, mine was missing, but a replacement is on the way.
  16. So, with the new nose, and the new interior, I am left with exactly one locating point for the fuselage at the end of the fairing. I could graft the engine on, but any error there would make everthing off. So am going to tape everything together without the engine and glue the fairings in place at their tops, thus joining them to the fuselage. This will give me someting to work with, then I can start hacking away to fit the engine. The sidewalls are in as well as the aft bulkhead in the cockpit. so
  17. The replacement frame at the headrest is undersized. Well, if you simply removed the molded on detail from the kit, they would probably fit ok. The issue is the entrance door. The fuselage needs to be thinned down considerably, or it looks like tank armour thickness. As it is, I still have it too wide. I have added some strip along each side of the bulkhead, but there will still be a lot of filling to get it to look right. The real aircraft has the skin rivited to that frame, so no gaps allowed. The headrest is getting modified as well, more on that next time. It is going to get worse before it gets better........
  18. Thanks Dave, even without a translation that was informative and intimidating!
  19. The guides for the canopy were made to make the canopy movable. As a result they are over scale, so they are being filled. The headrest brace will have to go as well.
  20. Rudder pushrods replaced with Albion Alloys tubing. One side down, one to go.
  21. After massacring the molded on detail in the cockpit and thinning the sidewalls as much as I dared, I elected to glue the port sidewall in first using the door as a guide. The instructions would have you install the tub as a completed unit, but that would make dealing with the seam around the door difficult. This way I also have a fixed datumn to work from for the rest of the bits.
  22. As usual, the questions come up early. Googling has not so far been too helpful, so if any of you guys have some links at your fingertips, it would be greatly appreciated. Looking for the following; ”Best” F22 drawings. I have a set in the SAM modellers guide, which appear to be good to my utterly untrained eye. Any in-service photo’s of PK613. Xtradecal must have based it on something? There will be more as I putter along.
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