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tbell

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tbell last won the day on January 10 2013

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About tbell

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    Guelph, Ontario, Canada

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  1. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    Thanks. For the SCC15 I used Mike Starmer’s recipe and mixed 5 parts Tamiya XF81 RAF Dark Green with 1 part XF85 Olive Green and 1 parts XF71 Cockpit Green. I added some XF49 Khaki to lighten it up a bit, plus some X22 clear to make it more durable and to give it a bit of a sheen. The SCC14 is simply XF69 NATO Black.
  2. Nice looking Spit! I have a couple Eduard kits in the stash and I really must get going on one these days. One thing you may wish to bear in mind if you decide to do another one is that the propeller blades were actually made of wood with a brass leading edge, so aluminum chipping would not be strictly accurate.
  3. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    To be clear, I was being facetious about the wood drive shafts! I was playing along with Badder's comment re. the toothpick I used to hold the engine... It's a nice kit, albeit somewhat like a short run. IBG's recent Scammell is considerably more refined (minor accuracy issues notwithstanding)
  4. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    Nah, that was sarcasm (which we all know always comes across so well on the interwebs...)
  5. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    I replaced the kit styrene windows with acetate from an office supplies store, cut on my Silhouette Portrait electronic cutter to depict them rolled down.
  6. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    Bedford made their lorry drive shafts from wood in an effort to conserve strategic materials for combat vehicles. True story!
  7. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    LOL, thanks! It's the Ultracast 1/32 "WWII German Fighter Pilot" cat. no. 54004. Mike Good's sculpting is outstanding, which makes painting much easier.
  8. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    I generally wing it with the exact mix. IIRC, I used Burnt Sienna with a touch of Burnt Umber. Other shades I use are Yellow Ochre, Raw Umber and Naples Yellow (for blonde wood). I also like to use oils for leather. The technique is exactly the same except instead of streaking, I stipple with a soft, dry brush.
  9. IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR

    Thanks all for the kind words! The wood finish is simply artists oil paint on top of Tamiya XF15 Flesh, a technique that I honed on WWI aircraft models. I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case). I brush a thin coat of the oil paint on the piece and then create the grain by dragging it with a clean rake brush. The softer the brush, the finer the grain, so you can use this technique in any scale. It's workable for several hours (takes a couple of days to dry), so you can mess about with it until you have it just so.
  10. Hi folks, Just finished the IBG Bedford QLR with PART and Eduard photoetch and Panzer Art wheels. Tamiya acrylics with oils and pigments weathering. Constructive criticism welcome!
  11. The great thing about the Merlin powered mustangs is that you can pose the gear doors and flaps pretty much any way you want. Up, down or in between, you can find photos of any combination, so nothing is "wrong" Allison engined Mustangs, OTOH, seem to always have had the flaps and gear doors retracted while parked.
  12. Thanks, Basuroy. I suspect that the master for the resin seat was computer modelled and 3D printed.
  13. Outstanding. Always a treat to see good old fashioned scratchbuilding work.
  14. The seat is from BarracudaCast (http://barracudacals.com/proddetail.php?prod=BR48260) The kit provides a decent photoetch seat, but the BarracudaCast seat is in another league altogether.
  15. Just finished up this little gem of a kit, the new CSM Dolphin. Easily on par with the best of Eduard, Roden, etc. A few minor tweaks to make it my own, most notably the painted markings for No.1 Canadian Air Force Squadron, Ca. early 1919. Full build review to appear in an upcoming issue of Military Illustrated Modeller magazine.
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