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tbell

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About tbell

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  • Location
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada
  1. The Bronco folks have got to be kicking themselves right about now. Seems like there's really no comparison. And considering Bronco's MSRP of ~$60USD, well...
  2. Nice! I like the fact that the sliding hood is sitting down properly on the fuselage spine. Too many models miss that subtlety.
  3. If one is primarily concerned with the nose, Quickboost (which is Aires) sells the engine cover separately (QB 48 236), and BarracudaCast sells corrected rocker covers (BR48024). The entire Aires Seafire FR.46/FR47 resin engine, cockpit and wingfold set (cat no. 4338) can still be found online, but it's pretty spendy.
  4. HI Peter, This may seem like a stupid question (although my dad always told me there's no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid people), but how do you trim the aluminum? Snips/scissors? Knife and a guide? Do you sand the edges? Cheers, Tony
  5. Outstanding! My favourite memory of this kit was adding a blob of Play-Doh to the nose of the bomb and pretending my cat was the Akagi. Monogram really did get those rivets right, didn't they?
  6. Sweet. I have the CA TT.18 sitting on the Shelf of Doom. Yours make me want to dust it off and get going on it again.
  7. From my experience with the Mk.V kit, the piece for the external armour windscreen fits substantially better than the one for the internal armour. Of course I had to go with the latter...
  8. You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. I'd have probably scrapped it trying to mate the Alley Cat tail. If you want to avoid the baby poop vs. blanket issue in the future, I suggest adding a generous dollop of dish soap to your acrylic wash. Not only does it make cleanup much easier, it also helps it flow.
  9. Very nicely done. Definitely one of Trumpeter's better kits.
  10. Outstanding. I really like the look of the dark, waxed OD. You obviously did your homework!
  11. Thanks all for the kind words! This is definitely one of the more enjoyable builds I've done recently. Hi Paul, I was very impressed with the kit. Great detail, excellent fit and engineering and dirt cheap to boot. I would have preferred standard grey styrene, but I can understand why Revell chose white if it's to be painted yellow overall. Cheers, Tony
  12. Lovely model and an excellent tutorial, thanks for both! Did you use the salt method to achieve the mottled fading of the upper colours? Very effective.
  13. Well, not 100% finished as I have a few fiddly details and touch ups still to get to (e.g. the tail wheel broke off), but for all intents and purposes it's complete. I've gotta say, this is one of the best value-for-dollar kits I've ever made. The detail is excellent and the fit and engineering is outstanding, all for less than $20. My only criticism would be the decals which, while beautifully printed, were quite thick and didn't respond to setting solutions. Given that the only decals I used were the wing walks, this wasn't a big issue. I did add a few scratch built details, including the plumbing from the upper wing fuel tank, the glass fuel gauge tube, engine wiring, and the doodads aft of the engine on the port side. Rigging is ceramic "Wonder Wire", which doesn't add any strength to the structure, but that's OK since the fit and engineering of the kit is plenty strong enough on its own. The orange-yellow is Gunze H24 with some Tamiya yellow mixed in, while the grey is a mix of Tamiya Neutral Grey and white. All of the markings including the insignia and tail stripes were masked and painted using stencils cut with my Silhouette Portrait cutter. As always, any questions or constructive criticisms are greatly appreciated Cheers, Tony
  14. My technique for the exhausts is actually very simple and easy. After tidying up the part, drilling it out, etc., I start off by spraying it Tamiya flat black, thinned with pure rubbing alcohol, which gives it a dead flat, almost chalky finish. Using a small worn out brush, I then dust on various shades of brown, red-brown and orange powdered chalk pastels, working from dark to light. I try to avoid any kind of uniformity, instead going for a blotchy, patchy appearance. I finish off with some MiG Pigment Black Smoke for the soot at the openings and sometimes I'll rub just a wee touch of powdered graphite on the edges of the openings to suggest the underlying steel. I don't bother to seal the pastels as it diminishes the intensity of the colours considerably. Cheers, Tony
  15. OK, I'm calling this one done. Back in February I posted pics of my Tamiya Spitfire Mk.Vb (link), and now I've finished off it's Airfix sibling. Whereas the Tamiya kit was basically OOB with a few minor shape corrections, this one has a few additions to it (but no shape corrections): - Master brass cannon barrels - Wing trailing edges thinned and surface detail added to ailerons - Sutton harness from Tamiya tape - Added missing fasteners on the engine cowls - Added wing root fillet fastener detail - Prop, spinner and main wheels from the old Hasegawa Mk.Vb - Tail wheel from the Hasegawa Mk.IXc - Kit exhausts drilled out and detailed with weld seams - Main markings/insignia painted with home-made masks - Barracudacals airframe stencils - Added the sliding hood knockout panel cut from an old "Fast Frames" sheet Questions and constructive criticism are always welcome! The markings I chose are for a 402 Sqdn (RCAF) aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant Henry Percy Duval of Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Quebec. F/Lt. Percy was shot down near Dunkirk in late May 1940 during the Battle of France and managed to return to fight in the Battle of Britain. Later, on 27 April 1942, he was flying AA834 on a "Rodeo" to Lille and collided with another Spitfire over Le Touquet and was KIA. F/Lt. Percy was not famous, nor was he an ace, but to me he is representative of the thousands of airmen who gave their lives. Cheers, Tony