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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

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Found 39 results

  1. BAC Lightning F2A/F6 Electronics Bays (for Airfix/Eduard) 1:48 CMK from Special Hobby The Cold War Warrior English Electric Lightning was rammed full of engines stacked one on top of the other to achieve those legendary point-to-point speeds and time to altitude figures, so avionics had to be squeezed in where it would fit. The Lightning's spine was therefore full of greeblies, as were the sides of the fuselage wherever a little space could be found and utilised, with maintenance notoriously tricky. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. There are twenty seven resin parts inside, with the first step being the removal of the panels that are supplied, namely the aft section of the spine, plus two small panels on the port side, one under the rear of the cockpit aperture, the other below the airbrake. The smaller panels are box boxed in behind with a shell, into which some small detail parts are added, and around the edge, fine resin edges are supplied, with a few spares in case you break or lose some. The spine insert fits into the open top of the fuselage, and is supplied with a nicely moulded spine cowling to pose open. The smaller boxes also have their panels included for placement nearby, to complete the scene. Ground crew were often seen fishing around inside a Lightning, and still are if you visit the Thunder and Lightnings days are Bruntingthorpe. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Dear fellow Britmodellers, may I present my very first Trumpeter aircraft kit! I was pleasantly surprised by its good engineering and fit. Since I'm no expert on the 'Wimpy' I can not comment about scale accuracy; however, it does look like a Wellington to my eyes! The only letdown of the kit are the decals, their colors are totally off. The code letters and serial were replaced by (very old, but still usable) decals from the Matchbox kit. Wing roundels and fin flash from (almost equally old) Techmod decals. Painted with Gunze acrylics, representing a machine of RAF 150.Squadron, operating from Regina airbase in Italy, autumn 1944. The Trumpeter kit offers a bomb bay with basic details and a cover, but no individual doors. Since I wanted to display the bomb bay open, I purchased a CMK resin set, designed for the MPM kit. This does not fit the Trumpeter kit, being considerably shorter. In the end, I only used the resin doors, some of which were badly warped. I tried to straighten them out with heat, but it only worked to a certain degree. Wheels are resin items from Aires/Quickboost. The bomb load was assembled from 250lb resin bombs by CMK. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes. Thanks for your interest, all comments are welcome. Greetings from Vienna!
  3. Hurricane Mk.I Upgrade Sets (for Airfix) 1:48 CMK/Special Hobby The new Airfix Hurricane has been out for a while now, and very nice it is too! If you are looking for a little extra detail however, you can opt for fiddly Photo-Etch (PE), or go down the resin route, which is how CMK have decided to approach things. They have created a number of sets to improve the kit, allowing the modeller to choose how much they want to spend, and which areas they want to improve on. Two of the sets are from their Quick & Easy line, which are straightforward drop-in replacements to kit parts with more detail than the originals. The sets arrive in clamshell boxes, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the rear header card. Cockpit Set (4352) This set isn't a complete replacement for the kit, but improves on what is already there. In preparation you need to cut off the kit control column, the foot rests and some small instruments on the side frames. There is a new replacement instrument panel with printed acetate instrument dials that just require some white paint on the rear, a set of resin foot rests, rudder pedals, control column, seat and instruments on the side framework, plus a new resin compass. Control Surfaces (4353) All the kit control surfaces are separate parts, so you might wonder if there is a need for these upgrades, but on closer inspection, you notice that the detail on the resin parts is much improved over the kit parts, with subtle fabric sag, and the rib tape visible. Included are rudder, elevators and ailerons, all of which are attached to their pour blocks finely along their leading edges and should be easy to remove and clean up. Port Wing Armament Set (4354) Starboard Wing Armament Set (4357) Each kit provides a full set of wing bays with .303 machine guns from the box, but they are a little simplified and the breeches are slightly undersized. This set contains resin parts to complete a more realistic gun bay in the appropriate wing that starts with a single part bay, into which you add the four breeches with ammo feeds, ammo boxes and then the cross-braces to complete the bay. It is offered up to the upper wing, and checking clearance would be very wise before assembly. Of course the panels in the upper wing will need removing, and CMK have thoughtfully provided a full set of replacements to save you from using the rather thick kit parts, which are also full of inconveniently placed ejector pin marks. Look at this pic in the mirror for the starboard set Port Starboard Reserve Fuel Tank Set (4355) This set allows the modeller to depict the fuel tank in front of the cockpit open for maintenance, and requires you to remove that section from the fuselage halves before adding the set. Placed on a flat base, the set includes the tank itself, a bulkhead, another small tank and the very rear of the engine, plus the back of the instrument panel, to which you may wish to add some wires for additional detail. Around the cut-out, you must add a gaggle of tiny D-shaped fastener fixing points, which will be a little tricky, but there are a few spares, so don't worry unduly. The final part is the cowling, which has the captive fasteners sticking out for realism. Main Undercarriage Set (4356) Consisting of twelve resin parts, this replaces the multi-part arrangement that makes up the main gear bays with a single assembly that fits to the bottom of the cockpit floor, and slots neatly into the lower wing recesses once complete. You also get a new in-scale set of gear bay doors to improve the look further. Exhausts - Triple Ejector Type (Q48265) A pair of replacement exhaust stacks for the early Hurricane that has a lot of the subtle construction detail that was missed from the kit parts, as well as shallow exhaust tip. They lack the locating pegs of the kit parts, but fit snugly into the aperture on the sides of the engine cowling. Seat with Harness (Q48266) A straight forward drop-in replacement resin seat for your kit, with moulded in harnesses. Simply cut off the casting block and install on the seat armour instead of the kit part. Review sample courtesy of
  4. RF-84 Thunderflash Upgrades (for TanModel) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby This new(ish) release from Tan Model (review here) has been given the CMK treatment, with a bunch of new resin upgrades that will improve on the kit plastic, adding additional focal points to your model. The two detail sets arrive in a clamshell box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card. The Quick & Easy sets have a card back and a bag containing the parts. Undercarriage Bay Set (4339) Containing three resin parts, you get the two main bays and a deeply recessed and superbly detailed nose gear bay to improve the underside of your model. You will need to thin down the lip on the lower wing from the inside, which is easy to do with a curved blade that is used to scrape excess styrene away. Camera Bay Set (4333) As the main purpose of the RF-84 was recce, this set provides the five cameras and the bay covers to detail the area, with each camera consisting of two parts, and the bays having a fine quilted texture on the inside to represent the heat shielding applied to the hatches, which also have tiny resin hinge-points included. Flap Correction Set (Q48270) There are two replacement flaps in the box, with excellent detail, and according to the instructions they are of the correct angles of the edges. In conjunction with the aileron set below, they should be simple drop-in replacements to the kit parts. Aileron Correction Set (Q48271) In league with the Flap set above, this set corrects the shape of the kit parts, allowing direct replacement, so minimal effort on the modeller's part. They should probably have been put in the one set though, if they are reliant on each other fitting, but as they're not bank-breakingly expensive it's neither here nor there. Review sample courtesy of
  5. CAC Boomerang/Wirraway Wheels 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby With the recent re-release of the Special Hobby Wirraway, reviewed here, it's natural that they should produce these wheels to improve detail for the kit, as well as its stablemate, the Boomerang, which shared the same wheel type. The set arrives in a card backed bag, with the instructions visible in green behind the parts, and everything held together by a single staple near the centre. The main wheels have a block tread and subtle weighting at the bottom, where the pouring block is attached, with the new tail wheel similarly attached, next to the replacement strut that supports it. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Junkers Ju-88A-1/5/c-2/4 & A-4 Wheels 1:48 CMK from Special Hobby With the profusion of new Ju-88 kits coming out in 1:48, together with those already available CMK have issued two sets of wheels in their Quick & Easy range as drop-in replacements to kit parts to speed your build, whilst adding some additional detail. Each set arrives in a card backed bag, with the instructions visible in green behind the parts, and everything held together by a single staple near the centre. Junkers Ju-88A-1/5/c-2/4 Early (Q48273) Containing the main wheels and mudguard-equipped tail wheel for early 88s, all of which have a subtle weighting to the bottom, without overdoing it. The Continental logo and type details are embossed on the sidewalls, with a straight tread running perpendicular to the direction of travel. Casting blocks are on the bottom for the main wheels, while the tail wheel has a series of tubes with flash between then to reduce both the effort and clean-up needed to remove them from their block. Junkers Ju-88A-4 Late (Q48274) Containing the main wheels and mudguard-equipped tail wheel for late 88A-4s, all of which have a subtle weighting to the bottom, without overdoing it. The tyres have raised radial treads, which meet on the contact patch, running perpendicular to the direction of travel. Casting blocks are on the bottom for the main wheels, while the tail wheel has a series of tubes with flash between then to reduce both the effort and clean-up needed to remove them from their block. Yes, these two descriptions are very similar, but with good reason. Review sample courtesy of
  7. British Anti-Submarine Bombs 250lb, 500lb & 600lb 1:48 CMK from Special Hobby We reviewed these chaps in 1:72 last year, and the good folks at Special Hobby have now scaled them up to 1:48 for us quarter-scale modellers. Starting with the tubular 250lb Mk.VIII depth charges, and including the Mk.IV bombs in 500lb and 600lb flavours, which more closely resemble normal iron bombs. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Antisubmarine Bomb 250lb Mk.VIII (4358) Two resin depth charges with separate shackles for attachment to the carrying aircraft. The mould plug is attached via a cruciform gate, which minimises the effort needed to remove it from the block, and minimises clean-up. Antisubmarine Bomb 500lb Mk.IV (4359) Two streamlined bombs with a flat nose and tubular stabilising fin trailing the main body, plus separate shackles. The main pour stub again attaches via a cruciform gate to ease preparation. Antisubmarine Bomb 600lb Mk.IV (4360) The largest of the three, these two bombs have a more angular appearance, but with a domed nose, which requires attachment to the rear where the fins project from the bomb body. Another circular stabilising ring and separate shackles complete the package. Detail is excellent, and the attachment points are well thought out to ease your way, so that construction shouldn't take long at all. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Review sample courtesy of
  8. US Marine with Flamethrower M2A1 – Iwo Jima 1945 1:35 CMK from Special Hobby By 1945 Allied forces were using Flamethrowers to root out the tenacious Japanese soldiers that simply wouldn't surrender, but would fight to the death, inflicting heavy casualties during each Island clearance. The US Marines did much of the drudgery, often being the first in and last out, and used the flamethrower extensively. The original M1 was developed in 1940, and improved until the M2 became prevalent later in the war. Containing only seven seconds worth of flammable napalm, it could project this lethally sticky burning liquid some 40 metres with a good wind behind it, although the wearer was weighed down by over 60lbs/30kg when full. They were also vulnerable targets and a round penetrating their fuel tank must have been their worst nightmare. With the introduction of flamethrower tanks, the man portable packs were withdrawn from service, with many destroyed. A similar design was also used in the Korean War, as well as later in the Vietnam War after more improvements. The set arrives in a clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned within, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card behind. Inside is one figure (our photo shows the rear of the figure too for illustration purposes), separate head and arms, with the leading hand also separate to give flexibility of pose. The propellant bottle (nitrogen), hosing and the gun are all separate parts to add extra detail, and give the modeller the facility to change the pose, using hot water to manipulate the resin hose, or replace it with flexible tubing or wire. CMK's figure sculpting is excellent, and coupled with the ability of resin to depict undercuts in the mould, the cloth, belts and straps all appear very life-like. With careful painting, an impressive figure should be the result. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. MA-1A USAF Start Cart 1:48 CMK via Special Hobby This little cart provides the initial blast of air that begins the spooling up process of a Cold War jet engine. The air from the small turbine inside the cart is ducted through the flexible hose attached and into the aircraft, like blowing a giant windmill! Sat on its four wheels it can be hand-wrangled or towed by a tractor to wherever it is needed, and has been seen in various shades such as green, yellow and white. When not in use the hose is usually draped around the top of the cart, and while in use, the two panels on the top are set to their raised positions. The Kit This is a new resin kit from Special Hobby's resin arm, and arrives in a small yellow box, which is a description that you could also use for the cart itself. Inside are a bag of smaller resin parts, the main body of the cart, a ziplok bag containing decals and a Photo-Etch (PE) brass sheet, and of course a folded A4 sheet of instructions in colour. As you would imagine, it is a simple build, with the main body consisting of one large lump, which just needs its underside trimming flat. The wheels are attached to stub axles and locate in depressions in the base, the towing frame fits under the front, and the arm is then fitted either flat, or raised up out of the way. The opening hatches on the top are folded up to shape, and fixed to the deck as per the diagrams, while the instrument panel is recessed into the rear face, and has a double-sided PE cover that hinges down in use. The hose is supplied in two pieces of resin, which you will need to heat and shape to suit your needs, which is best done with some water out of a recently boiled kettle. Watch your fingers, and remember to pin or tape the parts to shape while they cool off, using cold water to speed the process. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Markings A small sheet of decals are included for the various stencils and corner markers, and the cart is shown painted yellow, although the other colour options could equally be built by checking the few references out there. Decals for the instrument panel are clear, registration, colour density and sharpness are good, with a nice thin carrier film. Conclusion With plenty of scope for beating up the paint-job, this should be a quick and satisfying project that adds both scale and a more candid nature to any Cold War jet model display. An easy build should make it quite appealing to even the resin novice. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Shorts Tucano Cockpit Set, Engine Set, Exterior Set & Control Surfaces CMK/Special Hobby 1:72 Cockpit Set (7358) Special Hobby through their CMK line continue to increase their range of resin enhancement sets for various kits. This set provides a new cockpit tub, Seats, Sidewalls, instrument panels and coamings, with films for the instruments. Engine Set (7357) This set provides a new engine and engine bay to be displayed open, with the engine panels. Also provided are new exhausts, prop spinner, & prop blades Exterior Set (7359) This set provides a new luggage bay, ventral air-brake, and undercarriage doors. Control Surfaces (7356) This set provides all the wing control surfaces, tail surfaces; and a replacement rudder. Review samples courtesy of Conclusion These are great sets, whether you use one or more they will enhance your kit.
  11. Me 163A Komet Interior Set & Control Surfaces CMK/Special Hobby 1:72 Interior Set (7350) Special Hobby through their CMK line continue to increase their range of resin enhancement sets for various kits. This set provides a new cockpit tub, Seat, control column; and instrument panel back in resin. Also included are photo etched details for the instrument panel, rudder pedals, control wheel; and seatbelts. Control Surfaces (7351) This set provides all the wing control surfaces and a replacement rudder. Review samples courtesy of Conclusion These are great sets that will enhance any kit you wish to use them on.
  12. AS-12 Missiles CMK/Special Hobby 1:72 The AS-12 was an air-to-surface wire guided missile developed by Nord Aviation. It was primarily an anti shipping missile designed to be deployed from Helicopters although it was used by fixed wing aircraft. Special Hobby through their CMK line continue to increase their range of resin enhancement sets for various kits. This set provides 2 missiles which as attached to their mounting rails. For each missile there are two exhaust tubes and four fins to attach. The quality of the casting is first rate. Review sample courtesy of Conclusion This is a great set that will enhance any kit you wish to use them on.
  13. Matra F2 (SNEB) Rocket Pods CMK/Special Hobby 1:72 The Matra F2 pod holds 6 x 68mm SNEB rockets. Special Hobby through their CMK line continue to increase their range of resin enhancement sets for various kits. This set provides 4 of the F2 Pods. The POD is one main part with a rear cover as a separate part. The quality of the casting is good with thought being given to how the parts attach to the pour blocks. Review sample courtesy of Conclusion This is a great set that will enhance any kit you wish to use them on.
  14. Mirage F.1 RPL-201 Centreline Tank CMK/Special Hobby 1:72 Special Hobby through their CMK line continue to increase their range of resin enhancement sets for various kits. This set if to provide the option of having a centreline tank for their new Mirage F.1 Kits (also will fit other kits). The main tank is one casting with the two gins as separate parts. The web attaching the tank is thin and on the surface you attach to the model. Review sample courtesy of Conclusion This is a great set that will enhance any of the F.1s available.
  15. CMK

    Typ L3000S Light Truck ICM 1:35 From 1940 onwards the German army, by standardizing and simplifying the numerous types of trucks, tried to improve the procurement of spare parts and facilitate repairs. The result was the standard 3 ton truck, which all German manufacturer snow used as a basis for construction. This was also the basis on which the motor manufacturer in Cologne produced the "V3000S" from 1941 onwards. Various bodies and sets of equipment were available. A typical recognition feature was the oval radiator grille and one-piece windscreen. In total about 25,000 examples were built. The "V 3000 S" came to be used on all fronts in the Second World War and was indispensable for supplying the troops with goods of all kinds. The Model This is an all new tooling, replacing the rather complicated older releases. The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are three sprues of light brown styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the cover rails are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, starter motor, alternator, front engine mounts, cooling fan, air filter, cooling pipes, gear stick and other sundry items. The instructions then move on to the chassis rails with the addition of five cross members and rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye, cover and pin are added. To the top of the main rails the two sub rails are added. The front and rear leaf springs are fitted along with the rear axle and transfer box. Turning the rails over the engine can now be fitted plus the exhaust system, which comprises of seven parts, and looks particularly fragile so it may be an idea to build in situ rather than as a separate assembly the instructions call for. The two driveshafts are then be added, as are the radiator/front chassis end piece. The steering rack assembly is built up using the four parts provided and, if the modeller chooses can be built up so that the front wheels are posable, although this may make it rather fragile, particularly the rear tie rod. After fitting the various brackets and supports as well as the front bumper and tow hooks, it’s onto the wheels, these come as single piece tyres plus inner and outer hubs. There are seven provided, singles for the front, doubles for the rear and a spare which fits on the chassis behind the cab and under the bed The building of the cab begins with filing off the ejection pins marks on the underside of the floor, before fitting the pedals, steering column, steering wheel and handbrake handle. The seat support and cushion is fitted to the floor, whilst the windscreen, instrument panel, with decal instruments, are fitted to the roof/front part of the cab. Onto the rear panel of the cab the seat back and rear screen are attached. The next assembly for the cab is the bonnet, which is made up of left and right hand parts, bonnet and radiator grille. The completed bonnet cannot easily be made to be posed either open, which is a shame. To finish off the front, the mud guards/foot plates are attached along with the doors, which are made of the external panels, door cards, clear parts, and door handles. Last details are the wing mirrors, lights, wipers; grab handles, spade, triangular roof marker, jerry can and its support bracket. The last assembly is the truck bed, with the bed itself being fitted with the side, rear, and front plank sections. On the underside, five lateral strengthening beams, and two longitudinal beams are fitted. The spare wheel is also attached, along with two storage boxes, two three piece Jerry can cages, complete with four piece Jerry can, and the two wheel arch attachment sections. A third storage box and the two wheel arches are then fitted and the assembly is ready to be attached to be attached to the chassis. To complete the build the windscreen wipers, wing mirrors, grab handles, pioneer tools, headlamps, hood ornament and convoy triangle are glued into their respective positions. Decals Apart from the instruments mentioned above, the small decal sheet gives the modeller four options. The decals are nicely printed, clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. The options:- Typ L3000S, Ukraine, Summer 1941, in Panzer Grey overall Typ L3000S, Russia, Summer 1942, in Panzer Grey overall Typ L3000S, North Africa, Summer 1942, in Africa Corp Brown Overall Typ L3000S, Italy, Summer 1944, in Dark Yellow overall with Olive Green stripey blotches. Conclusion This is another great truck kit from ICM and a much easier build than their previous releases. The details straight from the box are still good, and there is plenty of scope to add extra detail, particularly to the engine and the very empty cargo bed. Once built and weathered this truck will make a nice component to a multi-vehicle diorama, or on its own with a bit of imagination and some figures, one or two of which would have been nice to have been included in the kit. There doesn’t appear to be anything that would trouble anyone other than complete beginners, so I can quite happily recommend this nice and quite interesting truck. Review sample courtesy of
  16. CMK(?) is to to release a 1/48th MA-1A USAF start cart (generating high velocity air for starting an aircraft jet engine) resin kit - ref. 8054 Source: http://www.specialhobby.net/2017/01/8054-ma-1a-usaf-start-cart-148.html 3D renders V.P.
  17. German WWII Anti-Tank Rifle Solothurn S18/1000 with carriage 1:35 CMK by Special Hobby After WWI, Germany was forbidden from manufacturing certain arms on German soil, so Rheinmetall used their Swiss company Solothurn to circumvent this. This 20mm anti-tank rifle was hardly portable, and suffered from high recoil, which made it difficult to use, but was used by the Germans, Italy and China in small quantities, with a wheeled carriage improving its mobility, but making it quite a bulky proposition for its crew. It had a small bipod at the front, with a monopod supporting the weight of the buttstock, relieving the strain on its operator, and could be set up with either a bulky magazine, or as a belt-fed weapon, with a number of different cartridges used that required changes of the brake to cope with the change in recoil pattern. Everything about it was large, including the recoil, and it weighed in at over 100lbs without ammunition, so the trolley was a must for anything more than a short walk. The cartridge is wound out by a handle on the side of the breech, which takes three turns, so a quick rate of fire must have been very tricky, although it could penetrate the armour of a T-34 with a well-placed shot. It was of the bullpup design, with the trigger forward of the breech to make it more "compact", which at a shade over 69" or 1.7m would appear to have been relative. This set from CMK gives you the option of having one of these unusual weapons in your arsenal, or salted away in a diorama. It is a resin kit, and comes in a small vacformed shell with the instructions and header card forming the rear. Inside are twenty three parts in a pale grey resin, some of which are quite delicate, such as the curved legs on each side. Construction is simple after removing the parts from their pouring blocks and cleaning them up, based upon a T-shaped chassis with the wheels at the two open ends of the T. A mount is added to the remaining leg of the T, and the weapon is placed on top, with optional optical scope and magazine. Alternatively, you can build it with its legs down off the carriage by constructing the bipod/tripod legs in the down position. The trolley can be fitted with a pair of tapering boxes of additional ammo, which fit either side of the weapon on the axle. As you can see, the casting is excellent, and the attention to detail, coupled with the tiny contact patches between the parts and their pouring blocks should make for a trouble-free build. The pic below has been lifted from CMK's site to show you what the finished rifle looks like without you having to resort to Google: It's a shame it didn't come with crew to round out its potential, but nonetheless it makes an interesting and unusual item for your collection, and it won't take you months to complete it, unless it's part of a larger build. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Source: http://www.specialhobby.info/2016/12/cmk-sets-for-172-short-tucano-t1-172.html V.P.
  19. E E Lightning Detail Sets (for Airfix 1:48) CMK by Special Hobby There are a lot of Britmodellers who must have a soft-spot for the English Electric Lightning, and if you model in 1:48, the Airfix kit is the way to go, as it is perhaps the best of that era from the pre-Hornby days. Two versions are available, and each have been reissued on more than one occasion, so you can choose from the F.2A/F.6 or the F.1/F.1A/F.2/F.3 boxing, or get the both like I've done. Along come Special Hobby, perhaps spurred on by the recent Eduard boxing, with a spread of aftermarket resin sets for both kitted versions. Each set arrives in a clamshell box suitable for their shape and size, with the resin parts cocooned inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the plastic and the card header. Some sets are specific to each kit, while others are suitable for both, such is their common subject matter. Airbrakes Set (4343) All Variants This is the most simple of the sets, containing just eight pieces of resin, two of which are spares in case you lose any of the brake jacks. The instructions show which part of the fuselage skin you need to cut away to allow you to fit the single part bays from the inside. These have a small amount of wiring moulded in, and a mounting point for the base of the actuating piston. The other end fits into the hinge-point on the brake itself, and that as they say, is that. Colour call-outs are made throughout the short instruction booklet using names and Humbrol colours for reference. Front Undercarriage Bay (4344) All Variants Although this set is designated as the nose gear bay, it also includes the distinctive nose cone and intake bullet that is seen at the centre of the intake. This replaces the kit parts, with the radome a separate part from the bullet, which also houses the detailed gear bay. A small probe is added under the radome with a stator vane added to the top, and this is then sandwiched within the kit trunking. And after the fuselage is completed, the three resin gear bay doors are glued into place on their hinges. Again, colour call-outs are in Humbrol codes. Main Undercarriage Bays (4345) All Variants The Lightning's wings are very thin, and the gear bays are too, which leaves little room to cram in the detail. The instructions suggest thinning the upper wing as much as possible in an area marked out in a separate diagram, which will ease the job substantially. The main parts have been moulded with the casting lug at the side, so that thinning the roof of the bay shouldn't be necessary, but as it is reasonably thick, some thinning can be done if required. The same process is done to the lower wing to give a realistically thin edge and accommodate the bay walls, so there will be lots of scraping and sanding done before fitting. With the bays in place, the three-part bay doors can be added, and detail throughout is superb, from the hosing within the bays to the shape of the doors, making a substantial improvement to the area that is well worth the effort. Control Surfaces (4346) F1/F1A/F2/F3 A full set of resin flying surfaces for the Lightning, including ailerons, flaps and rudder, for which you will need to remove the areas on the kit wings, as shown in the first step of the instructions. As well as removing the need to reform the kit parts' leading edges, the resin parts allow you to take the easiest and most destructive way of removing the areas of the kit wings, without worrying about damaging the surfaces in the process. Bring on the Dremel! Control Surfaces (4349) F2A/F6 This set is as per the one above, but has the simple ailerons that were used in these marks, with the same rudder and flap sections. Cockpit Set (4347) F1/F1A Comprising a complete replacement cockpit tub for the early Lightning, it also includes a new seat; coaming; side wall inserts; rear deck and new side consoles, plus a sheet of printed acetate for the instrument panels, which will need painting white on the rear. The seat has moulded in straps, and a separate resin ejection lever for the headbox. The control column is also included along with a couple of smaller instrument panels that are festooned around the main one. Detail is good throughout, although the resin panel seems a little soft (as opposed to sharp) on my sample. Cockpit Set (4350) F2/F2A/F3/F6 This set is broadly similar to the one above, but has a different instrument layout moulded into the sides of the tub, and comes with four alternative main panels depending on which variant you are modelling, with a larger sheet of acetate that has all of the instruments printed out to add behind. The seat, coaming, side walls and rear deck are of course the same in both sets. Engine Set (4348) F2A/F6 This five piece set comes in a larger box because of its size. It depicts the topmost Number 2 engine of the double-stack, and allows the display of the large panel that hinges open in the mid-fuselage to expose the Rolls-Royce Avon engine. A tray sits at the bottom of the cut-out and supports the engine, with a pair of bulkheads either end. This isn't strictly-speaking accurate, as the bay floor isn't flat, but due to the cramped nature of the fuselage interior, it won't really notice, and if it bothers you there are some great photos out there on the 'net to allow you to add any extra bits that are vaguely seen down the sides. With a little extra wiring etc. around the place and perhaps the V-shaped stay, the highly detailed engine and scale-thickness fuselage panel will look striking with some sympathetic painting. Conclusion Wow! That's a lot of resin, and you can of course pick and choose what you want to use from all those sets. As usual, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Highly recommended, and available soon. Review sample courtesy of
  20. NEW PROJECT!! I have been collecting detail sets for Revell's Mi-24 Hind for quite some time now, but could not decide on a scheme, let alone starting this beast! It is know for being the most accurate Hind in 1/48 - the only one available- Minihobby/Trumpeter did one many years ago, but it is said to be more or less the same kit as this one. The kit should represent an early Hind D reasonably well out of the box, with problem areas being the tail which is said to be too short. additionally Mil, the original designer of this Russian helicopter decided to counter the rotor rotatory moment in part in a very novell/ peculiar way in tilting the whole fuselage aft of the cockpit section 2.5° to the right. On the ground a Mi-24 always seems to be leaning to one side!! of course the kit does not represent this asymmetry at all, but is perfectly straight ! lets see how to correct this! so, here you can see all the assortment of AM kits and the kit itself some time ago in the sun: I acquired the Pavla cockpit set at an airshow in Slovakia about 3 years ago, falling in love with the helicopter display there, still without the kit itself...! detail is quite nice and a real improvement on the kit. CMK detail/ upgrade set to make a more modern Mi-24 V that is more commonly used nowadays in Europe. this comprehensive set is made especially for the Minihobby / Trumpeter kit, so maybe some adjustment will be necessary. For me it was better value than the other, seperately sold sets for Revelll/ Monogram's kit. It consists if new wing pylons with new camera fairing, nice, detailed pylons, a pair of external fuel tanks, bulged wheels, flare dispensers and other detail like laser/ RF targeting devices especially for this version. finally I got this rotor head and rotor correction from ruporator / ebay. He designs, makes and sells mainly 1/32 and 1/35 full resin kits (Su-7, Su-17, Su-22, Mi-8 weapons,...) and this nice one here: contains correctly shaped rotor blades, and a new rotor head. reinforced with metal inserts! uncleaned blade detail: all my treasures together before starting: it is NOT a small kit at all!
  21. Hello and thanks for your interest, this is my 1/72 Hasegawa B-24J, representing "The Shack" of 458th Bomb Group, 754th Squadron. The model was built using aftermarket parts from Eduard, CMK, Aires, True Details, Scale Aircraft Conversions and Decals from Sky Models Italy. This beast fought me for over 18 months. Most work went into the paint job. It was painted with Alclad lacquers, which require a perfectly smooth surface preparation. Due to the massive weight (90g) I chose to use metal landing gear from Scale Aircraft Conversions. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes. ... and here is how it all started.... lots of aftermarket items, lots of motivation and optimism! Cockpit interior: Interior detailling underway: Fuselage halves before closing up: Cockpit again: A lot of weight went into the foward area of the fuselage to prevent a tail-sitter: Model primed Gloss Black (Tamiya14) in preparation for Alclad paints: Paint issues all along the way, of course all my own fault: Making the mask for the code letter "E": Final bits and pieces.... Glad I finished this, even if it took some time and a lot of Patience. But have a look here - there's already a "roll-out" queue on my workbench: Thanks for lookin'. See you next time! Best wishes from Vienna Roman
  22. Skoda 305mm Siege Howitzer CMK 1:35 History The Škoda 30.5 cm Mörser M.11 was a siege howitzer produced by Škoda Works and used by the Austro-Hungarian Army during World War I and by Nazi Germany in World War II. Development began in 1906, when a development contract was placed by the Austro-Hungarian high command with Skoda-Werke in Pilsen to develop a weapon capable of penetrating the concrete fortresses being built in Belgium and Italy. Development work continued until 1909, when the first prototype was finished and, in 1910, fired secretly in Hungary. The weapon was able to penetrate 2 m (6 ft 7 in) of reinforced concrete with its special armour-piercing shell, which weighed 384 kg (847 lb). There were a few technical problems with the first piece, but, after few reconstructions in 1911, the upgraded piece made another round of testing in Felixdorf and in the mountains of Tyrol. After that, Moritz von Auffenberg, the Minister of War, placed an order for 24 of the new weapons The weapon was transported in three sections by a 100-horsepower 15 ton Austro-Daimler road tractor M. 12. It broke down into barrel, carriage and firing platform loads, each of which had its own trailer. It could be assembled and readied to fire in around 50 minutes. The mortar could fire two types of shell, a heavy armour-piercing shell with a delayed action fuse weighing 384 kg, and a lighter 287 kg shell fitted with an impact fuze. The light shell was capable of creating a crater 8 meters wide and 8 meters deep, as well as killing exposed infantry up to 400 m (440 yd) away. The weapon required a crew of 15–17, and could fire 10 to 12 rounds an hour. After firing, it automatically returned to the horizontal loading position. In 1916, the M. 11 design was upgraded and the new M.11/16 was produced - the difference was mainly that the firing platform had been modified to allow for a traverse of 360 degrees. Also in 1916, a new model was released, the M.16, which had longer barrel (L/12) and longer range 12,300 metres (13,500 yd) The Model The kit comes in quite a small, yet deep box with a rendering of the mortar on the front. Inside it is packed with resin parts in a number of poly bags. According to the instruction leaflet there are one hundred and six parts moulded in a greeny grey resin, with the exception of one part which is moulded in dark grey resin. The way they have been moulded onto the blocks you will need to take great care in cutting them off and there will be quite a bit of cleaning up required. The parts are well produced with some great detail including the big bolt heads found on weapons of this era. Read the instructions carefully as there are alternative parts depending on whether you build an early or late version. Construction begins with the very sturdy base unit, onto which the towing beams, forward mounted box top which is fitted with a pair of large brackets onto which four eyebolts are attached. The large turntable is slotted into the base recess and the shell chute base attached to the rear of the base. The build then moves onto the mortar itself with the assembly of the two small recuperators glued to the underside of the trunnion cradle, onto which the two trunnion gears are affixed. The elevation gears are glued to their shaft and the tow assemblies put to one side. The two large recuperators, made up form eight parts are built up, followed by the trunnion section of the barrel. This is fitted with a variety of longitudinal and cross beams top and bottom, an eye plate and four large bolt heads. The middle section, either bolted or smooth is then attached to the trunnion section, followed by the muzzle section, and the optional muzzle cap. The breech section is built up from four parts and can be positioned either open or closed, and finished off with the rear mounted breech plate and recuperator end fittings. The large and small recuperators are then attached to the rear of the barrel section, followed by the breech section. The two impressively moulded trunnion mounts are detailed with a selection of small parts before being fitted to each side of the barrel. Between the mounts the elevation cog assembly is also fitted and closed off with a curved front plate. The barrel/mounting is then fitted to the turntable on the base. The mortar is fitted with a small splinter shield which comes in two parts whilst the main elevation wheel is made up from nine parts. The seven piece training unit is also assembled at this point, whilst the mounting points of it and the “range computer”, and sights are fitted to the left side trunnion mount followed by the units themselves. The complex shell handling system is assembled from seventeen parts, and if done so carefully, should be able to move, allowing the shell, included, to be positioned at any point in the loading process. This assembly is then glued to the rear of the mounting, followed by two rails onto which the shell trolley can run to move the shell onto the loading cradle. The trolley is provided and is made up from eight parts and once assembled can be fitted to the rails finishing the build. Conclusion There have been a few big mortars released in the last year or so, but injection moulded, so it interesting to see CMK release this one. Not that it’s not welcome and is in fact more detailed than the similar marque of weapon released by Takom. Certainly not one for the novice, it will make a superb addition to any collection of big guns. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  23. Type IX U-Boat Conversion Set 1:72 CMK This is the second of two sets to be released by CMK for use with the Revell Type IXc U-Boat. Rather than just another weapon set, this contains parts to backdate the kit to a time when the Type IX’s were armed with a single 105mm cannon and a quad 20mm Flak Vierling. As with the previous set, each mounting is made from grey resin, twenty parts for the 105mm and thirty one parts for the quad 20mm mount, the gun barrels themselves are, once again, made of turned brass, which really does help with the look. There is also a sheet of etch brass that provides items such as the hand wheels and support brackets. N72020 – The build begins with the 105mm cannon with the pedestal fitted to the deck mounting plate, followed by the three piece breech section and the metal barrel. The sight fixture and ballistic controls are then attached to the upper breech section, whilst the locking jack is fitted between the underside of the breech section and the inner pedestal, this can be left off if you are using the gun crew in a diorama display. The port and starboard hand controls are attached and fitted with the PE hand wheels. Lastly the port and starboard gun crew rests and their respective supports are fitted. The quad 20mm Flak Vierling build also begins with the deck plate, spare ammunition cartridge storage racks and central pedestal. The centrally positioned controls are fitted to the rear of the pedestal, along with the seat supports and seats. Each side of the mounting is made up of the rotating part, two gun breeches, two metal barrels and two ammunition cartridges. When both are assembled they are fitted to their respective sides of the pedestal, followed by the spare cartridges in their racks and the foot pedals used for firing. The three piece gun shield is then attached and strengthened with a piece of 0.4mm wire that the modeller has to provide. Conclusion This set should give the Revell Type IXc kit a real boost, as any submarine modeller will need to have at least two to build an early and late marquee. As usual the moulding quality is superb, and what flash there si si really fined and will mostly come off without use of a blade. Once assembled and painted they will really look good on the completed submarine. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  24. Type IX U-Boat Weapons Set 1:72 CMK Having released a selection of U-Boat interiors for the Revell Type IX U-Boat, CMK have now released a pair of weapons sets. The first of these is to replace the kit weapons and consists of two twin 20mm cannon and a single 37mm cannon. Each mounting is made from grey resin, eight parts for the 37mm and ten parts for each 20mm mount, but, unlike some other sets, the gun barrels themselves are made of turned brass, which is an excellent move in my view. There is also a sheet of etch brass that provides items such as the hand wheels and support brackets, plus a micro saw to cut the resin parts from their moulding blocks.. N72018 – Each mounting is made up from multiple parts and in this scale, some of them are really rather small. The single 37mm cannon construction begins with the assembly of the mounting, where the base fixing is fitted with the pedestal, which, in turn, is fitted with the seat support structure, training hand wheel on the port side, and the two seat mounts. The starboard side is fitted with a second control beam with another training hand wheel and an elevation hand wheel. The trunnion mount is then fitted to the top of the pedestal, followed by the trunnion cover and two sights. The cannon is made up from a resin breech section, into which the brass barrel is fitted. The breech is then fitted with the ammunition chute and expended cartridges chute. The completed cannon assembly is then fitted to the trunnion mount and finished off with the attachment of the gun shield. With the two 20mm cannon mounts, assembly begins with the twin breech section being fitted with the brass barrels, ammunition cartridges, expended cartridge bag, shoulder harness, trunnion and a PE fitting to the starboard gun. The single piece pedestal is fitted with the training hand wheel and spare cartridge cradle, complete with spare cartridges. The cannon mounting is fitted with the counter weight assembly before the gun assembly is attached and the whole lot fitted to the pedestal. Conclusion It’s great to see CMK releasing more items for the Type IX U-Boat, and these weapons are so much more detailed than the kit parts they really are a must have for the serious modeller. Very highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  25. G'day folks, Well my first official Britmodeller GB. Lets see how I go. This is the Academy kit and CMK resin conversion I'll be using to build the kit from. the machine itself was used during Operation Gothic Serpent which of course was made famous in the film adaptation 'Blackhawk Down'. Love the box art from the Academy kit while the CMK photo looks quite imposing...ooooohhhhhh aaaaahhh. First job is to chain drill the frame out for the forward and rear doors. Made easier by mounting the Dremel in its drill vise and plunging away. The right side rear door is already a separate part so I've filled in the hinge recesses with some Tamiya basic putty. I've run some Tamiya thin glue around the inside of the openings to knock back the rough edges of the plastic. Voilá...result The interior is coming together however I wasn't quite sure about the overheard support that runs between the mid bulkhead and rear wall. The transmission is moulded into the kit part however if glued in place a gaping void will result in the interior. I've used some ten though card to fill the gap. I'll add a few bits of plastic to busy it up a bit. The stand alone part. That's it for the moment. Back soon with some more. Cheers, Mick