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    • Mike

      DDoS and Brute Force Attacks   09/18/2016

      From the day following upgrade to the new forum software, 15th Sept until the 19th, we were under a concerted attack by a person or persons using a number of 'bots and other people's Proxy networks to carry out what is called a Distributed Denial of Service attack, which is a method by which these 'bots submit thousands of requests to the website per second to overload the server and bring the site to its knees.  While this was going on, they were also making Brute Force attacks on our remote communications port to try and breach the server so they could do anything from format the hard drives to change ownership of the site, and bombarding the mailserver with similar bogus requests, some of which left some rather telling details behind.  This was followed up a couple of days later with a further attack that left more data to sift through, which we have passed on to our IT forensics people.On the advice of our Lawyer and fellow member JohnT, we yesterday informed the National Crime Agency and requested their assistance with the matter, and in an ongoing dialogue with them to find the culprits, so we are allowing them access to the server and its logs.    We don't believe that this is a random attack on balance, but for 5 days and a further evening we had to put up with some disturbance and interruption to the usually fast response of the website as we are seeing now that the attack has ended.  We will prevail, and don't worry about it.  We were the target, and these people will not win.  Karma will catch up with them   Mike, Greg, Dave & Julien.

tbell

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About tbell

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  1. Outstanding! My favourite memory of this kit was adding a blob of Play-Doh to the nose of the bomb and pretending my cat was the Akagi. Monogram really did get those rivets right, didn't they?
  2. Sweet. I have the CA TT.18 sitting on the Shelf of Doom. Yours make me want to dust it off and get going on it again.
  3. From my experience with the Mk.V kit, the piece for the external armour windscreen fits substantially better than the one for the internal armour. Of course I had to go with the latter...
  4. You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. I'd have probably scrapped it trying to mate the Alley Cat tail. If you want to avoid the baby poop vs. blanket issue in the future, I suggest adding a generous dollop of dish soap to your acrylic wash. Not only does it make cleanup much easier, it also helps it flow.
  5. Very nicely done. Definitely one of Trumpeter's better kits.
  6. Outstanding. I really like the look of the dark, waxed OD. You obviously did your homework!
  7. Thanks all for the kind words! This is definitely one of the more enjoyable builds I've done recently. Hi Paul, I was very impressed with the kit. Great detail, excellent fit and engineering and dirt cheap to boot. I would have preferred standard grey styrene, but I can understand why Revell chose white if it's to be painted yellow overall. Cheers, Tony
  8. Lovely model and an excellent tutorial, thanks for both! Did you use the salt method to achieve the mottled fading of the upper colours? Very effective.
  9. Well, not 100% finished as I have a few fiddly details and touch ups still to get to (e.g. the tail wheel broke off), but for all intents and purposes it's complete. I've gotta say, this is one of the best value-for-dollar kits I've ever made. The detail is excellent and the fit and engineering is outstanding, all for less than $20. My only criticism would be the decals which, while beautifully printed, were quite thick and didn't respond to setting solutions. Given that the only decals I used were the wing walks, this wasn't a big issue. I did add a few scratch built details, including the plumbing from the upper wing fuel tank, the glass fuel gauge tube, engine wiring, and the doodads aft of the engine on the port side. Rigging is ceramic "Wonder Wire", which doesn't add any strength to the structure, but that's OK since the fit and engineering of the kit is plenty strong enough on its own. The orange-yellow is Gunze H24 with some Tamiya yellow mixed in, while the grey is a mix of Tamiya Neutral Grey and white. All of the markings including the insignia and tail stripes were masked and painted using stencils cut with my Silhouette Portrait cutter. As always, any questions or constructive criticisms are greatly appreciated Cheers, Tony
  10. My technique for the exhausts is actually very simple and easy. After tidying up the part, drilling it out, etc., I start off by spraying it Tamiya flat black, thinned with pure rubbing alcohol, which gives it a dead flat, almost chalky finish. Using a small worn out brush, I then dust on various shades of brown, red-brown and orange powdered chalk pastels, working from dark to light. I try to avoid any kind of uniformity, instead going for a blotchy, patchy appearance. I finish off with some MiG Pigment Black Smoke for the soot at the openings and sometimes I'll rub just a wee touch of powdered graphite on the edges of the openings to suggest the underlying steel. I don't bother to seal the pastels as it diminishes the intensity of the colours considerably. Cheers, Tony
  11. OK, I'm calling this one done. Back in February I posted pics of my Tamiya Spitfire Mk.Vb (link), and now I've finished off it's Airfix sibling. Whereas the Tamiya kit was basically OOB with a few minor shape corrections, this one has a few additions to it (but no shape corrections): - Master brass cannon barrels - Wing trailing edges thinned and surface detail added to ailerons - Sutton harness from Tamiya tape - Added missing fasteners on the engine cowls - Added wing root fillet fastener detail - Prop, spinner and main wheels from the old Hasegawa Mk.Vb - Tail wheel from the Hasegawa Mk.IXc - Kit exhausts drilled out and detailed with weld seams - Main markings/insignia painted with home-made masks - Barracudacals airframe stencils - Added the sliding hood knockout panel cut from an old "Fast Frames" sheet Questions and constructive criticism are always welcome! The markings I chose are for a 402 Sqdn (RCAF) aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant Henry Percy Duval of Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Quebec. F/Lt. Percy was shot down near Dunkirk in late May 1940 during the Battle of France and managed to return to fight in the Battle of Britain. Later, on 27 April 1942, he was flying AA834 on a "Rodeo" to Lille and collided with another Spitfire over Le Touquet and was KIA. F/Lt. Percy was not famous, nor was he an ace, but to me he is representative of the thousands of airmen who gave their lives. Cheers, Tony
  12. Hi Sean, Thanks for the feedback. As I acknowledged in my post, the markings are indeed consistent with the modern restoration of warbird G-MKVB BM597, but that I weathered it as if it were in service. I wanted to use the Airfix markings but felt that zero weathering, as would befit a restored warbird, would have made for a somewhat boring model. The anachronisms go beyond just the wing walk markings. BM597 did actually serve with 317 Sqdn from Sept '42 to Feb '43 and during this time she would have worn grey and green camouflage and sported the later C and C1 type roundels on the lower wings and fuselage. To make it historically accurate would have meant binning all of the Airfix decals save for the serial number! Cheers, Tony
  13. Again, thanks for all the kind words! Hi Doug, The canopy is simply as it came out of the box. I've moved away from Futuring my canopies lately, as I find it limits my options when it comes to cleaning them up with alcohol or Tamiya lacquer thinner. If needed, I'll polish a canopy with Tamiya Rubbing Compound, but it wasn't necessary in this case. Thanks, Rene. My method for painting exhausts is really quite simple. I start by airbrushing them with Tamiya flat black, thinned with alcohol for maximum flatness. Then I simply dust them with various shades of brown and rust pigments, finishing off with a bit of black pigment and a very light rub of graphite on a few of the edges. Hi doozer, I cut my own masks using my Silhouette Portrait cutter and artwork I developed myself based on the Airfix decals. The fuselage roundels were indeed a bit fiddly. The steps I took were (before painting the camouflage): 1. Spray the area white. 2. Using a blob of Blu Tak, mask off a circle just slightly larger than the white of the roundel, but smaller than the inner diameter of the yellow. 3. Spray the yellow area, covering a bit more than necessary 4. Remove the Blu Tak. 5. Weed out the red and blue portions of the roundel mask. 6. Using a clear piece of Frisket laid over the yellow and white masks to keep them centred, lift them from the backing paper and carefully place them on the model. 7. Spray the red centre. 8. Mask the red centre with a slightly oversize square of Tamiya tape 9. Spray the blue 10. Mask the blue with a slightly oversize (but smaller than the outer diameter of the yellow mask) circle of Tamiya tape 11. Paint the rest of the camouflage. It may seem complicated, but it really wasn't. Hi Erik, As I mention in my reply to doozer, I cut my own masks using a Silhouette Portrait cutter. It wasn't exactly cheap, but it has proved to be a very useful modelling tool. I made a particular effort to get the paint as smooth as possible. I started by priming with Mr. Surfacer 1000, which I rubbed smooth with 3600 grit Micromesh cloths. Then I airbrushed the camouflage and markings with paint thinned about 66% (i.e. 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint). My gloss coat was Tamiya X22 clear, over which went the decals, followed by a another coat of X22 which I rubbed down again with 3600 grit Micromesh (wet). A couple more rounds of X22 and Micromeshing to completely blend the decal film in with the paint, and I finished off with a 50/50 mix of Vallejo matte and gloss polyurethane varnish. Cheers, Tony
  14. Thanks to all for the kind words. I'll be replying in more detail tonight when I get home from work (for some strange reason they've blocked BM)
  15. Well, 2014 was a bit of a bust for me modelling-wise, as I didn't actually finish a single thing. Fortunately 2015 is shaping up to be a bit more productive (actually infinitely more, if you're a stickler for math.) Hot off the bench is the good old Tamiya Spitfire Mk.Vb, pretty much OOB. The only things I did to it were: - Refined the wing trailing edge a bit to fix the well known shape issue - Refined the shape of the nose a bit to make the rocker covers a bit less "broad shouldered" looking - Drilled out the canon barrels - Drilled out the exhausts And that's it. I didn't even add a seat harness, although I still have the option since the canopy hood is only tacked on. Paints are Gunze Mr Colour for the Dark Earth, Tamiya 75% XF81 Dark Green plus 25% XF49 Khaki for the Dark Green and 75% Tamiya XF21 Sky plus about 25% X2 White for the Sky. The roundels and fuselage codes were masked and painted, while the rest of the decals came from the new Airfix Mk.Vb kit (which will be next off the bench, as it happens.) The markings themselves are neither fish nor fowl, BM597 having never actually been painted in this camouflage scheme during her service career, although she did wear the codes JHoC while flying with 317 Sqdn. As a restored warbird, BM597 does indeed wear these colours, but there are several airframe details that are post-war modifications that the Tamiya kit does not include (obviously). So I've painted the model up in the restored colours, but weathered it as if it were in service, just because I felt like it. Questions and constructive criticism are always welcome! Cheers, Tony