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Found 18 results

  1. I built this a couple of years ago, number three in my list of Cromwells and Centaurs. It's basically the Tamiya Centaur kit with a few modifications, most notable being the substitution of Tamiya Cromwell wheels for the Centaur perforated tyres. I rebuilt a lot of the rear of the tank. The rear of the air box had a first aid box moulded onto it, but I was fairly sure that this tanks didn't have one. I could have just cut it off and filled the resulting hole, but I like to do things the hard way. So I made a new rear for the air box from thick card and detailed it with bolt heads from Calibre 35. I also replaced the rear track guards with ones from Aber. Many Cromwells had parts if not all of the sand shields ripped away, so I replicated this using the kit parts but thinned down by scraping with a blade. I used the Normandy Cowl from the kit, but replaced the sides with ones made from thin card. The lids on the stowage bins were replaced with ones made from thin pewter sheet. Stowage was a combination of Accurate Armour and Black Dog and the etched brass was curtesy of Aber. The base colour was sprayed on using Tamiya paints for the SCC15 and the disruptive cammo pattern was brush painted on with Vallejo acrylics. The tank that I was depicting belonged to the Czech Independent Armoured Brigade and this unit spent most of it's time after D Day keeping the German garrison in Ostend penned in, and the 95mm howitzers of the Mk.Vl's were used to shell the port. The decals I used were the rub down variety from SKP. The 95mm shell boxes came from Accurate Armour and the empty cardboard shell tubes I made from plastic tube. The figures are Miniart with Hornet heads. The base was built up using balsa wood onto a photo frame from Wilkinsons. Thanks for looking. John.
  2. Finished today - lovely kit. Painted with Tamiya acrylics, weathered with Oils, Oilbrushers and Pigments Peter
  3. These look really good, but BH! the price of them. $25 for the track pads, $25 for the end connectors and then $15 to ship worldwide. That's the cost of the kit in the first place. Don't think that I'll be ordering any of these any day soon. John.
  4. If you've followed this in WIP, then you'll be aware of the background to this build/upgrade, but if you haven't then briefly, I originally built this Tamiya Cromwell around 11-12 years ago as a first 1/35th build. A couple of years ago, I revisited the build and stripped it down as far as I could and then rebuilt it as a later model Mk.lVf. So this was the starting point.............. .................and this is what I ended up with. BTW. Sorry about the 1/1 scale cobwebs!! John.
  5. This will be the fourth wip that I've got on the go at the moment. The first I'm still waiting for the enthusiasm to show it's face, the second is well advanced and the third is on hold while I'm waiting for some AM parts to arrive. So therefore I thought I'd resurrect this one. This is actually the first 1/35th scale armour model that I built around 12 years ago. It was built as an experiment to see if I liked this scale, and it worked. But as can be seen, my skills were very basic then. So several years later, I decided to have another go at it. To start with, I was just going to spruce it up a bit, but after some research, I thought that I'd enjoy the project if I did some extra work on it and turned it into another mark. The kit is a bit of a mixture. The decals supplied in the kit are for what I think is a Mk.lV with a D hull, but the kits hull is for an earlier B or C. This is defined by the engine deck hatches. So the mark I chose to rebuild it into is the MklVf. Apart from the changes to the engine deck, the drivers escape hatch needed to be rebuilt and there were some alterations to be done with the turret. So, this was the starting point. To be completely accurate for a MklVf, the double tow rope should be wound around a couple of brackets on the glacis plate, but in the original build I glued the camnet in place and it was going to cause too much damage to remove it, so hey ho! nothings perfect John.
  6. I built tis model a few years ago after having the kit sit in my stash for a few more yeas prior to that. The kit was labelled as being Italeri, but in reality, it was originally released under the Zvezda brand. Because of it's ancestry, the detail wasn't as crisp as say, an offering from Miniart, but with a bit of work and a sheet of Eduard etched brass, a reasonable could be produced. The load in the back is from a set by Miniart, and consists of some 85mm ammunition boxes along with an oil drum from Tamiya. The markings on the boxes are decals which are included in the kit. Russian trucks were painted in a colour known as ZK, which is a lighter shade of green than the armour colour 4BO. I used Tamiya NATO Green. The decals weren't much use so most of the markings were hand painted with oils, the exceptions being the circle on the tail gate and the red stars on the doors. The beam on the lower rear was painted white to help drivers keep station whilst in convoy at night. The figure came with the kit and I adapted him to appear that he was working on the engine. Miniart Russian truck kits are sharper moulded, but this is still a worthwhile kit to build. John.
  7. This is the new Tamiya AMX-13 French Light Tank. The model was built straight out of the box, the only additions were the aerials. Painted with Tamiya paints, weathered with a Flory wash and a Tamiya weathering set. Thanks for looking. Here is the link for the WIP
  8. I built this a couple of years ago for a magazine article to mark the centenary of the outbreak of WW1. It's the Roden kit of the 1914 Pattern a/c. Not bad, but as I was constrained by time, I had to build it virtually OOTB, and if I was to do it again, I would change a few items, namely the poorly moulded Vickers gun and the headlights and searchlight. Roden do supply etched brass for the wheel spokes so that problem is taken away. I finished it using Tamiya acrylics and I tried to match it to the box art. An article that I'd read on these a/c's said that they were painted in "Service Green" or "Daimler Olive Green" which apparently is a bit darker then the tone that I have used, but with fading, who knows? One thing that was pointed out to me was that the two small roundels on the bonnet shouldn't be there and that there should be a large roundel on the turret roof. Thanks for looking. Regards, John.
  9. IMA have got a load of British "goodies" on their website including the A30 Challenger and Avenger along with several armoured cars and light tanks. They also have the 15.5" tracks and drive sprockets as a separate item. John.
  10. Sturmgeschutz III ausf. G. 1/35th Dragon Imperial Series. My first (successful) 'Down and dirty' AFV, with heavily weathered winter camo, wear and tear, and a little bit of battle damage. A loyal fan of Tamiya between 1975-1980 and sticking with them upon my return to modelling just over a year ago, I have been made aware of the rise in popularity of Dragon kits. So whilst visiting my LHS, I was tempted to give Dragon's 'Imperial Series' StuG III a go. I wasn't to know that the kit had been sitting on the shelf for 21 years and wasn't a patch on Tamiya. Perhaps I should have guessed. The shelf was so high it took a step ladder to reach. Never mind, I thought, it can't be THAT bad. Well, it wasn't GOOD. The kit had many fit issues, badly designed moulds, parts with locating pins that didn't align with the locating holes in adjacent parts, one part that was clearly designed with an angle in it when it should have been straight, drive wheels where the teeth on one 'rim' are spaced very slightly differently to those on the other 'rim' so that the teeth go out of synch and the tracks end up at a slant' and the same issue with the spokes on the idler wheels, an unhelpful and vague instruction sheet, and sprues which quite frankly confused the hell out of me, with 3 'B' sprues (Two identical, but the third different!) and several sprues which had TWO letter designations! Another annoying feature or should I say non-feature, was the lack of any figures. Still, there was no problem that I couldn't overcome, even with my limited skills. I even managed to the upgrade the 'debris screens' on the rear air intakes, cutting out the solid 'grills', retaining the frames and fitting sections of gauze obtained from a local Haberdashers. Apart from the debris screens, the StuG is OOB and painted using Tamiya Acrylics, Humbrol Enamels, Humbrol Weathering Powders, and Winsor and Newton's water mixable Titanium White Oil Paint. Gloss and matt varnishes were also from Winsor and Newton. Snow effect achieved with my Japanese 'Grit Paint' White. Exposed metal effect/burnishing achieved with a graphite stick. For WIP, here's the link: This StuG will feature in a diorama which will be based loosely on a Francois Verlinden diorama that I saw in a Tamiya catalogue some 35 or more years ago. Only mine will be set in winter, not summer, in the Ardennnes during the Battle of the Bulge. Meanwhile, I have just commenced building Tamiya's StuG IV Sd.Kfz.163, which already looks to be faultless. Anyhoo, here's the pics. Below: Top and bottom halves not fixed, hence gap in front armour plate. (I will need access to fix a figure inside, just visible through the open hatch) Yep, forgot to matt the spare wheels and I can see MG needs tidying up. Thanks Macro. Cat hair on spare wheel replicated using real cat hair. TFL All comments, positive or negative, welcomed. Rearguards, Badder
  11. So, I finally got round to starting this GB. Although I've completed 3 dios in the past year I've not taken part in a GB before, so a vignette is a good starting point. Leaving things a bit late, I plumped for something small and quick, that being the motorcycle in the title. It comes with a total of 4 figures, so that made complying to the rules easy, although I may not use all of them. With such a small vehicle, I am left with more room for 'scenery' and have opted for making a tree or two, using my 'fishing line' method. This method was 'invented' in my 'Carry on Regardless' WIP, in the diorama section, but I've since improved it and will show the method here also when I get to that stage. In the meantime, I have purchased a suitable base, from Hobbycraft at less than 2 quid. It's a deep box frame and I've replaced the glass with a thick 6x6inch photo-frame backing to ensure a nice solid/stiff base to work on. Unfortunately, I've photographed the whole thing upside down, so what you see below is the rear/bottom of the box frame. I am intending to do a 'frosty or scattering of snow' scene, where the trees are still in their late Autumn colours. I may make a section of wall/building as well, and hopefully there'll be a bit of humour somewhere. Anyway, work on the bike has been rapid. Stupidly, I have erased some of the WIP photos and only have the following left. Side-car dry fitted. I airbrushed the whole lot Field Grey and used blu-tac as a mask around the tyre prior to spraying it black. TFL Badder
  12. Working on my 'Carry on regardless' diorama, I again attempted to make realistic trees. Whilst I had some success with trees in my previous diorama, Lost in France, the trees portrayed were definitely in their 'Autumn clothing', that being, in a state of undress. This was because it was simply too time consuming to place individual leaves on the twigs. Instead I settled on 'scattering' the leaves over armatures coated in PVA. The resulting hedgerows received many positive comments, but I know I'd 'chickened out', portraying an Autumn scene rather than Summer. This time, I was determined to show trees in their Summer clothing. In the WIP I experimented with various methods of construction, but all based on the idea of using nylon monofilament fishing line as 'armatures' for the foliage. Gradually, I narrowed down the,best method for producing REALISTIC trees in the shortest time. (for the given materials) So, here's how I made these: [/url] Material required: Several twigs, suitably 'twiggy'. Garden twine with a wire core, or any narrow gauge wire. Basil, or mixed herbs. PVA glue. CA glue. Nylon Monofilament Fishing Line. I used 6lb breaking strain Maxima. Braided Fishing Line (optional. I used 6lb breaking strain Drennan Feeder Line) Acrylic Varnishes (matt or gloss) First, select two or three suitably twiggy twigs and bind them together at their 'trunk end' using twine, or wire. I played mix and match with several twigs until I found a set which made a pleasing armature. I also added finer twigs cut from a different species of plant, just to fill out the spaces. Now, to the 'leafing' of the tree. Here, I will be demonstrating the method using Nylon Monofilament, but the process is the same for Braided line. Braided line is softer, limper, more absorbent and pre-coloured (usually pale or dark green) Wrapping the line around my index and middle fingers 20 times, I formed a loop made up of , yes, 20 loops. I then took another piece of line and using a blood knot, trapped the loops of line together. I repeated this process, forming a 2nd bunch of loops and tied both together using another length of line and another blood knot (more bunches of loops can be added to achieve an even bushier look) I pulled and teased the loops into position so that ALL the blood knots were grouped together. See below. I then applied CA to the knots to fix them permanently. (Optional) Using scissors I then snipped through the loops at points roughly opposite the blood knots, By cutting INDIVIDUAL bits of line at slightly different points, I was able to introduce variations in length. See below. Next, I placed blobs of CA on a plastic sheet, and dragged the 'twigs' through them to coat them almost fully. Then I dragged the CA'd twigs through piles of Basil. Looping my garden twine around the central area with the blood knots, I twisted this around itself, trapping the 'foliage' and forming a branch. Wire would also be suitable. In the pic below, the twine can be seen coming down from the top left corner. Finally, I poked the twine down through the twigs of the tree and wrapped the end around the trunk and fixed with more CA. The twine around the trunk can then be hidden, either with putty or a covering with 'ivy' or the whole trunk can be hidden behind undergrowth. It takes only a couple of minutes to make two sets of loops, and a few minutes more to form the finished branch. (if you don't mind getting CA all over your fingers) I timed the making of one full tree from start to finish and it can be done in less than two hours. PS. I have deliberately left the rearmost parts of these tree less branchy, otherwise they would overhang the back of the diorama by too much, risking damage. I hope someone will find this 'how to' helpful, and if anyone uses this method and can improve on it, I would love to see your results, TFL, Rearguards, Badder
  13. I am very, very, excited to have received my Nashorn, courtesy of Yuki Hirota, Japan. Oh and Amazon. In fact I'm so excited that I just have to post pic of the box in the WIP section, when I have no intention of starting the build for a while. But then, maybe I won't be able to resist. Of course, I've had a peek inside and everything is in order. I was surprised to read on the box that the gun uses metal parts for authentic movement, and then disappointed to find that this consisted of a length of wire cable used for disengaging the gun's travel lock and two metal rods for the gun's hydraulic damping system.. I expect Eduard Photo-etch floor panels and ammo boxes to arrive in the next day or two, which amounts to the minimum 'upgrade'. The full photo-etch kit is a penny short of 50 quid, nearly 50 percent more costly than the Nashorn itself! Anyway, this beauty will end up in a winter woodland scene, either in Russia, or in the Ardennes. I have yet to research the theatres in which the Nashorn was deployed. [/url] I won't post on this topic again until I start the work, so if you check the 'last poster' and it ISN'T me, then you can save yourself some time and not bother to view. Rearguards, Badder Update.... PE arrived. Kit instructions suggest that Nashorns were deployed in Italy and on the Eastern front, the surviving few banded together to form one battalion during the final months of the war, but where they were deployed then, it does not say.
  14. Just saw this, must say that it looks very nice. Cheers Dan
  15. I am currently in the process of making a Mark II Universal Carrier (Forced Reconnaissance) Tamiya, 1/35th and as I am coming towards the end (vehicle wise - but not the figures) I am now considering the scenario for the diorama. I like the fact that these numerous workhorses were small, light, fast and manoeuvrable, so I want to depict this in the diorama. I have therefore decided to show the carrier charging across rough terrain, through bushes, splashing through puddles, ploughing through mud and possibly going airborne! With this in mind, I cannot fully finish the painting of the carrier just yet. I have muddied it up to the minimum level of dirtiness required, but I will add wet muddiness once the scenario is fully visualised. Please be aware that the diorama will take me a while to make as I will be trying out various methods of making splashes, muddy water, bow waves and general wettery before I actually start on the groundwork. I will also be having my first ever go at modelling grassy banks/fields using my bodged-up STATIC GRASS APPLICATOR. There are videos online showing how to make this particular one, based on an 'Electronic Bug Zapper'. I have trialled it but it wasn't working brilliantly... saying that I have now received tips from BM members and expect it to work better in future. P.s I have received several shocks and believe me they were 5 times greater than those given by normal electric cattle fences. They HURT, jolting my entire body! Poor flies, is all I can say. That's it for now. I will return to working on the carrier. I expect to commence work on the diorama by next weekend. Thanks for looking, Badder.
  16. Finished today, a really nice kit, that goes together very nicely, only thing to watch is the rear drive sprockets which needed a little work. Painted with Ammo IDF Sand Grey, and Alclad Steel for the tracks, then weathered with Pigments and Oils Peter
  17. Panther Ausf D. 24th Panzer Regt, 4th Coy, Late August 1944 Dragon 1/35th Premium kit, Fruimetal Tracks, Panzer Ace Spare Wheels and Aber Antenna. Build thread available here Painted with Model Air, Gunze. Weathered with Ak, Mig and Pigments Peter
  18. This is a "what if" project converting a vinyl M.a.K walker into a Wermacht Gun Carrier. The bits and pieces were all from the spares box and the main cost was the primer paint. .