GrahamEM Posted December 2, 2007 Posted December 2, 2007 So far after fitting together, filling and sanding with plasto,sanding sticks & emery cloth. it's very light, but then i spose it would be after building a Tornado GR4 Lots of glue needed i've found on this model so far but getting the two surfaces flat on the underneath because of no plastic locating pins means it slides out of place easily all along the length.
Mike Posted December 2, 2007 Posted December 2, 2007 Quick progress Graham A tip for the future, when you have flat surfaces to mate with little or nothing in the way of location pins (or pins that need removing cos they're crap). Add some strips of styrene along the join, attached to the side that would stick proud if it was left un-altered. I usually tape the parts together, and then go round putting pencil Xs near the area that stands proud on the correct side. The strips will then pull the low part out to the same level, reducing sanding. Worked a treat on the Jag, and it now clips together with no fannying around
GrahamEM Posted December 2, 2007 Author Posted December 2, 2007 Thanks for the tip Mike, i just wondered i could have used a scrap sprue part and glued inside to use as a butting up level ? i know you then have to wait until that dried beofre joining but do people do that also ?
Mike Posted December 2, 2007 Posted December 2, 2007 Thanks for the tip Mike, i just wondered i could have used a scrap sprue part and glued inside to use as a butting up level ? i know you then have to wait until that dried beofre joining but do people do that also ? Whatever will keep the 2 parts level & add a bit of strength really. Unfortunately, the sanding process puts a lot of pressure on the joint, so something sturdy will probably be a better bet than styrene strip. I'll probably add a partial bulkhead somewhere in the lower fuselage.
model_madness Posted December 2, 2007 Posted December 2, 2007 fannying around so that's what you do in your model room eh?
GrahamEM Posted December 2, 2007 Author Posted December 2, 2007 so that's what you do in your model room eh?
Mike Posted December 2, 2007 Posted December 2, 2007 so that's what you do in your model room eh? Amongst other things
GrahamEM Posted December 6, 2007 Author Posted December 6, 2007 Preshading done on the bottom, does not show on the top because i had to spray a darker shade of grey over the top of the lighter colour, maybe i should have left this alone until i did the sides and underneath.
GrahamEM Posted December 6, 2007 Author Posted December 6, 2007 I'm not too happy with the way the nose cone fits, it should be smooth all the way along but there's a bump where the two parts meet.
GrahamEM Posted December 10, 2007 Author Posted December 10, 2007 Right !... i've nearly finished this one, do i keep it hidden until i've built the next one ? i think it's best to and i've yet to order some decals for the 2nd build, dunnooo what squadron to do, either 16 or 41. does anyone know how the 'SAINT' logo came about on 16 squadron ?, i'm intrigued to know
hatchet Posted December 10, 2007 Posted December 10, 2007 Right !... i've nearly finished this one, do i keep it hidden until i've built the next one ?i think it's best to and i've yet to order some decals for the 2nd build, dunnooo what squadron to do, either 16 or 41. does anyone know how the 'SAINT' logo came about on 16 squadron ?, i'm intrigued to know The saint is actually not their logo, the two crossed keys are. It used to be a recce squadron and the keys symbolises unlocking the enemy's secrets by day (gold key) and night (black key). I seem to remember that the saint comes from being formed at St. Omer, but I'm not sure.
atdb27 Posted December 10, 2007 Posted December 10, 2007 Hi GrahamEM not signed in recently so picked this up late! If your doing a static model dont forget to fill in the side aux intake doors! Filler! Now this a model that loves plasto or which ever is to hand that you no doubt know about? Look at the sink marks on the u/side and the gun fittings area alone ! Yeah the nose can be a sob if you follow the instructions, I tend to 'stick 72 to 2 and 71 to 1 that way you only have an upper/lower seam to fill and not have to do a major blending in job to get rid of the 'step'! (as you describe and is shown in your pic) Also when you fix item 3 upper wing assy to 1 and 2 fuse halves line up the spine contour and fill from below.(again step effect as per your pic) Sqdn Choice! 16 Jags was a 'reserve' sqdn as such so not a real sqdn! ( that may stir some comment?) For a real Sqdn do a 41 bird (my first Jag Sqdn when we had the shiney new XZ101 onward series of reg's at Coltishall). HTH Adrian
GrahamEM Posted December 14, 2007 Author Posted December 14, 2007 I've finished this one in 54(f) squadron,((((( no piccies ))))) i will picture them together towards the end of the GB. Now started Jaguuaaaaar No2 and will be doing this one in 41 Squadron.
Col. Posted December 14, 2007 Posted December 14, 2007 I've finished this one in 54(f) squadron,((((( no piccies ))))) i will picture them together towards the end of the GB. Now started Jaguuaaaaar No2 and will be doing this one in 41 Squadron. You're a dirty tease! Come on, just a little snapshot to keep us going. Please?
GrahamEM Posted December 24, 2007 Author Posted December 24, 2007 Woo Hoo, got my Model Alliance decals this morning from Hannants for 41 squadron (2nd jag) it's for XZ103 special scheme
GrahamEM Posted December 24, 2007 Author Posted December 24, 2007 I'd like to do Camo on the fuel tanks but the two i'm doing don't have them in all the photo's i've seen.
GrahamEM Posted December 27, 2007 Author Posted December 27, 2007 latest - 2 Jags (no not John Prescott) I badly need to put up a shelf, clutter clutter clutter !!
GrahamEM Posted December 27, 2007 Author Posted December 27, 2007 ta Bex, done one of 'em in 54(f) squadron, next is 41 squadron and using for decal reference.
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